Jump to content

1954 century sedan. GA to NC


Recommended Posts

I would still ground the sending unit wire temporarily and make sure it pulls the gauge down to "e".

 

I don't know exactly what the 54 sending unit looks like, but I'm guessing when you get it out you will find that some rivet corroded off and let the resistor loose.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 kind of off topic, but I found my spare wiper switch I pulled off of a 55 for my electric wiper conversion (don't bother with electric, the motor is weak and makes the blades slap the stainless). It should be the same, if not similar, but its pretty simple in design. Hopefully this helps when you get to it. I must note there wasn't a rubber washer with this unit, but would probably be a good idea to add one. 

20171122_173738.jpg

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Beemon...I  have  the Newport system installed on my 56.. Can't say I find the motor weak.. Although there isn't a big difference between slow and fast.. As for the blades slapping the stainless.. When you installed the motor did you remove the arms and then reinstall them or did you leave them installed.. You're suppose to remove the arms then install the motor..I  had  to tinker with the arm indexing and I had to tighten my shaft pullies which was the opposite direction of what I had read.. But now no problems for a few years even in nasty down pours. Just food for thought.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My car came factory with cam-o-matic wipers. When I enquired, because they were factory stock on the Roadmaster and optional on other series, the guy informed me it would not matter. Cam-o-matic wipers sweep further than regular and are controlled with a vacuum signal to the return cam in the vacuum motor. Needless to say, this was not accounted for in their "engineered for your application" motor and no amount of removing and repositioning the wiper arms fixed this, nor did adjusting the sweep of the motor. I say it's weak because the motor would not sweep across a dry windshield - my vacuum wipers do. A 55-57 Chevy motor would be a better investment if you can make it work, imo. Much stronger motor, though it would probably slap, too, considering Chevy didn't use the cam-o-matic system with their electric motor. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah gotcha didn't realize yours came with the cam o matic..I  was  always wondering if those would create a problem kinda figured it would... Mine has no problem with a dry windshield... My first car was a 59 Chevy truck that had the factory two speed electric set up.. Talk about powerful.. Low was about what you'd expect but high man I always thought my arms were going to fly off lol...I  had thought about using that set up on my Buick but didn't feel like trying to adapt it etc.

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

 running all my weekend errands in the Buick.... I go to leave the gas station and I guess the horn contact decided to suddenly start working and everytime I turn the steering wheel it's beeping..... ??

Oooooh auto horn thats a rare feature

  • Haha 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

After reading Willie's low-tech front shocks....  I wondered if these https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/monroe-load-adjusting-shock-absorber-58263/19710809-P?searchTerm=shocks

would have any positive affects on the handling?

 

What type of handling are you looking for?   There was one member that was manufacturing stiffer front sway bars that those who installed claimed to have made a big difference in body roll.  Not sure if he is making these sway bars any longer.   

 

Got a little way to go for this: 

 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

What type of handling are you looking for?   There was one member that was manufacturing stiffer front sway bars that those who installed claimed to have made a big difference in body roll.  Not sure if he is making these sway bars any longer.   

 

Got a little way to go for this: 

 

 from what I heard that guy just had enough made to justify the minimum order. I'm not looking for a race car or anything I was just curious what the Springs might help with

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, wndsofchng06 said:

 from what I heard that guy just had enough made to justify the minimum order. I'm not looking for a race car or anything I was just curious what the Springs might help with

 

The springs should help but may make the ride a bit harsher.  These may also raise the ride height was well.  Lower center of gravity reduces as a result.     

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Just to clarify, I have no problems with the ride currently.  with the exception of the one time I had 6 adults in the car.

 

A new set if rear coil springs will set you straight.   I had similar issue with my Special.  Butt dragging with a few people in the back.   Dropped in new coils.  Problem solved.   The coils can be had for about $60-90 depending on where you purchase the coils.    

 

https://www.1954buick.com/topic/2186-new-rear-coil-springs/#comment-12862

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

A new set if rear coil springs will set you straight.   I had similar issue with my Special.  Butt dragging with a few people in the back.   Dropped in new coils.  Problem solved.   The coils can be had for about $60-90 depending on where you purchase the coils.    

