Russ@Kiawah

Best Battery for 41' Continental

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The Optima battery has more cold cranking amps than the original lead acid battery and it is sealed so that the fumes and spilled acid do not cause parts near the battery to rust. I have been using one in my car since 1995 and love the fact that it holds it charge over the winter and that I don't have to paint my battery tray every year before storage.

 

Count me as #3 in recommending the Optima. Amazon usually has the best price on them.

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I'm also an optima fan,  just keep it on a trickle charger if you're not going to use it for awhile.  Optima's don't like to charge if they are allowed to get low. 

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13 minutes ago, Ryan Q said:

I'm also an optima fan,  just keep it on a trickle charger if you're not going to use it for awhile.  Optima's don't like to charge if they are allowed to get low. 

I disagree on both counts.  I've had no problems with 6 months storage without any charging.  The secret to recharging Optimas which have gone flat is to hook them in parallel to another battery, even a wet cell, of same voltage, while the 2nd battery has at least a moderate charge.  Low-rate charge for a day.

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5 hours ago, Grimy said:

I disagree on both counts.  I've had no problems with 6 months storage without any charging.  The secret to recharging Optimas which have gone flat is to hook them in parallel to another battery, even a wet cell, of same voltage, while the 2nd battery has at least a moderate charge.  Low-rate charge for a day.

 

Well your results varied from mine on my past optima, and though I was familiar with the second battery in parallel trick I only have one six volt vehicle in the stable so that is a sub-optimal solution in my particular case.  So my LC stays on the battery tender between uses.

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Just now, Ryan Q said:

Well your results varied from mine on my past optima, and though I was familiar with the second battery in parallel trick I only have one six volt vehicle in the stable so that is a sub-optimal solution in my particular case.  So my LC stays on the battery tender between uses.

Ryan, go with what works for you.  I didn't mention that I have a master battery disconnect switch on most, but not all.  Optimas are my battery of choice partially because, except for the Jeepster, the batteries are under the floor or seat making checks of water level and for any corrosion more time consuming.  And an Optima cranks the 525 cubic inch 1918 very well.

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well i had one Optima and the next year i needed another battery. sorry to go against  the grain but i'll never get another Optima. may be it is just me but ,,,it is what it was.

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On 5/27/2017 at 4:22 AM, Tom_Overfield said:

Optima 6 volt in a Lincoln Zephyr case. 

IMG_0708.JPG

I know you posted this over a yer ago but where did you buy the optima and case. Thanks

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Call Chris Herril, Earle Brown, or Al Whelihan--

That repop is a thing of beauty, I have a napa group 2 lead acid 6 volt basic batt, lasts about 5 years, rarely charge, 

I dont like the acid, always has some corrosion on or near it....Gen charges little over 7 volts, light are bright!  Downside is, that 

no one outside of ""collector"" designs make a 2f, which is similar to present day, Damn Ford uses reverse post battery-a bit of a challenge.

IMG_0378.JPGlook at the little beam of light for the key---cool man!!

Edited by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

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non reverse post napa battery with xtra long groundstrap, and poor bunched up factory 

power cable   (with correct little boot!)  Big box suppliers stock a small 6 volt, you want group 2 size six volt.

IMG_1183.JPG

IMG_1184.JPG

Edited by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

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I also want to replace my 6v battery in my '47 Lincoln Continental. Considering Optima but can't find adapters to fasten it into the battery hold down. Also looking at commercial battery from NAPA  https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7212

which has 975 cca'S. It looks like it will fit in hold down (same height, 1/2" less in length and 3/8" more in width. It is recommended for trucks and  buses so I don't know if it is the right spec for my Lincoln. Anyone have experience or knowledge? Thanks, Bill

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well, I'll try---Lincolns of our 6 volt era use a 2-f battery, commonly known today as an "r" reverse post as in "f" 

style, reverse post--here is a group 2 but is not reverse post for fords / lincoln / mercury as a 2f would be--only issue is as illustrated above photo......

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7204

Height 8 3/4 in.
Length

10 3/8 in.

Width 6 7/8 in.

 

NWMDC.jpg

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Did all of the Zephyrs/Continentals have the   + ground wire connected to an engine head stud ?  My 38 has this, and I can't help but think it looks like I bought a ground cable too short and then connected it to the closet point it would fit.  I suppose it would have good conductivity to the engine there though.

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5 hours ago, Mssr. Bwatoe said:

well, I'll try---Lincolns of our 6 volt era use a 2-f battery, commonly known today as an "r" reverse post as in "f" 

style, reverse post--here is a group 2 but is not reverse post for fords / lincoln / mercury as a 2f would be--only issue is as illustrated above photo......

