Did tune up and now won't start

[35buickakaBelle]

hi y'all need help stating my 1935 buick S40 back up. so i did a tune up changed the cap and rotor, point and condenser, spark plugs and wires. all from bobsautomobilia. also added a fuel filter before the pump and new line from pump to carb old one was bent bad. las year before i parked in the garage it was staring fine. not sure what could be causing this. i read couple forums and tried a few things and still nothing. plz any help be much appreciated. thanks so much

[Alfa]

Did it run before you did the tune-up? If it ran okay last year, then there must be something fundamental and recent at fault.

 

Have you checked for a spark? Turn the engine so that the points are together, then with ignition on, flick them apart with your thumb nail. You should see a small spark at the points, whilst holding the 'king lead' close to an earth should show you a nice spark. 

Have you checked that all the wires are correctly connected at the coil and coil to distributor?

Inside the distributor, is the wire from the coil insulated from the distributor body and the connection to the condenser likewise? A short will mean no sparks.

Is the rotor arm in the distributor? - sorry! But I do it all the time.

Can you refit the old condenser? Many replacements these days are poor quality.

Have you gapped the points correctly and reset the static ignition timing?

Are the new HT leads fitted in the correct order on the distributor cap? Establish which is No 1 and count them round in order, in the correct direction of rotation.

Do you have petrol up to the carburetor? remove air cleaner and check if the accelerator pump squirts petrol into the choke tube when you open the throttle sharply. (I think it should have an accelerator pump. If not simply slacken the feed pipe fitting and check for petrol).

 

Check these things and you should have a runner again. Let us know how you get on.

 

Adam..

 

[DonMicheletti]

SI wish I had a dime for every time I have forgotten to put the rotor back in the distributor after taking the cap off to check something.  Sure makes it a hard to start engine.

[35buickakaBelle]

2 hours ago, Alfa said:

Did it run before you did the tune-up? If it ran okay last year, then there must be something fundamental and recent at fault.

 

Have you checked for a spark? Turn the engine so that the points are together, then with ignition on, flick them apart with your thumb nail. You should see a small spark at the points, whilst holding the 'king lead' close to an earth should show you a nice spark. 

Have you checked that all the wires are correctly connected at the coil and coil to distributor?

Inside the distributor, is the wire from the coil insulated from the distributor body and the connection to the condenser likewise? A short will mean no sparks.

Is the rotor arm in the distributor? - sorry! But I do it all the time.

Can you refit the old condenser? Many replacements these days are poor quality.

Have you gapped the points correctly and reset the static ignition timing?

Are the new HT leads fitted in the correct order on the distributor cap? Establish which is No 1 and count them round in order, in the correct direction of rotation.

Do you have petrol up to the carburetor? remove air cleaner and check if the accelerator pump squirts petrol into the choke tube when you open the throttle sharply. (I think it should have an accelerator pump. If not simply slacken the feed pipe fitting and check for petrol).

 

Check these things and you should have a runner again. Let us know how you get on.

 

Adam..

 

 I have checked all those spark, fuel, rotor is in there lol  I got voltage on the coil.  Carburetor a makes of pop  I think the timing is off.  How would I correct the timing manually?  And is easy process to do?  Not an expert mechanic just average garage mechanic lol

[35buickakaBelle]

3 hours ago, Alfa said:

Did it run before you did the tune-up? If it ran okay last year, then there must be something fundamental and recent at fault.

 

Have you checked for a spark? Turn the engine so that the points are together, then with ignition on, flick them apart with your thumb nail. You should see a small spark at the points, whilst holding the 'king lead' close to an earth should show you a nice spark. 

Have you checked that all the wires are correctly connected at the coil and coil to distributor?

Inside the distributor, is the wire from the coil insulated from the distributor body and the connection to the condenser likewise? A short will mean no sparks.

Is the rotor arm in the distributor? - sorry! But I do it all the time.

Can you refit the old condenser? Many replacements these days are poor quality.

Have you gapped the points correctly and reset the static ignition timing?

Are the new HT leads fitted in the correct order on the distributor cap? Establish which is No 1 and count them round in order, in the correct direction of rotation.

Do you have petrol up to the carburetor? remove air cleaner and check if the accelerator pump squirts petrol into the choke tube when you open the throttle sharply. (I think it should have an accelerator pump. If not simply slacken the feed pipe fitting and check for petrol).

 

Check these things and you should have a runner again. Let us know how you get on.

 

Adam..

 

Is it possible I have the firing order wrong. I marked the old wires on the cap  And put it exactly the way the old was.  Now on the new Where it says number one under the cap cylinder one is not on there.  With the new cap Is the order wrong or different?

