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My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project


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For some reason I had the slows today. I got some things done but I think it was in slow motion... I did finish the fixture for drilling the cotter pin holes in the White water pump shaft. Of course, I left the camera in the office and didn't retrieve it until I'd finished up the lathe part of the job. This piece was drilled 29/64 (hole size for a 1/2-20 thread) then counterbored 3/4" so that there was about 1/2" of the smaller diameter hole left. I then turned it around and threaded the small end.

 

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And tested it by screwing it on to my test taper.

 

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I made some minor adjustments then put it in the mill to put two flats on it. This one is the bottom flat...

 

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The top flat is narrower and center drilled for the through hole and a 5/16-18 nylon tipped set screw. I'm taking the measurements from the SAE Handbook.

 

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I then tried it out on the test taper and it seems to be fine. The threaded section here is about .050 longer than the original but it still is a very close fit with these modern nuts. I suspect the original nuts were thinner...in any case, when I get back to this (probably on Monday) I'll drill the two finished shafts and make up some slightly thinner nuts so everything goes together correctly.

 

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Yesterday I rescued this Hudson radiator from the barn I found the motorcycles in. As bad as it looks the radiator itself seems sound or at least sound enough for me to use in on the motor test stand I'll have to eventually build.

 

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Back to the shop this morning I started with an easy job, drilling the holes for the cotter pins in the White water pump shafts...

 

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It turned out not to quite that easy. The 1/8 drill broke in the first hole. I'm not sure why but I suspect that it caught a burr from the center hole. It was a trick to get it out because, with it in there, I couldn't unscrew the fixture from the shaft. I did get it out and drilled the 2nd shaft with no problem. The finished shafts are 11" long, about 2" of which is pressed into the gear. The pieces of 3/4 stock are 12" long and this time I had the foresight not to trim them first thinking "suppose I have a problem with the taper". I didn't anticipate the hole being a problem. I set it up in the lathe an did the other end though I left the taper measurements at home so I'll do that bit tomorrow...most of the bad end will be trimmed off and all of it will be inside the gear so only the readers of this thread will know I made an error.

 

Not wanting to waste time, I trimmed one of the castle nuts. I'm only removing .050 but this will bring the notches in alignment with the holes.

 

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When I was sure I had the measurements right I made 6 of them. You can't really predict where the notches will come out in relation to the hole so this will give Ed some to choose from...

 

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Then, having an hour left before the end of the day, I put half of the Cadillac pump in the lathe. It's actually screwed on to my 1'-20 threading gauge which holds it perfectly centered. The idea here was to get a perfectly flat surface for the flanged bushing to rest against.

 

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That worked better than it had a right to...

 

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In looking at it, I've decided I can fit a longer bushing. Removing the original thermostat gives me room to work with so I am making some changes to the inside of this pump. I think they will be improvements (at least I hope they are).

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I printed out the measurements for the taper and set the lathe up exactly as I did the last time. Much to my satisfaction, when I tested the setting with an indicator, it was right on. If that sounds odd, when I'm doing something like this (and haven't done it before) I always wonder if my measurements were right or I just got lucky. Since it worked perfectly the 2nd time I guess I did get them right. This time I had no problem at all drilling the cotter pin hole.

 

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Now I have to get back to the dividing head. There are still a couple of small things to do to these shafts - the keyway, the notches for the set screws that will hold it in place and trimming to length but I have to get the dividing head all worked out and make some parts for it. To keep busy today I started two brass plugs for the Cadillac water pumps. This is part of my re-design...these plugs will screw into the end of the housing and hols a Zerk fitting to grease the front bushing. It's a modification of the original system but I think it will be effective in getting grease to the surface it belongs on.

 

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One of the reasons I'm doing this is that, in order to dismantle the pump, I had to bore out the broken thermostat adjuster. I threaded the hole 1"-20 so I'm making the plugs to fit the new hole. Rather than try to explain this, I'll just wait until I've made the parts and I can show them.

 

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Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I started the day with the brass plugs that will go in the Cadillac water pump...

Turned to 1", with the hex section finished.

 

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Then threaded.

 

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This is how it will look. Another piece goes in the center to connect a Zerk fitting with the hollow water pump shaft and transmit grease to the bushing on the opposite end.

