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1934 LaS basket case attempt..


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I already mentioned this new upcoming project on my Nash thread.  I did not want to start a thread yet, because I need to finish the Nash first, and do other jobs also.

 

From my other Nash thread today,.... comments from Alsancle:

 

"  You need to start another build thread for that car. "

 

" Not to mention I will find the build thread entertaining, so you have that going for you too. " 

 

 

,,,and when I told him that I am "terrified" of the wood replacement, due to my lack of any skill there.... he said:

 

"Just jump right in.  The water is fine!  :D"

 

 

Great support from the readers.  That is one good reason for a build thread, inspiration, and advice.

 

 

My first task in the next few days is getting the hulk indoors, but we have 10 vehicles in two buildings now.  I can move stuff in the other "barn" to get it in, but it will be inconvenient if I want to look at it to match up parts in spare time.  So, first, I need to finish a young fellows 34 Ford 1.5 ton truck in the work bay in a few days I hope.  Then get the next one coming in from the very back end bay of our big building, to put in the main work bay.  Then this hulk will be in it's own bay, right near a lot of it's parts.  Easy/peasy :(

 

 

 

Since the wood is so daunting and "on my mind a lot", I took some time to lay out what I knew could not be a complete "rough cut kit".  Dated '08, but no idea from whom.

 

Here is what I found so far....part of it mocked up, the rest in the other pics to follow.  I know at least one of the two trunk lids are already done from this kit, hopefully both are.  They are buried right now.

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^ any ideas on the smallest piece with two half circles???

 

See that long dagger shaped part?  That I am happy to find, as that part of the body framing is so much "gone", next to the lower quarter panel next to framerail.

 

I figured out how that fits, then looked at the car to figure the rest of it.

 

The pic below has a yellow screwdriver pointing to where that dagger piece fits into:

 

you also can see a rusty long piece of 1" angle iron torn loose/bent, that heads to the upper left of pic.  That was laid right over the top of the old dagger piece,  Not sure if it was a patch when the car got weak, as there is only one side left here.  It looks a bit crude, but I've seen that crude parts were sometimes used in low production bodies. 

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Some of the other side wood mocked up below: That front vertical piece is for upholstery, not a B pillar...the old one is right there behind the new one.. That dagger piece needs to go between the frame and quarter...just showing the direction here.

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Below is the driver front door pillar, AKA  "A pillar", I don't have new ones, nor the rear post called the B pillar... but it's not too intricate, as it's made of layering 3/4" boards together.  Rear pillar looks easier as there is no tricky curve, like the curved front door edge needs...but both look "do able" at my skill level.

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Last pic today is the actual main sills/flooring crossbracing.   I am missing new ones. These again, are merely layers of 3/4" boards...easy, if I can figure out how the A and B pillar attaches to make for a strong structure.

 

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Look at that above pic at the yellow screwdriver pointing to a rusty stain from a large sheetmetal floor. I have some random flooring, but can't drag them out right now,  I think maybe a mid floor?, then a rear floor for the spare tire notch.  The battery door is gone but easy as it was wood. Front floor I will look at what it was, by stains or recesses.

 

Man I got to get the customers Ford done, no more playtime :( 

 

 

I just now get a call that the coupe might be selling.....trying to get a price out of me...how should I know, except there seems to be a effort to finally get it all gone.  If I get there in time, I need pics, or a peek at the door opening sill.  I know there is the aluminum carpet sill cover, but what goes under, to cover the sill wood when door is open?

Edited by F&J (see edit history)
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Yes I worked hard on the Ford truck this afternoon, (took pics if you need proof :) ) but I did make time for more exploration:

 

Long post with many pics:

 

That heavy duty wooden beam across the tail of car:  It fits excellent, the body nailing edge above it fits right into the routered step.  Here it is slightly pulled away to see the step.  The pockets on the top side are marked: "for latches".  That is the trunklid for tire and luggage, tools.  Oh, and both this lid and rumble do have new wood already installed.

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The underside of that big beam has 3 pockets that looked like places for a 1/8" thick plate to screw to the beam, and a deeper recess for a welded nut on the back of each plate.  It took a year to run across the apron below this lower edge of body.  I got it out to see if it could fit, as it is marked "for 34 Cadillac".   The pockets match the bolt holes in apron. I circled the holes and pockets in light blue.

 

Yellow circle is "half" of the opening for the 34-only Cad and Las "spring loaded bumper" tubes!  Cad tubes differ from LaS in mounting to frame, as well as where the big chromed bullets attach.  The other "half" of the bumper tube hole is part of each rear fender.  The red is the single tailpipe hole.  This could be Cad or LaS but could fit both.  I can check in parts book here, but it's a go for now.. 

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When I looked for that apron, I saw a pair of these convertible rear "kick panels".  I always figured they must be for this car as the color would have gone good with the black paint.  They came close to fitting, except that forward lower tail is in the way.  They are not for this body style.

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Below you can see my blue lines showing that the original kick panels must have wrapped around that curved edged upright trim board (the one with 3 mounting holes in it)  Not sure if it was thin tin, or fiberboard yet.

 

The white arrow shows a bracket that helps support the parcel tray behind the seat.  The white line shows the remains of a wood shelf.  That shelf is behind the kick panel.  It is the bottom of a "well" for the top iron to fold into.

 

 

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In my opening first post, I did not know where the board with 2 curved notches fit.  It dawned on me that the big curve is clearance for the rear end, and smaller one for muffler :)

 

..and I mentioned that long bent angle iron...  It goes ACROSS the car, to support one or both of the tin floor panels.  The wooden part does not fit "there", it will be under the tin flooring, somewhere nearby.  The square notches are for wood struts to support the tin.

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  Then I found this wooden seat back support, it simply does not go to this car. The top curve may look right, but the very ends don't curl down enough, and I tried it backwards too. 

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Below:  I need to know why the wood kit is mainly for the back half?  I went to the A pillar first.  These are suicide doors.  To estimate strength needed, you need to know the forces applied by the door and where the impact of slamming will be located:   Yellow is the striker, no force there, but normally the holes for the screws go into the wood. On this car there is a moving metal plate with threaded holes.  perfect! 

 

Red is the massive dovetail/door wedge pocket.  This takes some hard forces, as the wedges on doors, seat into the spring-loaded dovetails.  The bolting holes must be good, and they are. perfect!

 

Blue is the rubber bumper, some forces there, but it's down so low and well supported by that location near the big lower bracket on floor sill.  Perfect!

 

the wicked heavy solid bronze windshield posts and frame bolt into reinforced steel structure, perfect!

 

the dash bolts to steel, but also covers that exposed wood above the yellow arrow.  I checked each A pillar with hard jabs with an ice pick, top to bottoms, and wood is fine... yea..

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I think they were going to keep the front half of the main wood sills.  But I can't.  Look at the blue line below.  See the gap along the frame top, as it goes forward to the blue arrow? The sill is warped upwards at front,  You can see the yellow circle showing that the cowl front bracket hole is not lined up with frame bracket,  I am positive this had to be caused by the first owner having this body on just saw horses.  It sagged over the years, permanently.  The front horse was right at the yellow bracket.  It had to be.  I must replace the entire sills. It's not too hard, just 3 layers of 3/4" boards.

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Last pic..because I'm so tired I can't type.  Ok, most of you know that the wood framing was normally built first as a skeleton, then the sheet metal panels nailed to it, then sometimes in sections that needed welding, or at least solder.  There is no way I am going to cut the rear quarters apart. Nope, no freaking way.

 

The B pillar on a big, heavy doored, suicide setup MUST have wicked strong attachment to the lower sill, as well as tied in up top to the wood assembly that wraps around the back of seat.  That upper wrap around must be super strong as well.  The lower part of B post is screwed into the sill boards by two horizontal wood screws. The screws keep it tight for glue to dry, but it my mind, they also add something in case the glue joint loosens.  You can see the screw end tips highlighted with white chalk on their threads at the yellow arrows.

 

 

I'm not cutting a huge hole to get at those screws when I replace the B post,,or I hope not.  Black circles show two chalk circles where I could drill holes to install these two screws.  This should work, but only IF I can sneak the new B post into the upright channel in the inside of quarter panel, from top to bottom.  I hope I can.

 

Ok, I did prop up the sagging body up to do all these explorations.  Now it comes back to me, what the sill cover should look like with door open.  It must have a six? inch tall, slightly curved sheet metal panel, welded to the B post skin by the blue arrow facing left.  Then the front of this piece will weld to the A post skin.  There is evidence it was sliced off at both posts.  It is a panel, exactly like the old channeled Ford hot rods had to hide the frame when the door was open. No problem to make: it has a 3/4" 90 flange at top, to nail to the sill, which the nailed edge is then hidden by the aluminum carpet sill plates.  He had sourced mid 30s Big Buick coupe sill plates, for this car.  I found one Fleetwood small emblem, not sure if that goes on this type of car body somewhere, or if he would put it on the sill plate?...  The correct sill plate does say Fleetwood on it. I'll never find those, if he couldn't.. 

 

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 I am beat, I  just hit some key that made slanted letters :)  If you can add anything I have missed, or things you know I got wrong, let me know.  Thanks

 

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Today was the last day I can work on the car, all I wanted to do is see if I could tell how many things are missing or destroyed beyond repair.  So, I tried fitting some handmade floor skins that almost got into the dumpster by cleaning workers a couple years ago.  2 were for this car, 3rd is not.

