Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Greetings to all,

Call it a personality disorder but for me one project always leads into another "as long as I'm in here".... While flushing and changing all the hoses I noted a really good oil leak from the front crank area. This oil leak blows back onto the inner axle boot and is slung back to the fire wall in such a way that it I actually thought I had a cracked axle boot. I've twice accomplished an intensified inspection of the boot, finding no issues. So that brings me to replacing the front crank seal and ..... "as long as I'm here", the timing belt. A couple of questions, as long as I'm there, the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and what else should be replace while I'm in the area? The maintenance manual shows a special tool for removing the crank seal. Can this seal be removed  in place otherwise? Any recommendations for tensioning the timing belt without a special tool other than snug but not too snug?

Specs= 1989   2.2l  8v  auto

Any procedural tips are alays welcome.

Thanks,

Too Fuzzy

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Too Fuzzy said:

Greetings to all,

Call it a personality disorder but for me one project always leads into another "as long as I'm in here".... While flushing and changing all the hoses I noted a really good oil leak from the front crank area. This oil leak blows back onto the inner axle boot and is slung back to the fire wall in such a way that it I actually thought I had a cracked axle boot. I've twice accomplished an intensified inspection of the boot, finding no issues. So that brings me to replacing the front crank seal and ..... "as long as I'm here", the timing belt. A couple of questions, as long as I'm there, the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and what else should be replace while I'm in the area? The maintenance manual shows a special tool for removing the crank seal. Can this seal be removed  in place otherwise? Any recommendations for tensioning the timing belt without a special tool other than snug but not too snug?

Specs= 1989   2.2l  8v  auto

Any procedural tips are alays welcome.

Thanks,

Too Fuzzy

 

First of all, there are 2 types of 8 valve engines possible in the TC. The timing belt, crankshaft front seal and water pump are all different, 1 engine from the other.

Do you have the early engine with [ cogs or the 'common block' with ( cogs?  When ordering parts, you must know which.

As far as removing the seal, you can just pry it out with a straight blade screwdriver. Installing it, use a deep well socket that fits the outside circumference of the seal and gently tap it in with a hammer.

However, removing the timing belt crank sprocket is another story. You need a special puller which also serves as the installing tool for the sprocket. 

As for the tensioner, I rarely replace it when doing a timing belt on a 2.2 or 2.5, adjusting the tension on the belt without the factory weighted tool, I would say that if you clamped a good sized vice-grip plier on the portion of the pulley that the tool would go on, turning it counter-clockwise against the belt until the tool is at the 9 o'clock position. The weight of the vice-grip would almost be sufficient. A gentle touch in addition should be sufficient. I have done so many, I know for a fact that most of the time people over tighten the belt tensioner to the point that you hear a harmonic sound from the belt when the engine is assembled and run up in RPM.

I hope this gives you an idea of what is involved.

Link to post
Share on other sites

A word of caution, only drive the front seal in until the face of the seal is flush with the retainer. If you drive it in too far you'll be doing the job again and it might mess up the retainer (necessitating its replacement). I've seen it happen...the only reason I brought it up.

 

BTW, easy way to tell if you have a "common block" vs. an earlier "non-common block" engine...look at the rear oil pan rail. If the rear oil pan rail is flat and there is no fuel pump block-off plate next to the water pump on the front side...that's a common block. If the rail has "bumps" and there's a fuel pump block-off plate next to the water pump...that's an earlier non-common block.

 

Common block engines will use a "round tooth" type timing belt. The earlier non-common block uses a "square tooth" belt.

 

I hope that helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for the quick response. The car manufactured date shows 3/89 and there is a block-off plate on the block just behind the water pump (good info). I 'll follow the forums historical data for early block part #'s.

My enthusiasm is waning for the crank seal. The procedure is what I was hoping for but the tool may be a problem. I'll have to study on that for a while before I start ripping and tearing. In the meantime I'll get some parts on the way. As a matter of prudence I checked all the oil pan bolts- nice and snug. It doesn't mean I don't have a pan leak at the corner of the pan seal however.

The valve cover also looks good. Any other common points of oil leakage from the passenger aft side of the engine?

 

Thanks

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

For sure check the oil drain back as those are a known leak spot. The rocker cover, front cam seal and the intermediate shaft seal are also places that tend to leak.

 

I personally like to clean the living mess out of everything, then go drive the car and see where the new oil is coming from.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...