Riviera63

Quartz Clock Conversion And Refurbishment

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30 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

 

Getting the clock out does not need to be such a chore to be avoided.

 

First of all, you can remove the 2 large bezels to the left and right of the clock (surrounding the speedometer and the idiot lights).  Remove small allen set screw on bottom.  This gives better access to the clock bezel.

 

A plastic spray can cap will slip over the clock bezel, to help you get a better grip on the clock.  Push in on the cap and turn the clock anti-clockwise about 1/8th of a turn.

 

If it really will not turn, you need to remove the dash pad.  Then you can coax the clock body to turn.  When you go to reinstall, put a light film of grease on the 2 spring clips inside the instrument panel, where the clock pins slide in and lock.

 

When you first install, turn the clock in and out multiple times to spread the grease out.

 

 

Tried all except for the dash pad.. Still took a few hours to finally get it to move.

Thanks, but it will sit in its place now until I start with the internal setup for my AC conversion.

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On 12/3/2018 at 6:19 PM, Jim Cannon said:

 

Getting the clock out does not need to be such a chore to be avoided.

 

First of all, you can remove the 2 large bezels to the left and right of the clock (surrounding the speedometer and the idiot lights).  Remove small allen set screw on bottom.  This gives better access to the clock bezel.

 

A plastic spray can cap will slip over the clock bezel, to help you get a better grip on the clock.  Push in on the cap and turn the clock anti-clockwise about 1/8th of a turn.

 

If it really will not turn, you need to remove the dash pad.  Then you can coax the clock body to turn.  When you go to reinstall, put a light film of grease on the 2 spring clips inside the instrument panel, where the clock pins slide in and lock.

 

When you first install, turn the clock in and out multiple times to spread the grease out.

 

 

Thank you Jim, the paint cap worked AWESOME today

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What do the points in the clock do? Have mine apart, runs a couple minutes then stops. Slight thump and goes again.

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The clock is actually mechanical.  When the points close, 12V is sent to the little electrc motor. That motor winds the main spring and at the same time opens the points.  The clock runs off the main spring until that spring unwinds.  When the mainspring is almost completely unwound, the points close and the process starts over.  The drain on the battery is momentary, not constant. Just enough of a jolt to rewind the mainspring.  

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18 minutes ago, RivNut said:

The clock is actually mechanical.  When the points close, 12V is sent to the little electrc motor. That motor winds the main spring and at the same time opens the points.  The clock runs off the main spring until that spring unwinds.  When the mainspring is almost completely unwound, the points close and the process starts over.  The drain on the battery is momentary, not constant. Just enough of a jolt to rewind the mainspring.  

Thanks again Ed, you are a handy guy to have around lol. I now have it running in my house, and I hear the points and wind  kick off and on. It is running with the case off and face down. All together it keeps stopping. I have cleaned and lubed, and filed the points. Think I will just let it run this way for a while before putting it back together. 

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On 6/9/2017 at 3:18 PM, Seafoam65 said:

                    You just grab a  hold of the chrome bezel and twist it counter clockwise to release it. Some people have claimed that

using the plastic cap off of an aerosol can shoved over the bezel can give you better gripping power to turn it. 

I used that method today. Works very well.

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10 hours ago, crowvet said:

 I now have it running in my house, and I hear the points and wind  kick off and on. It is running with the case off and face down. All together it keeps stopping. I have cleaned and lubed, and filed the points. Think I will just let it run this way for a while before putting it back together. 

 

Hi Daryle,  I cleaned mine in Shellite ( left soak for several days) While in the Shellite I would open the contacts manually and spin the flywheel to help clean the mechanism. Eventually it got to run the whole of the period till it was rewound again. Then I let it dry and lubed the mechanism with LaBelle model railway oil and filed the contacts clean and flat.

 

Like you, put it on 12V on a power source and left it on test for about a week until satisfied it would keep good time and keep running, then I put it back in the car.  Now it keeps thunking away every time I re-connect the battery and use the car. I never bother to reset it, but it is just nice seeing the “seconds tick the time out” on the sweep hand.

