Riviera63

Quartz Clock Conversion And Refurbishment

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Hi,

 

I sent my 63 Riviera clock out to be converted to a quartz mechanism this last winter. I was very pleased with the results and the company that did the conversion and wanted to pass along their info in case anyone else is thinking about doing this. I have had the clock in about a month and it is working perfectly. They not only replace the inner mechanism with a quartz mechanism but, also refurbish the rest of the clock as well. They clean and polish the lens, repaint the hands, clean and polish the chrome bezel and they even cleaned and repainted the rear outer casing. It looked like new. They will also return your old inner mechanism to you if you ask them to. The company is:

 

Instrument Services, Inc. 

4075 Steele Drive

Machesney Park IL  61115

1-800-558-2674

website: www.ClocksAndGauges.com

 

 

The cost is $120.00 plus the cost of return shipping. I have no idea if this price is good,  bad or indifferent compared to others that do this. It was a very painless process. ( except for unplugging and replugging the clock and light in. I wish GM had splurged a little and used a couple of more inches of wire on the light and power leads. )  All I had to do is send my clock to them with my contact information. When the clock was ready they contacted me, got my payment information and sent my clock back to me. My turnaround time was only a couple of weeks. If anyone has any questions I would be happy to answer them.

 

Bill

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I purchased the Quartz Conversion Kit from them for my '63 Riviera clock.  It's not that hard to put in and it has worked great ever since (many years now).

 

I, too, painted the hands of the clock and polished the bezel while it was apart.  

 

I don't remember the cost of the kit.  They don't have a price on their website.

 

 

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Agree this vendor is top rated and has an excellent reputation. I bought the do-it-your-self kit but had problem with clock keeping correct time. They were very polite and helpful when I called for assistance and even agreed to fix it no charge if I sent it to them had we not been able to resolve issue the phone, which we did. A+

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                    You just grab a  hold of the chrome bezel and twist it counter clockwise to release it. Some people have claimed that

using the plastic cap off of an aerosol can shoved over the bezel can give you better gripping power to turn it. 

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Last year I sent my clock to Instrument Services to have it converted to quartz, after getting it back and installing. it ran for about 5 hours then quit, if I tapped on the dial face plate, it would start running again. this kept going on for a week. I called them and they told me to send back, after 2 weeks they sent it back and said they could not find anything wrong. To this day, it runs for about 5 hours then it quits. I have to either tap on the face plate or pull out the stem to get it to start again.  I'm extremely disappointed in their work and not being able to fix it. I would never send them anything ever again.

 

Bob Bonto

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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Winston, if I understand your reply correctly, does the clock comes out from the front of the dashboard? 

 

Hi Rodney,

 

I am not Winston but, yes, you are correct. After you rotate, you pull it straight toward you. Have fun disconnecting the light bulb and power connector. You will have even more fun reconnecting them. That is where GM could have splurged with a couple more inches of wire.

 

Bill

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On 10 June 2017 at 8:48 AM, Seafoam65 said:

                    You just grab a  hold of the chrome bezel and twist it counter clockwise to release it. Some people have claimed that

using the plastic cap off of an aerosol can shoved over the bezel can give you better gripping power to turn it. 

 

Hi Bill, thanks for that, Seafoams aka Winston reply to your topic gave the clue and now you have just confirmed it.

 

I had just taken the speedo and fuel/amp/temp bezels off to clean them as I could see the Allen head screw securing them. Great thing about these cars is you can take most things apart to clean and refurbish them without too many dramas.

 

Clock is now tomorrow's challenge, hopefully just a clean as per Eds post some time back to start it working again.

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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

Hi Bill, thanks for that, Seafoams aka Winston reply to your topic gave the clue and now you have just confirmed it.

 

I had just taken the speedo and fuel/amp/temp bezels off to clean them as I could see the Allen head screw securing them. Great thing about these cars is you can take most things apart to clean and refurbish them without too many dramas.

 

Clock is now tomorrow's challenge, hopefully just a clean as per Eds post some time back to start it working again.

 

Rodney,

 

If you have the other bezels off, leave them off until  you remove and then reattach the clock. I removed the bezels when I reinstalled the clock. I seemed to get better access and leverage when reattaching the light and power lead.

 

Bill

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Too late she cried!

 

All are now back on but they are easy peasy to remove and not that much of an issue to replace. ?

 

Interesting that the HOT/COLD lenses fell out of position first time because the inexperienced installer was a little rough in trying to get it back in first time (round one) ? As a result I used a tiny touch of Weldbond on ALL the lenses to keep them secure and flat against the bezel. Let that dry for a while to ensure they stayed put. ?

 

The installer then took a much more careful approach in installing them as he now has learnt how to do it properly. Good thing he is only on Work Experience and not getting paid for anything he does?

 

If the W.E. bloke (me) can't get the clock out carefully tomorrow with the other bezels in place, might try your approach with them both removed. Really looking forward to hearing that TICK, TICK, TICK, THUMP?

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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Too late she cried!

 

All are now back on but they are easy peasy to remove and not that much of an issue to replace. ?

 

Interesting that the HOT/COLD lenses fell out of position first time because the inexperienced installer was a little rough in trying to get it back in first time (round one) ? As a result I used a tiny touch of Weldbond on ALL the lenses to keep them secure and flat against the bezel. Let that dry for a while to ensure they stayed put. ?

 

The installer then took a much more careful approach in installing them as he now has learnt how to do it properly. Good thing he is only on Work Experience and not getting paid for anything he does?

