JohnD1956 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 It looks like a big radiator. It causes me to ask: Is it possible to have too much cooling capacity? I mean I imagine it would take extra long to warm up the engine fully with a radiator that is too large. Also is there any inherent problems with an aluminum engine if it does not get up to engine operating temperatures? The only thing I have in so far as experience with this was our 93 Buick Regal Custom, which came with the towing package. That package included an external trans cooler. I believe it was hooked up so the trans fluid went to the external cooler first, then through the radiator cooler. Here in the Northeast, the car took a long time to heat up and cooled off rapidly when shut down. Also the interior heater wasn't optimal as fast as our other cars, which were pretty much late 70's GM products of one sort or another. While I'm sure the tranny was the recipient of the benefit here, I just wonder if the aluminum engine would have a problem if it was to develop some cool spots due to excess cooling capacity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 The thermostat is the regulator of engine temp. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Yes, I agree, if the engine ever gets to that temp. If it doesn't then my question is: could there be problems with an aluminum motor as a result? As a side note, the '56 shop manual calls for a 160* thermostat in the summer. In the fall however this is hardly adequate for the cabin heater. In my 56 I used to have fouled plugs often. However when I switched to a 180* thermostat several years ago, I have not had a fouled plug since. I have heard that todays cars run 195* thermostats in part, at least, to aid in full combustion. Would a cooler aluminum motor possibly run the risk of increased frequency of fouled plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 An aluminum radiator wasnt my first choice but finding a replacement was pretty hard or out of my price range I plan on putting am oem radiator back in but this one will let me drive the car till i can 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 (edited) 40 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said: Yes, I agree, if the engine ever gets to that temp. If it doesn't then my question is: could there be problems with an aluminum motor as a result? As a side note, the '56 shop manual calls for a 160* thermostat in the summer. In the fall however this is hardly adequate for the cabin heater. In my 56 I used to have fouled plugs often. However when I switched to a 180* thermostat several years ago, I have not had a fouled plug since. I have heard that todays cars run 195* thermostats in part, at least, to aid in full combustion. Would a cooler aluminum motor possibly run the risk of increased frequency of fouled plugs? The engine should get to operating temp via the thermostat keeping the system closed off to the radiator. Agreed on the 160 thermostat. Poor heating in the cabin, engine not very efficient and fouling plugs with my 54 . It was almost like the thermostat was alway open allowing circulation all the time. I currently run the 180 thermostat. Much different in all respects. Edited February 22, 2018 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, Pinhead63 said: An aluminum radiator wasnt my first choice but finding a replacement was pretty hard or out of my price range I plan on putting am oem radiator back in but this one will let me drive the car till i can We understand completely! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 But ill definetly keep an eye on the plugs while ive got it in there thanks for the info 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 The 160 thermostat probably isn't open all the time, but most likely it's not allowing the coolant to stay in the engine long enough to absorb the heat from the block before it opens up and is purged to the radiator. There is a heat transfer coefficient that needs to be satisfied in the system, and its the limiting factor for how long it takes the heat to transfer from the solid block to the fluid coolant. Once it's at the radiator, its just normal convection. You shouldn't worry about how big the radiator is in terms of affecting the engine block. A larger radiator just means the fluid in it cools faster due to more surface area. If available, you could even benefit from a high flow water pump. The water pump's main purpose is to purge the block of fluid, so the faster you get it out, the quicker you can get the cool stuff in. They just inadvertently work harder and can cause more cavitation if not designed properly. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I recognize this, did two years at the Charleston, SC Naval Base. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Oil pump back on and primed. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 I wish i had some better before pictures this is my battery tray two of the corners were completely gone you can kinda see it in the first picture. I had a battery tray from a older skylark that was in good shape but not as long as my tray so i used it to patch the original tray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Looks like you've been following sebastienbuick! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 14 hours ago, EmTee said: Looks like you've been following sebastienbuick! Im guessing thats another forum member? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 27 minutes ago, Pinhead63 said: Im guessing thats another forum member? Yes. He has an amazing thread here on me and my buick. I think it's restore my 69 Buick. He makes all his own patch panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 1 hour ago, Pinhead63 said: Im guessing thats another forum member? A real master especially considering the minimalistic tools he's working with. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 8 hours ago, Pinhead63 said: Im guessing thats another forum member? Here's the link -- amazing work... http://forums.aaca.org/topic/278323-restore-my-buick-electra-1969/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 10 minutes ago, EmTee said: Here's the link -- amazing work... http://forums.aaca.org/topic/278323-restore-my-buick-electra-1969/ Yeah I checked out his posts earlier hes very talented it took all day to do that battery box I can only imagine the time and effort hes put into his car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Heres the final product. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Nice! I am posting this just so I get #100 on your thread! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Here is some more of the "minor" modification needed to install my new radiator. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Pinhead63 said: Here is some more of the "minor" modification needed to install my new radiator. :Looks good, I doubt that radiator will move! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Nice fab work Mike, with what did you cut the base plates with.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 I got them close to the shape I wanted with my angle grinder and the rest I ground with my bench grinder basically On 3/17/2018 at 9:40 AM, MrEarl said: Nice fab work Mike, with what did you cut the base plates with.? I just ground off everything that wasnt a radiator bracket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Final product with rubber pads 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 The radiator and all of the "minor" modifications needed to install it are done. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 I can't wait to see this car back on the road! Did you get the oil pressure ironed out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Im not sure. I cranked it for the first time after rebuilding the oil pump and the gauge read 90 psi then dropped to 50 psi after i ran it for a bit im assuming its working out the Vaseline i used to prime the pump but i dont know what normal pressure is for this engine 6 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said: I can't wait to see this car back on the road! Did you get the oil pressure ironed out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 17 minutes ago, Pinhead63 said: Im not sure. I cranked it for the first time after rebuilding the oil pump and the gauge read 90 psi then dropped to 50 psi after i ran it for a bit im assuming its working out the Vaseline i used to prime the pump but i dont know what normal pressure is for this engine 50 psi is plenty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Just now, avgwarhawk said: 50 psi is plenty. At idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 5 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: 50 psi is plenty. I was thinking 50 is too high at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 21 minutes ago, Pinhead63 said: At idle? It is a bit high at idle. Does you manual have specs on oil pressure? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Pinhead63 said: The radiator and all of the "minor" modifications needed to install it are done. Nice fabricating by the way! Not sure what the factory Oil pressure should be but all mine run roughly 40 lbs at 2200 rpm. The 78 stood out. It was 37 lbs at 2400 rpm. So 50 lbs at idle does seem high. I had heard that pressure could be adjusted by spreading the spring in the pressure chamber. Maybe it's got an incorrect spring in there? One that too thick? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Pinhead63 said: Im not sure. I cranked it for the first time after rebuilding the oil pump and the gauge read 90 psi then dropped to 50 psi after i ran it for a bit im assuming its working out the Vaseline i used to prime the pump but i dont know what normal pressure is for this engine In the old days, 10 lbs. per 1,000 rpm's was used as a guide. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 I cant find any info in the manual on what the oil pressure should be but its quite possible I put the wrong spring in. I just went out and cranked her again and the pressure is back up to 80 psi so something isnt right ill have to look at my springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinhead63 Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 Its taken me a year to get to this point but i finally got to drive her to work man i was nervous 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 All these years later and she is plying the roadways once again going to work. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now