 Here is the rear half of tin floor that sits a bit lower for the spare tire.  I can tell the metal shop was working from a rotted-away sample, because the dimple for the muffler, he left as an oval, not continuing to the wood wall.  He only copied what was left.  The big dimple is not enough radius either, but I am happy to have it for sure. The wooden rear tail beam is not installed in this pic:

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Luck continued as the front half was for this car also.  It is hand made as well:

 

 

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Here are the 36 Buick aluminum sill plates.  There is a raised rounded "dam" at top, then the nailed edge is covered in that lower spot by the carpet. The Fisher style is the same shapes as Fleetwood, but the décor is really different, and no name. It will have to do, I will never find the right ones.

 

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Then I found 2 wood floors, one fit over the transmission, the other was not for this car.  This one still had the gas pedal and shift metal plate cover thing...the wood is good enough to copy.

 

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You saw the book open... here is why:  We never found a complete top frame.  We looked for a whole assembly in vain...We had no idea this car must have been a parts car decades ago.  The only part still on the car as we later realized was still on the car out of sight, frozen in place, was  the main big bow in the middle.  Maybe a year later, I found the rusty rear one with the sagged wood bow.  A year later, I found a small shipping box with a note that said: "this is all I have for top parts, send me what you think it's worth".  There was only the articulated flat band linkages for one side of the roof, and a sawed off piece of the main  bow I already have.  The box was not big enough for anything else, so this is all I will ever find at the owners place.  It proves that the remains of the "swamp found conv shell never had any top parts either.

 

In this pic below:

The poorly chromed curved piece heading to the front is a removable part that you must take off to lower the top. I have both sides, but both are missing a chromed channel that holds the window seal rubber.  Then that other silver or chromed hoop-bar is one I found at a swapmeet when I was building the Nash top from scratch.  It must be foreign car as it is too narrow by 8".  I bolted it on to see if it had the right curves to just splice to make it wider someday.  You cannot find a buyer for a rough basket case if the top is missing, more so if it is an uncommon car like this.  What I have is far better than nothing.  The book had one side view looking at the inside of the drivers side of top irons. That was a good thing as I kept looking from the right side of car, as I put each part on, and could tell which piece overlaps the other mating part.

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I have always had a hard time with older GM parts books.  Some have very few illustrations, and those are only to help find a "group number" location in the book.  I got lucky to see a bunch of Cad and LaS tops.  The very bottom of page lists the sketches for the Series, and the first one is "350", which is code for 34 LaS .  So here I am reading under each sketch, but no 350.  Duh, I finally see "34168" which is the job number of a 34 LaS conv. geez. It is the one with the screwdriver pointing to below:

 

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I saw a few traces of a pale yellow paint near the top of the b post when doing the top irons.  I then found more in nooks on the cowl, then checked both doors on the inside wood where it also had yellow overspray from new.  The other body parts are random mixed color or rust,  That is more proof it was a parts car? ..and the last 2 owners tried to "buy it back together" ?

 

Here is a yellow 34...I don't know if I can deal with that, what do you think?

 

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Ok,last pic shows they sawed off the steering column during body swap.  They took out the pinch bolt thinking the tube and inner shaft would come right out of the box.  I can see gouge marks under the new paint, where they beat on it.  I looked it up; it is also a worm and roller style and is why these cars steer so smoothly and effortlessly .  I'll get one off a parts car. The tubes are fully chromed on these cars.

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I did find out a very tough part is broken off/missing today.  The door vent window frame is snapped off/gone on one door, and the gear drive vent glass frame is also gone.  I thought there was a glass frame in a box, but it is for some other car brand.  I am in a bad spot, as it is one-year only, and convertible-only.  The missing parts list is growing, even though I find more bits..

 

Ok, so car was in driveway lot where it beckons me away from my real job, and rain looked close, so I towed it by myself to the back end door on this long building.  I used a 62 Allis garden tractor, creeper gear, I am off and walking to steer tractor, then go steer the car tires, repeat, repeat. :)   My Sons project truck just lost it's bay, the LaS will stay there for a very long spell.  Maybe he will bring his into the only work bay when I finish that 34 Ford truck for a customer?  or not ...

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Started myself today pulling sheet metal off of my 32' Olds DCR. I will be doing mostly all new wood and making a majority of it. The rear pieces you called "dagger" shaped are called "kickups" just so you know and if you ever need to refer to them while talking to someone. My Olds is similar with the layered main sills but I will be using solid single boards for the sills and will just router out the areas they created by using two boards. The only place I will layer on a board is on the edges of the sill where the rocker panels get nailed on the bottom. Most of these cars have main sills around 1 1/2" to 1 7/8ths thick, made from two layered boards. The third board is usually layered on as that outside rocker doubler. A single sill routed will offer a stiffer body and is the way most reproduction wood companies make their sills. While not all my wood is bad, I will need to replace about 70-80% of it. I will be pulling all the body tin off as it is the best way to do it. Lots of nails to pull! Just made up a body dolly today from a old damaged Olds chassis so I could start on the wood work. Once I got it on the dolly, I just had to start doing something. Looking forward to following your restoration.

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21 hours ago, chistech said:

Most of these cars have main sills around 1 1/2" to 1 7/8ths thick, made from two layered boards. The third board is usually layered on as that outside rocker doubler.

This LaSalle has 3 layers from firewall back to the kick-ups.  I will copy those, as working with the original 3/4" thick "layer size" will be easier for me with my tools.

21 hours ago, chistech said:

I will be pulling all the body tin off as it is the best way to do it.

I missed the important part of your body jig when I looked at the pic... I was thinking, "I know he already has a restored chassis...he is going to regret not building the wood structure on the chassis frame"....and then I spotted you ARE on a cutdown original Olds frame. Good job. 

21 hours ago, chistech said:

Looking forward to following your restoration

I drooled over your estate sale find, when Lang was brokering it.  I have a weakness for early 30s Cabriolets/Convertible sedans.  I can't wait to see your wood construction, as I know it will help greatly on my car. 

 

You may have read on my Nash thread, that I recently found the battered remains of a 32 Olds 8 cyl DCR (Cabriolet) "doodlebug" in a wrecking yard.  The engine in the 34-36 LaSalle cars, were actually a direct copy of the 32 Olds 8, but with the LaSalle name cast onto the head.  LaS used these instead of their "expensive to make" 33 V8, to be able to drastically lower the price of LaS for 34, after the worst depression years of 32-33.  The other major change for LaS in 34, was the brand name which was officially "Cadillac-LaSalle" up to 33, was now called just LaSalle.

 

Thanks for your reply and interest.  I will "edit" this 5th post later with adding a picture of a LaSalle engine.

 

EDIT TO ADD PICS:

 

Here is the only motor I have so far.  It came from the rotted rolling chassis that I believe was what I call the "swamp found" convertible.  It has a smashed carb, stuck for keeps, I tried salvaging just 3 headbolts for the decent survivor 34 Black Sedan that had 3 wrong ones....I broke so many trying to get 3 good ones.

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Take a look inside the missing water jacket cover.  The cover is very complex, as it has diverter channels in it, to put more pump flow to certain areas.  The flow comes through that circled hole.  That one lost it's cover eons ago by looking at the rusted thread holes.   The covers are impossible to find without major rot holes.  I don't think there is a good one left at the estate.  I took one from another motor that was purchased for my car, for the survivor Silver 34 Coupe that needed one badly.

 

 

.. Here is the convertible chassis that must be from the Swamp car.  Note rotted off rear frame horn bent upwards.  It will donate the correct 9 leaf rear springs for mine, which has sedan 10 leaf now.

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We used this chassis's rear end, as the Coupe had a 54 Olds rear axle with very rare 3.08 ratio.  The old transmissions back then, had to have a higher gear ratio for 1st and reverse, to deal with the 4.10-4.80 axle ratios in most car brands.  They needed the 400+ gear to get a sweet rpm at 45 to 50 as that was the typical speed then.  If they did not use a higher 1st/rev, then the car would be too slow in those gears with 400+ ratio. 

 

The Coupe was dormant since the mid 60s I think.  It had wrong bumpers, no grille insert, completely broken spokes on the banjo steering wheel, etc.  I got it running, but when yard driving it, it was such a dog.  We were only getting them all to run, and be as complete as possible for resale, so I let it go that way.  I did not know it had the wrong rear end...why would I look at it???

 

Ok, auction day pickup for photo session in Bridgeport CT was due in one day remaining....then I spot something odd from under the front.  It has freaking wire wheels hiding behind poorly attached 34 hubcap rings and caps.  I look at the 60s style bias narrow whites...they are 15'' ..wth??    A mad dash to try to find 4 good 34 wheels to make it right.  I drive the 1 hour to the estate, found 4, and 4 decent 16" tires, run home to mount them...ok, no problem...but I took one front off, and the 34 wheel is different bolt pattern!  I pull a rear, same thing. Dang, I must bring the car back "as is" because Bridgeport company is coming.,

 

I tried to explain to the then 76 year old widow, what was up with the wheels, and her to tell the Auction house that the wheels are wrong, but look right with 16" covers that surprisingly fit good :)

 

Miscommunication on that fiasco,... caused the vintage-era mechanic at the Auction house to phone me to explain what the heck she said to him.  He said there are NOT wires on  this car.  I said you owe me a coffee if I'm right....go look from the underside of car...he did, and was shocked.  Later, the Company called the estate wanting the tires/wheels delivered.  The widow called me as I had them here.  I had explained to everyone that the front drums were wrong and that perhaps someone changed the rear axle shafts to fit these wires.

 

Car failed to meet reserve and she wanted it put back to stock,.. that's when I finally ID'd the Oldsmobile rear end, and then knew why is was such a dog :)  Must have gone like 'ell on the freeway though!  There was completely faded out old professional lettering on the doors right near the beltline...it says "SILVER BULLET".  Not kidding at all.   Someone had the car a very long time, and must have liked it a lot.

