JSchuttCADD Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 i have recently taken over the restoration of a 1936 buick roadmaster after my grandfather had passed away working on it, unfortunately for me he was not a very organized man, and after going through all of the stuff he had scattered all over the place, i think i had found the correct master cylinder for this car. this is my first restoration job i've done and i havent been able to find hardly any info on this master cylinder and i'm not even sure if its the correct cylinder for this car, if somebody more experienced with this could lend a beginner some helping tips id be very grateful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I don't think it is correct for the car. According to my parts manual, 1936 Series 60-80-90 brake hydraulic brake master cylinder for left hand drive cars should be part number 5450275. You will find lots of help here. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. I would also suggest you might want to join the 36-38 Buick Club. You can check out the club at http://www.3638buickclub.org/. You can download a membership application at: http://www.3638buickclub.org/membership.html For any missing parts, Dave Tacheny is the guy with the most parts cars and best source of parts for any 1936-1941 Buick. He can be reached between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. For reproduction parts and other supplies you may want to get catalogs from : Bob's Automobilia http://bobsautomobilia.com CARS, Inc. http://www.oldbuickparts.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchuttCADD Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) 38 minutes ago, MCHinson said: Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I don't think it is correct for the car. According to my parts manual, 1936 Series 60-80-90 brake hydraulic brake master cylinder for left hand drive cars should be part number 5450275. You will find lots of help here. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. I would also suggest you might want to join the 36-38 Buick Club. You can check out the club at http://www.3638buickclub.org/. You can download a membership application at: http://www.3638buickclub.org/membership.html For any missing parts, Dave Tacheny is the guy with the most parts cars and best source of parts for any 1936-1941 Buick. He can be reached between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. For reproduction parts and other supplies you may want to get catalogs from : Bob's Automobilia http://bobsautomobilia.com CARS, Inc. http://www.oldbuickparts.com/ unfortunately, the link for www.oldbuickparts.com did not work for me, however thank you very much for the help Edited May 16, 2017 by JSchuttCADD (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 I noticed that the link is not working but I think their website is down temporarily. I have accessed that site fairly recently but could not tonight. Bob's is my first choice generally anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchuttCADD Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 do you have any recommendations for finding a master cylinder other than spending 150$ on a new cylinder for my car specifically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 It is possible that the one you have might be able to be made to work. It looks similar to the one for 1937 Series 80 and 90 that Bobs sells. The best advice I can give you is call Dave Tacheny. If anybody has one at a good price, it will be him. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynaflash8 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 The number on that master cylinder may be a casting number rather than a part number. Get in contact with Dave Tachney. In any case you may have to send it off to be re-sleeved, depending on the condition of the core. Several places do re-sleeving, but get a kit first and see if the cylinder you ultimately use can be honed and used, because re-sleeving is expensive, and I think well more than $150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchuttCADD Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 26 minutes ago, Dynaflash8 said: The number on that master cylinder may be a casting number rather than a part number. Get in contact with Dave Tachney. In any case you may have to send it off to be re-sleeved, depending on the condition of the core. Several places do re-sleeving, but get a kit first and see if the cylinder you ultimately use can be honed and used, because re-sleeving is expensive, and I think well more than $150. After doing a bit more research I've found that the correct master cylinder is 1-1/8" Dia. Rather than this one which is 1-1/4". And another problem I would have if I were to try to use this master cylinder is that I have absolutely no information on it, I don't know what car it's from, nor do I know what rebuild kit I would need for it, not to mention the core quality is quite poor so I would have to get it either resleeved or honed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchuttCADD Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) After doing more research I've determined that this master cylinder I have is off of a 1936 Chevrolet. It does have the same bolt spacing as the one for my 36 Buick, does that mean I shouldn't have a problem using this cylinder with my car? Or are there other aspects I need to take into consideration such as the bore size or stroke length. EDIT: i decided to try and dry fit everything together with this master cylinder and the major problem i had run into is that the cylinder needs to be lower in order for the push rod to have a mostly horizontal stroke. so i could either drill new holes in this bracket i have that mounts on the transmission housing, which would be very, very difficult because where the cylinder would need to bolt to happens to be the same place that the mount attatches to the transmission housing (shown in picture), and my second option is to find a new master cylinder with the mounting bolts coming out of the middle of the cylinder. i hope my pictures help a little bit with illustrating my problem. the 3rd image shows the cylinder in the mount correct way, and im holding the push rod about where it would be sitting if attached to the brake pedal. Edited May 16, 2017 by JSchuttCADD (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynaflash8 Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 That master cylinder is probably for the 40-60 model. NAPA still has kits for the 40-60 master cylinder. The kit number is, believe it or not, 3 (as in three). Don't use the wrong one, you will regret it. Go to Dave Tashney and see if he has the correct one. Also, you have to hone any of these before putting in a kit. If the hone won't clean it up, then you have to resort to sleeving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I would not "dry fit" the cylinder seals, etc.. as you might damage them. I would always use some brake fluid for any assembly for lubrication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Check with Doug Seybold in Westlake, Ohio. He can get you the right cylinder,and will rebuild it properly. 440-835-1193 40BuickGuy@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchuttCADD Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 All I meant by "dry fitting" was I was going to set the cylinder (not assembly) in the mount and see if the angle of engagement between the cylinder and the push rod while connected to the brake pedal would be suitable for use, however, I have recently found a master cylinder for this car specifically, but thank you all very much for getting me headed in the right direction, as I had said before, this is my first restoration, and I'm sure I will be back on the forums again for more inquiries, thank you all again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 15 hours ago, JSchuttCADD said: All I meant by "dry fitting" was I was going to set the cylinder (not assembly) in the mount and see if the angle of engagement between the cylinder and the push rod while connected to the brake pedal would be suitable for use, however, I have recently found a master cylinder for this car specifically, but thank you all very much for getting me headed in the right direction, as I had said before, this is my first restoration, and I'm sure I will be back on the forums again for more inquiries, thank you all again J, You need to call Ron Carp @ Carps Power Brake Supply in Upland, California Ph 909-985-0800. Ron rebuilt 4 wheel cylinders and Master cylinder on my '40 Buick LTD by inserting 304 stainless tube in each cylinder. This was 5 years ago and she still stops on a dime and NO DRIPS, = I'm a happy camper..... I thought the price was VERY reasonable. and I drove out to Ca. just to see him and personally thank him for a job well done ! Mike in Colorado 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 I can vouch for Carps too. They have done a couple of different cars for me. They were great to work with. (I temember it being spelled Karps). Two things impressed me. They were very prompt in getting the job done. The price for work on a high end make of car was the same as my Buick (as it should be). This is often not the case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Ooooppppsss,I thought a Buick WAS a high end car................ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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