 

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While working on this I was thinking about the next step on the dividing head. In order to hold the gear blank I need to be able to put a #9 B&S collet in a #10 B&S taper. This is going to be an adapter, exactly like the adapter Mike M made for 5C collets in his lathe. I'm not sure if this technique for making it will work but I have to try. I should be using a taper attachment - a fixture that comes with many lathes but I only have part of the attachment for this machine. When I bought it (about 40 years ago) I knew much less about machines. Since I have part of it, I suspect the rest of it was there but I simply didn't recognize it. I'm starting with a piece of 12L14, 4" long.

 

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I faced off both ends and will drill and ream it to 1". Then I'll try to put the #9 B&S taper in. All this is pretty straight forward. It's the next step, turning a #10 taper on the OD that will be the real challenge.

 

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Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I finished the 9 to 10 B&S adapter today. For some unknown reason, things have gone very smoothly. I started by drilling and reaming to 1"

 

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Then put in the #9 taper. This is a finishing reamer so I had to go very carefully to prevent it from grabbing...after all, tapers are intended to stick. It called for lots of oil and a very slow feed by hand. The taper only goes in about 1/3 of the way which corresponds with the shape of the collets.

 

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Then the lathe was set up for offset turning. It's important that the offset be perpendicular to the work piece so I leveled the boring head as best I could. It isn't perfect but it's very close.

 

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With the work piece pressed on to a 1" mandrel I set the offset. The offset is calculated on the length of the mandrel rather than the work piece and because the points of the centers go in slightly it isn't easy to get the perfect length. I ended up figuring it for 7" and 6-3/4" - the difference in offset was only .005 and I split the difference.

 

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And then started turning, taking light cuts because with the mandrel at an angle I'm not sure how much pressure it can take. Besides, it's more important it come out right and fast.

 

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Because I'm working on centers, I can take the piece out of the lathe and put it back so when I got down to about .050 larger than I thought it should be I tried it with this #9 B&S center.

 

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I put it back in the lathe, took another cut and tried it again. The final cut was .005 and I may have gone .001 or .002 beyond the optimum measurement but it seems to fit correctly and it's tight.

 

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Tapers are a little forgiving when they are pulled in by a drawbar so even if this isn't as good as it might be had I been able to use a cylindrical grinder I think it will do the job just fine.

 

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Now I have to calculate the "lead"...the amount the gear turns while cutting and make whatever pieces I need to set up the gear train. I'll also make an aluminum test gear first...and I need to get the involute cutter. I thought I had the right one but there is a formula for calculating which cutter to use. If this was a spur gear you use the cutter I have but since it's a spiral gear I need one slightly thinner.

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I really enjoy reading your narrative about the science and art of machining JV.  I hope it will be preserved as a guidebook on how machining problems should be addressed. Without any real evidence I have a feeling that we have lost so much in the way of standards and benchmarks with the forced imposition of the metric.  Your thread is a beacon for a better way. 

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Thank you for the vote of confidence.

I'm not quite as pessimistic about the future of this sort of work as many are. In fact, I believe it may enjoy a renaissance of sorts although I don't think that will come from the trade. Computers have, for the time being, eliminated this sort of one-off work but that doesn't mean no one will do it. What I've noticed is that it's amateurs (like me) who are pursuing it. Oddly enough, the advent of computer driven machines has made all sorts of very high quality industrial machinery available at scrap prices. Among the members here we have several, like Mike M and Jeff (Luv2Wrench), who have developed the same skills and also don't come from a machine-work background...

 

As to metric...I can only say that I agree with Ivan Saxon (another member here) that the inch divided into thousandths is much better measuring system for this work and I'm glad it's appropriate for what I do because the metric system gives me a headache.

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And...I have finally grasped the calculations for the "lead" of the spiral gear. That is the amount it turns while the teeth are being cut. Now I have to see to getting the gear train in place to cut it.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Cured said:

I really enjoy reading your narrative about the science and art of machining JV.

 

Me too. I just wish I had known Joe many years previously. It is only following Joe's work on this forum that got me really interested in learning machining. Unfortunately, it is now a little too late for me, as I can only read about the work of Joe and others, as I am not fit enough to do any actual machining work anymore. 

 

As for the future of this type of work, and the metric system, I shall write later, it is still rather early for me this morning!