 

Couple more pics of what I dealt with, trying to find pieces to get all 3 survivor 34s back to running and complete as possible.  Rear bumper remains, only gave up one needed spacer for a bumper install.  Look at the smashed 34-35 grille there.. junk.

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and one gas tank, this one from the Coupe.  Sat with a full tank since mid 60s which turned to dried stuff that weighed a ton.  I found a "recently cleaned' one and threw this outside to "deodorize" it.  The flaking stuff drew moisture out of the air, and in 6 months it was rotted out when I needed the fill neck for the survivor 34 Black Sedan.  That Sedan got the last tank I had :( ...I have nothing good for mine now...unless I can get the sedan one cleaned out before it rots away.

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Edited by F&J
adding pics (see edit history)
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Update, change of focus;  My Son insists that I should "rest up" for when the weather breaks, to be able to extract the parts cars before the owner sends them to scrap (she planned that a year ago, and she might forget that I need them)

 

Son said stop all other obligations, and keep test fitting the parts I have here, to know which parts car should be retrieved first.  Smart thinking IMO. He said that me being too stressed out on multi-tasking here, is causing my memory issues, not age.

 

I posted earlier that I saved 3 black hand made sheetmetal floor sections, and TWO were correct.  There were a few more there a few years ago, all black primed, none marked to go to which car...

 

So, early this morning I went to my old computer to look for all the pics I took of the good convertible, to see what many of the other parts look like.  I found a pic I took, looking straight down at the rumble seat flooring, with seat bottom cushion removed.  I was really depressed to see there should ALSO be an upper floor skin ABOVE the lay-down spare tire well.  It looked like a large flat panel with a huge upward circular recess for the tire.

 

I was depressed, as it looked like a panel that I included with a late 40s convertible project car that was sold a long time ago...dang...

 

So I went to fit more parts, but saw that 3rd panel that I thought was a newer car tire well floor which has the spare tire "sit upright".  What a dummy:

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Well dummy, turn it over the RIGHT way!

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This pic above is looking down under the rumble seat cushion area, the notches were for the rear tire trunk lid hinges !  There are some simple wood braces that tie into that piece of wood that had the curved notches for the differential and muffler...easy to make.  Then the seat bottom sits on the wood brace bars.  Easy!

 

My Son is working crazy hours and apologized that he can't help with the parts cars.   The only friend that offered so far, and WANTS to help with that, is the 70 year old ex-Union Laborer who helped remove/load this convertible shell/chassis.  He may be 70, but his career was "pick up something heavy, and move it elsewhere".. He has a new truck and new car trailer, too.  We will bring both rigs.  We might not be able to pull the really bad one even with both winches going, so we will haul what we can. 

 

There are Three 4dr very, very rough cars. Best is the only non-34...a 35.  Then nearby is the 34 much worse, that may be tough to load.  Then a mashed/rotted/stripped 4dr at the other location...impossible to extract in a bad spot.  I may leave it for scrappers.

 

Then we plan to get the two engines on the floor doorway, a sedan front seat that might fit mine, the cowl/doors/rear shell of the rotted swamp convertible, and random sheetmetal.  I will offer to haul the gutted 4dr body up on sawhorses, so that big area can be rented out, which was her goal all along.  I don't want it, but it will help her out....  because...  She is also a dear friend, believe that or not.

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get everything you can if you dont use it someone else will,some times a rusted old hulk will supply a patch panel or 2 ,sometimes little stuff is what holds up restos,a couple years ago you gave me some advise i took to heart,you said do the woodwork on the moon before anything else,im doingt the sheetmetal and wood at this time,i know your much more talented than i and the wood work is just a skill you havent learned yet,thanks for the heads up and i know if i can do it you can do it ten times better     dave

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23 hours ago, JustDave said:

get everything you can

 

Weather forecast changed, My 70 year old friend, Joe called last night to see if we could arrange a barn haul for today...he is so excited about this barn stuff.  He has run a one man business of tearing down 1700'1800s barns to get the beams to saw into fancy wood for select niche buyers.  His truck is always rigged with Generator, compressor, chains saws, battery sawzall, drills etc

 

Anybody care to see some pics of todays adventure? (we need one more trip on Friday to finish this chapter)

 

Here are just a few samples.  This 1800s barn is very big, with a bigger part to the left that is not showing that can store 8 cars in bays.  However this barn is small, compared to the other one that is at another location......the MONSTER barn in same town .  The big one has 4 different levels that you can drive into from N, E, S, and West!  It has sublevels, too,,,like one my son found by following a path through junk.  More on that barn someday..

 

 

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Above pics, taken after moving tons of parts, the first thing we had to skid load were two 34 motors,  One looks like a motor he bought and had shipped in.  Crate was near it.  Then one was covered in mud splashes, then I peeked into the inside where the fuel pump was removed in recent times...it looks pretty promising in there.

 

That original paint yellow body is what I thought was a 34 body.  Now that I could actually see the dang thing in there, it is totally rust free sheetmetal,... I can't leave it for scrap.  It has the Fleetwood sill plates, but I'd need to make them longer if possible.. The JOB Number tag starts with 35-dash... so it is a 1935.  Same body as 34, same parts on the body, and in it.

 

Camera memory was acting up, so I took the next pic at my place.  We were whupped, so Joe left his trailer here.  We are starting at 10am to unload, I have not thought about how we will get the body off, without hurting it.,...yet.  I think so very clear in the AM with coffee..no joke

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Joe has always been an expert "picker", he found quite a few things laying under crushed fenders, and whatever, that I really needed badly.  If he was not sure if a part was LaSalle, he'd hold it up for a Yes or a No, from me... 

 

 

 

We had free reign of the place without the widow.  She still runs a very successful business at 78 years old!! , and I said we need 3-4 hours, so no need to stand here that long.  She dropped by after the office closed as we were just finishing.  Cool, as I told her there were two bare dashboards in the top level of her big barn, and can we come get them?  She said I'll be waiting there for you..:) 

 

...and when we got there she was there on the lawn waiting.  I got out of my truck COVERED in dirty dark barn dust from head to toe, pretending to be dusting myself off.... I said "NO hugs TODAY, Dahlin'..."  She said "I was hoping you wouldn't " LOL!  She then raised her hand for a high five hand slap instead.  I really like her a lot, a very rare bird these days.

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I had two dashes at my place.  I never knew convertible dash is WIDER than sedan?  I memorized the difference a few days ago.  These are both the wider one.  I need to test fit.  Sedan/coupe, uses a trim piece up top of these, like a persons top "lip" made of thin steel...maybe wood grained?  The convertible I have, has a new genuine mahogany wooden one...  I'll show it someday. I don't know if real wood is correct?

 

I will post a lot more pics of what is in the pile here.  The cars have parts thrown in, the trailers have lots, and the bed of my 66 has  some goodies.. Too tired tonight...

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For some reason I missed this when you started it.  Now you have two HUGE projects going at once!  That is what I call diving in.  The parts haul from the barn looks very promising.  And I really like the barn too.  Get everything organized and then finish the Nash.  Two big projects running simultaneously usually means neither gets finished :).

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17 minutes ago, alsancle said:

That is what I call diving in. 

I threw my TV away long time ago, so you "got to do something"... 

 

 

22 minutes ago, alsancle said:

The parts haul from the barn looks very promising.

Oh man, I am stoked..  today's priority parts, to see "if they actually existed there":  My broken off/missing vent window Frame for one door(one year only,convertible-only). One convertible dash board.  Mine was cut out of a parts car on one side with the old gas-axe years ago!  Drivers side running board in savable condition.  Diecast chromed body side mouldings for every panel except the two doors, Cadillac company info plate for the drivers cowl side behind the hood... and, Joe found things I did not even think of:  The steel corrugated gas filler neck with very unique threaded fittings, the center hood hinge stainless piece, and...he also found a box not near other LaSalle stuff, it was all Las, horns (I had already), but a MINT aircleaner with perfect painted lettering, then I spotted under that, the missing chromed door window rubber seal retainer that goes on those chromed pieces on my top. I took extensive pics of those on the maroon convert years ago, as I knew they were impossible to purchase.  I think they got lost at the platers.  I can make the other side now. ......... more pics in a day or so

 

We found suitable items for all of those today   Here below, you can see the top of one of the conv vent assemblies from the swamp conv...I found both...R and L side.

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One part I found under piles of trash that Joe was moving behind the rotted sedan.... 4 front bumper braces, I needed one....and...the impossible to ever find, "water jacket plate' for the engine.  I had stolen the one from the motor above as one of her survivor cars had one that can't be fixed..

 

24 minutes ago, alsancle said:

Get everything organized and then finish the Nash.

That is the plan.  That is why I wanted the LaSalle at the very end of the 90 foot long building...out of sight, out of mind, but not stored in our storage barn where I'd never do anything to it. The LaSalle is the queen of my fleet as far as potential value, and I really am obsessed with how they run, sound, feel, steer, but...the Nash is still my all time favorite early car.  Always will be.

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The last LaSalle coming home Friday, is not a 35 like I assumed.  I simply never looked at it because I was always scrounging wheels and bumper parts for 34's.  34 is unique in those parts as well as others.

 

LaSalle from 34 to 36 are based on the Olds straight 8, often put in style "group".  The 35 is much closer to a 34, mostly bumper and wheel change..if sedan/coupe,...but if convertible, then the windshield framing is also different, as well as vent glass frames and door glass frames.  (nothing's easy :(

 

The 36 is quite different: hood vent-I-ports are gone, split windshield added, grille shell change, and slight grille change, bustle back trunk, new body shell/side glass size, etc.  She ended up with two more empty bays from our efforts today, but as they are two cars deep, that is 4 car spots, or two very long boat/trailers.

