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1960 Buick Electra


avgwarhawk
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3 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

Clocks are easy to fix.  There are a set of points in it that get corroded.  Blow the dust out, oil lightly and clean the points.  Chances are it will work again.

 

Bill, I took a quick look a week or so ago.  First place of course was looking at the fuse.  Trusty test light found power on one side and not the other.  But, the fuse inside looked ok.  No matter.  Went to replace it. As I worked on removing the fuse power was found through the fuse and clock was working.   Of course humans being humans we adjust our clocks to the correct time.  It was at this juncture the clock stopped again.  I did not recheck the fuse at that time.  I had a laundry list of items to tend to.   I will tackle the fuse once again.  If it test good the clock will come out for a clean and oiling.

 

Thanks for the tip!     

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New set of Coker 2 1/2 WW bias ply on the rear installed this weekend.  There is no doubt the US Royals have been on the Buick for quite some time.      Repacked the front wheel bearings. I like a bit more bearing grease then what was there.    Inspected all brake components.  All return springs, cylinders, hard lines, shoes and master have less than 600 miles on them.  Good to go.   

 

Wrap this up with a new fuel pump and carb rebuild.  Look into the heater core/valve at the end of summer.

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On ‎4‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 1:59 PM, avgwarhawk said:

  Look into the heater core/valve at the end of summer.

 

Actually, that leak could cost you significant temperature issues during the summer.  Are you going to by-pass the heater altogether for now?

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15 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

Did you check your brake lines too ?  I ask as I found a bubble in mine.

 

 

The entire brake system has been replaced.  All rubber hoses, metal lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, return springs and shoes.  I have pulled and inspected all drums.  No leaking in the rear wheel seals.  New seals on the drums up front.   She stop very well for 2 tons of vehicle.   

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12 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Actually, that leak could cost you significant temperature issues during the summer.  Are you going to by-pass the heater altogether for now?

 

The cooling systems does keep pressure when running at operating temperature.  My diagnosis as a result of pressure in the system while hot is the control valve is working and a leak at the core when valve is open.  What is odd is when the heat is first switched I get the faint smell of antifreeze.  It dissipates very quickly and no issue after that.   I drove the Buick about 60 miles  in 80+ degree weather this past weekend.  No over hearting.  At any rate, I will leave it as it stands for now and pull down the heating box at the end of the summer.

 

  

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New fuel pump on.  The rubber fuel hose from pump to the hard line was on the way out.  One stiff tug and it came apart.  The hard fuel line was in great shape.  The hose clamp at the hard line connection at the frame is a unique design.  It has a hook type design that hooks to the clamp to the frame so if the rubber line was pulled for whatever reason the hook on the clamp would keep the rubber line from pulling off the hard line.

I guess it would be prudent to check the rubber hose in the tank area.             

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2017-04-21 at 2:57 AM, avgwarhawk said:

Spending time with the 60.   Clock is running like a well oiled watch.  Ummmmm......it's running.

 

 

Hmm. Mine has stopped at 5 to 4, need to take a look at that..... some day. Awsome looking clock that deserves to work like... a clock

 

 

Edited by LeCat (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

It was time to pull the carburetor for a rebuild.  Hesitation and flat spots.    I found the channel under the carburetor loaded with carbon flaky powdery nastiness.  It was good and clogged.  Removed that bit of nasty crap.  The entire carburetor was well covered by years of gook and grime.  Other than the clogged passages under the carb the La Brea Tar Pits sludge covering the carb as well as inside the carb was cleaned out.   After inspecting when the cleaning as done I made the decision to reinstall and see what she runs like.  The engine idles fine.  Performance as fine.  Just that annoying hesitation and flat spot that would rear it's ugly head when it felt like it.   Further, the accelerator pump squirted gas as design.  

 

So, call me crazy or call me a tow truck I reinstalled.  Much to my surprise the carburetor performed flawlessly.  So screw it.  I drove on....

 

 

IMAG0051_zpsptyox5rx.jpg      

 

IMAG0048_zpsvwocrqra.jpg     

 

IMAG0049_zpsfn5vfl4o.jpg  

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Those rochesters are infamous for the bog.  I have given up on several of them and just dealt with it.

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3 hours ago, Smartin said:

Those rochesters are infamous for the bog.  I have given up on several of them and just dealt with it.

She was bogging quite a bit. Feather the pedal when accelerating from a stoplight. Bog when accelerating at speed. After clean up the bog is just about nonexistent. Much improved and more positive/responsive when pressing the gas pedal. When the secondary open she really moves. I'm pleased with the results. 