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I’ll look forward to your metric comments Mike.  My take from a Canadian perspective is that complete conversion is neither desirable or possible.  Metric will be used where it works better but should not be forced.  

Carry on bravely Joe. 

Cheers Ed

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This was Sunday's project...it was pure bull work as none of the wheels turn. fortunately, my brother-in-law and nephew came to help and we got them home. The Enfield/Indian is in front, and the Norton at the back. In the middle is the smaller bike that I completely misidentified. It's actually a BSA 441 Victor Special. I'm feeling a little dumb about that as my first motorcycle was a 441 Shooting Star - the street version of this bike. The really odd thing is that a few months ago, before my cousin died, I was thinking of getting another Norton or a Shooting Star...I really liked them and regretted selling them. The prices asked today were too discouraging though and I put the idea aside. Now I have the Norton and I'll rebuild the Victor as a Shooting Star - the only different parts all have to be replaced in any case.

 

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Having finally master the lead of the spiral gear for the White, I started the day by cleaning up the gears for the dividing head. It turns out I'm missing two (there are 13 of them in a complete set) but for this job I don't need either of them. They won't be hard to find and, were I of a mind to, I could make them. With that done I decided to fix the Cadillac water pump bushing ... You can see where I machined part of it away. It was badly scored in any case. Rather tham make the whole thing I'm going to repair it with the bushing at the right. Its 1-1/8 OD and 3/4 ID

 

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I cut the bad part off and bored the end to 1-1/8, only deep enough to take out the lip that held the string jpacking.

 

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The housing has an ID of 1-1/8 so I then pressed the new bushing in.

 

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And set it up to solder in place.

 

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All of which worked very neatly. I now have a flat lip on the inside rather than the concave lip it originally had but that is fine as I will press in a modern seal with two coils of square graphite impregnated packing on top.

 

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It then went back in the lathe and the protruding end was turned down to 15/16 to press into the casting.

 

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All in all, I think it's a very neat repair and so much easier than making the entire piece.

 

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All of this went so well that I then decided to get the impeller off the old shaft. This photo is out of focus but the tapered pin that retained them impeller is about 1/3 worn away...I'm guessing there had to be substantial wear to the end of the impeller.

 

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I then removed the ends of the pin with an end mill.

 

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And pressed the impeller off the worn shaft.

 

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Tomorrow I'll start on the bits I need for the gear train. The problem with that is that I don't even know what they are supposed to look like but I'll think of something.

 

 

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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20 hours ago, Cured said:

I’ll look forward to your metric comments Mike.

 

I don't have anything of great importance to say on the subject. I believe it is more of an age thing. Being 73, I really knew very little about metric measurements, when I was at school and college. Possibly I may have known, or found out later, that a kilometre was about 2/3rds of a mile and much later still that an inch was about 25mm.

 

If you mention thousandths of an inch, or fractions of an inch, to the younger generation it is like, speaking an unknown foreign language.

 

In concussion, it is what you are brought up with, Imperial or Metric.

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My problem is that a tenth of a millimeter is .039...roughly .004 while a hundredth of a millimeter is .0039, less than half a thousandth. For machine work on cars I find that tenths are too coarse and hundredths are too fine. What really bothers me the most is that the political "leaders" who foist these things on us have no conception of the problems they cause and, generally, no concern for anyone outside their own rather narrow circle. Back when it was predicted that it was inevitable that the US would adopt the metric system I had a friend who was an electrical engineer. He was all for metrics because it would make his work so much easier and was completely oblivious to the fact that it made it easier to do the drawings and more difficult to make the part...especially when virtually all the tools available to anyone but the biggest and richest companies were in the old system.

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Today I'm back to working on the dividing head, getting it set up to cut the teeth in the White water pump drive gear. There are 4 gears in the train that uses the head to rotate the gear while it is being milled...the two driving gears are mounted on the lead screw of the mill and the driving worm on the dividing head.

 

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The other two gears are mounted on a stud and connect these two in a ratio that will give the correct lead. The stud is adjustable and there are 4 holes, two in the head and two in the table of the mill, to mount it depending on the size of the gears being used. I don't have any of these parts so I'll have to make them. The holes are threaded 5/8-12 - an archaic size (the SAE course thread is 5/8-11). I'll have to order some material tonight but I was able to start on the job by making the two 5/8-12 bolts I will need to attach the studs.

