NC-car-guy

1954 century sedan. GA to NC

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Just now, wndsofchng06 said:

 from what I heard that guy just had enough made to justify the minimum order. I'm not looking for a race car or anything I was just curious what the Springs might help with

 

The springs should help but may make the ride a bit harsher.  These may also raise the ride height was well.  Lower center of gravity reduces as a result.     

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Maybe... but an expensive experiment.  My best handling 55 has a heavier swaybar and heavier springs front and rear.

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Just to clarify, I have no problems with the ride currently.  with the exception of the one time I had 6 adults in the car.

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Just to clarify, I have no problems with the ride currently.  with the exception of the one time I had 6 adults in the car.

 

A new set if rear coil springs will set you straight.   I had similar issue with my Special.  Butt dragging with a few people in the back.   Dropped in new coils.  Problem solved.   The coils can be had for about $60-90 depending on where you purchase the coils.    

 

https://www.1954buick.com/topic/2186-new-rear-coil-springs/#comment-12862

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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42 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

A new set if rear coil springs will set you straight.   I had similar issue with my Special.  Butt dragging with a few people in the back.   Dropped in new coils.  Problem solved.   The coils can be had for about $60-90 depending on where you purchase the coils.    

 

https://www.1954buick.com/topic/2186-new-rear-coil-springs/#comment-12862

adding more to the list.... starting to worry me...  If I put in the power steering, new springs, new front shocks, I might as well put in my 56 dynaflow and rear end while the car is down.  Then I still have carpet, headliner, fuel gauge to do, so I might as well get it painted, while it's down you know?   HA HA HA HA HA  it snowballs....  I'm not good at compartmentalizing these things.  I rationalize by doing everything at once and being done!  HA HA HA

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2 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

adding more to the list.... starting to worry me...  If I put in the power steering, new springs, new front shocks, I might as well put in my 56 dynaflow and rear end while the car is down.  Then I still have carpet, headliner, fuel gauge to do, so I might as well get it painted, while it's down you know?   HA HA HA HA HA  it snowballs....  I'm not good at compartmentalizing these things.  I rationalize by doing everything at once and being done!  HA HA HA

 

Welcome to the hobby! 

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4 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

adding more to the list.... starting to worry me...  If I put in the power steering, new springs, new front shocks, I might as well put in my 56 dynaflow and rear end while the car is down.  Then I still have carpet, headliner, fuel gauge to do, so I might as well get it painted, while it's down you know?   HA HA HA HA HA  it snowballs....  I'm not good at compartmentalizing these things.  I rationalize by doing everything at once and being done!  HA HA HA

But then I usually never get done and end up like Bernie, everything is a project.

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

But then I usually never get done and end up like Bernie, everything is a project.

 

Once piece at a time.  Johnny Cash. 

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I highly recommend a set of progressive springs. On my move out to the University, with a full load in the back seat and trunk, she still wasn't squatting. Also gave the car a really nice stance with the stock coils in the front. I think it was even avgwarhawk that turned me onto them in the first place.

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Well... there's good and there's bad. I think those hydraulic switches were an incredibly stupid idea, because putting something that moves (at all) in the brake hydraulics is going to remove a little pedal travel, add a little sponginess, and add one more spot for a leak that could cause your brakes to get full of air.

 

On one particular car, when I went to retrieve it after buying it, the hydraulic switch shorted to ground and tried to burn the wiring. Fortunately I was standing there and just disconnected the battery. That could have been really bad. It sure wasn't confidence inspiring.

 

I have also heard people complaining that the hydraulic switches don't trip easy enough, and also complaining (as the guy in the video does) that they are incompatible with silicone fluid.

 

New replacement switches are available that trip easier. I believe they have an "L" suffix on the part number. They do have a more modern look, using the flower-shaped socket for removal that you would expect to see on an oil pressure switch. If you happen to need a hex-shaped one for authenticity you would be stuck with NOS, and the higher trip pressure that comes with it. Either way it wont trip as easily as a mechanical, which can be set to trip before the brakes even start to work.

 

I have heard that Harley Davidson uses pressure switches, and that they have been using silicone fluid for years. A genuine Harley switch might be a cure for that problem. I have not attempted to verify that, but it is a possibility to check out.

