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A little more information would be very helpful. From your minimal description, it appears the car may be auctioned off, or is it for sale outright? If for sale, asking price? If auctioned, who, what, where? Is there a title? Is there any documentation, receipts, etc.? Why is there a gasket in the back seat? Head gasket?

I'd be interested in the car, but give me a description and more sales information.

Edited by George Smolinski (see edit history)
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Looks like it spent its early life in Independence, Kansas. That's a small town in southeastern Kansas that in the early 20th century claimed to have more millionaires per capita than any other city in the U.S. I learned that from the retired postmaster of Independence, when I bought my very first antique Buick (a 1958 Limited) from him in 1977.

This '37 is a HPOF or Archival class car if I ever saw one!

Pete Phillips

Leonard, Texas

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Hey fellas, sorry for the minimal info. I did not know if i would get the boot for this being an auction or not. Some groups frown on that. There is absentee bidding available on our website or you can bid live.

kurtzauction.com

click on home auctions. 

I will get answers to the head gasket question 

first thing in am

the auction is in Maceo Ky. 

Mr. Roberts bought it from a man in Chicago that was having a hard financial time. It is my understanding that Mr. Roberts is 2nd owner 

you can contact me at 270-316-7425

IMG_7269.MOV

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my name is Amy Whistle, i am selling this car at live auction on June 13th in Maceo KY. Absentee bidding is available at the link provided above( thank you i couldnt get it to post) I will be glad to help with anything, This is an estate , so the man that has the answers regarding gasket has passed.  I have the title with me, this is the first i have sold of this type so you all know way more than i what you need to know.  Let me know how i can help and thank you all

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46 minutes ago, George Smolinski said:

Info from Trim Tag:

Model 47

Style No. 37-4489

Body No. 17438

Trim No. 308

Paint No. 501

Can anyone help with decoding these? I'm curious if some of them match the car as shown such as paint & trim.

 

It is a Model 47, a Special Four Door Sedan-Plain Back.

 

In the video when I pause it, I see the Style as 37-4409 and the Trim No as 300. The Fisher Style number for a Model 47 is 37-4409. Trim No. 300 is Tan Bedford Cord. Paint No. 501 is Chancellor Blue. The car appears to me to match the codes that I see in the video.

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 Trim 308  is Grey Bedford Cord

 Paint 501 is Chancellor Blue

 

Carl

 

 I must have been typing  while Matthew was posting. I haven't watched the video but Matthew has sharp eyes so I assume he is correct and that the Trim is 300 which would be Tan Bedford Cord like Matthew said.

Edited by 1937-44 (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, MCHinson said:

 

It is a Model 47, a Special Four Door Sedan-Plain Back.

 

In the video when I pause it, I see the Style as 37-4409 and the Trim No as 300. The Fisher Style number for a Model 47 is 37-4409. Trim No. 300 is Tan Bedford Cord. Paint No. 501 is Chancellor Blue. The car appears to me to match the codes that I see in the video.

The 0's looked like 8's to me. Thanks for the info.

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My playing around with '37 Cadillacs and LaSalles leads me to believe a low miles rust free totally original Bu' like this , with that interior , chrome and paint which should clean up very well , is a very good purchase for the lucky guy who has seen more than enough shabby ones. I'll bet the smell alone of this one adds significant value. I kinda hope Greg went for it !   - Carl

 

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Just now seeing this, guess I need to come up stairs more often. But you would have thunk someone here would have directed the gentleman to the Buick forum also, no?  But I agree with Carl, for an original and potential archival class car like this, not a bad price. Hope to see it here again.

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  • 7 months later...

Well, the flat head 4cyl and 6cyl  engines that I know- what I consider a normal rebuild would be, new pistons/rings main bearings, rod bearings, guides (if needed) hardened valves, seats and a new oil pump... As for the crankshaft, polish or go undersize if required, then reassemble with all new gaskets...

If you want to do your own rebuild on the cheap, you could use a ridge reamer, then hone the cylinders and just get new oversize rings which you will need to file down to the corresponding gap to use with your old pistons.  At least replace the rod bearings, then lap the valves, reassemble and hope for the best.. Done it a bunch of times on flathead motors..

I don't know how forgiving these Buick motors are, or what you can get away with, but the prices you're quoting would make it nearly impossible for anyone to get into these cars! It seems insane @$1000 per cylinder! Are engine parts for these cars really that expensive? I am in shock I must say... 

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I did mine substantially cheaper - but I did most of the re-build myself.  Farmed out the 030 over rebore, 010 under crank machining, and new guides and seats in the head, plus head assembly. 

 

I sourced my own parts, ran back and forth to the machine shop, etc.  Enjoyed the process.

 

Its been a few years, maybe $3000?  Ok, round it up to $4000, as I have probably forgotten about the overruns.

 

Sorry I can't be more accurate,

Jeff

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Hello Jeff,

 

Thank you for sharing your experience here, it gives me some idea... Since it has been a while, I would not be surprised if it is in the 6K range doing most of the work yourself and chasing your own parts... Still a tidy sum! Any experience with the transmissions?

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Still can't believe the figures for a rebuild! Parts and labor... You're better of buying a parts car with a good motor if you can find it.. Are we talking about taking your car to an "specialist" at that price? Or, I still have to chase another shop to drop the engine in afterwards/tidy things up?  Who works on these cars (Aside from us in our garage) at a reasonable rate? I understood you could retrofit modern bearing inserts (main/rod) to these engines... Am I mistaken?

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Sure can - I put 1950 rods in mine.  Turned the crank journals down by 010 at a machine shop, and bought 010 under bearing inserts.

 

Be careful to cross-check compatibility using Hollander's interchange manual.  I think, post-war up to about '52 will work, but don't take my word for it.  I also used 1950 style pistons, .030 over, from Egge.   (along with the appropriate rings).  You always have to check the 0.010 end gap clearance, and file to fit.

 

I do have some left-over babbitted rods - if you are interested.  The old technique was to remove shims to get the appropriate clearance as the Babbitt wore down.  You can pretty much see by inspection how much is left, and if they are useable.  Of course, even if it looks good, it is still old.

 

Jeff

 

 

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$8000 for 8 cylinders is about typical these days I think for anything unusual. Parts are really expensive. Crank and cam are probably too long for the local machine shop's machinery, shipping of heavy parts, etc, etc. Pistons will probably be available off the shelf for this at least, but you still might be better off with custom ones. Start pricing the parts online and add it all up, it gets expensive in a hurry. You'll see.

 

Additionally you will likely need belts, hoses, fuel pump diaphragm, water pump rebuild or kit, generator brushes and bearings, starter brushes and bushings, motor mounts, trans mounts, probably a clutch disc, maybe a whole clutch, flywheel resurfacing, radiator boil out, carb kit, plug wires, cap-rotor-points......  This is on top of the rebuild cost. It also assumes you are doing it all yourself. Add labor if not.

 

 

 

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