 

  I hope the 36 has a driveshaft, and one running board stainless strip molding.  Those are both tough to find at the estate for unknown reason.  I doubt I need anything else from it at all, but she will gain one more rental bay.

 

1936-LaSalle-5-Passenger-Touring-Sedan.jpg.55e085ec717832ac0800f35c9bccb7dc.jpg

 

 

EDIT:  I just looked in the Clark/Kimes big book.  The yellow body....something is wrong with the body tag number that is for a 35 only.  The book says the actual serial number for a 35 is 22.  My mint cassis is 21, which is a 34 only number.  I still think my frame came from the zero rot yellow body, so someone changed the body tag.

 

Look at the ancient, faded off, swap meet red paint info on the trunk lid.  Or was it a junkyard ID ??? In person, it says 1934 LaSalle.

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It's 7:30 AM on a bright sunny day, and Joe will be here at 10 to start the nightmare of unloading.   It's not easy loading that bare sedan body shell without tearing the bottom up, or the rotted sedan with no rear brake drums/wheels.  We chose Joe's 18 foot trailer with 4500 lb winch for the bare body and two engines, and my 16 foot trailer has an antique but powerful Ramsey 8000 lb with 120 feet of 3/8 cable, for the rotted sedan....

 

Here are a few more pics from yesterday:

 

The two rear quarters of the swamp find 3rd convertible, two rear RR fenders, and the original extra-long  muffler standing up.  That muffler is why these cars were so silent..  You can see on the deck floor; the odd gas filler neck with modern looking corrugated flex joint, and the brace I needed that supports the two headlights that hides in the grille shell which I needed.

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..and the dilapidated sedan....very odd to see it had a central mounted 3rd bumper bullet on each of it's Bi-Plane bumpers.  I am certain these were put on when new....very odd for sure. 

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I might be able to use the remaining two 34-only front wheels for mine...if so, I now have 3...  The spare wheel/tire laying on the deck I had taken from my car in case we needed it at the barn.  It is 35 LaSalle...different than 34

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here is the dash in that car,  It is complete.  I only need the upper left knob for the push button starter switch.  It also is the first and only standard 3 spoke black steering wheel that I ever saw. The 3 survivor LaSalles that the estate has, or had, have optional banjo wheels, as did my convertible.  I also found a complete column/box, and 3 spoke wheel, yesterday in the pile. You can see the surface rusted trim piece at the top of dash.  All 34 LaSalles came new with black dashboards, regardless of outer body colors..

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I may take pics today of what we are doing to unload...  I think I will have to use our early 50s Oliver OC3 tracked crawler-loader to lift the engines out of Joe's trailer.... My Son is quite skilled, compared to I, with that crawler, but he works long hours.

 

.

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3 hours ago, alsancle said:

Frank, you seem to have corned the market on 34 Lasalles.

 

3 hours ago, alsancle said:

34 is my favorite GM year, Caddy, Chevy, Pontiac too.

I did pick up a small box of parts to save them from the scrappers..  I have Three 1933 Chevy hubcaps in case you want to start building one from a meager start :) well only the 33 chevy roof is similar to the coupe in your pic...

 

 

Today's unloading took exactly the same 4 hours.  I insisted that the yellow body not be torn up when getting it out of the barn, or onto the trailer, and safe unloading is so much harder. 

 

We have the yellow body now sitting on cribbing, right near the front side of my shop.  Joe had a new premium tarp in his truck for covering his salvage barn beams. He is trying to keep HIS baby nice and dry,  Yesterday as we talked about saving the yellow one from scrap, he asked if I would sell just this yellow shell to him, I said no, it's yours.  He will have 3 solid days invested after we finish the 3 trips, and two trips he provided a second truck and trailer....and won't even take gas money in return,  He said it must be worth a heck of a lot more if I sold it on the net, but let's face it, it is worthless to most car people.  I had told him the very few small parts that I must take for mine, but he can have second best parts from the stash.

 

The wood sills are 100% solid, but sagged from 2 owners having it on stands.  It needs to be put on a frame with threaded rod at each mount, then tighten gradually over much time.. It might come back to shape.  Top wood is fine, door wood joints are loose, a-b-c pillar posts unknown yet. Doors out of whack also from sagging sills, and maybe loose screws in some hinges.. Metal floorpans are mint rustfree, no dents..

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This morning, he asked that if I can end up with a good chassis he wants to buy it.  I figured the rotted sedan one is junk, and I found out the 36 that is coming, is fisher body, and possibly might not have the correct frame body mount points.  I undid the straps holding the rotted one together for the trip home, and the rear fenders and part of quarters nearly fell off..  I never knew this car sat on 4 wheel dollies, as you simply could not see past piles of sheet metal parts.  This dolly moved/stuck when loading at barn.  Glad we had the dozer to yank it off the trailer.

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Now I could look at places where these frames rot out first; the part in front of the rear shackles.  It is surface rusted pretty good but not thin.

 

See the muffler peeking out?  I swear that one is even longer than the one I showed standing up in the trailer..It likely is rusted, and hanging down in the front of it, was an exhaust cut out valve and cable.  Odd ..

 

This car junk car body is going to be cut up very soon by him, as he offered to do it,... as very little outer sheet metal is worth saving.  The motor is stuck at pistons, but crank has a bit of play due to bearing clearances.

 

The car transmission looked exactly placed like this when we looked in at the barn.  It is a small series GM 5 bolt selector trans.  It is impossible for most people to make a shifter for these. as it has bizarre requirements.  I pulled it up to ID it. It must be 40s Olds (open drive), before they went to V8 in 49.  Why it was thrown there, who knows.

DSCN0905.thumb.JPG.dbbdeca8d8a1a255f31439f08e9777d8.JPG 

 

Found more goodies in this unloading, but too tired/busy to take pics today, or explain right now.

 

 

 

 

 

There is a good chance there is enough good stuff to build a complete sedan.  I have zero interest in doing that, but I may be able to help if Joe is serious.

 

Joe found a used one of the wood X thing I posted, but here is that prior pic again.  Can it be LaSalle? as now we have two,,,I did not see it today, maybe at barn still, but will try fitting it again to see if it can fit.  This one I can't get fitting right..It can't be for this area, but where? or not LaSalle?

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On ‎5‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 5:25 PM, GARY F said:

I really enjoy following your post. keep up the pictures.

Here is today's adventure....only two pics on site for the barn find lovers.  As mentioned my camera has memory issues.  I saved spare memory there, for pics of parts to ID on the "what is it" forum.

 

I will take lots more pics of the mountain of parts that have not been unloaded at all yet.  Joe and I are beat up good, and he is not even coming here tomorrow to unload.  If it is going to rain, I'll drop my trailer where is, to put my truck and it's load in the bed, in my storage barn.

 

21 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

You can get new doorsills - www.doorsills.com = they should have the templates in stock and ..... just order them well in advance of need (a good year to be safe as they do very quality work and are backlogged as a result).

 

thanks, John... I needed that info for sure. By the way, I believe I phoned you many years ago about my Nash?  If it was you who ended up with the Bool estate 32 Nash 1073 Convertible sedan?  or is my memory wrong.... :)

 

AND, as of late today.... I only need ONE... I found the original single one from the Swamp convertible today, as we moved every last crumb from the other two bays.  It survived in good condition, under a massive tossed-in pile of battered LaS sheetmetal..laying on the wood floor.

 

Here we go,  I took this pic to show where the 36 sedan was.  We  cut the lock hasp as the keys are still missing to every door in this L shaped barn.  This is "middle area" of the longer part of the L, and where we got the rotted sedan and yellow shell, is to your right in foreground.

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If you look at above pic... see the "last" window to the farthest right edge of pic?  That is one of the two windows of twin side-by-side rotted roll-up door coming in from the side around the corner.  My conv shell sat in that bay.  That bay is walled off from the other roll-up bay, where a poor 48 Ply conv sat until we hauled it out some years ago.

 

The 36 shown, is in a double wide two bay, dirt floor. The empty bay showing, to it's right, had a navy blue 47 Chevy pickup, missing engine/trans, and two rusty bedsides and fenders tossed on the bare rear frame.  There was a used, dirty Chevy engine with 3 speed column shit trans blocking it in.  Oh, I forgot, that truck was one of the "famous" Old Navy clothing store display trucks! More on what happened to it someday...pretty cool story for you barn find lovers...no, very cool.  :)

 

 

 

Out of all of the many cars in this "collection" right from day one 4 years ago, this is the ONLY one ever parked "nose-in"/

 

 

Notice the nice lawn.  That, combined with 4 flats and both left side drums frozen solid made this car almost impossible to retrieve with a car trailer, without tearing up the lawn badly.  A tilt back wrecker could have grabbed it easily, and been able to haul the car away backwards.  You cannot haul a car like this with very heavy engine, backwards on a car trailer.  You can't get to 40 mph without uncontrollable and sudden fishtailing. So, our task was to be able to use Joes truck without his trailer, to drag the car bout and turn it to point to where I took this pic...and then I could use my big winch to haul it on my trailer with nose pointing ahead.

 

Joe found out that his Dodge electric shift 4 wheel drive would not go into 4-low, so he went 4-high.

 

So we had to scrounge up tires, and free the drums.  We could not "get to" the left side without dragging it out barely enough to do the left side chores.