 

Mechanical switches are better, but I wouldn't mount it where he did. It should be under the dash. Maybe there was no other way on that Studebaker. I predict it wont last long under the car.

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I did what beemon just linked.. Works great.. No butchering involved and lights come on instantly

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26 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Except 54s don't have a hanging pedal...

I have the same problem, have replaced couple of time and won’t last long maybe because I’m using DOT 5 brake fluid. Using hand signals as an emergency situation won’t work with traffic around here. Let me know what you come up with. I will definitely investigate Bloo’s suggestion  about the Harley’s motorcycle switch. Will it fit as a replacement? I wonder

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1 hour ago, Elpad said:

I have the same problem, have replaced couple of time and won’t last long maybe because I’m using DOT 5 brake fluid. Using hand signals as an emergency situation won’t work with traffic around here. Let me know what you come up with. I will definitely investigate Bloo’s suggestion  about the Harley’s motorcycle switch. Will it fit as a replacement? I wonder

 

You'll need to come up with something on the other side of the firewall/floorboard.  The issue will be keeping the switch dry...  Maybe there's a way to rig a cable to the pedal mechanism below the floor and then route the cable back through the firewall to a 'pull-on' switch mounted under the dash?

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No pictures of the installation, but I adapted Ron Francis Wiring Lever Brake Switches SW68 at Summit Racing.

Mounted under the car for my added cruise control (stock switch and circuits canceled the cruise when turn signals used)...anyhow no issues since 2001.

Edited by old-tank
linked content did not work (see edit history)

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Seeing as how the 54s use a different pedal set up I'd go the route they showed on that Studebaker..I  had  an old 59 Chevy truck that used that set up from the factory.. Never had a problem with it or the original switch

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I saw a mechanical switch that they claim to be waterproof. I will find the link to post

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Well, got the pressure switch replaced for now, brake lights work without flooring the pedal... yay!  Adjusted and bled, added a tiny bit more fluid, ready to roll again.  Looking out my kitchen window, I can't help but think of a Jeff Foxworthy joke. 

20171231_131412.jpg

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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11 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

You'll need to come up with something on the other side of the firewall/floorboard.  The issue will be keeping the switch dry...  Maybe there's a way to rig a cable to the pedal mechanism below the floor and then route the cable back through the firewall to a 'pull-on' switch mounted under the dash?

Will try this first Ron Francis wiring part # SW-32 low pressure switch compatible with Silicone Fluid

946716E1-DCB5-4366-8869-0C8DC036677E.jpeg

Edited by Elpad (see edit history)
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13 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Except 54s don't have a hanging pedal...

 

I forgot 56 was the only tri-5 Buick that had hanging pedals. The Studebaker solution would probably be your best bet then. You might just want to invent some type of splash guard. Living in a wet state like Washington, you have to be careful with wet roads and puddles. I'm sure North Carolina isn't quite like Washington, but still gets pretty wet from time to time.

 

I used to think the hydraulic switch worked great, until I got pulled over for no brake lights and had to prove they work by mashing the pedal. Checking at the house is very different from actual stop and go traffic.

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Installed the switch problem solved! It does work with silicone fluid have brake lamps again!

7D073939-449A-464D-BE20-428326A8131D.jpeg

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Went driving again this weekend,  I noticed I need to lube the speedo cable as the speedo doesn't move at first then jumps way up, bounces, then normalizes.  Also, I am missing some coolant.  Each time I drive it, it takes about a half gallon.  Oil is normal, no smoke, but not seeing any big leaks either.  No fog or smell of coolant inside the car.  I do see that it's belching a little out the over flow .  I have the 7lb cap and 180 degree thermostat, but each time I use the car it takes about a half gallon to reach the "cold fill" line on the top tank.  Also noticed my starter is acting up.  I'll press the gas down two or three times where it will grunt, and on the third or fourth time it will spin and start.  I will first check all my connections and see.  Unfortunately some of my planned projects on her will need to wait as uncle sam's share that I owe for 2017 ended up being more than I expected.  Tax preparer says at my current income and deductions it will be $2k more next year!  UGH.:blink:  Guess I better get some dependents I can claim.........  on second thought, NAH!

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