Aux Electric Fuel Pump

[40mopar]

I  have a 1949 Dodge B1B pickup with stock flathead six engine and mechanical fuel pump.

I'd like to install an auxiliary in-line electric pump as a backup/booster, mainly to avoid vapor lock.

 

What should I buy and are there any  tricks to the installation?

 

Thanks 

[Marty Roth]

If you go to Amazon.com , you'll find a couple of 6-Volt Airtex products:

E8011 runs at 5 - 8 psi

E8902 runs 2.5 to 4.5 psi

 

Both of the above units are supposed to be capable of 30 GPH - gallons per hour, and are reasonably priced. I also carry a spare pump and a spare filter.

 

An electric fuel pump acts best as a "Pusher", not as a "Puller". As such, it should be mounted as low, and as close to the fuel tank as reasonable, preferably on the rear portion of the vehicle's frame. Be sure to install a filter between the tank and the pump. It is a good idea to use an in-line 6-Volt relay, as well as running the power through an Oil Pressure Switch so that the power feed will be disengaged in the event of a serious wreck, not pumping fuel into a potential fire situation. Many hobbyists ignore these considerations. AACA allows supplemental electric fuel pumps on pre-WWII vehicles without point deduction, assuming they appear to be installed in a professional manner.

 

I have an electric fuel pump on each of my cars except for the 1915 Hudson which is gravity-fed. This is a way to prime the fuel system if a car has been laid-up for some time to minimize the time to "grind" the starter, but is a good way to push the fuel when vapor lock seems more prevalent, especially with today's fuels. I generally run the pump, cut it off, and then start the car. Later, if vapor lock acts up, I switch the pump on for a short time to clear the line and then shut it off. 

 

 

[nickelroadster]

I would make sure to get a vane type pump rather than one that is positive displacement.  A vane type pump will allow the mechanical pump to continue working even if the electric one is off. 

[Curti]

9 hours ago, nickelroadster said:

I would make sure to get a vane type pump rather than one that is positive displacement.  A vane type pump will allow the mechanical pump to continue working even if the electric one is off. 

I have Airtex 8902 pulse pumps on all of my Auburns and the mechanical pump will pull right thru them.  I agree with Marty.

 

Edited July 5, 2017 by Curti (see edit history)

[28 Chrysler]

Use the ignition switch for power source, plus a secondary  override on / off switch.

 

[Marty Roth]

16 hours ago, Curti said:

I have Airtex 8902 pulse pumps on all of my Auburns and the mechanical pump will pull right thru them.  I agree with Marty.

 

 

Curti, would you use the 2.5 to 4.5 , or the 5 to 8 psi if you were bypassing the mechanical fuel pump, say on a 320ci engine?

[kings32]

I have one on both my 32 chevy and my 30 Oakland . They work great for start up .  Helped when on a Glidden and my pump quit . Got me back to the hotel so I could change the pump .Kings32

[Curti]

On 7/5/2017 at 11:05 PM, Marty Roth said:

 

Curti, would you use the 2.5 to 4.5 , or the 5 to 8 psi if you were bypassing the mechanical fuel pump, say on a 320ci engine?

I use the 2.5-4.5 on the 288 CI Auburn engines 80-90 mph cars. 

[PFitz]

You should use whichever electric pump is closest to the fuel pressure of your mechanical pump. Otherwise the difference in pressure will change your carburetor's float level too much, which can cause a problem while your trying to deal with another problem.

 

Paul

Edited July 7, 2017 by PFitz (see edit history)