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more questions...ordered 2 balljoints from rockauto...they send me 2 different ones...one with a smaller diameter and the grove slightly off, the other one with the correct diameter, correct grove but with a hex head...

question...can I use the one with the hex? at this point, I am not sure...

need a quick reply car is on jacks and I need if for my job...

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You need a second car,  an almost 30 year old TC as a DD?  Hmmmm.  I like the hex units, they are easier to align the bolt notch.  Tho they look like they don't line up with eachother I think they insert into the control arm slightly different depths(because the stop shoulder is in a different spot) which allows them to project the same amount from the arm into the spindle and the pinch bolt.  I can't help but wonder how you got the factory units out with the control arms in the car?. I've had to grind out the factory stay welds, use a press to get the old ones out and the new ones in...

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I am saying they WILL work and tho they look different than eachother, will act the same installed..  The critical thing is how far the joint pintle (the stud with the bolt groove/notch) projects thru the control arm and subsequently into the spindle(where they are captured and held by the 18mm on one end and 15mm on the other ball joint bolt). It's unfortunate Rock sent you different pieces but I believe they will still work.

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well...since I am originally from germany, I never had to deal with illogical measurements and can only really live with metrics...(no offense please!)

so...It will not work...the "new" balljoint I ordered today will be the same wrong measurement and I have no idea where to get the correct ones...

that just made my day...

thanks for letting me know - I did not know there would be an issue...do you have any idea where to get the correct ones? I despise autozone parts...but if thats the last resort, so be it..

Edited by shelbyone (see edit history)
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update...went to certified parts AND autozone and looked at every single ball joint for the TC, Lebaron, Dynasty, New Yorker..they mostly have the same part numbers and are interchangable and they all feature a slighly wider gap..therefore, I will install the one I have and see what happens. Looks like nobody was able to find an exact match!

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I have done ball joints in the car using the C-clamp style tools. It works, but it's not easy or fun. I have only seen the retention welds on one car I've owned (and I've had a few)...it was on the Masi! LOL I know by reports other TM's had it as well, but that's been *my* experience (YMMV...obviously).

 

Keep in mind that comparing a worn ball joint to a new one isn't very effective since the worn one has been pounded on its entire life and might not appear the same as a new one.

 

I make sure that the shank on the joint housing is the correct diameter, and that the circlip groove is the correct height. Then I make sure the diameter of the "pintle" (as TwinCamFan calls it) is right and that the pinch bolt notch is the right size for the bolt (later cars used a bigger bolt). Remember that the pinch bolt and the friction of the upright being clamped around the pintle is what keeps the thing in place. The ball joint could be a meter tall, as long as it fit the upright and the pinch bolt fit...it'll "work".

 

*IF* one side does end up "higher" than the other, the worst that will happen is that it will preload the anti-roll bar and could cause the car to handle a little funky (I very seriously doubt you'd notice it and/or that it would cause a "dangerous" condition considering the very small difference we are talking about here). The reason is that what *actually* will happen is that the control arm end will be pushed down a little.

 

Absolutely make sure to install the circlip, however.

 

Dunno if that's helpful, but I hope somehow it is.

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