 

https://www.1954buick.com/topic/2186-new-rear-coil-springs/#comment-12862

adding more to the list.... starting to worry me...  If I put in the power steering, new springs, new front shocks, I might as well put in my 56 dynaflow and rear end while the car is down.  Then I still have carpet, headliner, fuel gauge to do, so I might as well get it painted, while it's down you know?   HA HA HA HA HA  it snowballs....  I'm not good at compartmentalizing these things.  I rationalize by doing everything at once and being done!  HA HA HA

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

adding more to the list.... starting to worry me...  If I put in the power steering, new springs, new front shocks, I might as well put in my 56 dynaflow and rear end while the car is down.  Then I still have carpet, headliner, fuel gauge to do, so I might as well get it painted, while it's down you know?   HA HA HA HA HA  it snowballs....  I'm not good at compartmentalizing these things.  I rationalize by doing everything at once and being done!  HA HA HA

 

Welcome to the hobby! 

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

adding more to the list.... starting to worry me...  If I put in the power steering, new springs, new front shocks, I might as well put in my 56 dynaflow and rear end while the car is down.  Then I still have carpet, headliner, fuel gauge to do, so I might as well get it painted, while it's down you know?   HA HA HA HA HA  it snowballs....  I'm not good at compartmentalizing these things.  I rationalize by doing everything at once and being done!  HA HA HA

But then I usually never get done and end up like Bernie, everything is a project.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I highly recommend a set of progressive springs. On my move out to the University, with a full load in the back seat and trunk, she still wasn't squatting. Also gave the car a really nice stance with the stock coils in the front. I think it was even avgwarhawk that turned me onto them in the first place.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Well... there's good and there's bad. I think those hydraulic switches were an incredibly stupid idea, because putting something that moves (at all) in the brake hydraulics is going to remove a little pedal travel, add a little sponginess, and add one more spot for a leak that could cause your brakes to get full of air.

 

On one particular car, when I went to retrieve it after buying it, the hydraulic switch shorted to ground and tried to burn the wiring. Fortunately I was standing there and just disconnected the battery. That could have been really bad. It sure wasn't confidence inspiring.

 

I have also heard people complaining that the hydraulic switches don't trip easy enough, and also complaining (as the guy in the video does) that they are incompatible with silicone fluid.

 

New replacement switches are available that trip easier. I believe they have an "L" suffix on the part number. They do have a more modern look, using the flower-shaped socket for removal that you would expect to see on an oil pressure switch. If you happen to need a hex-shaped one for authenticity you would be stuck with NOS, and the higher trip pressure that comes with it. Either way it wont trip as easily as a mechanical, which can be set to trip before the brakes even start to work.

 

I have heard that Harley Davidson uses pressure switches, and that they have been using silicone fluid for years. A genuine Harley switch might be a cure for that problem. I have not attempted to verify that, but it is a possibility to check out.

 

Mechanical switches are better, but I wouldn't mount it where he did. It should be under the dash. Maybe there was no other way on that Studebaker. I predict it wont last long under the car.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Except 54s don't have a hanging pedal...

I have the same problem, have replaced couple of time and won’t last long maybe because I’m using DOT 5 brake fluid. Using hand signals as an emergency situation won’t work with traffic around here. Let me know what you come up with. I will definitely investigate Bloo’s suggestion  about the Harley’s motorcycle switch. Will it fit as a replacement? I wonder

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Elpad said:

I have the same problem, have replaced couple of time and won’t last long maybe because I’m using DOT 5 brake fluid. Using hand signals as an emergency situation won’t work with traffic around here. Let me know what you come up with. I will definitely investigate Bloo’s suggestion  about the Harley’s motorcycle switch. Will it fit as a replacement? I wonder

 

You'll need to come up with something on the other side of the firewall/floorboard.  The issue will be keeping the switch dry...  Maybe there's a way to rig a cable to the pedal mechanism below the floor and then route the cable back through the firewall to a 'pull-on' switch mounted under the dash?

