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1930 series 40 Steering Wheel Removal


tomsupon1

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Hi all. I am trying to remove my steering wheel. I am down to the nut and have tried to remove it (I tried in both directions in case it is bake wards threads) with no luck. I was using the front wheel stops to hold it in place while trying to remove the nut. Is there anything I need to know before I use a cheater bar on the ratchet?  Don't want to break anything. 

Also on the control levers I have three plugs (one found in the open area of the steering wheel).  My parts manual states there should be 4 of these. They are not magnetic so are they made of brass?  Do the springs go between the two plugs for each lever?

Thanks for your insight in advance. 

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I'm not sure about a 1930, but on a 1932 you want to remove the tubes, leave the nut on the threads, but not tight against the wheel.  put a metal piece over the nut and let the center of the puller push against this metal piece.  It is very easy to damage the threads on the steering shaft.

 

Bob Engle 

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Thank you Bob for your reply. Am I correct to assume that once I have the cams off at the bottom of the steering column the tubes will pull out?

Fred thanks for your insight as well. Were you able to locate any of the correct size plastic or fiber rods?  And I hope Bob's comment helps you out as well. 

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Hey Bob I used a deep well socket over the nut but still having problems finding a puller that will reach around the steering wheel and grasp the lip on the bottom. Do you have one and if so do you have a PN and where purchased?  I tried using pieces of flat stock steel and bolts but it didn't work. 

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Sorry I can't help.  32 Buicks had the steering wheel held onto a hub by filister head screws.  Removing these screws allowed the steering wheel to be removed and then a puller could be attached to the threaded holes in the hub and pushed against center nut to pull the hub.

 

An old trick used to remove steering wheels without the use of a puller was to put block of wood on the floor so  your feet and  thighs can press up against the steering wheel and then with pressure on the wheel, use a piece of wood against the nut and hit it with a hammer.  The spline is tapered and once it breaks loose, it comes off easily.

 

It worked most of the time in the 50's for steering wheel removal.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

 

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Hey Bob. Thanks for your repost. It worked using a piece of 2x4 and a rubber dead blow hammer. The wheel is off, thanks. Now I need to work on getting the outer column off and to the powder coating shop. Again thanks and any words of wisdom for the column tube removal?

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I can't be specific as I am only familiar with 32's.  I think you will need to remove the driverside toe board.  There is probably a bracket attached to the wood frame under the dash that will need to be disconnected.  Disconnect the steering gear arm and the assembly should be free to come out of the car.  The 32's have a steering column lock so you must remove the key lock assembly. The bottom end of the tube is a slip fit into the large nut with a clamp bolt that need to be loosened.  The column should then be ready to slide off the steering shaft.  

 

I wish I could be more specific on a 1930 car.

 

Bob Engle

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Hi again Bob. I have the outer column tube off now but in one of your previous posts you mentioned that this tube is a slip fit into the nut on the bottom. Now I see why it was not able to be rotated. It has been staked in four places inside the nut. Should I remove the stakes so the tube is free to move as you mentioned so that I can adjust the placement of the steering bracket to the dash bolts without messing with the adjustment for free play on the bearings below the nut? I have attached some pictures showing the column jacket and the nut. 

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I have not seen  a tube staked to the nut.  I suspect that the staking was to prevent the tube from moving out of the nut but still allowed the tube to spin in the nut.  To properly restore the tube, you will want to remove it from the nut.  You can then decide whether to restake the tube.  I would definitely make sure the tube can spin in the nut so you get proper alignment of the tube to the mounting bracket.

 

Bob Engle

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