 

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This is 7/8 hex stock turned down to 5/8"...I used this because I have it and 7/8 is the largest hex collet.

Because it's such a coarse thread, the relief at the end of the thread is .065 deep.

 

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I don't much like cutting coarse threads but tis came out as good as could be hoped for,

 

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It's tight in the hole on the back of the head but I suspect the hole is full of crud...

 

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Joe.....looks like witchcraft to me.........if you need me to stop by and help......I can clean the floors and empty the trash........I certainly can’t help with the math or machine work. 👍👍👍

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You'd be welcome any time Ed but I'm sure we'd have so much to talk about that very little work would get done. This whole project has been an adventure - and yes, I realize I have a very odd notion of what constitutes entertainment. So far, this had gone well - I give credit to the White for going a long way to contributing to my skill set. If this comes out right I'll probably think I can make anything...

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10 hours ago, edinmass said:

Joe.....looks like witchcraft to me.........if you need me to stop by and help......I can clean the floors and empty the trash........I certainly can’t help with the math or machine work. 👍👍👍

 

I could sit and watch! 🙂 That dividing head is very impressive, what age is it? I am am confused by the drive gears shown in the last photo as they don't line up? Mike

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They don't line up because the two additional gears, that give it a double reduction, aren't there yet. I still have to make the bracket that will hold them in place. The bolts I just made are to hold the bracket to the machine. The table moves at .250 per turn (it has a 4 TPI lead screw). The lead is 22.9 so the rotation has to be reduced from 1 turn in 1/4 inch to 1 turn in almost 30 inches through a dividing head that has a 40:1 reduction. Don't imagine I can do the math for that...I have printed tables in the B&S treatise on gearing.

 

The head is hard to date because the design goes back to the 1880s or 90s and is still being made, almost unchanged, today. I suspect this one goes back to at least the 20s and maybe WWI.

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I started today by threading the other bolt for the dividing head...

 

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I'm in the midst of waiting for materials and thinking about how to proceed with all these projects. Because I had an idea how to do it I spent some time on the Cadillac water pump. You can see how the casting is broken. There was a drain here. Also, the narrow tube above the drain held a brass rod that was part of the thermostat adjustment. The tube is cracked and I had to drill the brass rod out to get to the shaft bushing. I need to plug this hole and I'd like to keep water from getting into it. Fortunately, the remains of the brass rod are stuck in the hole effectively sealing the crack.

 

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I counterbored the broken section to 5/8", taking out the remains of the threads and then attempted to face off the broken part.

 

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The counterbore worked fine but I wasn't happy with facing so I moved over to the mill.

 

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That worked much better. I then made up a plug that will slip into the hole. I will solder this in place after I've de-rusted the castings and before I paint them.

 

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And, while it doesn't look original, I think it's unobtrusive. Besides, you have to get under the engine to see it.

 

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With that done, I moved back to the dividing head. This is how the gear will be held to mill the teeth.

 

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In order to tighten the collet I need a drawbar and there isn't much room to work with. This piece of aluminum will be a collar on the back side of the head to hole a 1/2-13 socket head cap screw.

 

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Turned to fit into the hole in the spindle and counterbored for the cap screw.

 

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Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

 

I started today by threading the other bolt for the dividing head...

 

IMG_3626.JPG.7686603bf25f7c5fad0c1164bbdb2ba6.JPG

 

I'm in the midst of waiting for materials and thinking about how to proceed with all these projects. Because I had an idea how to do it I spent some time on the Cadillac water pump. You can see how the casting is broken. There was a drain here. Also, the narrow tube above the drain held a brass rod that was part of the thermostat adjustment. The tube is cracked and I had to drill the brass rod out to get to the shaft bushing. I need to plug this hole and I'd like to keep water from getting into it. Fortunately, the remains of the brass rod are stuck in the hole effectively sealing the crack.

 

IMG_3627.thumb.JPG.fb68d5c7752c13e814ae78a093e3c4c7.JPG

 

I counterbored the broken section to 5/8", taking out the remains of the threads and then attempted to face off the broken part.

 

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The counterbore worked fine but I wasn't happy with facing so I moved over to the mill.

 

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That worked much better. I then made up a plug that will slip into the hole. I will solder this in place after I've de-rusted the castings and before I paint them.

