Adjusting valves solid lifters

[broker-len]

I have read on this forum to put the piston at TDC and adjust intake and exhaust     others say to rotate motor till one valve begins to open and set the other and when it closes the other-------------I have a 31 plymouth-------------------looking for suggestions and why------------------thank you in advance

[Guest]

 

For an 8-valve 4-cyl engine the principle is "rule of nine". If no. 1 is down, i.e valve open, adjust 8, if 2 is down adjust 7, and so on. In all circumstances there will be two valves open at any one time, turn the engine by fan belt, spanner on crankshaft nut, or jabs of the starter. For a 6-cyl engine, same principle but rule of 13.

Edited June 15, 2017 by Guest (see edit history)

[maok]

If your cylinder head is off the block then it is very simple to see which ones to adjust. Do all the valves that are fully seated, mark the ones you have done, turn the engine to seat the other valves and adjust until all valves are gapped.

 

If your cylinder head is on the block then turn the engine over to TDC on #1 (confirm by checking the dizzy rotor at #1) do both inlet and ex valves. Turn engine over to the next firing cylinder (1-5-3-6-2-4) by checking the dizzy rotor button, and repeat. This is not the fastest method but it is methodical, I find it easy to keep track of which I have done.

The principle is to have a small gap between the camshaft base circle and the valve for heat expansion. If there is not enough gap then at full engine temp the valves will stay open slightly. If there is too much gap then it will be noisy, and also you will lose some power.

 

[Doug Novak]

45 minutes ago, maok said:

If your cylinder head is off the block then it is very simple to see which ones to adjust. Do all the valves that are fully seated, mark the ones you have done, turn the engine to seat the other valves and adjust until all valves are gapped.

 

If your cylinder head is on the block then turn the engine over to TDC on #1 (confirm by checking the dizzy rotor at #1) do both inlet and ex valves. Turn engine over to the next firing cylinder (1-5-3-6-2-4) by checking the dizzy rotor button, and repeat. This is not the fastest method but it is methodical, I find it easy to keep track of which I have done.

The principle is to have a small gap between the camshaft base circle and the valve for heat expansion. If there is not enough gap then at full engine temp the valves will stay open slightly. If there is too much gap then it will be noisy, and also you will lose some power.

 

Yep, this was how I did my 350ci Chevy and is how was suggested in the Haynes Manual. Once you get #1 done it goes fast. I took the spark plugs out and used a probe (screw driver, ratchet extension, etc.) in the spark plug hole to determine Top Dead Center. With the plugs removed there's no compression so turning by hand 90 degrees to each cylinder is easy. 

[maok]

Just a note, being at EXACT TDC is not critical, think about where the valve is sitting on the camshaft base circle, the opposite side to the cam lobe, so there is a lot of lea way. Just make sure the dizzy rotor is pointing to the correct cylinder.

[Guest]

I was thinking 6 cyl not 4 so the rule of 9 applies. For an 8-valve 4-cyl engine the principle is "rule of nine". If no. 1 is down, i.e valve open, adjust 8, if 2 is down adjust 7, and so on. In all circumstances there will be two valves open at any one time, turn the engine by fan belt, spanner on crankshaft nut, or jabs of the starter. For a 6-cyl engine, same principle but rule of 13.

Edited June 15, 2017 by Guest (see edit history)

[hchris]

8 hours ago, broker-len said:

I have read on this forum to put the piston at TDC and adjust intake and exhaust     others say to rotate motor till one valve begins to open and set the other and when it closes the other-------------I have a 31 plymouth-------------------looking for suggestions and why------------------thank you in advance

 

Given that its side valve access is always a problem, particularly with a hot engine.

 

Take the side plate(s) off and bring #1 to TDC, both valves at #1 should be slack meaning they are seated closed, at this time #4 exhaust should be closing and #4 inlet opening i.e. rocking, now set the clearances on both #1 valves.

 

Next turn the crank 180 degrees so that #3 is at TDC, #2 valves should be rocking as before, set #3 clearances.

 

Repeat these steps with 180 degree crank turn for #4, #1 valves rocking and then #2, #3 valves rocking.

 

Ideally setting them hot is best, but doing it cold is easier and if you have the right "feel" on the gap then it will be good enough. You will hear that setting them hot is critical but we are talking elementary cam profiles here with an under stressed low rev engine, don't get too excited with it.

 

 

[broker-len]

thank you all       on this motor you have to remove the updraft carb to get to the valves        hard to do it hot  the head is on but a access plug over number 4 ------  the manual give a cold setting  -----     I tried to use the TDC then both valves on each hole but the motor has no power     every video on U tub     uses the other way       rotate motor till one valve on hole moves then adjust other on