 

Hope you get yours working ok too! 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

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5 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

Hi Daryle,  I cleaned mine in Shellite ( left soak for several days) While in the Shellite I would open the contacts manually and spin the flywheel to help clean the mechanism. Eventually it got to run the whole of the period till it was rewound again. Then I let it dry and lubed the mechanism with LaBelle model railway oil and filed the contacts clean and flat.

 

Like you, put it on 12V on a power source and left it on test for about a week until satisfied it would keep good time and keep running, then I put it back in the car.  Now it keeps thunking away every time I re-connect the battery and use the car. I never bother to reset it, but it is just nice seeing the “seconds tick the time out” on the sweep hand.

 

Hope you get yours working ok too! 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

Did you soak the electric rewind solenoid as well ?  Mine will run a few hours if face down. If I tip it up to a normal position it will stop. The solinoid kicks about every 3 or 4 minutes, is that normal?

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I put a used clock in mine, cleaned it, redid the bezel, etc. Runs great. Matter of fact, TOO great; it's about 3 hours FAST. Don't know how to slow it down, may have to try to find somewhere to send it to get it regulated.

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I put a used clock in mine, cleaned it, redid the bezel, etc. Runs great. Matter of fact, TOO great; it's about 3 hours FAST. Don't know how to slow it down, may have to try to find somewhere to send it to get it regulated.

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I put a used clock in mine, cleaned it, redid the bezel, etc. Runs great. Matter of fact, TOO great; it's about 3 hours FAST. Don't know how to slow it down, may have to try to find somewhere to send it to get it regulated.

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I put a used clock in mine, cleaned it, redid the bezel, etc. Runs great. Matter of fact, TOO great; it's about 3 hours FAST. Don't know how to slow it down, may have to try to find somewhere to send it to get it regulated.

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35 minutes ago, jframe said:

I put a used clock in mine, cleaned it, redid the bezel, etc. Runs great. Matter of fact, TOO great; it's about 3 hours FAST. Don't know how to slow it down, may have to try to find somewhere to send it to get it regulated.

The clocks are "self regulating" via the operator`s input. If the clock is running too fast and you readjust the hands for the correct time the clock will self regulate to a slower speed. It may take quite a few resets to overcome a 3 hr discrepency in accuracy. Or, you can send it to me and I can do it internally. My workbench is setup for working on the clocks at this time,

Tom

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12 hours ago, crowvet said:

Did you soak the electric rewind solenoid as well ?  Mine will run a few hours if face down. If I tip it up to a normal position it will stop. The solinoid kicks about every 3 or 4 minutes, is that normal?

Yes, dipped the whole of the mechanism, tried to keep the face out of the liquid as best I could. Certainly had no adverse affect on anything. It air dries quickly too! And the solenoid kicks in every three or four minutes is normal. It has a power supply (12V) so doesn’t need to run any longer than that.

 

If you want a good article look up “putting the tick tock back in your car clock” , great read and very clear.

cheers

Rodney

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17 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Yes, dipped the whole of the mechanism, tried to keep the face out of the liquid as best I could. Certainly had no adverse affect on anything. It air dries quickly too! And the solenoid kicks in every three or four minutes is normal. It has a power supply (12V) so doesn’t need to run any longer than that.

 

If you want a good article look up “putting the tick tock back in your car clock” , great read and very clear.

cheers

Rodney

Thank you Rodney, THAT is a very good article. Nice to know what normal operation is

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20 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Yes, dipped the whole of the mechanism, tried to keep the face out of the liquid as best I could. Certainly had no adverse affect on anything. It air dries quickly too! And the solenoid kicks in every three or four minutes is normal. It has a power supply (12V) so doesn’t need to run any longer than that.

