JalopyBob

Clear Coat Repair / Replacement

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My 90 Dark Claret has clear coat problems. Most is gone from the hood, a few spots on the top, and trunk lid starting to pop.

Do they respray the clear coat and does anyone know a place that does this well near the Chicago I area? The car is now just

over 65,000 miles, and I would like to keep it nice. It still has the original paint and pinstripes. Thanks!

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17 hours ago, JalopyBob said:

My 90 Dark Claret has clear coat problems. Most is gone from the hood, a few spots on the top, and trunk lid starting to pop.

Do they respray the clear coat and does anyone know a place that does this well near the Chicago I area? The car is now just

over 65,000 miles, and I would like to keep it nice. It still has the original paint and pinstripes. Thanks!

 

I don't have hands-on experience about the paint process so I'll pass along what I've been told by the owner of a body/paint shop. I was picking his brain when I asked him re-apply clear coat to three center brake light housings for convertibles (paint was clean on all three but the clear coat 'vanished'). BTW, a common problem for convertibles except for those painted red (go figure).

 

Basically, he said he had to strip the paint on each piece for the clear coat to stick (and stay). Even though the paint on the housings was impeccable and I did clay all three pieces. Nevertheless the contaminants that were hidden would have the clear coat come up within 3-4 years (he compared the process to how someone would re-apply floor tile without first breaking away the old tile and the old adhesive/float). For $150, he went ahead and striped down all three to metal, repaint (two silver and one white) and re-coat.

 

So to answer your question, I suppose to do it right so the clear coat adheres to the paint, you should strip the paint and repaint/re=clear coat. 

 

Edited by Bushwack (see edit history)

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On ‎7‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 8:51 PM, JalopyBob said:

My 90 Dark Claret has clear coat problems

 

This is really the easiest and least painful to both your car and your wallet method. A Buick Reatta's finish was unique for it's time, in the materials and processes that were used; galvanized sheet metal, plastics, electrostatic dipped primer, then water-based paint.

 

Due to this- I would not "strip it down" at all- but merely "scuff" the entire car, wipe down with solvent, tape & mask, reshoot the basecoat, clear coat, and then color sand & buff 2-3 weeks later. Removal of door trim and door handles is strongly advised- or the chances of checking, shrinkage, and peeling go up for those areas. A reputable Body Shop should have your car done in a week or less- with an appointment for color sand & buff when the coatings have hardened, usually 2-3 weeks, keeping the car out of hot sun, rain, extreme temperature swings, bird effluent, tree sap, etc. and no washing. 2 weeks after buff is good for wax, (Carnauba) but not the silicone-based stuff.

 

A "must view" for every Reatta Owner- (the beginning of) this video explains the painting processes, among other tips & tricks, and the special bodywork that is needed for the fenders (if ever damaged) is at the end. It's advisable that your choice Body Shop watch these painting parts, in order to know what they're working with- don't just assume because "they're a Body Shop- they must be experts".

 

 

To answer your "what to do" question- this is an excellent video, with a seasoned Pro- giving you very sound advice.

 

 

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