 

IMG_3631.JPG.4df9fcaf4738dc031b085913127196a4.JPG

 

And, while it doesn't look original, I think it's unobtrusive. Besides, you have to get under the engine to see it.

 

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With that done, I moved back to the dividing head. This is how the gear will be held to mill the teeth.

 

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In order to tighten the collet I need a drawbar and there isn't much room to work with. This piece of aluminum will be a collar on the back side of the head to hole a 1/2-13 socket head cap screw.

 

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Turned to fit into the hole in the spindle and counterbored for the cap screw.

 

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I like it! There’s way more setup and planning in machine work than most understand. Especially with all manual tooling. Fixturing and setup are always reflected in the final product. Glad I saw your thread! I’ll enjoy seeing your progress. 

Edited by BobinVirginia (see edit history)
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I'm still marking time while I wait for materials and filling in with bits that I will have to do eventually. This morning I bought a gallon of Evapo-Rust to soak the Cadillac water pump castings in...

 

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And then made a "set-up" blank out of aluminum for the White gear. This lump of aluminum is the left over piece from making the fan hub.

 

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Turned down to the OD of the gear...

 

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And faced off to the correct thickness.

 

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Since I've never made a helical gear it would be a good idea to get a little practice in before I start on the finished pieces. Also, the B&S book on gearing suggests using a gear blank to set the exact center of the cutter and, not being the White factory, I don't have an extra blank to play with.

 

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The cutter for the White water pump gear came in but I'm still waiting on the materials to make two gear-holding arms for the dividing head. In the meantime, I'm working on the Cadillac water pump. After soaking in Evapo Rust over the weekend it came out almost completely rust free.

 

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I then set it up to drill and tap for the new drain cock. It is clear from the boss that is part of the casting  that an earlier version of this pump had a drain here. They must have moved it to drain through the thermostat but since I'm removing that this location makes more sense. It's bolted to an angle plate which is then bolted to the table of the drill press. It actually took some thought to come up with a way to hold it so the boss was straight up.

 

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Drilled and tapped for 1/4 NPT.

 

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And the drain in place. If I had them, I'd have liked to use a period drain. This will do and it is under the engine.

 

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Next I fitted the repaired bushing. The first step was to turn an aluminum sleeve to fit into the area where the seal goes. I'm going to pull this in rather than press it and this will keep the threaded rod I use centered.

 

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The press was just about perfect. Originally, they used a set screw to hold it in place but with the press fit that may have been a bit of overkill. In any case, I used some Loctite press fit glue on it.

 

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Today's last effort was replacing the one stud that had come out. Again, I put some Loctite on the threads.

 

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This piece is now done and I can paint it. The other half of the casting is in the Evapo Rust but I can't really fit it until the material for the new shafts arrives. Aside from those, I'm very close to being able to reassemble this pump.

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I spent the entire day on an unrelated project for my friend that owns the building...but I did notice that the pieces I need for the dividing head are in Providence which means they will probably be delivered tomorrow. I won't be here but we'll be back on track with the various car projects on Friday.

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I'm back to the car projects today...first I sprayed some rattle-can primer on one of the water pump castings. This is supposed to take 48 hours to completely cure so I won't paint it until Monday.

 

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I then started on the two arms that hold the intermediate gears on the dividing head. To make them as near identical as I can, I'm drilling and tapping for 1/4-20 cap screws to hole them together. These holes will eventually be obliterated by the slot that runs down the center.

 

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Then the ends were squared.

 

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And I drilled the ends 5/16" These holes will be threaded 3/8-16 for half-inch shoulder bolts that the gear will be mounted on.

 

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Never having seen one of these in operation, I'm guessing at what they should look like.

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I threaded those holes and then went back to the mill to reduce the width of the arm where the gear will be.

 

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I then added two center holes at either end of the slot. These are so that when I plunge mill the slot I don't have to take out the full width...

 

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And milled the slots.

 

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I also want to round the ends where the gears go...

 

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This didn't come out quite perfect though it will make no difference in how it works. I know what I could have done better. Making things like this, in addition to being useful, serves as practice for when I make something that really needs to be perfect. I frequently say the knowing how something is done is a lot different than knowing how to do it.

 

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I spent the entire day fiddling with the dividing head. I'm getting closer but never having seen the right parts there is a certain amount of experimenting needed to get it to work. This is how the aluminum arms I made are supposed to work...