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  Here is Joe installing a 40-48 Ford wheel after we figured out how to free up the stuck brakes,  It was a bitch.  We used my bolt cutters to snip off the locator pin on the drum, to be able to use the Ford wheel which has no holes for locator pin. I already knew that Ford pattern is same as LaS, but the center hub hole is too small, but we made to work by tightening the lug "bolts" evenly, to make it stable enough ven though the wheel is not contacting the drum correctly.

 

 

The LF drum was far worse to get freed up. but I finally figured it out.  I took the outer wheel bearing out, then took off the big nut on the upper back side of backing plate: that is the "anchor" for the shoes, and also took the 2 wheel cylinders bolts off.  Then we pried the whole deal off, with both shoes still stuck to the drum...what a great relief.

 

More to come tomorrow...I am just too tired to post, or go take pics of the two trailers and what is in my truck bed..

.

 

 

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54 minutes ago, r1lark said:

I'm really enjoying this thread! You are a much braver man than I to take all this on.

 

a person needs the desire, that's all.  After working on this estates 3 survivor type 34 LaSalles, and lot-driving them, seeing how they act, sound and feel.... I got the 34 LaSalle bug in a intense way.  I cannot afford a really nice one good enough to use, and I honestly like/prefer working them back into usable condition.  It's what I do as a 9 to 5, and as a hobby. I am single, and have no significant other, so I live my new life since turning 50, in total control..  I do what I need to do to be happy, I guess.

 

I decided a few years ago...no more cars for me, I have enough to work on.  "unless" it was really something special..

 

Once you get involved in a very large estate that was of a guy who was a hard core flipper of many mixed makes and ages of cars, as well as an obsessed car buff, .......over much time of sorting through "his life", you will eventually "know" which marque and year was his weakness....and then wonder why it was those cars...  His weakness was 34 LaSalles and V12 Lincolns.  I never had to work on his two V12s.  One was a new resto on a 42 Lincoln Continental conv, the other, an older resto 40 Zephyr conv.  The 42 was sold by Dragone before I got involved, and the 40 needed no work to be at least sellable.  We did have to start it before it went to it's second-try auction house in Maine, and I just had no feelings for the brand.

 

This guy tried 36-37 Cords, open and closed.  Joe toured the barns with him over 25 years ago, and said this week, "his Beverly was right over there".  I overheard the owner at a swap many years ago, ..when somebody asked about his Cords... he growled angrily : "They're all gone....NEVER AGAIN"

 

Also, once you are enthused about whatever you realize makes you happy, you MAKE time...no matter what. Some never realize what gives underlying happiness...I am fortunate.

 

I did look at the weather forecast when I made todays post.  It said big rain due, so I did unhook the loaded trailer and put my truck inside. Then covered things left outside, etc.  Then sat with a coffee in my tiny enclosed front porch.  I do my best unwinding there as well as clearing my head, thinking, planning, resting, etc.  I got a second wind and decided to go out in total darkness to show the steering wheel in the 36. I was shocked today when I saw it had a optional Banjo wheel.  I need some hub parts....but noticed they won't be the same as 34.  The 36 went to a light switch on the dash, as this one lacks the two deco barrel shaped switch knobs on the 34s. Bummer.....but the wheel itself looks mint and should fit mine.  I'll check the parts book

 

But as we dug deeper into the corners of Wednesdays two bays, I totally missed some LaS parts, one is a chrome column tube and the base of the banjo hub in super nice shape.  This 36 has a much thinner painted column, and a different base which is painted.  (cost cutting for 36)

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Glad I went to take this above pic for the readers tonight....I spotted the fact that the carb was open to rain because we took the loose air-cleaner off for the trip.  But I had looked from drivers side and I spotted strange circles on the top side of the block... So as it was dark, I took pics to see what the heck it was.  :)

 

Loaded the pics, and the block design was changed!  It lost the earlier steel water jacket cover, now casted over with core plugs.....a  wrong move for owners that let it ice freeze.  A steel cover will bow out in a hard freeze, this "improved" block is cracked all the way across the top of that bulge and it's been welded with Ni-rod or brazed.  (this motor is also stuck)

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1 hour ago, r1lark said:

find all the time to do all this work, plus make these long detailed posts!

 

Build treads are what drives me so much harder, to accomplish more.  It sure does take time to do the postings and take pics, but I don't have a TV  :) 

 

.

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Todays update, rain held off, so I unloaded sheet metal from Joes trailer even though he said he'd be back Monday.  I wanted to spread it out to see what he loaded as I worked on the stuck brakes.

 

Before I forget, I am done with the haul.  It is over, thank goodness.  Close a long running book for me.

 

I have always said for 4  years, that this last car was a 35...it is!   I will check the Job number when it stops raining, but I am sure it is 35

 

 I need to write down/record accurate condition of each big part, there is too much to recall later; RT vs Left, F vs rear,

 

Here are some pics I took today :

dscn0919.thumb.jpg.d405432ab4025054925ec26a64979b5b.jpg

 

^^^^ being that we ended up with plenty of room on Joes trailer, I took every rotted item, easier to assess at home as to scrap or not.  Here is a good example; a rotted sedan trunk lid, but it has both handles and latches.  Maybe the rumble lid uses this latch, too.  Save them, then scrap the tin.

 

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^^^ Small pile at front of our 3rd outbuilding is stuff that I had to remove from the first rotted sedan to be able to drag it off the trailer. The rotted 34 is furthest back near hemlocks.  The 35 is still on the trailer. 

 

The black tarp is the yellow 34 shell.    (Edit/adding: See the way we have it supported only at the B pillar locations on the main sills...like a see-saw?  That is the very start of correcting the sag from decades of two owners storing it on blocks or horses, rather than a chassis) 

 

The green tarp is my best chance for a motor, not stuck, and he had it shipped in from somewhere,  Then it is piled up with seat cushions on top.  I had to put that engine here. Makes no sense to get it in my work area if it turns out to be cracked or whatever.  I'd have to get the bucket crawler on the opposite side of this building to lift up the back end of the customers 34 Ford 1.5 ton, then drag it somewhere out of the way, then go back to get the engine, get in in the shop and put the Ford back in.

 

I plan to do some simple tests right there, and fire it up.  A week or two from now.  This stuff cannot be seen driving past my house heading South, and my neighbor to the right can't see it.  Coming North, you barely get a tiny glimpse of the two tarps, not the cars, and you almost need to stop your car in one small spot to see anything.  The neighbor on left cannot see anything except for the 34 rotted sedan, and only from their extreme back yard. So, I have time to sort without rush.

 

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^^^ Arrow points to a non-LaS column.

 

The Swamp find 34 convertible cowl....  This swamp car was medium blue when new.  See the remains of that upper floor pan inside the cowl that I showed a repro of?  I took that rotted part back home, not knowing/seeing it has two easy to make braces that are not on the repro. Glad I saved it. Some 35 wheels.  The fender is 35 as it does not have the round tube for the 34 only shock absorber bumpers,  It must be from the 35, as that car is missing it, but not the right front. I forgot to get a pic of the running boards below that arrow.  I only knew of one rusty one, until this last two hauls.  They were buried.  Hard to come by it seems.  I think I have two super long stainless trim strips that can be straightened, and one other very bad.  A very hard to find part.

 

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^^^^^^ Not shown in pic,  a nice hood I brought into the shop last night for Joes, and a nice wood front seat frame with tracks.  In this pic, is the hood that was in front of the 35. I think that grille support nose piece came from that spot too. The yellow fender is definitely from the yellow shell, and flip it over, and I know it came from the desert.  The other fender will be it's mate, if Joe builds a LaSalle.  Both came from the huge pile in the 4 bay "el" we hauled the 34 and 34 shell from on Wed.  Also a column/wheel I grabbed for it's nice small 3 spoke that is going on my Nash.  Keiser31 I'd it as 32 Hupp., I had thought it was 33 Chevy Standard. Junk door is only saved  for latch parts, etc

 

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^^^ the remaining front fender on the 35. Those chevrons are different on 34.  The 34 has a thin raised chrome outline, then recessed area is red paint.  Both are hard to find.  The chromed "whiskers" as they are called now are impossible to find unbroken, as they are potmetal.  One is missing to the right, and it is different as it has the same potmetal face, but has a sheet metal flange that fits between the fender and grille support nose piece.

 

Note the bumper hole is now shaped for a conventional bracket to go through.  I bet you can interchange these fenders with 34 by just changing the bumper hole.  I did not look to see if this fender is rotted yet, but I think it is straight.

 

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^^^ Wednesdays parts; 2 spare rumble lids, one is a lot better than other. Swamp quarters, and the yellow sedans nose piece for grille, hit at lower end.   Not sure if we need it for Joe, I have more. 

 

I am really beat still.  Joe is too, as he unexpectedly showed up an hour after I unloaded his trailer.  I went shopping at noon for high calorie food to recharge myself.  I missed a lot of meals lately, and don't have any body fat to keep me going while missing meals.

.

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1 hour ago, F&J said:

I am really beat still.  Joe is too, as he unexpectedly showed up an hour after I unloaded his trailer.  I went shopping at noon for high calorie food to recharge myself.  I missed a lot of meals lately, and don't have any body fat to keep me going while missing meals.

.

 

Funny how highly productive people tend to be skinnier.

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When I was asked on this thread on how I can handle it all...  I said you need the passion, which gives the drive to try.

 

Some of us start with the impossible project car because we lack funds for a good one, or we just can't bear to see one get parted out and lost forever.....

