Jump to content

Tilt Delco Turn Signal Switch <RE-ASSEMBLY/SPRINGS!>


XframeFX
 Share

Recommended Posts

I know this has been most everyone's issue and has been posted before, However, it  has been mostly on the cable and switch replacement.

My 1963 cable is fine even after gently forcing it. Switch would go only part way. Purged it with shop air, contact cleaner, more air and finished with a liberal purge of Fluid Film. Restored full actuation but poor contacts.

A replacement with cornering lights is impossible. So, I had to dis-assemble the switch. Upon re-assembly, 2 of the 4 springs reside under the outer tri-angular contacts and the remaining 2 springs go into the 2 pockets of the sliding block? Obviously no spring under the cornering lights  (no pocket) but no spring under the center tri-angular contact?

It seems there should be a 5th spring under the center contact. I carefully split open a 2nd 1st series 1963 switch. Again the contacts and springs were dis-oriented. Only thing I discovered is that the 2nd switch has only 4 springs as well.

Images do not show contacts but the underside of the sliding block shows 5 spring pockets. Rob a spring from my other switch to supplement the original sketchy design?

Where do the springs go?

Thanks,

John B.

DelcoRemy_DR3_Switch_B.JPG

DelcoRemy_DR3_Switch_C.JPG

DelcoRemy_DR3_Switch_D.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, those steel balls, .095” dia. if needing replacements, TX.

I figured out those contact springs shortly after posting this. I placed the cornering light contact in the middle (over the “4”) where there’s no spring pocket. It fit like it belonged! Image shows where it should be, to 1 side.

FYI warning on this unobtainable switch. I assembled my 1st gen switch with a specialty lithium grease I painstakingly researched. While trying to snap it gently into place with a blade screwdriver, I broke off the most important clip! Good practice for my 2nd gen switch, will be more careful. Only the same clip broke off in my hands on the 2nd switch! Everything is useless without that clip to hold it all together. No place to safety wire, nothing, poor design, poor material. I ended-up pounding out an awful bracket that I robbed from my bifold doors.

If I didn’t have a need to move on with my project, I would’ve implemented a better solution. The wiper motor set me back 3 days as it is. Clearly a new base needs to be cut for the bakelite switch. A base out of quality steel with plenty of provisions to secure it.

Electrically, both switches now work perfectly. So, grit and those contacts not making a connection was the root cause. I used the left contacts from each switch in the 2nd gen as both right side contacts had more wear.

About the slide spring. The 1st gen had a strong spring, 2nd gen was weaker and a 6 contact spring from a Chev weaker yet. It appears to be there to overcome the wire harness. That’s probably the reason Packard Electric did not wrap the harness here. Originally 9 wires with the cornering lights and I unwisely chose the switch connector to re-crimp 5 contacts for a 3rd stop lamp and 4-way flashers. 14 wires now terminated here, I’m using the weakest spring.

Another solution is to skip the cornering lights and buy an OER 6 contact switch with a wrong bracket and strap it to your steering column with a steel hose clamp or HD tye-wraps.

http://www.shee-mar.com/parts.html

Now on to a dead A/C blower motor and those flakey dome light door switches!

Riviera_TurnSwitch_2.JPG

Riviera_TurnSwitch_18.JPG

Riviera_TurnSwitch_19.JPG

Riviera_TurnSwitch_07.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your solution is good.

 

I leave the long coil spring off of the mounting bracket entirely.  It is overkill, it is not needed, and it breaks the cable sheath that runs up to the turn signal actuator under the steering wheel when you tilt the wheel up against the spring tension.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

TX Jim, during the adjustment procedure, I decided to leave off even the weak spring after I discovered the cruise wiring harness was clashing with the signal light wires. While adjust the switch, I figured its better to let the cable buckle a bit (switch higher up on the column) than to have the switch too low where it could pull on the cable when the tilt is fully up. The tilt appears to use 90% of the switch travel.

When fully tilted up, the left signal doesn't quite cancel even though the lever is in the middle. However, it works in all other tilt positions 100%!

My 4-way flashers work too good in that the 3rd stop lamp flashes as well. Hmm, need a 2-pole brake light switch to make it right. I think I'll just leave it as is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

Your solution is good.

 

I leave the long coil spring off of the mounting bracket entirely.  It is overkill, it is not needed, and it breaks the cable sheath that runs up to the turn signal actuator under the steering wheel when you tilt the wheel up against the spring tension.

 

 

I had read this in an old post and when I replaced my switch last week, I was prepared to remove the new spring. The spring on the new switch has almost no resistance. The old spring was strong. If I hadn't have read the old post where you said to remove it all together, I would have replaced the new spring with the old spring as the new one appears too weak. Thanks, Jim.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Just trying to clarify "placed the cornering light contact in the middle (over the “4”) where there’s no spring pocket. It fit like it belonged!"

Q. Is this where the bottom contact should sit, in the middle over "4"?

XFrameFX, Jim Cannon

20201209_125316.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Mick007 said:

Just trying to clarify "placed the cornering light contact in the middle (over the “4”) where there’s no spring pocket. It fit like it belonged!"

Q. Is this where the bottom contact should sit, in the middle over "4"?

XFrameFX, Jim Cannon

20201209_125316.jpg

 

No, put it in the hole on the lower left in the photo, as shown. Read the post again.

 

"Image shows where it should be, to 1 side."

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jim, Have just reassembled the switch with the cornering light contact in both positions and still getting same result. Right indicator front and back both working but the Left indicator is only showing dim constant indicator light on the dash and no flashing bulb.

Thanks 

Edited by Mick007 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Mick007 said:

Thanks Jim, Have just reassembled the switch with the cornering light contact in both positions and still getting same result. Right indicator front and back both working but the Left indicator is only showing dim constant indicator light on the dash and no flashing bulb.

Thanks 

 

Sounds like a bad ground (earth) at one of the outside turn/stop light housings, or a bad bulb. That would explain good turn light on one side and poor light on the other side. Is stop light brightness the same left and right in rear? If so, look at front housings.

 

Did you bench test the switch after you put it all back together, using an ohmmeter? If no high resistance inside the switch when it is operated, the switch is not the problem.

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...