 

If you want a good article look up “putting the tick tock back in your car clock” , great read and very clear.

cheers

Rodney

Ive restored 6 of these Borg clocks to continuous running condition in the last few days and the time between solenoid activation has been between 1 minute on the low side and 1 minute 30 seconds on the high side with  most falling in the 120 to 130 seconds range. I`m sure the actual degree to which the solenoid moves the mainspring is dependent on the freedom of movement of the mechanism and the condition of the contact points and strength of the solenoid but...if one actuates the sweep of the mainspring manually to the stop of its travel I`m sure the running time for this full rewind is MUCH shorter than 3 to 4 minutes....more like 2 minutes and 20 or 30 seconds. It is highly unlikely the solenoid will rewind the mainspring to the full extent of its travel. Just my 2 cents..

  Tom

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So I believe I have found the problem with my clock, and wondering if there is anyway to fix it? It is in very nice condition, but what I have found is that it will stop after a while even though everything is clean and free. It always stops as the points close and the solenoid should kick , but it doesn't. If I just barely touch the points they kick and the clock starts again. What I have found is the point contact is missing from the negative leg of the points. with this missing it lets it unwind a little to far, and the points arc against the metal bracket.. Any ideas?

 

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8 hours ago, crowvet said:

So I believe I have found the problem with my clock, and wondering if there is anyway to fix it? It is in very nice condition, but what I have found is that it will stop after a while even though everything is clean and free. It always stops as the points close and the solenoid should kick , but it doesn't. If I just barely touch the points they kick and the clock starts again. What I have found is the point contact is missing from the negative leg of the points. with this missing it lets it unwind a little to far, and the points arc against the metal bracket.. Any ideas?

 

 

Is it possible to make up a metal contact and solder it in place?

Rodney 😀😀😀😀

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4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

Is it possible to make up a metal contact and solder it in place?

Rodney 😀😀😀😀

I was thinking of cutting one off of car points, then using a conductive epoxy to attach it???? Think it would work, the contact shouldn't get hot as infrequently as it connects

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Of course you can do that.

 

I converted my original clock to quartz many years ago and it has run flawlessly for years with no maintenance, keeping perfect time.  The electro-mechanical style clocks are just a pain.

 

YMMV.

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Got the clock working😃 I took a contact off a set of car points and glued it on. The conductive adhesive to glue the point contact on does not work. Next I tried to solder the contact on, not sure what the contact is made of, but could not get it to solder. Next I found a point set with the contact attached to a copper arm. I cut the contact off leaving the copper attached to it. I ground the copper backing to match the shape of the contact and smoothed it all out with sandpaper. After some time I was able to solder this to the clock arm.I filed both contacts clean. The clock has been running for 5 hrs now😎

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I have heard that the points in a mechanical clock emit a small amount of ozone each time they function. That is why so many clock lenses are discolored.

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8 hours ago, crowvet said:

Got the clock working😃 I took a contact off a set of car points and glued it on. The conductive adhesive to glue the point contact on does not work. Next I tried to solder the contact on, not sure what the contact is made of, but could not get it to solder. Next I found a point set with the contact attached to a copper arm. I cut the contact off leaving the copper attached to it. I ground the copper backing to match the shape of the contact and smoothed it all out with sandpaper. After some time I was able to solder this to the clock arm.I filed both contacts clean. The clock has been running for 5 hrs now😎

Hi Daryle,

  Can you post a pic? If you used ignition points they are much larger than the original clock points.  I was concerned the change in size/mass would negatively affect the cycling period. Now that you have changed the points, how much time elapses between point cycles? Just curious...

  Tom

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3 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

Hi Daryle,

  Can you post a pic? If you used ignition points they are much larger than the original clock points.  I was concerned the change in size/mass would negatively affect the cycling period. Now that you have changed the points, how much time elapses between point cycles? Just curious...

  Tom

Hi Tom, the cycle time is about 1minute and 20 seconds. First picture is a before shot. Not sure why I can only load one picture to each post?

P1070428.JPG

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