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1954 century sedan. GA to NC


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I rebuilt my pump with a kit from CARS. Any new kits will be ethanol resistant, stay away from NOS pumps and kits unless you want to rebuild them or throw them in the trash.

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2 minutes ago, Beemon said:

I rebuilt my pump with a kit from CARS. Any new kits will be ethanol resistant, stay away from NOS pumps and kits unless you want to rebuild them or throw them in the trash.

Yea especially at the price they go for

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On 4/11/2017 at 7:09 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Color did rub off with laquer thinner. Polishing compound seems to have no affect on the sanded or unsanded paint. Maybe too light of a grit?

If you cannot bring out a nice shine after polishing out the 1000 grit marks, then wax is the only thing that will improve the shine.  Lacquer will shine even if very old when polished; old chalky enamel might improve, but will never shine well.

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On ‎4‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 9:54 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

This is my friend's you tube account. The other videos in no way reflect my treatment of vehicles

Set up your own You tube account. Not that hard. And keep them coming!

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I've used Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze on my GP (original lacquer paint) with good results.  Paint was originally 'flat white' and now has a nice sheen.  Needs a couple of more applications, but 100% improvement and non-abrasive.  This product works more like the kerosene procedure suggested by RivRider.

 

http://www.autogeek.net/meg7showcarg.html

 

The results can be dramatic, as shown in this article...

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

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That continued through 56, at least.  Actually I give the company a lot of credit for not being afraid to admit some things needed to be fixed, and offering advice on how to do it. 

 

2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

This came in the mail today. Seems like a lot of reworks for 54.

20170417_181733.jpg

 

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1 minute ago, Beemon said:

About 450 is what I paid for mine and I live in the most expensive state second to California. Are you going two core or three core? 

That quote was to go back original 

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Yes, that's exactly the issue.  I went through this with '36 and '38 radiators.  If I recall, a modern core was about $300 which included labor.  

 

One thing I didn't like was the call from the rad shop telling me my cores were rotted and wouldn't survive rodding.  I later learned that rad cores were scrapped at nearly $2/lb at the time and the shop didn't return mine and I didn't know to ask.  Also, I've long gotten past losing this part of originality.

 

Joel

 

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From this tablet, I can't copy and paste links but look on YouTube for a video of a guy melting candle wax on rusted lug nuts. The melted wax apparently wicks into the threads and makes for easy removal.

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Matt, people may disagree with me, but a 2 minute Edelbrock electric choke will solve your problem. If it's missing at the carb, it's probably broken off the manifold and all I can say is good luck getting the broken part out.

 

You can probably find the right machine screw and flat piece at the hardware store. Just be weary, there may be a reason why the horn is disconnected.

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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8 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Matt, people may disagree with me, but a 2 minute Edelbrock electric choke will solve your problem. If it's missing at the carb, it's probably broken off the manifold and all I can say is good luck getting the broken part out.

I figured it would be a real b*tch to get the manifold side fixed.  Although i have a few manifolds with the choke tube still on them.  Does this electric choke fit directly in the same place?

8 minutes ago, Beemon said:

You can probably find the right machine screw and flat piece at the hardware store. Just be weary, there may be a reason why the horn is disconnected.

Yea I thought about just dragging it to the store and finding one to fit.  I hooked them up momentarily by holding the wires on and letting a friend hit the horn button.  They work well! But the horn button takes a lot of movement to make contact.

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Just now, wndsofchng06 said:

I figured it would be a real b*tch to get the manifold side fixed.  Although i have a few manifolds with the choke tube still on them.  Does this electric choke fit directly in the same place?

The difference between AFB and WCFB choke springs is that WCFB is backwards from the AFB. I just recieved my correct WCFB in the mail, so I've been doing a tone of research. For $10, pull the spring off the choke housing and flip it over. I wish I had done mine when it was out of the car, but the way it broke it looked like it was supposed to be that way, and I've regretted it since. You might be able to get at the manifold with a dremel tool if it's attached to the car. I haven't had any luck with mine and am in no rush to pull the manifolds off. An electric choke has always worked fine for me.

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On 4/19/2017 at 8:42 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

That quote was to go back original 

Hi Matt

    I hope I was clear 55 Cent running car, radiator does not leak, 100.00 plus shipping for radiator. Yer call.

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Can't beat $100 for a gawranteed used radiator.  

Next one I have that goes out I'm going with this. A couple '54 Buick Highway guys report excellent quality. 

http://classicfordradiator.com/1954-56-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator-regular-core-design-3131176.aspx  

 

I'd have to try and talk them down a few more dollars though, always worth a try

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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Holy moly!

 

Like holy moly how? Like holy moly that's too much or holy moly great deal for something you probably won't have to ever worry about again? 

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No matter how much you spend, be sure to incorporate some sort of filter for the antifreeze to prevent any debris from cycling back to the top tank. 

 

Panythose will work, even if the store clerk looks at you funny when you buy some.

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