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1954 century sedan. GA to NC


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1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

 

Like holy moly how? Like holy moly that's too much or holy moly great deal for something you probably won't have to ever worry about again? 

Holy moly in that unless shipping is free,  by the time you're done,  you're in almost $700 anyway 

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1 minute ago, MrEarl said:

Is that a round brake knob. A lot of 54s had 55 style brake knobs. 

Indeed it is.  I thought it had paint on it so I removed it for cleaning.  Turned out to be really old wax.

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4 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Holy moly in that unless shipping is free,  by the time you're done,  you're in almost $700 anyway 

 Good insurance ain't cheap. That's pretty much wholesale, other companies buy from them then turn around and sell for 7-800. 

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Wow 

Yeah, I took a good woopin' on my '39 spec rad. The guy really had me. Wouldnt even consider a repair. Oh no, you meed a recore! Save my original stuff, says I! Its 39 only. Come to pick up. Oh, the scapper just left with that stuff sorry, as he pockets some more cash! 595.oo to recore your radiator

 Was it good for you? A little late to complain. Talk about having ya by the short hairs

 Buyer beware with radiator repair guys these daze! New bolt in? Doesnt seem so costly to me now.

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
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Radiator shop called.  Not repairable.  He said the core material is too brittle.  He's going to get me a price on a core (non-original style) tomorrow.  In the meantime I've asked 2carb40 to hook me up with the used radiator he knows of.

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7 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Radiator shop called.  Not repairable.  He said the core material is too brittle.  He's going to get me a price on a core (non-original style) tomorrow.  In the meantime I've asked 2carb40 to hook me up with the used radiator he knows of.

Probably best to get the radiator from the shop now before they start adding service $$$.

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15 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Radiator shop called.  Not repairable.  He said the core material is too brittle.  He's going to get me a price on a core (non-original style) tomorrow.  In the meantime I've asked 2carb40 to hook me up with the used radiator he knows of.

 

 Funny how some radiators held up and others did not.  My '50, from So Carolina, was the same. Had to install new core. I just acquired one from a '50 Roadmaster and had it rodded out . Core is in "great shape" per the shop doing the work.  Must have been the water.

 

  Ben

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2 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 Funny how some radiators held up and others did not.  My '50, from So Carolina, was the same. Had to install new core. I just acquired one from a '50 Roadmaster and had it rodded out . Core is in "great shape" per the shop doing the work.  Must have been the water.

 

  Ben

 

 

Depends on how long folks left the antifreeze unchanged.  It gets acidic over a period of time.  The faithful drain and fillers had long lived radiators.   

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When you get your radiator ready to fill and if you have hard water in your area,use distilled water to mix,it will give you a lot less trouble in the future.Up here in the northeast we have very hard water so I always use distilled and add just a table spoon of vegetable oil,really keeps it from build up inside.Looks like you're making progress.

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5 minutes ago, RivRider said:

 

I agree on not paying for water until it comes to distilled for my old girls.the ones with tires that is.Nice tee shirt!

Lol. Sorry if the tee is too much.  One of my thrift store buys for working on cars.

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8 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

One last little spot on the roof....20170429_140357.thumb.jpg.1489d5f0597aa6c441b51f6e47d3fce8.jpg

With a high of almost 90, I'm taking frequent breaks though. Drinking my tap water.....LOL

 

You got fans?

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Yea i have a few fans.  Got all the paint of the roof. Got the car up on jack stands, tomorrow I'll start meddling with brakes.  Ive got the rebuilt MC, ordered new rubber lines.  Will inspect wheel cylinders tomorrow.  What shoes does anyone prefer?

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You should hit that bare metal with a prep acid for body work.  That "New Metal" Acid will go on easy and etch the metal plus dry to a finish which will offer some temporary protection from flash rusting.  Also NAPA has a spray paint product for lightly rusted metal that coats the rust and converts it to a black finish that seals the bare metal from flash rusting. Otherwise you will be sanding from now till forever!