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7204

Height 8 3/4 in.
Length

10 3/8 in.

Width 6 7/8 in.

 

 

5 hours ago, Mssr. Bwatoe said:

well, I'll try---Lincolns of our 6 volt era use a 2-f battery, commonly known today as an "r" reverse post as in "f" 

style, reverse post--here is a group 2 but is not reverse post for fords / lincoln / mercury as a 2f would be--only issue is as illustrated above photo......

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7204

Height 8 3/4 in.
Length

10 3/8 in.

Width 6 7/8 in.

 

 

5 hours ago, Mssr. Bwatoe said:

well, I'll try---Lincolns of our 6 volt era use a 2-f battery, commonly known today as an "r" reverse post as in "f" 

style, reverse post--here is a group 2 but is not reverse post for fords / lincoln / mercury as a 2f would be--only issue is as illustrated above photo......

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7204

Height 8 3/4 in.
Length

10 3/8 in.

Width 6 7/8 in.

 

NWMDC.jpg

 

 

My current battery is 9 1/2 H, 13 W and 6 1/2  D so the NAPA Group 4 will fit. I'll have  to make sure the cables are right for the post diameters. The cables are long enough to reach across the battery without blocking the filler caps so I can install it in reverse since it is not a reverse battery. My concern is whether I can use the commercial battery for the Lincoln application.

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3 hours ago, 40Clubcoupe said:

Did all of the Zephyrs/Continentals have the   + ground wire connected to an engine head stud ?  My 38 has this, and I can't help but think it looks like I bought a ground cable too short and then connected it to the closet point it would fit.  I suppose it would have good conductivity to the engine there though.

The ground cable on my 1947 Continental is connected to the engine block stud so that may be the standard

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The Shop Notes phantom drawings of the 1939, 1940, 1941 Zephyrs shows the cables routed as in the photo posted by Mssr. Bwatoe.

 

The cable connections and post size for automotive batteries have been standardized since before WWII, so your cable will fit on the posts.

 

Here is the battery that NAPA says fits your Lincoln

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7244

 

Eastwood sells a battery mat to protect your battery tray and if you buy the NAPA battery or another unsealed battery, you should use the mat and check regularly for any acid residue around the battery.

 

Farm and Fleet may have a less expensive 6 volt battery for sale that would fit your car.

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3 hours ago, 19tom40 said:

The Shop Notes phantom drawings of the 1939, 1940, 1941 Zephyrs shows the cables routed as in the photo posted by Mssr. Bwatoe.

 

The cable connections and post size for automotive batteries have been standardized since before WWII, so your cable will fit on the posts.

 

Here is the battery that NAPA says fits your Lincoln

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7244

 

Eastwood sells a battery mat to protect your battery tray and if you buy the NAPA battery or another unsealed battery, you should use the mat and check regularly for any acid residue around the battery.

 

Farm and Fleet may have a less expensive 6 volt battery for sale that would fit your car.

 

Tom, thanks for the tip about the tray mat.

I have to be careful about battery size. The NAPA recommended battery is 9" long. Mine is 13". I can't rule out the battery tray and hold down having been replaced in the past to accommodate a larger battery. Good that current battery not dead -- just run down and took a charge so I have time to figure out what to do. 

Also, thanks to you and Matt Harwood's comments a couple of years ago about possible coil problems and recommending Skip Haney for a rebuild. My '47 Lincoln failed to start a number of times on very hot days and with a hot engine. I finally sent my coil to Skip. The car now starts in literally 2 to 3 seconds and has noticeably more power. I guess I was living with a functioning but weak coil. 

 

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Skip actually replaces the coils inside the housing which is the best way.  After so many years the insulation on the copper wire will break down and you'll get internal shorts that are difficult to find.  When the coil arches internally you don't know it, but you get a much smaller spark to the ignition.  Best to send them to him and let him clean them out and replace the copper windings for a better operation.  The ballast resistors on the small panel under the dash are important to make sure you're getting 3-4 VDC to each terminal of the coil when the engine is running.  The resistors drop the voltage from the battery of  6 volts DC and allow the coil  and points to run the ignition.  You don't want a full 6 volts on the coil, not necessary.  You also want at least 3-4 volts for proper operation.  Get or borrow a reliable digital volt meter and check it once you've gotten the rebuilt coil installed. And don't forget the condensers, they can cause poor operation too.  Most don't have capacitor testers, so just get a new pair and not worry about it.  And watch that fan blade as it's close quarters to put your hands around the coil.  Test leads with alligator clips are the best to move the testing away from the fan.  

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