 

If the W.E. bloke (me) can't get the clock out carefully tomorrow with the other bezels in place, might try your approach with them both removed. Really looking forward to hearing that TICK, TICK, TICK, THUMP?

 

Rodney,

 

My Hot/Cold lenses fell out as well. I did not notice until I went to fire it up the next day. It gave me quite a shock to see bare bulbs lighting up in front of me and seeing them missing. Fortunately, they dropped out inside the gauge. Getting out the clock with them in is easier than getting it reconnected.

 

Bill

 

 

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Last year I installed a quartz movement from Instrument Services, Inc. in my 1969 Chevrolet Caprice clock. The directions are detailed but easy to follow.

If you plan on doing this conversion yourself be sure to be VERY gentle when you remove the minute, hour and second sweep arms. They are very thin metal and are pressed onto the center posts. You can easily bend these, especially where the arm is mounted on the post. I know, I bent my your sweep arm. Luckily it did not break and I was able to use it when I put the unit back together. I recommend using a good pair of needle nose or narrow nose plyers.

These quartz movements are very accurate. "clocks4cars" (Instrument Services, Inc) sells these for $82 plus free shipping on Ebay, if you are the do-it-yourself type. You can go to the ISI website, https://www.clocksandgauges.com/, and find out which kit is right for your vehicle or you can ask the seller through Ebay.

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Bill, took yours, Bernies and Eds advice, used some WD40 on the clock edges, removed both gauge surrounds and used a gripper cloth to finally get it free. The bulb was burnt out, so will replace, checked and have power at the connector. And you are spot on, Buick Must have saved at lest $0.03 on each Riviera by keeping the clock wiring so short. Would have been nice if the gave another 2-3 inches more. Still, let's see how the repair goes.?

 

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While typing this, am just listing to the periodic thump from the clock while on bench test.

 

After looking at the different stories, decided to invest Aus$11.00 in a bottle of Shellite and after dismantling the Borg clock, soaked the mechanicals for a day. Periodically, I gently turned the wheel and got it to run for a few seconds.

 

While this was all happening, cleaned up the chrome bezel and removed some fine scratches on the lens with some car polish.

 

After a few times, it managed to wind down enough by itself to close the contacts and then consistently did this. Then used a needle file to clean up the points.

 

After letting it dry for a short time, used a La Belle model railroad oil with a needle point applicator on the axle points for all the gears.

 

Hooked it up to a 12 volt power source a few hours ago and it just keeps ticking away! 

 

So so forget the quartz conversion and try a clean and lube on the old one first. You never know what may happen! ?

 

From a very very happy Rodney from down under.

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Yes epriv, this is the post that inspired me to give it a go. Jo wants me to give up my day job and go into full time clock and watch repairs. I think she is joshin!

 

Any way, finished clock with new hand formed gasket to seal the housing and two brass 8BA cheesehead screws that replace the original bolts. Much easier to service later on. 

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I got my '63 clock running again although it was horrible to remove the clock....

Question:

  • the clock loses ~5 minutes a day. I understand that it is supposed to be self adjusted when one change the time but 5 minutes a days seems to be a rather large amount to adjust. Any comments?

IMG_4040.jpg

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On 6/9/2017 at 6:24 PM, ronnie27 said:

How do you remove the clock?

 

On 6/9/2017 at 6:24 PM, ronnie27 said:

How do you remove the clock?

Turn the rim of the clock about 1/8 turn counterclockwise. You’ll feel the clock disengage the lock. Pull the clock straight out.

One wire comes off easily enough. The second wire you trace or cut ( I cut ) and put the cut wire back with butt connector and shrink when you put the clock back. 

‘If your hands are full of arthritis , like mine,

you might need a neighbor to turn the clock the 1/8 turn.

 

RRB

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6 hours ago, SwedeDownUnderR63 said:

Thanks for all the suggestions. I got my '63 clock running again although it was horrible to remove the clock....

Question:

  • the clock loses ~5 minutes a day. I understand that it is supposed to be self adjusted when one change the time but 5 minutes a days seems to be a rather large amount to adjust. Any comments?

IMG_4040.jpg

 

Take the clock to a proper clock shop for cleaning and lubrication.  They can also adjust to correct speed.  They have an instrument that they place it on that counts the seconds.

 

 

 

 

 

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52 minutes ago, gungeey said:

 

Is the quartz movement powers by car battery or it's own battery ?

car battery

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7 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

 

Take the clock to a proper clock shop for cleaning and lubrication.  They can also adjust to correct speed.  They have an instrument that they place it on that counts the seconds.

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Jim,

Thanks but I guess I just have to live with it until I feel the urge to remove the clock again. Setting the clock once at each trip isn't that hard compared to the hours I had to spend to get it out...

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4 hours ago, SwedeDownUnderR63 said:

Hi Jim,

Thanks but I guess I just have to live with it until I feel the urge to remove the clock again. Setting the clock once at each trip isn't that hard compared to the hours I had to spend to get it out...

 

Getting the clock out does not need to be such a chore to be avoided.

 

First of all, you can remove the 2 large bezels to the left and right of the clock (surrounding the speedometer and the idiot lights).  Remove small allen set screw on bottom.  This gives better access to the clock bezel.

 

A plastic spray can cap will slip over the clock bezel, to help you get a better grip on the clock.  Push in on the cap and turn the clock anti-clockwise about 1/8th of a turn.

 

If it really will not turn, you need to remove the dash pad.  Then you can coax the clock body to turn.  When you go to reinstall, put a light film of grease on the 2 spring clips inside the instrument panel, where the clock pins slide in and lock.

 

When you first install, turn the clock in and out multiple times to spread the grease out.

 

 

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