Link to post
Share on other sites

No pictures of the installation, but I adapted Ron Francis Wiring Lever Brake Switches SW68 at Summit Racing.

Mounted under the car for my added cruise control (stock switch and circuits canceled the cruise when turn signals used)...anyhow no issues since 2001.

Edited by old-tank
linked content did not work (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Seeing as how the 54s use a different pedal set up I'd go the route they showed on that Studebaker..I  had  an old 59 Chevy truck that used that set up from the factory.. Never had a problem with it or the original switch

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, got the pressure switch replaced for now, brake lights work without flooring the pedal... yay!  Adjusted and bled, added a tiny bit more fluid, ready to roll again.  Looking out my kitchen window, I can't help but think of a Jeff Foxworthy joke. 

20171231_131412.jpg

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

You'll need to come up with something on the other side of the firewall/floorboard.  The issue will be keeping the switch dry...  Maybe there's a way to rig a cable to the pedal mechanism below the floor and then route the cable back through the firewall to a 'pull-on' switch mounted under the dash?

Will try this first Ron Francis wiring part # SW-32 low pressure switch compatible with Silicone Fluid

946716E1-DCB5-4366-8869-0C8DC036677E.jpeg

Edited by Elpad (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Except 54s don't have a hanging pedal...

 

I forgot 56 was the only tri-5 Buick that had hanging pedals. The Studebaker solution would probably be your best bet then. You might just want to invent some type of splash guard. Living in a wet state like Washington, you have to be careful with wet roads and puddles. I'm sure North Carolina isn't quite like Washington, but still gets pretty wet from time to time.

 

I used to think the hydraulic switch worked great, until I got pulled over for no brake lights and had to prove they work by mashing the pedal. Checking at the house is very different from actual stop and go traffic.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Went driving again this weekend,  I noticed I need to lube the speedo cable as the speedo doesn't move at first then jumps way up, bounces, then normalizes.  Also, I am missing some coolant.  Each time I drive it, it takes about a half gallon.  Oil is normal, no smoke, but not seeing any big leaks either.  No fog or smell of coolant inside the car.  I do see that it's belching a little out the over flow .  I have the 7lb cap and 180 degree thermostat, but each time I use the car it takes about a half gallon to reach the "cold fill" line on the top tank.  Also noticed my starter is acting up.  I'll press the gas down two or three times where it will grunt, and on the third or fourth time it will spin and start.  I will first check all my connections and see.  Unfortunately some of my planned projects on her will need to wait as uncle sam's share that I owe for 2017 ended up being more than I expected.  Tax preparer says at my current income and deductions it will be $2k more next year!  UGH.:blink:  Guess I better get some dependents I can claim.........  on second thought, NAH!

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

not seeing any big leaks either. 

Fix all leaks, they add up.  If still using coolant pressure test the system.  You might have to pull the plugs for inspection.

Verify that the starter and solenoid are functioning as designed:  Jump 12v+ to the 10 gauge black wire from the solenoid at the  starter relay (be sure it is in Park or Neutral since the neutral safety switch is bypassed).  If it cranks normally, then jump across the leads to the starter switch on the carb (carefull, since these wires are not fuse protected)...if normal crank remove the switch and clean contacts...if abnormal look at the starter relay:  dress the contacts with a point file and if some rivets are corroded drill through the edge and install a small screw until you get a new one.

And keep working and paying taxes; old farts like me will thank you for the  entitlements. :D 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 5:27 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Unfortunately some of my planned projects on her will need to wait as uncle sam's share that I owe for 2017 ended up being more than I expected.  Tax preparer says at my current income and deductions it will be $2k more next year!  UGH.:blink:  Guess I better get some dependents I can claim........

 

Name your car and get a SS # for it.  That will help.

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Name your car and get a SS # for it.  That will help.

 

Don't mean to sound naive, but can you actually do this? :lol: Don't worry Matt, at least you won't get docked for not having health insurance.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...