NC-car-guy

1954 century sedan. GA to NC

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Got the rear axles out.  Of course autozone rear wheel seals are incorrect.  Returning those and ordered an inner and outer for each side from CARS.20170623_195126.thumb.jpg.ceef2b39cc8431b3449108172325cdaf.jpg20170623_195255.thumb.jpg.845b348226e224ef19ccf7b535d7ad09.jpg

autozone seal is orange..

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Sadly OCD is kicking in and I'm finding more and more to do.   So how does one "test " rear shocks.  I know Willie has a blurb about rebuilding them.  Mine are real stiff but smooth, they don't  seems to return on their own though.... should they?

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5 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

 Mine are real stiff but smooth, they don't  seems to return on their own though

Working as designed.  Top off the fluid and tolerate small leaks if present.

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20 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Working as designed.  Top off the fluid and tolerate small leaks if present.

Thats good, since now I have to buy wheel bearings.  Fķng bearing puller slipped and bent the cage...  ugh!

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Does anyone know where to find this fuel line?  Goes from the pump to the frame.

I'm  thinking of just clamping a rubber line on,  but thought I'd try to get the original first. 

20170624_111921.jpg

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Replacements are likely to be old type, non ethanol compliant line. I used an end of a brake line on the pump and just put a piece of hose over with clamps. 

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I had mine built by a hydraulic shop and hasn't leaked since. It's not braided steel like original, but it works. If I were to do it again, it would be rubber hose and some good barb fittings. CARS sells the line but you'd have to call and see if it's ethanol safe. 

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If you want something completely bulletproof in ethanol-laced gas, look for "SAE 30R9" rated fuel hose. Oreilly has it in little blisterpacks hanging out in the store. It doesnt say so on the package, but the package is made so you can open it and look. It is rather expensive.

 

This is generally used with fuel-injection style (non-extruding) clamps. They also have clamps.

 

I suspect this is complete overkill for the supply side of a mechanical fuel pump for a carburetor. This hose is intended for high pressure fuel injection systems.

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Use appropriate barb fitting and assemble with band clamps that can be clocked so as not to look too ugly.

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20170701_122703.jpgAnyone got the secret to separating the drive shaft and pinion so I can install the new seal?  

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)

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Don't change the pinion seal (and you cannot change the pinion seal) unless the rear axle assembly is removed, disassembled and the driveshaft is removed from the pinion.  Even with a leaking pinion seal the rear gear oil will find a level inside the torque tube below the driveshaft (drill a hole back there to monitor for auto tranny fluid if dynaflow).  Only change the axle seals, outer torque ball retainer and the seal at the front of the torque tube.

IF you do need to separate the driveshaft from the pinion , see my website ( and I will loan the tool if needed).

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Thanks!  I was trying to change the gasket between the tube and the carrier.  I gave up, covered the old one in rtv and put it back.  Also got the carrier to axle housing gasket changed.  Now the rear bearings are in the freezer for install tomorrow.

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No need for a freezer.  The bearings will gently tap into the housing...that way you can pack them with grease real well.

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Good to know,  still stopping for today.  I'm tired,  and pretty sure I've popped a hernia...

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And for anyone needing to change all this gaskets, if I had to again, I'd def pull the whole rear.

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I was told doing a torque tube puts hair on a man's chest. We all do it at some point! lol At least you had a garage to do yours in. Nothing makes it worse than nail biting a 24 hour rear end job, hoping the rains don't come.

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2 minutes ago, Beemon said:

I was told doing a torque tube puts hair on a man's chest. We all do it at some point! lol At least you had a garage to do yours in. Nothing makes it worse than nail biting a 24 hour rear end job, hoping the rains don't come.

Between your story and the last 14 years since I had  one of these cars on the road,  one thing is sure.  I will not have another unless I hit the lotto and can afford to let someone else struggle with it! 

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Got the whole diff and axle put back together..20170702_171334.thumb.jpg.9c14873a24965e66c210a75d86befcc7.jpg

Started putting the brakes back on,  realized I had the wrong shoes....  ugh.  Autozone is now 0 for 2! I'll see if i can locate correct shoes tomorrow,  then put the gas tank back in... getting closer.

 

Edit: maybe not autozone's fault. Aren't the brake shoes 2.25 on the rear for century usually?   Turns out mine are 1.75.  I cant find a listing for 1.75 even when I searched for a special....  any help? 

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Turns out mine are 1.75.  I cant find a listing for 1.75 even when I searched for a special....  any help? 

 

Chevy?  Sounds like my '56 Bel Air:

 

Brake Shoe Width 1.82 IN
Mounting Hardware Included No
Friction Material Bonding Type Bonded
Drum Inside Diameter 11.0
 

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3 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Got the whole diff and axle put back together..20170702_171334.thumb.jpg.9c14873a24965e66c210a75d86befcc7.jpg

Started putting the brakes back on,  realized I had the wrong shoes....  ugh.  Autozone is now 0 for 2! I'll see if i can locate correct shoes tomorrow,  then put the gas tank back in... getting closer.

 

Edit: maybe not autozone's fault. Aren't the brake shoes 2.25 on the rear for century usually?   Turns out mine are 1.75.  I cant find a listing for 1.75 even when I searched for a special....  any help? 

I did not have any luck with multiple suppliers when I was doing the Roadmaster brakes that are wider.

I went all school and found me a truck brake shop that re-lined shoes into my original casings. Work perfectly.

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On 7/2/2017 at 4:50 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Got the whole diff and axle put back together..20170702_171334.thumb.jpg.9c14873a24965e66c210a75d86befcc7.jpg

Started putting the brakes back on,  realized I had the wrong shoes....  ugh.  Autozone is now 0 for 2! I'll see if i can locate correct shoes tomorrow,  then put the gas tank back in... getting closer.

 

Edit: maybe not autozone's fault. Aren't the brake shoes 2.25 on the rear for century usually?   Turns out mine are 1.75.  I cant find a listing for 1.75 even when I searched for a special....  any help? 

Suggest you measure the inside width of the drum where the shoe rides. I'd guess folks have put shoes not quite as wide as original sometimes because correct width was unavailable and wanted some brakes that were better than none.

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Fuel tank in, with a ground to the frame and new sending unit wire.  Replaced two exhaust hangers, put the master cylinder back in, and mounted the new fuel pump. 20170704_142127.thumb.jpg.e71bc2626335cd5249b0cd72635b8294.jpg20170704_153716.thumb.jpg.9661f80bd530d1857b0fc36f2ce92610.jpg Fixed the license plate light connector (bakelite was broken) with some jb weld and electric tape. 20170704_141841.thumb.jpg.74f2fb12d6d7c5f85bacf92078607211.jpgPretty productive 4th!  Now off to the bar for beer and free hot dogs to celebrate! 

P.s. NOS tires anyone?

20170704_135614.thumb.jpg.11976fe1dcc0af5e6f04e6bba4341b66.jpg

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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You could always scarce up some later backing plates to upgrade your surface area. Great work with the car, Matt! You're probably just waiting on radiator now, huh.

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