New problem today

[Guest]

Today I started a brand new problem all of a sudden. (for those who don't know: 1987 307 olds, 4BC, stock, 67k miles) WOT it runs normal, average loads at mid-rpms it runs normal, idle is smooth and sweet. I took it to a jiffy lube-type place and had the oil changed. I was there, they just changed oil so I don't think they hit any wires or anything. After I left (on the way to the junkyard where I found a set of 5A heads AND a CZ code 200-4r) on the way, it started doing the following: at about 40 mph, the TC would lock up like normal, but when I asked for a tiny bit more power, the engine would start bucking and popping back through the carb under the load. If it unlocked the TC or downshifted, it was fine. WOT is fine, low loads are fine. If I smashed the pedal from a stop it used to be fine (slow, but fine), and now it pops back through the carb and carries on. I've recently done plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I rechecked that work and its fine. I don't have my timing light, but the housing is really tighly locked down. Almost feels like a lean condition, cam timing, or ignition advance. I'm ruling out the fuel pump and fuel filter because that would be worse at WOT. I'm thinking its probably not cam timing because if the chain were that sloppy it would be making noise (not to mention it wouldn't stretch all of a sudden). I'm also guessing its not ignition advance, because there are no weights or vacuum. Its controlled by the computer and usually when they go its not just part way.<P>At the same time I noticed something else. My tach was doing a little bit of jumping (like a mechanical speedo does sometimes) Today it was wildly jumping around (like 1000 rpm vibrations) Are these two problems connected?<P>Thanks in advance<BR>Curtis<P>PS. I kinda hope its a wiped cam. That'll make me feel less guilty for modding the engine! I'll just tell myself that it needed it.

[rocketraider]

Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. This will reset the computer to default and will tell if it's a computer problem. It may go away.<P>I don't trust quick-lubes. I took one in once because the service station I usually deal with was busy as a cat in a sandbox, I was several hundred miles overdue, didn't have time to do it myself and was ready to start a 400 mile trip. My first tip off was when they pulled the breather out of the valve cover and put the oil in that way, and when I questioned the kid why he didn't use the oil fill tube on front of the engine, he said the breather was the best way to put it in, bullshat!<P>And then they didn't tighten the drain plug properly. Had I not noticed the puddle in the driveway while loading the car for the trip, I'd have probably been stranded a ways from home with a locked engine. I raised enough racket about the drain plug that I got my money back. And I haven't gone back.

[Guest]

Thanks...Problem fixed!!! The NAPA 8mm wires I had put on were defective. Some of the short ones tested more resistance than the long ones. The highest one tested 25,000 ohms. Definately not good. I took them back and got Bosch lifetime wires.<P>Thanks<BR>Curtis

[rocketraider]

Glad things worked out, but this is the first time I've heard of new NAPA electrical parts being defective. Then again, we haven't had a NAPA here in close to 15 years, closest ones are 20 miles away, so things may have changed with them since I bought from them.

[Guest]

I think NAPA started consolidating part numbers more than necessary. My first clue with my HEI-style 8mm wires was that they inluded a separate coil wire. HEIs don't have separate coils except the most recent ones like camaro TPIs, but the wire they included was for old-style pre-HEI coils. The universal HEI kit applied to 132 applications and cost $15.99, but the exact-fit part number which applied only to Olds engines was $54.99. I never bought parts at NAPA before, but 3 of the 4 items I bought parts there have been incorrect part numbers or defective. This particular NAPA store doesn't get any more of my business.<P>I bought a Glow Plug Relay from NAPA for my F250 diesel on a recommendation from a Ford enthusiast website. I had to supply the correct part number. The one they listed was not correct. In fact their part numbers for the GPR were the same from 92-present, but Ford used three different GPRs in that period with different connections, ratings, and even locations in the vehicle. It may just be my NAPA store....<P>curtis