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
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So 705 to recore the radiator with a newer core type,  800 for original style core.  Still waiting to hear aboutthe used radiator, although shipping will be high and who knows how long it'll last. ? I'm going to need to make hard choices and if this 54 is going to see the road again,  the 55 and all the auxiliary bits might need to hit the road. 

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Is there no other radiator shop in the area? I really think they're charging you because it's for a 54 Buick. I mean for that price, you might as well buy one new. Where's it leaking from? The picture you shared looks like the overflow tube is broken, and nothing else? or is it leaking from the core?

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Where is it leaking, do you know? You can buy various sized rubber plugs to stick in the holes, then submerge in a pool of water and hit it with compressed air to see where it's coming out of. Just make sure it's like 7psi. Then bust out your soldering gun and patch it up.

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Well the one shop was all ready to repair it until it got there. They said it was too brittle.   I don't think either shop is out for the money so to speak as both recommended going to buy a new one online over recore!

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9 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Core is leaking. Gotten two local quotes.  The more I research, the more I see this price is average.

Price is double my local price.  New radiator for the same price as a repair=no brainer.

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14 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Price is double my local price.  New radiator for the same price as a repair=no brainer.

Well yes and I'm at the point in my life I don't want to "patch" anything.  Inevitably it will break at the most inconvenient time and I'll be forced to burn the whole d*mn thing to the ground!  :rolleyes:  I don't have the patience I used to and have so much else going on,  I just want a driver and then I'll be done.  I enjoy the hunt, the driving, the friends, but not the rebuild/repair part of the hobby.  Anyhow, I won't get back into that on here.  Once I get some other stuff sold, I'll fork out for the new radiator and move on.

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Maybe try calling outside your area to find places that won't charge an arm and a leg for a recore, and then cut the losses with some $20 worth of gas? Or maybe send it to someone in the club that can take it to a shop? Just options I suppose. Regrettably I had dropped a socket into the fan shroud a while back and didn't realize until it hit the fan and punctured the radiator. The solder job has been holding since last June. No more than 30 seconds, just heat up the gun, stick it over the puncture with solder and then you're done. I'm pretty sure it's a special kind of solder, though. I took it to the rad shop for the fix, and I was $45 out of pocket for it. Couldn't believe it was just a butane torch and solder... Copper radiators are always brittle, that's why they really can't take no more than 7 psi. Aluminum is weaker, but the construction makes them stronger, hence the usual 14 psi caps.

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Well yes and I'm at the point in my life I don't want to "patch" anything.  Inevitably it will break at the most inconvenient time and I'll be forced to burn the whole d*mn thing to the ground!  :rolleyes:  I don't have the patience I used to and have so much else going on,  I just want a driver and then I'll be done.  I enjoy the hunt, the driving, the friends, but not the rebuild/repair part of the hobby.  Anyhow, I won't get back into that on here.  Once I get some other stuff sold, I'll fork out for the new radiator and move on.

 

Good thinking sir.  I have had radiators repaired back in the day only to have them "blow" like a steam whistle on a south bound 2-6-2 pulling 50 cars.  One time a repaired radiator blew so badly it completely burnt two valves on the driver side head of a 231 V6 found in my 1978 Buick Regal coupe.   Get the new radiator when money allows.  Drive cool. Drive with confidence.  Drive a Buick.  Drive happy.  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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On 4/30/2017 at 3:28 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Got the clock back in.

20170430_152129.thumb.jpg.50d8bf902a62737c83d243e66a21d144.jpg

Pulled the steering wheel to swap it out...  had to make my own puller.

20170430_151822.thumb.jpg.6806bb5712866a4c63b0a5f3fd61488f.jpg

 

Any one know how to remove the cam on the back of the steering wheel that turns off the turn signals?

 

20170430_152241.thumb.jpg.43a1436151c27ef78eef5c178403a3e9.jpg

Hmmm. Spot welds:

20170502_192321.thumb.jpg.6abf89afb5fd1b18b57ba55abeccea99.jpg

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