Pilgrim65 Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Whilst sorting sump gasket oil seal thanks to you guys , noticed wet gear box / drive shaft area , friend says gearbox rear oil seal have friend from AZ coming in 9 days so hoping to buy and have him bring . So any suggestions for supplier gratefully appreciated. cheers pilgrim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Pilgrim, What exactly is leaking. The front input shaft seal? Rear torque ball seal? Perhaps both? For the rear torque ball seal look for a vulcanized torque ball seal. No shims required. Works well. I believe most of the usual parts suppliers can offer the vulcanized torque ball seal. Concerning the input shaft seal, I had to make one. Depending on what type of shaft your manual has. One shaft requires a ring type seal. At least that what was used in my 54. I switched to a 55 manual that required a flat ring seal that I made from cork material. Original 54 manual. Ring seal is located at the base of the shaft: Look closely at the base of the input shaft on the 55 manual. There is a cork seal that once compressed takes on a cone shape and seals. I had to make a flat piece to accomplish this. This is the simple piece I cut. Works just fine. There may be one in a kit but if you don't need the entire kit like me. make one. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilgrim65 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 thanks , will investigate further , unfortunately flying back to UK for 2 weeks, Ruby parked and covered so back on ramp when I return , will post findings many thanks from a novice. pilgrim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) More than likely you will pull the manual anyway. Honestly, once the torque tube/rear is out of the way removing the manual from the bell housing is a 4 bolt affair. Might was well take it out and replace the seals from front to back. There are gasket kits available if I'm not mistaken. Then of course you know if your in there might as well pull the bell housing and replace the clutch assembly. You know how it snowballs!!!!! Edited April 13, 2017 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilgrim65 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 torque tube / clutch last year , hopefully ok cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 4 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: More than likely you will pull the manual anyway. Honestly, once the torque tube/rear is out of the way removing the manual from the bell housing is a 4 bolt affair. Might was well take it out and replace the seals from front to back. There are gasket kits available if I'm not mistaken. Then of course you know if your in there might as well pull the bell housing and replace the clutch assembly. You know how it snowballs!!!!! No need to remove bell housing. In fact the clutch/pressure plate must be removed to remove the flywheel to remove the bell housing. . Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: No need to remove bell housing. In fact the clutch/pressure plate must be removed to remove the flywheel to remove the bell housing. . Ben Been a while Ben. I just remember two pieces. Trans and bell housing. ?. I remarked how much easier it was to deal with than the one piece manuals when puling it our. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now