 

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There is a piece of 1" keyed shafting that fits over the shoulder bolt. Two gears are mounted here and, because of the key, rotate together.

 

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This part seems fine and is the setup for a right spiral. If I need to turn a left spiral I have to add another gear to reverse the direction of the dividing head. That's the purpose of the second aluminum arm and I made a short 1" sleeve to go on it. That doesn't have to be keyed because all it does is rotate.

 

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I'm not confident I've got it right yet so I'll have to keep playing with it.

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Unfortunately, I haven't a clue on how to do videos and I don't have one of those "smart" phones, much less the more sophisticated equipment. I'll take some pictures but I agree it wouldn't be as neat as watching it work.

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9 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Unfortunately, I haven't a clue on how to do videos and I don't have one of those "smart" phones

 

Ditto - Perhaps someone can post a video on what smart phone to buy and how to use it. 🙂 I do have a Nokia mobile phone (cell phone) that I bought 20-years ago, has never gone wrong, does not need charging very often, and it still works fine for phone calls and texts. I use my laptop when I want to access the internet.

 

Keep up the good work Joe, I am still enjoying following your great posts.

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On 11/9/2020 at 5:32 PM, JV Puleo said:

I'm getting closer Ed...I may be cutting that gear by this time next week.

 

jp


Joe.....when you started this project you said you didn’t want a deadline..........and I promised I wouldn’t ask for one. The White is running and driving regularly and is getting along fine with the temporary repair on the shaft. I will admit it has started leaking just a bit. But I haven’t adjusted the packing since it’s about 1/2 an ounce a day. Since I’m running water with cutting oil replacement coolant is not very expensive. Florida is “open” as far as the pandemic goes. Starting to get visitors at the museum again. It’s great to get back to semi normal. Have four visitors for the White today........Some more Pierce Arrow people who specialize in original cars........and some Springfield Rolls people..........should be a fun day. Might even get a ride in if the weather cooperates. I sure would like to see a video of the gear cutting......maybe I will send AJ over to shoot it..........he’s got time on his hands now..........take your time............and thanks for the help. I think I am going to upgrade the tires on the White soon.........best, Ed

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It looks as if I don't need the idler gear for this job so I can get on with a test. I have a small job that has to be done in the mill in it's current form and would like to finish it before I convert the machine to horizontal mode. Unfortunately, the materials haven't come in yet though I'm hoping they arrives today or tomorrow (it's overdue but I know it shipped). When I've done that, I rearrange the mill.

 

 

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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I didn't think I'd get much done today but here it is the end of the day and I've been busy the whole time. I started by putting the main drive gear on the mill to test the gear train for the dividing head. Although I knew it would work, it was still nice to actually see it working.

 

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Then I took the other half of the Cadillac water pump out of the Evapo-Rust...it was as clean as I clean possibly hope for and this business of letting it soak while doing something else is very nice...Since it was ready to go, I soldered in the plug I made for what had been the thermostat adjustment.

 

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Then pressed in the flanged bushing that goes in this half.

 

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Then I decided to finish the plugs that line up with the end of the shaft and hold a grease fitting. First, I made two tubes, 1-3/4" long, 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" hole in the center.

 

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These were soldered into the plugs.

 

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Then the outside end was drilled and tapped 1/8 NPT for a Zerk fitting.

 

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All of which went smoothly.

 

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The projection sticks into the end of the water pump shaft - which is drilled and counterbored to receive it. The grease is forced in at the end and comes out of a hole in the shaft that aligns with the bushing at the other end. It seems a fairly awkward system and I'm not surprised it was changed...I think this will actually be a bit more positive than the original system was.

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The material for the Cadillac water pump shafts came in at the end of the day, Friday but my weekend was tied up with other projects so I didn't start on them until this morning. I'm anxious to get this done because I'd like to get to the gear cutting but don't want to rearrange the mill until the slot in the end of these shafts is cut. First step was to cut two pieces 7" long.

 

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The they were drilled a little under 1/4" to a depth of 3-3/4"

 

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And the ends counterbored 1/2" about 5/8" deep

 

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This shows how it works. The grease goes through the hollow shaft and comes out inside the bushing nearest the engine.

 

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Both bushings were too tight so I lapped one...

 

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The impeller...