 

I am not the only one to try to save a battered old LaSalle convertible:

 

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When we drag one home in boxes full of tattered rusty parts, we wonder what it must have been like to see the original sales ads and press photographs that attracted buyers... in those really bad years of the Depression.  We know how much effort the car companies spent on the rapid yearly increase of styling and technology from 32-35 to sway the few buyers from choosing the competitions car.  We know those rapid incredible improvements never would have occurred in "easy times".

 

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The passion and drive starts to increase, when looking at the ads and photos..

 

 

Then we wonder who the people were, who could afford a large snazzy car in those years... and look for old photos of them, or their car after purchase...

 

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The drive only increases further when seeing a few of these owners photos...

 

and as Archie and Edith once sang, "Gee our old LaSalle ran great, those were the days", ....we try to go back..

 

I can't wait...  :)

 

.

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2 minutes ago, BillP said:

Harley Earl's inspiration for those LaSalle trim strips:

 

Wow, thanks for that definite association...it just has to be related....but do you know which car came first?

 

.

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23 hours ago, BillP said:

The Miller Front Drive, 1927 or so.

Duh, I feel like an idiot... again...

I am so overwhelmed with the chaos of the LaSalle retrieval, that the "Harley Earl" when right over my head, when I foolishly asked which came first .

 

A bizarre post today: 

As you all know by now, I worked on and off at the Estate for 4 years.  She original said she had a 5 year plan of complete dispersal of this mountain of cars, project and parts cars, and literally tons of mixed make parts acquired over a 50+ year term.  It has been quite stressful at times.  I hung in there the best I could for two reasons; one is I hate to see things go to scrap that the hobby needs, or will need.  I hate to see an estate project car leave with missing parts that might be somewhere buried in the two barns at two different homes.  Two, is that I simply was smitten by these 34 LaSalles, not the "status", but rather how excellent the entire décor and mechanical design, and superb roadability they possess.  I couldn't afford one of the three decent survivors the estate had, but by the first few months of putting project cars back together, and hunting for their parts, I started seeing odd things like a freshly rewooded rumble lid, a set of 4 fenders, sandblasted, etc.  a few months later, I opened the single walled off bay to discover a second 34 convertible shell.  We planned on putting that one loosely together just to flip it cheap, but as years went by, I was forced to use most of the parts that were apparently desitined for this car, to make the other 3 as best as we could for maximum salability.

 

At some point, we realized the cost of assembling an incomplete car, is just plain "getting upside down", yet the car needed to be saved from parting it out when the others were sold.  I put it on my bucket list.  I never ever had a bucket list in my life, as to cars.

 

Last Friday at 4:45 PM pulling into my lot with both trucks, was the final step in my involvement with saving these last rough cars from doom.  And... my friend Joe, is signing a contract this week to finish the last complete cleaning of that barn, in exchange for it's last cache of mixed make parts.  It was always her plan to rent storage spaces, and not burden her heirs with her husbands mess.

 

I can know she will be thrilled with his cleanup there, and I assume, from knowing her quite well now, that HE will be the guy to eventually be trusted to have the huge task of the big barn clean-out and sales of parts.  So, I have finally reached retirement!  I will be on-call to help to ID any mixed make parts that I can, free of charge, to help both parties as well as getting these things saved for our antique car hobby.

 

Now comes my task of playing Rubics Cube with my two buildings to get the huge LaSalle mess sorted and under a roof.  I have all summer, and I will be adding the final new garage door opening on the rear of my biggest shop.  Then I get access to two more bumper-to-bumper car storage spaces.  My son figured that out, not I.  I do have new doors I bought at an auction, so all I need is time. We also have an unoccupied 25 foot long car storage spot in the smaller barn, that I keep as emergency use only.  That gives 3 more available car spots in the 2 buildings.

 

On with my new life, that starts today!... :) ...I will do a 2 hour repair on a car part left here by a customer last week, then finish the 34 Ford truck work that needs perhaps 20 hours, then...playtime  :)

 

I will try to "test-fire up" the only possible good candidate LaSalle engine this week when it stops raining, then get the Ford gone.

 

.

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Update on 3 things today:   I was walking back to the shop and for some reason, I stooped down in front of the yellow 4 door shell to see if our blocking under the B post areas, had even a slight effect on the warped sills yet. Yikes, they previously were drooping at least 1.5"? before, after sitting so long on improper blocking.  Well, it not only went back up that much, but went 1/2" too far!  So I put a 1/4" wall square tubing beam under the extreme front at firewall, used a vintage hyd bumper jack to recorrect.  It lifted right off the B post blocks and the bow still was 1/4" overcorrection!   So, for now, I left the front up with the B's almost touching the mid blocking. 

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^^ that square tube beam is not flexed, that is camera distortion.

 

Then I surveyed which frame is the easiest to use for a body jig like Christech did with his 32 olds rewood job.

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I suspected the 35 is different as it is Fisher.  It is way different body mounting positions.  The rotted 34 Fleetwood, I already decided it must stay complete, to use that car as a blueprint for knowing how to put a car back together, brackets, components, wiring, dash etc.

 

So my only choice is the swamp chassis, but the rearmost frame tips are damaged. There are two rear body mounts right on those tips, so I must repair them.  No sense chancing that the end of body will be properly supported without those two.  I will fix them before I put the yellow body on. 

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Then, as that chassis has no rear axle, and I want to remove all front suspension for weight reduction, I stumbled across a special duty small, narrow trailer we have, that has very short but wide tires that are rated like 2000 lbs each.  it had to be construction doo dad or whatever.  I will strip the 34 frame down, pick the entire frame up with the crawler, then slide that flat bed trailer under it.  Add a simple hitch ball socket to the front, and tow it with the garden tractor.  Easy  :blink:

 

I have air compressor at that end of shop, so I will use impact gun, and sawzall tomorrow.  Piece of cake.  I will need help getting the yellow body on, but I will wait for visitors.. he, he  (hey buddy, ol pal....are you busy?  :) )

 

Surprise 2:  I was looking at the motors.. I spotted a scraped off spot on the rotted 34's motor.  I had been looking in the wrong spot before.  So I went to the engine that came out of the swamp car chassis....geez it's number looked familiar....duh, it matches my convertible body number!  That is NOT the chassis/or engine from the swamp body...it's from my car!  Geez, I am surprised my car was not scrapped by whomever parted out some of it.

 

Super surprise #3 :  I looked at the JOB Number tag on the yellow shell again...duh, it can't have been switched from a 35 long ago, as it says Cadillac motors at top, and bottom says FLEETWOOD!  It is a 35- prefix for 1935, and the suffix is 4 door sedan.  WTH?  34 was Fleetwood exclusively, and 35 was Fisher exclusively.  So, this has to be a super, super late 34 that somehow shipped from the factory as a 1935?  The rivets are totally unmolested.  How can this be?  BTW, Fleetwood tags are always on the left SIDE of cowl, seen when the hood side is lifted.  Fisher tags on ALL GM's from at least 20s to 50s are on the right side upper face of firewall, exactly the way I have on both cars.  This is really odd.

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A quick update at 11AM.. I am letting some oil soak in the only good motor, so I will share:

 

First thing early this morning, I found a potentially extremely serious thing that is related to this whole LaS purchase..  I felt a mild steady sting like a 10 minute old bee sting on my right upper inner arm.  I never had a tick bite that stings till last spring..It was a &^% TICK.  These are wicked bad to live beings, people & animals.  It's not only Lyme disease of which I read of 3 mutations of Lyme, but there are other tick borne diseases as I foun d out last spring.  I post this only as a reminder to we who venture in tall grass, weeds, brush.

 

I did have my first true Lyme 6 years ago, I never get the red bullseye.  That one caused my knee to swell up like I had bumped it badly, so I paid no mind.  It went away next day, but now the same side ankle blew up a LOT.  I RAN to the ER thinking I must have a clot, and wooried about Heart attack like took my Dad in 1980.  The head male nurse that does the quick look as you arrive, geeesus...he knew my vintage daily driver very well. :)   He said calm down, it's the WRONG side of your body for heart issue

 

Ok, they send out bloodwork, you wait ten freaking days, for the answer...but they don't tell you that there is a 80% chance of a "false negative"...how special.  But I read that a tissue sample gives a better test, but Insurance lobby got together to deny that test, and don't cover it.  Keep reading..I have a point...

 

last spring I got a tick bite stuck between two toes, I awoke to a burning itching that was unbearable. A tick.... I knew I got the tick the late afternoon before, so less that 12 hours?  Do not believe the fake news that you are not at risk under 24 hours of attachment, both of mine were 12-ish.  They bite in quick, so a normal shower won't rid them every time, if you can't see that spot.  Last spring I did not go to have the tick tested on my dime at UConn, as the results take over a week..  Nor go to a doctor, as it takes 2 weeks to have it possibly show in bloodtests...they won't do a test till 2 weeks...so I just went on with life.  6 days later one leg ached badly,, but at my age and rough work, I paid no mind.  The the other the next day, by day 3 I could barely lift my legs, day 5 my arms let go, and I was nearly paraplegic...The thing is that it messed up my reasoning, and I never thought it was more than a new flue bug!  It went away at 7 days.,

 

My point is I have 6 days to stop the LaS work to finish the customer 34 Ford LOL..

 

Fun time today... lets rock:

First thing is to jack the motor up, block it good, get at the drain plug to see any first drip of water? Nope, let a bit of oil out...clean but definitely ran a few miles on that oil.  See the white paper towel with "clean" stain on the wood near the drain plug.

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Blow dirt out of spark plug recesses. Pull plugs for color, you look for oil on one or more for a tired engine.  Mint! Notice the "recent/modern" wire harness with crimp connectors...that means it came from a potentially recently running car. Junkyard markings on different locations, older gray ones say 35, the newer yellow says 34 which it is, with the one year removable water jacket cover.