[F&J]

7 hours ago, 35buickakaBelle said:

Is it possible I have the firing order wrong. I marked the old wires on the cap  And put it exactly the way the old was.  Now on the new Where it says number one under the cap cylinder one is not on there.  With the new cap Is the order wrong or different?

I would pull number one plug out, then put your finger over that hole while someone bumps the starter a bit at a time,  then when you feel compression building...stop.  then see where your timing mark is at the pointer.   Get it lined up perfect by turning the engine by hand (key off for safety)

 

Now with Number 1 (compression stroke) at TDC at timing marks, now see where your rotor is pointing (to which plug wire)   Start with this test first. Then move wires  on cap if needed...or let us know what you found out.

[C Carl]

Wow ! Frank ! I've been a bit light on the forum due to ranch maintenance. Getting back into it. I see you are back , too !?????Looks like you are running smoothly on all 16 again ! Salud , Frank ! You are among the greatest of the great !

                      Another one of your many forum friends and admirers , Cadillac Carl 

[Alfa]

It sounds as though the timing is out and the HT leads might be on in the wrong order if you got a pop at the carburetor. F&J just gave you a run down of what to do. I think he is spot on.

 

You need to locate the timing marks on the engine, I am not familiar with where they are. Could be on the front pulley, but possibly on the flywheel. You also need to know the direction of rotation of the distributor shaft (rotor arm). Turning the engine with the distributor cap removed will tell you that.

 

Now remove No1 plug and do as F&J describes to get the engine TDC on No1 on the firing stroke. There should be a timing mark that aligns with a pointer when you are at TDC and possible further marks in advance of the TDC mark (clockwise rotation of the crank) indicating degrees before TDC.

 

See which segment in the distributor cap the rotor is pointing at when the engine is at TDC. That is no1. Then working in the direction of rotation of the distributor, carefully count the leads off in firing order to check that you have them fitted correctly. It can be confusing on an 8 cylinder! 

 

When this is done, set the engine to the recommended no of degrees of advance (probably 6-8 degrees?) on that set of timing marks. You can probably turn the engine by the fan blades, or starting handle, of even by rolling the car in top gear. You can flick the starter, but that always feels a bit uncontrolled to me. Once in position, you need a voltmeter or test lamp connected in parallel with the contact breaker points (I am assuming that they are gapped correctly) such that with the ignition on you can tell when the points are apart (points open = light on. Points closed  = light off). Now, you need to slacken the clamp bolt that secures the distributor body to the block. With ignition on, rotate the dist body until you see the light just come on, or voltmeter go to 6v. It is the moment of the points opening that is crucial. That is when the spark occurs. Set this. Tighten the clamp, refit rotor arm(!) and cap. Start engine.  Simple !!!!!

 

Adam..

[gregchrysler]

Charge the battery   spray starting fluid check timing get new parts points condenser check for frayed wires in dist  check wiring on points check coil    did u take out distributor ? they sell a light that u can put between spark plug and wire to spark plug  show the color  yellow poor white good

[MCHinson]

In addition to everything else that you have been told, I suggest you take out the new condenser and replace it with the old one. It seems from what I have read as well as a recent personal experience, new imported condensers are often no good from the start.

[Rusty_OToole]

Last guy with this complaint had NO compression in 2 cylinders because the valves were stuck. It had nothing to do with the tuneup. Have you checked your compression?

 

I recall the good advice went on for a couple of pages before he went by the way I have no compression lol.

[Spinneyhill]

You haven't said... why did you do a tune-up? I may be relevant.

 

Also, how long did the car sit before you did this? i.e. valves stuck?

[keithb7]

19 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Last guy with this complaint had NO compression in 2 cylinders because the valves were stuck. It had nothing to do with the tuneup. Have you checked your compression?

 

I recall the good advice went on for a couple of pages before he went by the way I have no compression lol.

 

That was me. Yes many parts were swapped and my head was scratched before I finally did a compression test. Then everything was revealed. Based on what happened to me, here is where I would start.

The engine needs three things to happen run. Spark, at the right time, compression, and fuel. That's pretty well it it when you break it down. I was chasing spark when my problem was compression. 

 

1. Pull plugs and crank over. Are you seeing sparks at plug tips?

2. Are you sure you are getting fuel? Pull air filter and look down throttle body of carb. Open throttle linkage a few times all the way. You should see raw fuel spray into the throttle body.

3. While plugs are out hook a compression gauge and measure all. Ensure battery is fully charged and throttle is wide open. Crank engine and take a compression reading for each cylinder.

 

Starting here, you will find where to go next. Good luck. Keith 

Edited July 13, 2017 by keithb7 (see edit history)