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On 2017-4-12 at 6:17 PM, avgwarhawk said:

I feel like Johnny Cash. One piece at a time.  

 

Out with the old and in with the new..

 

WP_20170412_002_zpsofh8t7ez.jpg

 

WP_20170412_004_zps2hqwzdl9.jpg

 

Just a question / comment.

When I had my car up on the hoist and my mechanic looked at these, he said that they were installed upside down.

It has a long time ago when they were replaced and can't remember if I did them or the mechanic at that time did them. His rational was that if you went over something a bit high those threads would catch and either bend them or break off....

Have you noticed how they are on any other of your cars?

My other cars are not handy close by to look and besides, it's not the getting down to look that comes into play, it's the getting back up. :blink:

 

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4 hours ago, dei said:

 

Just a question / comment.

When I had my car up on the hoist and my mechanic looked at these, he said that they were installed upside down.

It has a long time ago when they were replaced and can't remember if I did them or the mechanic at that time did them. His rational was that if you went over something a bit high those threads would catch and either bend them or break off....

Have you noticed how they are on any other of your cars?

My other cars are not handy close by to look and besides, it's not the getting down to look that comes into play, it's the getting back up. :blink:

 

 

My 60 is unmolested. The original link kits that I removed where installed just as you see the new link kits in the pictures. Also, at the top of the link kit, if the threaded portion was in that position when installed it could possibly rub the frame. 

 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, dei said:

it's not the getting down to look that comes into play, it's the getting back up. :blink:

Time to get back down anyway.  The rubber grommets are not compressed enough.  Those links are to be installed until the nut bottoms on the rod threads  On some replacements new threads may need to be cut.

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On 4/8/2017 at 11:08 PM, avgwarhawk said:

 

The ride height remained the same.  She sits level.  The rear with no one in the back seat would bottom out/hit the rubber bumpers with the old springs. Some sagging.   I have always done well with the progressive coils.  The ride is the same as the old coils.  A bit less body roll. 

 

The front coils are fine and will remain. Shocks will be replaced. 

What's the theory behind progressive springs?  I'm guessing that the first several hundred pounds is carried by the light weight end of the spring and as the weight increases, the lightweight end is nearly fully compressed and the heavy weight end of the spring takes over.  In other words, the soft ride first progressing to more firmness as the weigh increases.  Am I close?

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21 hours ago, kgreen said:

What's the theory behind progressive springs?  I'm guessing that the first several hundred pounds is carried by the light weight end of the spring and as the weight increases, the lightweight end is nearly fully compressed and the heavy weight end of the spring takes over.  In other words, the soft ride first progressing to more firmness as the weigh increases.  Am I close?

 

Yes!  

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  • 3 months later...

Had a hearter core leaking issue.  Not a large leak but some fog on the windows in cool weather and smell of antifreeze.   I pulled the heater core assemble. 

 

IMAG0385_zpskq0qsjfl.jpg  

 

 

When taking the assembly apart I found that the assembly had been removed at one time as the tell tale signs were evident.  The core was found to be in good shape.  It appears the control valve was leaking some. 

 

IMAG0389_zpsf0wpafsc.jpg  

 

Upon removing the control valve...which should take no less than 30 seconds was a bit more for me.  The one stud of the three spun as the nut was turned for removal.  Dremel tool to the rescue.   The core had quite a bit of  scale.  I used a dilute potion of muriatic acid and water.   Passages free flowed much batter after a short sit of a few minutes. I rinsed and rinsed to assure the acid was gone and then added a solution of baking soda.  Rinsed and repeated with the rinse.

 

The next task was locating a valve ready to go or send in my valve plus $$$$$$$ to have it repaired.   Good old Harrison:

 

IMAG0394_zpstlel6l4i.jpg  

 

I was able to find a Harrison for a 60 Chevy.   It is one and the same with exception of  the replacement had the smaller diameter tube and I had to move my copper thermal coil to the replacement.  I cut my own gasket for the valve as well as a gasket for the area between the firewall and core assembly.  

 

Once assembled it made sense to me to hook up the valve/core assemble and let the 401 fill it with hot water/antifreeze and check for leaks.  I don't have a radiator pressure tester.     

 

IMAG0399_zpswwud5x8j.jpg  

 

IMAG0400_zpsr4gionh5.jpg

 

 

It was found to be leak free, got hot and ready for install after my test.   Reassembly took about 45 minutes.  Job done. 

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1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:

 I don't have a radiator pressure tester. 