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Use a small mirror to get bright sun down the plug holes...all looks mint and clean except #3 had a spider web that had a few bug wing flakes..see the tip of forceps in pic. 

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Now get a squirt bottle to use ATF/Acetone mix, and aim at angle to get it into the piston bore which is hidden.  Now get the starter to work, and test spin.  I noticed quickly that the plastic sheeting and white towel was getting dragged by gears. OOps.  See the two yellow pencils stuck in holes?  I know these Gm  transmissions quite well, and there are two vertical detent ball springs that stick up as you pull the top cover. The cover was pulled before it was freighted to the last owner...so I got a stick magnet to fis for the spring in the oil, nope, but one BOLT from the cover.

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I did install the shift cover to keep the 1/r sliding gear from clashing when running.

 

Now is time to spin mit for compression test. Don't need a gauge yet, as any dormany motor might be low on some if valve or seats are light rust...We got comp on all 8...... super!  It will run today for sure.  I will grab the dist and wires from the 35, but not it's carb as the 35 went to a 4 bolt :(

 

I'll fire it without a carb, then if it excites me, I will scrounge a real carb to let it run/idle.  I will let you know if it was junked with a problem...or if it is sweet. I bet the latter !

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Update on motor...Pic taken 2:20 Pm ...what do you see?  I have no way to do a video....yet..

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That is steam, from moisture in the block.  i'll spare the typing, but it took but a few moments after sputtering, to dial it in to run like silk. It had several unloosened head bolts probably when it was lifted...but they broke TWO.  Joe showed up 10 minutes before I touched it off, and after shutdown, he said "all you got left is pull the head to get the broken ones out"  No way, the LaSalles I've worked on, most. not all, have frozen bolts, and weakened at the shanks by water exposure.  I will figure a way without pulling the head...

 

Found a new carb that is a multifit replacement Carter with TWO bolt patterns...the 3 for 1934 and 4 for 35.  Tipped it upside down to blow in the inlet to tell if the needle could shut, it did. Right side up, and air goes in...perfect, no need to go further for now. Accel pump is still good. !!

 

 

Next step is to run a radiator and find a useable water distribution/jacket plate.  The one I found on the barn floor has pinholes, and the one on rotted 34 has a sketchy looking spot like a repair?  I will remove it today.

 

Hey, Joe got a tick bite the first trip on Wed.  He is not concerned like I am.  He took a hot shower as soon as he got home, but it had already dug in.  He found it that evening when it was itching!  Evil creatures!  I hope he does not get sick with the task of barn cleaning starting tomorrow and taking two weeks he guesses.

 

I have a lot of stuff here for fixing anything.  I never need to go to a store to start a barn car.  Proof:  Joe came over to borrow gasket punches to make a new diaphragm for his long setting 32 Dodge pickup....and said he lost one of the hair like micro coil springs for the valves in it.  I said "hang on, I just saw a small pump like that, when looking for a coil"  He, He, we were both surprised:

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Check out this radiator and support...It is unrestored western desert, original paint!...from the yellow sedan.  I was missing one till the haul.  It holds up the entire nose, the 4 studs at bottom are for the massive front fender bracket(s) on each side.  There is only one mounting point to the chassis...so there is no stress to the sheetmetal if the chassis flexes, right at bottom center...a huge threaded stud.

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I'm busy, so more later when I get the cooling system up and running...I also have a loose exhaust pipe, and will use that long quiet muffler..

 

.

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Quit at 7Pm, here is where I am:

 

I found the head pipe, but it's flat flange needs replacing...no time for that to do it nicely, so I wrapped the tapered bad spot with bendable aluminum strips I use for backing up thin metal.  I built the bad spot up, then ground it.  See the copper/asbestos gaskets?  Those were given to me by my 70+yr old friend Kenny, who has a huge collection of cars/trucks, mostly Dodge from the "black era" of later teens to 1927 ish.  He still has the 23 Dodge sedan his grandfather bought new,  Grandpa cut the back off during WW2 for working on the farm, but like a typical Connecticut yankee, he saved the back end indoors,  Kenny sen t the car out 45 years ago to be restored to stock with that rear body back on.

 

The gaskets were for my 1920 Reo which was such a accessorized car when new, it went to Skip who owns French Lake Auto Parts in Mn.  It was on display there and featured in Hemmings, and Skip also used it's pic in F.Lake ads in Hemmings...it is somewhere else now.  I needed a round gasket to fit up in the LaS manifold, so I cut one up, fits nice and the exhaust gasses don't mind going through an oval hole. LOL.

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Check out the new exhaust, so I can listen for marbles in the engine:  The pipe even still had the original bracket that bolt to rear of engine!  And the muffler still had the orig band clamp, and the bolt still turns.  Also the aircleaner/silencer.. cool and quiet..

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Look at the long thin steel tubing pipe hanging from the center of intake manifold in pic below.  That is such a cool thing they designed!  It drains any excess gas from a flooded carb or stuck needle leaking, to prevent the gas from pooling.  Then when the engine starts normally, the vacuum closes a ball check valve !   Every dam thing about this LaS is just awesome, even from a mechanics point of view.

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^^^ I do have a nice intake with nice black porcelain to swap, as this one was brazed up, and I have a NOS gasket for that..

 

 

Last thing today was taking the 3rd water jacket cover/distribution plate off the rotted 34.  I mentioned earlier, it looked suspicious.  Well after 35 bolts were removed...it was gutted of the distribution part.  They used double full coverage gaskets with a full coverage copper sheet in between???? WTH?  Looks like it was run forever like that, but they restricted the flow to the cylinders by mistake? as the water could only pass through from the pump in a gap that is 1/8" by 3".  I can't believe it  worked without boiling?  Car shows 90K miles.  Oil is low and very black.  Low is good as maybe no water in it from raining on it for decades.  This is the only possible savable 2nd motor for the yellow car.  I looked at that frame/chassis again, it is unbelievably  nice.  It will go under the yellow one someday for restoration.  Now I can rest easy about hacking up the worst frame for a body jig

 

Look at the water plates below: All that I own.

The 3 layers at top is the mickey moused one from rotted car.

The middle one is the back side of a really rotted one that I replaced on one of the survivor estate cars.

Bottom one is the back of the one I found on barn floor and thought was OK, it's all pin-holed. The X is the rear blocked off water channel.  The water enters the front slot from pump, then can only escape to those 3 aimed round ports to get around the cylinders.

 

So, I can't run a radiator and water pump for further engine tests tomorrow.  I will have to use the modified one, only to hold water.  Then block off the water pump mounting ports at front face of block.  Fill water to top of head through what would be the radiator hose connection flange.  Run it several times during the day till it starts to boil.  Then final time, I will get it to idle as low as possible to listen for rattles.  They will show at idle, if there are any at all,  It sounds sweet so far.  Starts instantly, and no oil smoke at all. 

 

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P/S, the young guy who owns the 34 truck called this afternoon, wanting to know some measures on the rear cab window panel.  his has pin hole rot. He was going to use a flat panel to block it off, but as my work so far is so promising looking in appearance betterment, he now wants to find a window opening for me to graft in.  All 32-34 Fords sitting outdoors in New England are rotted there, so I told him to look up 31 chevy sedan rear window pics on net, as I know my friend Kenny will likely give him a back panel..(so I don't need to worry about finishing the truck real soon if I get sick with Lyme. He said no rush.)

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Re: Lyme disease - I got a tick bite last year - found the little bugger on the back of my leg when  I was in the shower. Took it off and put it in a medicine vial. My wife saw the characteristic bull's-eye ring around the bite. Off to the doctor who said we won't wait for a diagnosis or testing of the offending tick. Here's a prescription for some serious antibiotics and start right away. Preventive medicine at its best! Outcome is I did not get sick. Was it worth the price of the meds? Absolutely! Would I have gotten Lyme Disease? Hard to say but not worth the risk. Don't fool around with this one and get treatment ASAP!

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15 minutes ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

the doctor who said we won't wait for a diagnosis or testing of the offending tick. Here's a prescription for some serious antibiotics and start right away.

.

 

15 minutes ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

Was it worth the price of the meds? Absolutely! Would I have gotten Lyme Disease? Hard to say but not worth the risk. Don't fool around with this one and get treatment ASAP!

.

You got lucky with that Doctor.  99% of Doctors here, as well as ALL hospitals and ALL walk in clinics, refuse to to do what your doctor did.

 

Only one of my friends has that type of doctor who "looks the other way" and writes a prescription.  That friend has a small farm for his wifes horses...Horses attract deer for some reason.  Then deer bring in the ticks into the fields near the home.  He & wife had Lyme a lot, so many times that he bought free-range hens that eat any tiny thing that moves. Their horses have gotten Lyme.  The horse gets 30 human pills per dose, 2 doses per day, X 3 weeks!!   He still gets tick bites, so his Doctor does a prescription by phone call from him alone, if he sees a ring or feels like he has it.  Many people don't get a ring.

 

Lyme is referred to as "the great imitator", like Syphilis, a multi symptom disease, as well as how it affects people in totally different ways.  That is why the elementary schools massive unknown illnesses in Lyme CT, took so long to diagnose.  The fake news says the disease positively was around in Europe for centuries as there were some written symptoms found.  Ask anyone who lives near Lyme CT on the coast.......right near a tiny island that was used for biological (weapons,  in our opinion).  The island to this day is off limits, even marked in the waters to boaters to stay away or risk arrest.  It's said the lab moved out west in remote area. Heads up, you westerners :(

 

This stuff. or it's research, I am convinced came over from Germany with Werner Von Braun the V1-and V2 rocket designer, as well as thousands of other "people".  I can't give my real description of these "people".

