finzel Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 going to non ABS. any suggestions ? have 2 week old accum. paid 280 . jag and gm part no. will sell BO dave 2137753227 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I posted in the other thread also. If you put 12V and ground on the motor contacts and the motor just clicked, your pump motor is bad. I have tested good working used pump/motors available. I would not convert to non ABS as changing the pump/motor is a far easier job and since you already have a new accumulator you should be good for a long time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finzel Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 48 minutes ago, Jim said: I posted in the other thread also. If you put 12V and ground on the motor contacts and the motor just clicked, your pump motor is bad. I have tested good working used pump/motors available. I would not convert to non ABS as changing the pump/motor is a far easier job and since you already have a new accumulator you should be good for a long time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finzel Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 rebilt ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dashmaster Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Finzel, Jim said Good Used Pumps and Motors. I purchased Pump and Motor from Jim about 2 years ago, I have not have had any problems with what I got. If you get one from Jim, ask if it has the pressure switch on it, if not you will need to remove the one from you current unit. Removing the pressure switch can be hard. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 I sell good used pressure switches separate from good used pump/motors. just a side note, I always test my pumps, accumulators and pressure switches on my personal car but the last year or so I have been taking exchanges on my pump/motors as sometimes the motors go bad and sometimes the pumps go bad. I can combine good pumps with good motors. Yesterday I made a bench test setup for testing pressure switches and pumps and motors. I wired up the whole assembly and added a red low pressure light and a high pressure light to make sure the pressure switches worked in all functions. After building up the 2600 pounds of pressure I knew I needed a way to release that pressure since the test set up is not connected to a master cylinder. I put a ball valve on the line coming out of the pump that normally goes to the master cylinder and after a successful test of the motor, pump and switch I proceeded to release the pressure and in doing so the high pressure blasted out not only from the output of the ball valve but from both side of where the handle turns the ball. I got a good spray of brake fluid all over me and everything else. I guess i have to find a better way of relieving the pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 finzel I received your email and you had my email address correct and it appeared your email address xxxxx@charter.net was good but in trying two times it bounced back to me with reference to xxxlloyd@aol.com I don't understand at all. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 You need a high pressure needle valve for pressure relief to be able to cycle to the pump. There isn't much volume so a very small valve will work fine and the needle type allows fine control. The packing nut may need to be tightened beyond the stock level. Also, be sure to install the valve so the packing and stem isn't under pressure at all times, it needs to be on the downstream side. I have a rig I made for testing on the car and it dumps back to the reservoir but I can't find my pic right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Nothing wrong with a relief valve but it is much larger, and more expensive than needed. For Jim's purpose a bleed off valve that is manually adjustable is all he needs. Easy to use, after pressure comes up and turns off the pump, just crack the valve and let the pressure bleed down to where the pump kicks on again. It can be left cracked open to let the system cycle on and off. A 1/4" npt size is all that is needed. A high pressure tee would be a good idea too. Something more like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=16on8hm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Nothing wrong with a relief valve but it is much larger, and more expensive than needed. For Jim's purpose a bleed off valve that is manually adjustable is all he needs. Easy to use, after pressure comes up and turns off the pump, just crack the valve and let the pressure bleed down to where the pump kicks on again. It can be left cracked open to let the system cycle on and off. A 1/4" npt size is all that is needed. A high pressure tee would be a good idea too. Something more like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=16on8hm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Nothing wrong with a relief valve but it is much larger, and more expensive than needed. For Jim's purpose a bleed off valve that is manually adjustable is all he needs. Easy to use, after pressure comes up and turns off the pump, just crack the valve and let the pressure bleed down to where the pump kicks on again. It can be left cracked open to let the system cycle on and off. A 1/4" npt size is all that is needed. A high pressure tee would be a good idea too. Something more like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=16on8hm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Both very good suggestions. I will look into them. Thank you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Perhaps I do not understand Jim's setup as mine is for use on the car? What I suggested is like this pic. $25.56 + shipping. I only used Mcmaster for an example and I would guess similar could be had for less elsewhere. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Never thought about flushing the reservoir? Good idea. Sorry about the photo quality. I ran out to take a pic and was just about to sneeze 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Better photo of the brake pump tester. The valve is from my parts drawer so it isn't as heavy duty as it should be, but it works fine and the brass tee is a high pressure type. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 I don't think any part of the brake system would be happy with any sort of petroleum product, or silicone for that matter on the Teves system. I would only recommend running fresh brake fluid through the system. I had heard some time ago about fluid available in different colors to be able to see when the flush was complete, but I never looked in to that. JMHO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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