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Posted

Thanks Tinindian, the cables and conduits are really rusty, I was able to free up the driver's side but the passenger side is really bad, thought it would be better to replace it. I thought I found 2 at a place called Collector Auto Supply but it turned out they only have 1.

They gave me the 375520 part number. So I bought the single.

I hope I'm getting the right part.

Posted

I wonder if the 1933 brakes are Bendix and not Steeldraulic?  I know that in 1932 Pontiac  brakes were changed to the standard shoe style Bendix brakes.  I would be surprised if they went back to Steeldraulic.  The brakes in 1932 had the star wheel mechanism that was used on drum brakes into the 1960's,

Posted

Hi Rob, this is very interesting and also maybe troubling. I may have ordered the wrong part.

How can I tell if I have Bendix or Steeldraulic brakes?

The star wheel you refer to is that the adjuster?

thanks, Rick.

Posted

Rick,

Here are some photos that I hope help.

The first photo shows the conduit that routes the cable from the chassis to the brake.  Remember this is on a '32.  I don't have information on a '33.  Does this look similar to yours?

The second photo shows the Steeldraulic brakes on my '30.  I also marked the adjusting wheel which Tinindian showed the adjusting pliers for.

The last photo are the Bendix brakes for the '32.  My guess is that they are similar to yours.  On the right of the photo you see the adjusting wheel which is story of star shaped.  It looks very similar to the adjustment on more modern cars.

 

I hope this helps.

 

IMG_1257.JPG

IMG_0211.JPG

DSCN1539.jpg

Posted

Gee, now I'm worried, mine don't look like either of these, I have 2 shoes but they are different sizes. And the actuator is like a diamond shaped nut that turns spreading the shoes. I will get a photo,

Posted (edited)

No.  This is okay here. The "Flat Head Forum" seems to be all/any Pontiac flat heads after the Oakland era, which of course would include yours.  Many of the posters on that forum know nothing about our two three cylinder head flat heads.  Your picture looks like General Motors Huck brakes that were used on Eagle Model Series C Chevrolet Passenger Cars and others.  Many of the pickup trucks with Huck brakes have been changed as many people found them ineffective under heavy loads.  One question, which can probably not ever be answered, is how these got on your Pontiac.  Were these installed at the factory because of some manufacturing problems in 1933, or did a previous owner install them???  The answer is unimportant really.  Hopefully the operation between the cable and the shoes for either type of brakes.  Otherwise you may need a Chevrolet cable.

Good luck. 

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
Posted

thanks Tin Indian, this isn't even a picture of my car, it's from the internet, a 33 Chevrolet restoration. Anyway, very curious how they ended up on my car given that they are less effective,

and I can attest to that. The new cable is on its way to me, I'll let you know when I get it. My car is a Canadian manufacturer if that makes any difference.

I have another issue that I wanted to discuss. The steering is very hard. It binds and is difficult to return after steering thruogh a corner. I made some adjustments to the steering box while the car was off the ground and got to a very good point. Very easy and smooth lock to lock, very little play. But when I put the car back on the floor the resistance was back. I read that other steering components may be at fault. Where would you suggest I start? How to diagnose?

 

Thanks, Rick.

Posted

There is only one way to correct the steering if you do not have an alignment machine and the knowledge to operate it.  All the steering connections need to be opened , cleaned and reassembled it the correct order (you need illustrations because who knows who messed it up before you).  You need to do an alignment which is easy enough to do with a carpenters square, a plumb bob and a large protractor.  The toe in and caster are easy to set.  To adjust the camber you need to bend the axle so that is probably beyond most home shops.  A truck shop that isn't willing to do the rest of the alignment might be willing to adjust the camber if it was needed.  All the shackles should be disassembled and cleaned and lubed properly.  The axles must be parallel, proper tire inflation, front springs need to be arched the same as well as the rears (car shouldn't sag to either side).  When you have all this done one pot hole and you can be out of alignment again. 

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