 

I look at my bite a few times each day.  it is red, but small, like any topical infection from an insect.  These bites leave a colored scar for years, all mine can still be noticed.  Thanks for your honest concerns for me.  I only wrote this off topic event to perhaps make people aware of it.  If not caught in time, it is devastating, and is transferred by giving birth from the mother to newborn.  I hope the AACA does understand my off topic post.

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todays work update,

I put on the best water jacket which was the one modified with copper plate.  I only used the outer cover and one full coverage gasket.  The 35 bolting holes need rethreading due to rust, and a trip to Tractor Supply for new short unplated bolts, but why bother until I know the motor is ok?

 

I ran it until it barely started to boil, after letting it sit for 2 hours with cold water in it, while I finished a side job.  No leaks cold, so I did the first heat cycle.  2 nd heating cycle on a very hot day, it boiled much quicker, as there is so little water on top of each cylinder.

 

Decided that I must take the time to build the cooling system.  Had a redone pump for 34, but back cover looks homemade...maybe it was rotted?  Note that there is the thermostat buried in the large hose opening.  I have to take it out for now, I always do on a barn start test.  One less thing to suspect if it does boil with a cooling system.

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I keep finding differences in the 35 LaS.  The 35 pump shown below.  Gone is the water jacket as mentioned days ago.  The pump passage to the jacket area is different on the pump, sticks out further.  Is this a sign of heating issues on 34 engine compartment airflow, compared to the 32 Olds compartment airflow, which is where the 34 LaS engine was copied?

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That was older pic before I robbed parts off it today..in next pic.  But first, look at the old cloth covering of the fan belt.  It came loose and neatly wrapped around the "new for 35",  3/8 copper pump bypass tubing :)  It must be from the breezy ride home on trailer.

 

Pic below after taking parts: The generator was frozen but less frozen thatn the rotted 34 sedan one.  Also took the fan, belt, a

and upper hose for sample to match in my stash. Note that huge hose on 34 pump that went to the gooseneck on head, is not used anymore, but I don't know why.  And 34 does not use the copper tube.  Is it more signs of a refinement due to a heating issue on the new 34 car design??  There is that fan belt ribbon again... :) 

 

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below are the parts I needed. The gen bracket came from the 2nd motor that was on the barn floor, the 35 is missing it, and my motor has a welded up one for a  modification?  Mine had no generator. I freed up the Delco generator, the ball bearings are now rumbling.  I know I had a spare NOS Delco bearing as I've just used one of two, on my 55 Olds generator in my 32 Ford a month ago,  This LaS one looks like it takes another bearing on rear, instead of the later bronze bushing.  There are my donor pieces of new hoses, to make up the connections to a bare 34 radiator...included in pic is a proper rad cap and the tiny short fine thread fan bolts.  Parts cars save time.

Note how different the water gooseneck is with that huge hose to pump.

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a few nights ago, I went through my car books on why the 34 Fleetwood sedan has a 35 Fisher Job number.  The only hint to the mystery came from the big Kimes/Clark book.  They give starting and ending engine serial numbers. At the end of the sentence on the ending number for 1934, is has this quote :    " (includes Jan, Feb, and Mar 1935)".  in parentheses....meaning these were referred to as 1934 engines.  That could mean the all new 35 Fisher was not ready for early 35. One crazy thing is saw also, was wheelbase went from 119 with 1934 Fleetwood, to 120 for Fisher.  Geez...an inch???  The frames look pretty close in design, too. Mounts are different locations for body though 

 

in the AM I will get a radiator out, and try a new cooling system test.  Oh, and late today I figured out why it started acting up like a bad carb.  Any old time mechanic, not a modern tech, will say "90% of all carb problems are really electrical"  They are correct again.  One set of points was not sparking consistently when I took the cap off to see.  The Distributor has a 4 lobe cam, each set of twin points fire 4 cylinders.  Man, now it can idle down so low I can't believe it.  No noises at all, not even faint ones. Like my crushed remote gas can hanging in the tree?  he, he.  Take advantage of whatever speeds the process

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But it has a slight oil showing on the wood deck above ^^^.  It is a loose, tiny line to a remote oil filter, pic below.  It feeds to/from two galley fittings, one directly over the other, 3" or less apart.  I know on the survivors 34s in the estate collection, I had looked at those, and all 3 cars had square head threaded plugs.  I almost recall one head was drilled for a carb spring, but maybe I'm wrong.  None of those 3 cars had a filter. This filter below got bent during the time is was shipped on a wooden skid to the estate.  It looks factory except the tilt of bending. I need to spend some time in the official parts book and 34/35 repair manual, to see if it was an option. It fits there very nicely, and has no mickey mouse bolt locations that I can see yet.  It looks stock.

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Joe just called at 6:30 PM, he is dog tired, first FULL all day on his cleanout contract.  Some treasures showing up under trash that I'll need help to ID later.  One better one seems to be: Straight 8 flathead engine, trans, freewheeling, F&R axles from a bigger series 32 Hupp. All are nice looking condition, not rusty at all.

 

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Late update, I had time to start the cooling system.  The fan from the 35 will not fit; wrong bolt circle and center hole too small. One blade had a sharp old dent, and it caused harmonic vibration and cracked the blade. 

 

 

I was starting to try to get the 34 parts car fan off, but it's too close to radiator..

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.I looked at the radiator rods to firewall to see where I could unbolt them to shove the radiator forward,..and spotted yet another cool design feature for mechanics. a simple turnbuckle design that costs more, but makes it so easy to adjust the front end sheetmetal gaps.  Many cars also have very insecure rod attachments that can pop right off, like 32 Fords do.

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I gave up on that fan, too much work.  I decided to just redrill the cracked 35 fan:

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Then put water pump and gooseneck on, but wanted to remove that thermostat...it is NOT a t-stat, it is a pressure relief that I decided it has to stay in. then installed pump, neck, and generator

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Went to get a loose radiator without the heavy rad support, but you need to fish for mouse nests which are likely... I use .035 wire from my Mig welder, bend a hook, then fish into the corners...yes, a big old nest.

 

 

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It takes a lot of time for proper clean out, so I got the one with rad support on.  I was just getting to the last hose, which uses a metal elbow, but it was rotted under the old hose. So I deleted that metal elbow in favor of the molded rubber elbow that I cut from new hoses I had,

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That was the last simple thing to install to finish it and put water in for a run...but got company for 2 hours, plus Joe showed up with more barn finds to ID.  It was 97 degrees here, despite having my house wood stove going each night , less than a week ago...so I visited, and rested.  I will do long run time in the AM

 

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6 hours ago, r1lark said:

F&J, anxiously awaiting today's report. :)

 

Please stay out from in front of the potential path of that cracked fan blade, if you use that fan.

 

Thanks for the concern, and maybe others can be advised as well, from your post.  I am running at low RPM only, to test cooling.  No fear of the fan....however one thing that NOW always concerns me from past issues.... this:

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^^^ July 10, 2013..... pic taken approximately at the very moment the tornado hit my shop, then the home.  EF-one, so they still stand.  I did not know it was coming, a friend that unfortunately has a drinking problem, called me 15 minutes before it hit. He said he knew I don't have a TV or cell warning, and he said there was a tornado 'warning" just issued for my area.  I called that eve to tell him, "warning...heck, it hit my place", then he said he meant to say that the TV said it was on the ground and heading towards my area.

 

I did not hear the TRAIN they talk of, it went to intense "multiplication" of noise, then the noise cancelled out my hearing, if that makes sense.  I was trying to hold the back door of my house closed, as it broke the latch, I looked outside, not comprehending anything, to see what later I found out, was shredded bits of leaves and dirt screaming horizontally.  The color outside was exactly as if you held a thin translucent yellow film up.  It was yellow everything.  Huge trees uprooted, and some snapped off at middle, and I never heard them through the noise.  I am since very  spooked by quickly blackening skies.  Not much scares me, but this stuff does now.

 

Ok, waiting for new post eh?  I had a busy hot day doing non-car stuff, catch-up tasks, but did run the motor a long time and no overheat so far.  I have no way to do a video, unless someone shows up with the proper stuff.  I was not ready to do a 1/2 minute video, as the carb has spider webs or whatever inside.  It has a bad "mid range" needing 99.9% choke to run good enough till it is at full temp, then it will idle, but not good.  I have no time today to pull the carb top off, even thought it would be fast. It is HOT here again.  And I thought there was a correct 34 carb here someplace, but have not seen it lately...I'd rather use it, than waste time on this one, that is shorter, and wrong choke system for my 34.

 

I was in a great mood for many, many weeks till I tried to access the 1/2 minute Photobucket video my son just took of it running, but not great...just to hear it's lack of knocks/ticks,  and hear the exhaust....I know videos usually make a engine sound like CRAP, but at least we tried.....  I can't get Photobucket to even open the &$% thing, but I was able to copy the link. I am crabby now :(  We chose a very short test video to save upload time. I hate technology that works terrible, even with my new laptop..... their freaking ads make it worse...

 

PS, the motor has been stable as a rock on wood blocks, till the video...it almost took out the radiator, and fell to one side, but I carried on for you guys.. :)  ...but I have no clue if it works here, as I can't even view it myself on PBucket!!!  %%$*#

 

http://vid34.photobucket.com/albums/d105/dailydrivervw/20170519_174047_zpsemospvv9.mp4

 

 

If you guys can open it, let me know if it works for you.

 

More later tonight maybe, as I am stressed by this stuff..and forget things I planned to say

 

.

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