1946 Roadmaster 76S - few questions

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Hi all,


I've actually started writing in th AACA forums looking for a early 40's Lincoln Continental V12. However as finding one I like for a price I'm willing to pay turns out to be a tough cookie I recently went back to my roots: Buick. Out of various Buicks I had my oldest was a 72 Riviera Boattail. Time to go further back in time. I was offered a 1946 Model 76-S, a Roadmaster Sedanette. I have some questions about this car which even after many nights out in the Internet I could not answer myself. Hope you can help. Seems to be a very rare car...

My questions mainly aim to evaluate the originality of the car.


1) The VIN is 14432026 engine # 4598469. To what I found both indicate a (rather late) 46 model plus it's likely to be the engine that came with the car. Can anyone confirm?


2) The interiour seems to be refurbished to a certain extend with tan carpets and tan vinyl seats. Though it nicely matches the exterior (a sort of ivory w/tan roof/hood/decklid) I don't think vinyl was a factory option as I only found cloth seats. I don't currently have the trim code. What do you think? Genuine or aftermarket?


3) The hood as one "Super" handle and also does not feature the bombsight ornament. It however looks okay to me and seems to fit properly. Maybe a 41 hood with a wrong latch? If so, are there any differences between 41 and 46 to be considered? 


4) There are some more serious rust issues in the trunk (as described below). Is there a source of repair panels (trunk floor and side walls in particular)?


5) Take a look at the carb (picture below). I read that 46 Roadmasters came with one double barrel carb however this one seems to be a single barrel Stromberg. But I may be wrong here. However, is this the factory carb?


6) Also I read that 46 320's had an early PCV system that evacuates gases through a thin tube installed at the valve cover to the air filter. This is not equipped here. So what's wrong? My information or the valve cover?


6) Most important: I tried to value the car but it seems impossible to find relevant offers. I should mention that I'm in Germany so my google by far does not provide proper search results from the US or Canada due to my IP adress... Here a brief description - I'd highly appreciate your (rough) estimation


- Engine: seems to be rebuild as it's blue instead of torquise and also doesn't have correct stickers attached to the valve cover. However at least this paint job was done well, no spraycan work, all gaskets were installed after painting. It seems to be an unmolested 320.2 with a very nice overall appearance. The spark plug latch is missing, rest of engine compartment looks complete and original. Seller says it starts & runs well and comsumes very little oil. Couldn't however test drive it as the starter is currently brocken. Let's assume it works as advertised...

Air filter assembly is not installed but comes with the car. It runs still on original 6V system.



- Interior: very nice, complete and only little damage. Everything seems original and unmolested except carpets and seat covers/door panels. Needs to be cleaned but is physically okay. Steering wheel should be re-casted and maybe the radio needs an overhaul.





- Exterior: paint and chrome are rather bad. Let's call it patina - if you like a car that looks 70 years old it's good to go. It may be the original color as it's faded, chipped, scratched and worn. However there are no dents, the car is very straight. I frankly would preserve it as it is. Fender skirts and two hubcaps are missing. Lenses and emblems are bad but can easily be replaced. Hood may not be original but fits. Glass is good however rear window has plenty of scratches and might be replaced at a time.




- Sheet metal: here's the issue. There is some minor cancer at driver side rocker panel and floor pan (size of the palm of a hand). Frame and rest of underbody look really solid. However there's a bigger issues in the trunk. Theres a minor hole at the edge between rear right fender and the body however this gave way for loads of water. So cancer eat up some of the structure underneath the c-pillar and also destroyed some parts of the trunk floor and sheet metal at the right inner wall of the trunk. No big holes though however instead of repairing one of the former owners molested the entire (!!!) trunk with load of undercoat.


- Maintenance: car needs a complete brake job, new tires, engine oil and some more minor maintenance to be performed.


Dont know what else to say - car seems to be in a very fair condition and can be heavily improved by cleaning and replacing some minor parts. Not a show winner but a solid driver. I consider buing it when there are not too many alterations as I always prefer a bad but 100% original car over a glossy resto-mod ;).


I attached some pictures. Please have a look and share your thoughts. Moreover is there any further advice and hints you can give? Lincoln V-12 would be awesome, however a straight 8 can definitely keep up and I love the way this particular cars tells history.


Thanks for your support!




Some more interior:




Edited by Matt455 (see edit history)

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Seats and door panels are definitely not original style or material.  But still not aftermarket.  There is likely no aftermarket parts for these per se, and each is done individually  and independently.  I would not tear it out.