 

You can fashion one from a couple of pieces of heater hose and a tee:

- Connect one end of each piece of hose to the core.

- Connect the other end of each piece of hose to the tee.

- Submerge the core, then stick the tip of an air nozzle into the tee, pressurize, and look for bubbles.

 

If you want to go a step further, you can put a schrader valve on the tee so you can pump it up once and do a leak-down test.

Edited by KongaMan (see edit history)
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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
2 hours ago, Beemon said:

I would put one or two more in line just as a back up. There's a lot of force in the cable when you ratchet it down with the parking brake peddle.

No need. There are new direct replacement cable available. This device was installed by the previous owner.  Took no time at all to remove and replace. Fortunately the front cable to the pedal is not overstretched. It's even more fortunate new parts like this are available.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got to the wing window crank issue. It is  raining cats and dogs here in MD so what a better time then to dig into a window crank issue right?  Right!!   When I purchased the 60 the crank was in the glove box.  Owner said he could got get it to stay in place.  Investigating the shaft in the door, it had pushed through for some reason.    

 

I disassembled the door card to get at the inner workings of the door.  Fairly simple with correct tools to disengage the small pins that hold the outer edge of the door card secure.  Just a few. The rest are screws.  Proper tool to disengage the large window crank handle is always a plus.  Upon investigating the issue, the shaft that the crank is secured simply pushed through the housing and was found inside at the bottom of the door.  As I fiddled and searched I found other odds and ends to the gear mechanism that operates the wing window.  Fished out a backing plate,  washer and spring type washer.  No idea how it fell apart....not until I slipped in the shaft with worm gear.  As I cranked it slowly backs itself out.  So, what holds it in place?  The nice backing plate found in the bottom of the door of course.  Question is, how is the plate secured so the worm gear does not work it's way out?  No screws found in the door with the other pieces of the mechanism.   I had to remove the entire assemble.   Easy enough.  One bolt that holds the glass frame to the housing.  Three screws that secure the housing to the door.     

 

Here are the puzzle pieces:

BhLUrTE.jpg        

 

 

 

 

I found the grease inside was stiff as a board. More than likely the cause for allowing the gear to push it's way out deforming the pressed metal that holds the back plate in place.  I discovered this after a few attempts.  I cleaned off the old hardened grease.  Applied new lube and the entire mechanism cooperated much better.  

 

Pictured here is the securing forms for the backing plate that hold the worm gear in the housing.  

 

pYY8PaI.jpg  

 

 

I assemble the mechanism with the washer at the end of the worm gear inside the housing. The spring type washer at the front of the housing.  The two towers of metal that hold the plate in place I simply used a punch and hammer(lightly) to deform it and compress the plate to the housing.  It is not beautiful  and does not need to be.  It only needs to hold the plate in place so the worm gear does not worm it's way out.

 

3gMRinF.jpg 

 

Reassembled the door card.  Window crank went in without issue.

 

hF4VvaN.jpg

 

 

Wing window is now open for business. 

 

lJDs5KQ.jpg

 

 

 

   

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12 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

I simply used a punch and hammer(lightly) to deform it and compress the plate to the housing. 

 

That's it -- the plate was riveted (actually swedged) on, using the posts cast onto the housing.  The posts must either have originally not been flattened enough, or maybe too much (leaving the 'head' too thin).  Good fix!  ;)

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5 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

That's it -- the plate was riveted (actually swedged) on, using the posts cast onto the housing.  The posts must either have originally not been flattened enough, or maybe too much (leaving the 'head' too thin).  Good fix!  ;)

Quite possibly flattened enough but the hardened grease and worm gear action it found the path of least resistance.  That path was pushing the plate off. Then again the posts had little to no deformity from swedging.  I took care of that with a hammer. 

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4 hours ago, old-tank said:

On some of my 55's there was not enough material to swedge back over.  So I drilled and tapped for a screw.

That was my next trick up my sleeve. After new grease, the worm gear wanting to push out the back plate instead of turning the window stopped. If it fails again I'll use screws. 

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Thanks for this explanation. I've always wondered why my wing window cranks always screwed into the door card until I pulled out both wing windows recently and discovered there weren't any backing plates. Assuming 56 is similar to 60, now I know what to look for and what to do!

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21 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Thanks for this explanation. I've always wondered why my wing window cranks always screwed into the door card until I pulled out both wing windows recently and discovered there weren't any backing plates. Assuming 56 is similar to 60, now I know what to look for and what to do!

Will said the 55 are similar.  Yours should be as well. Let us know what you find with yours. 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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