 

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And then the other casting.

 

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The pump goes together but it's tight...which is not surprising given the two bushings have to be in perfect alignment. Given wear and some questionable repairs in the past, the fact that they went together at all was satisfactory. The solution for this is to line-lap the two bearings...I started with the barrel lap.

 

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But I'm thinking a piece of 3/4" bar with lapping compound on it might work better...I'll try that tomorrow.

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There is only one unusual thing about the Cadillac water pump repair........it’s being done correctly. People ask why a correct water pump rebuild is so expensive........? When was the last time your machine shop was willing to de-rust anything. Notice the custom silver solder job to save cost.......and still be 100 percent correct in the repair. What shop would prime and paint the casting.......none.  Lock-tite the studs? No one would bother. Lap the bushing in line with a custom rod/shaft.......impossible. There are 1000 ways to rebuild this pump, and only a few of them are correct. You are seeing a job done with craftsmanship and “yankee ingenuity.” It will be better than new, and a permanent fix. Sure hope this praise doesn’t increase the cost of my water pump shaft! 😜

 

This pump will not leak when finished, and will last the next four hundred years.........as it should. Quality NEVER goes out of style.

 

👍👍👍

 

 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Don't worry Ed...it will have no effect on the White job which is, to my mind, a more interesting challenge. It's very easy for contemporary collectors to overlook just how well made some of these things were. Half the effort on this pump is correcting bad, ham-fisted repairs. It will be interesting to see how the other one looks because I purposely started on what I thought was the worst of the two. In any case, I always deny being a machinist. I know some machinists and they are light years ahead of me. I think of myself as a "yankee mechanic"...which reminds me, I wonder if anyone here has ever seen a piston/connecting rod like this one...

 

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The inventor was my great-grandfather.

 

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An easy one.  This arrangement when used in the context of steam engines is called a Scotch Yoke.  Not that its origin lies in Scotland but in that the yoke is scotched (restrained).  What you may know as a chock (to stop your wheeled vehicle running away) is in steam parlance a scotch.  I also have a vague recollection that Subaru has recently used this device in a power steering pump or something similar.  Was a patent granted? I'm pretty sure that the use of the Scotch Yoke goes well back into the nineteenth century. 

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Yes, the patent was granted...that is the official document. He submitted it in 1904 and it was granted in 1906. the patent was assigned to the Thames Motor Co. of New London, Connecticut. This is from a period trade magazine...

 

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That must be where the old fashioned term "scotched" - meaning stopped, comes from.

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I gave some thought last night to lapping the two bushings in the pump. I'm pretty certain that the central piece of the larger casting was broken out - which explains the messy braze repair. Nevertheless, it went together albeit with too much drag on the shaft as the bushings weren't perfectly in line. I decided to make a long lap from another piece of the 3/4 ground stock...starting by facing off both ends.

 

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Then turning a shallow taper on one end...this is to center it in the bushing as hold some grinding paste...

 

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I also turned the other end down to fit in the small chuck on the drill...

 

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Going very gently, this worked reasonably well.

 

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But because the Morse taper in the spindle isn't intended to pull up, the chuck pulled out a couple of times. The fit, however, while tight, was readily turnable by hand so I finished the lapping by putting a lathe dog on the lapping arbor.

 

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This was a big improvement but it was still a tiny bit tight in one place so I used a flex-hone on the bushings...and that did the trick.

 

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Then I went on to the impeller. I'm adding bronze thrust washers, one on each side, to compensate for the obvious wear on the impeller.

 

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The impeller itself was drilled and tapped for 1/4-28 set screws. I'm using the fine thread because the wall of the impeller is so thin.

 

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Two flats were also milled on the shaft...they are wider than needed to allow for a little adjustment if necessary.

 

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Last, I located and drilled the cross hole for grease to reach the inner bushing...

 

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When all this was done I reassembled it. The shaft now turns easily without any measurable play. This is what you want...I suspect the severe galling on the original shaft was partly attributable to the bushings not being in line. The packing and seal will put some drag on the shaft so it is important to be certain it is turning freely before those go in.

 

Tomorrow my pal Mike West is visiting and Thursday we're going to collect a 1920s gas pump so I may not get much done before Friday...I still have the slots to mill in the ends of the shafts but decided it was wise to quit while I was ahead and do that when I'm rested.

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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