As to the dashboard, is that knob to the right below the radio a manual choke?  If so I think that's an add on too.


The carb appears to be a two barrel.  The two openings are at the junction of the carb to intake manifold, and not readily seen from the outside.  Can you post a picture from the top opening down inside the carb?


Also surprised you did not post a picture of the hood.  I would doubt a 41 hood would align with the 46 fenders and go around the upper part of the grill for the 46,

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The carburetor pictured is a Stromberg 2-barrel carburetor (or double barrel in terminology you used) and probably original (cannot  verify from the picture).


You can verify the originality of the carburetor as follows:


Stromberg STAMPED the identification number on the carburetor. Look straight down on the top casting (airhorn) of the carburetor. Observe that there are 4 screws along the front rim and also the back rim, but only open space along the two side rims. Along one or the other of the side rims, you will find the STAMPED (NOT RAISED) identification number. It will be in the format ccc-nnn-l, where:


ccc is a 1, 2, or 3 digit number which is the Stromberg code number for the company (7 is the code number for Buick)

nnn is a 1, 2, or 3 digit number which is the sequential number of different carburetors sold by Stromberg to the specific company

l is a letter which may or may not be present representing the engineering status code of the particular carburetor.


Example 7-69A would be the original carburetor for a 1947 Buick 40 series with the carburetor having 1 major engineering change (a second change, and the A would be changed to B).


Once you have identified the number, this reference should help:



Edited by carbking (see edit history)

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Thanks for the fast replies. John, this know is not original but I have no idea what it acutally does. It's a two step switch, not a choke. But as said, no clue what's it there for...

Both, thanks for the information about the carb. I'm only familiar with Rochester where you can see the number of barrels easily from above. So it was a misunderstanding on my side. Thanks for enlighting me. For the time being I'm fine to know that the carb is at least similar to the stock one and not a modification.


Attached find one more pic of the car showing the hood. 

buick (60).jpg

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That appears to be the original hood with a broken bombsight ornament. 

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The heater is a knob that twists clockwise to turn on, and counterclockwise to shut off, and it would be located more towards the passenger side of the dash, underneath the glove box area. That does look like an original Stromberg 2-barrel carburetor. I'll attach a couple of photos of my 1948 76-S. It is an unrestored, 18,000-mile car that has won the BCA's Archival Elite award. Paint and upholstery are original. Your car has the beautiful ivory-colored steering wheel and dash knobs. In 1948, these were black. Otherwise, that '46 and my car are just about alike.  I have the hubcaps you need, and I think I have the fender skirts, too.

Production of the 1946 76-S was a little over 8,000, so it is not a common car. According to the BCA Judging Manual, the only two-tone paint schemes for 1946 were a two-tone gray, or a two-tone green, in other words, two shades of gray or two shades of green. The color divisions on this car are in the correct place, but someone took some liberties with the color choices. Nevertheless, it is a very nice car, rarely seen, and a wonderful long-distance highway cruiser.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas




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 Pete is correct for the heater switch. It is the top right marked Blower. To clarify, the switch in question appears to be after market. I am thinking it may be used in place of an inoperative Blower switch. Just  WAG.  On the other hand, it is marked with a C.  I bet you will determine what it is.



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Thank you very much for you helpful replies. So I understand this car hast been restored once and someone took the freedom to adjust interior and exterior to his (or her) personal liking.

Thats okay so far but also means there is little justification to preserve the paint which I thought to be original. Do you think the ivory base color is 46?


Pete, great car. Black is the color of choice for those cars! Guess mine would be black, too. One day...


In terms of valuation in which range would a car like this sell in the US on a good average? 5, 10 or 15 thousand $? What do you think? 



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That's a pretty sweet rig!  But I'm biased :)


In regards to the carb, it *appears* to be exactly like what my 76-S is running (also presumably factory). 



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Looks like a great Buick, and quite rare.

You would be surprised what a good buffing and polishing job would do for this car.

Semichrome is your friend, and it will tell you which parts really need to go to the plater.


Were it mine, I would do the mechanical stuff first. Pull the pan and clean it. Rebuild the oil and water pump. Pull the 1st and 3rd frost plugs and hose out the block. Reverse flush the radiator, and get the brakes and master cylinder back in shape. You could wire brush the underside and "rattle can" paint it, if you get bored.


Just my  $ .02, and worth every penny.


Mike in Colorado

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