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Tom_Overfield

So very close

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Update on progress, all of the dash wiring is in and connected, waiting on the radio to be sent back from Mike Hannigans Antigue Service as I couldn't source a 6 volt vibrator in the right pin configuration. He will go through the radio and install an electronic replacement board to replace the vibrator.   Clock won't work so I took it out to be sent fro service and upon examining it, it looks like the day it left the factory, perfect condition.  

I was,thinking this HAS to run, put jumpers on it, applied six volts, it clicked once, put it to my ear and it was ticking happily away.  Checked the wiring and found that teenie fuse had blown. So it will go back in tomorrow.   Two more pipes to put in the exhaust system, then remove the back side upholstery, replace the top motors and wire them into the correct switch. That's it, by the middle of May I should be test driving it and ready for the Kalamazoo meet to be judged.  

 

Tom

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Edited by Tom_Overfield (see edit history)
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The clock fuse probably blew because the contact points are pitted and did not open as quickly as they should. Dress the contact points with a burnishing blade, adjust them so that they meet squarely and close completely when the clock is run down. Next lubricate the clock. I used Radio Shack Tuner Cleaner and lubricant in several clocks and they have been running for many years. Do not use WD40 as it is not a lubricant. Clock oil is lighter than 3in1 oil, but you can use the 3in1 if you cannot find a local clock shop to lubricate the clock or find the Tuner Cleaner. Other tuner cleaners may work as well, but the only one that I have experience with is Radio Shack.

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Tom is spot on as usual.  The click you heard was an electromagnet moving.  When the points close it is almost a dead short and a lot of current is flowing for a short period of time.  I found that a fuse called a "slow-blow" fuse works here.  It has the ability to stand current over its rated value for short periods of time much like a thermal relay in line with large motors.  

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Well,i put a new fuse in and it blew instantly. Took the clock apart and the points were indeed stuck closed. Just a gently nudge opened them and they were slightly pitted. I cleaned them up and my wife has sewing machine oil with a syringe to get the oil into small places.  I have tuner cleaner so I will spray it down let it dry, oil where I can, put it together and see what happens. I'll keep you posted.  Thanks again Tom and, you also  Beltfed, any idea where I might source a slo-blow 2amp fuse?

 

Edited by Tom_Overfield (see edit history)

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Be careful spraying the tuner cleaner near the balance wheel. the force of the spray can knock it off of its pivot. I usually hold the spray 18 inches away from the clock to just give it a misting at each pass and make several passes to get the clock clean.

 

The reason that I mentioned the Radio Shack Tuner Cleaner and Lubricant, is that it cleans the dust from the pivot point and it has a fine lubricant in it that keeps the clock oiled. Sewing machine oil is similar to 3in1 oil. My clock repair man, uses a small needle that he dips in the oil and then applies it to the pivot points.

 

I believe that the correct fuse is a 3 amp SFE. This would be a 1/4" diameter x 5/8" length. If your fuse is 1 1/4" long, it would be an AGC type fuse and a slow blow is available to replace it.

Edited by 19tom40
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I had a can of radio shack tuner cleaner and lubricant sitting on the shelf from years ago. I took your advice and glad it did as it really comes out fast.,,anyway, sitting on the bench ticking away. Now to see if it blows the fuse when the points close.

 

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Edited by Tom_Overfield (see edit history)

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