Gary W

1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

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Hello Riviera!  Great to hear from you!


*****(Sorry for the delay....  I was literally posting this Monday night and as I was proofreading....  Out went the lights.  They JUST came back on tonight!)*****



.....  and some answers for you:


1)  OIL: I use  "TORCO" brand,  TR-1(R)  10W-40.  I've been using this in my cars for years.  I buy it by the case and do all the cars at once.  

2)  FILTER: I'm not going to install an oil filter to the engine.  I faithfully change my oil every 500 miles or once a year.  It may sound wasteful, but I just like knowing I'm running fresh, clean oil.

3)  WAX:  Bob (my painter) turned me on to a product called "Collinite".  That's what I used for the show this time.  I have some favorites I've used through the years with successful results.

4)  TIRES: I love the way my bias tires look and I'm very satisfied with the ride.  The car drives beautifully!  


Some Photos:  (of course!)




Once I drained the break-in oil out of the engine, I filled it with this Torco TR-1(R).

I also use this oil in my Model "A"'s and the Model "T"




These have always been my "go-to" waxes of choice.  I like the Zymol, especially their "carbon black" but it was getting very expensive.




I've been a long time customer of Griot's Garage, and use their products constantly.

Their rubber cleaner and tire dressings make the wide whites just beautiful.




This is what Bob recommended .  Collinite No. 476S.

And he told me "never rub in circles!"  Always nice easy lines.




They're in Utica, NY for anyone interested.




The 1940 Buick at the show had radials.  Maybe they drive nicer, maybe they handle better....





But I still like the wide, four-inch white wall that the bias tires have.  

In my humble opinion, the bias tires just look more "period correct"  and I'm very happy with the ride.

Of course, I haven't driven another Buick of the same vintage with radials to compare the handling properties, so I'll leave it at that.  Aesthetics.


Thanks for checking in!



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Wednesday September 11, 2019:  Oil Pump Replacement



I now have 850 miles on the Buick, and she's running better everyday, but I've been constantly worried about the oil pressure.

 I've been following other threads and other discussions regarding the proper oil pressure, and I was never convinced my engine was getting the oil pressure Buick specified.

I do tend to obsess over everything, but this turned out to be a good one.


My car would immediately produce 38 psi at start up, cold oil.  After only a five minute idle, it would fall to about 28 - 30 psi.  

At speed, she would maintain about 25 pounds, but Buick specifies 45 psi.


But when it was hot, and sitting at a light, the actual oil pressure dropped to zero.  Literally dropped down to nothing.

This situation has been haunting me since day one, so I purchased another 1937 Buick oil pump from Dave Tachney and sent it to Egge for a rebuild.


This morning I got the time to swap out my original pump with the rebuild, and the difference is already noticeable .


I'd like to show how I did it step-by-step, as I get a lot of private messages and e-mails about this very subject.


ALSO....  I have to thank Mr. Art Sommers for graciously allowing me use of his lift!  The job took a little more than an hour to accomplish and that's because we were able to lift the car.


Here goes:



I disconnected my oil pressure dash gauge and replaced it with this gauge right on the block.

This way I can be sure that my low readings were not simply a bad dash gauge.

This photo is the car idling after a 20 mile drive on a fairly hot day.  The oil pressure at idle when hot is ZERO.

My dash gauge also showed zero, but I thought the dash gauge had to be off a bit.  It wasn't.



So, here is the step - by - step for anyone contemplating the job:




On the lift, my buddy John (now 89 years old) talking with Art Sommers.

1. Remove the dipstick

2. Drain the oil




3. Remove the flywheel cover pan.




4. Remove the 9/16" bolts that hold the front stabilizer to the frame.  Release the brackets to allow the bar a little movement.

Leave it attached to the front end.




5. Remove all 32 pan bolts.  A couple well placed taps on a screwdriver will release the pan.

6. Turn the flywheel so the crank journal up front is horizontal.

7. Jiggle pan down while pulling on the loosened stabilizer to get the clearance you need.

8. Remove two bolts to release the oil pump from the block.




Hard to see in low-res photos, but there is a little very, very fine metal "dust" in the pan.  (Those black chunks are gasket pieces that fell in on removal)

So, I guess with new pistons, new rings and the first 850 miles, there was a little metal scrapings in the pan.




9. Scrape all gasket material from pan and block.

10. Clean interior of pan of all foreign material




11. With a hammer, flatten all "bulging" areas around the mounting bolt holes so the pan sits nice and flush on the block.

12. I used a small amount of permatex black to tack the new pan gasket to the pan so it wouldn't slide around on installation.




13.  Pour oil into the new-rebuilt oil pump to fill it and "prime" it.  You can feel the resistance of the gears when it fills with oil.

14.  Install the oil pump gasket and look up at the position of the slot in the distributor shaft that the oil pump mates to.

15. Line up the slot, groove and bolt the pump in.

Here, I turned the flywheel by hand and watched the oil pump shaft turn to confirm she was seated properly.

16.  Again, with the crankshaft horizontal up front, and the new gasket lined up, seat the oil pan and begin installing 32 pan bolts.

(Your block is scraped clean and wiped off for the new gasket)

17. Install the flywheel cover pan

18. Replace the front stabilizer mounting brackets on to the frame

19.  Pour 6 - 7 quarts of oil back in the motor

20.  Replace the dipstick.




Start her up!

Now, on cold start, she jumped right up to 58 pounds!




After about 5 - 7 minutes idling to check for oil leaks....... Engine was warm and holding steady at 20 pounds.


I drove her home, about a ten mile drive in today's 88 degree heat and when I got home I let it set in the driveway and idle.

This was now all warmed up, engine hot, and super low idle and the pump is holding 10 pounds where she used to be zero.


I feel a lot better about replacing that unit.  I'm going to send my original out for rebuild next to have a spare.


Have a great night out there!









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Good job, glad you did this before accumulating too much mileage. I had the exact same issue 25 years ago after rebuilding my 38 Special engine which had 20-25 lbs at 50MPH and 2-3 lbs at idle when hot.  Your description is step for step what I did but I bought a rebuilt pump. Now, on cold start it goes to 45 lbs and stays there until the oil gets hot when it drops to 30-35 lbs at 50MPH and 10 lbs at idle. 


There is a relief spring in the pump that I think limits the max. pressure to 45 lbs but your pump seems to go higher. Was your pump rebuilt to factory specs or was the relief pressure increased? I suspect your pump is correct as my daily driver, a 2012  Cadillac

CTS-V, shows 55-60 lbs cold and drops to 40-45 lbs hot and 20-25 lbs at idle (idle RPM is faster than on the Buick) which is closer to what your pressure characteristic shows.  


Steve D



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 When I rebuilt my 37 Special pump in 1988 I was still able to get new gears. I installed those gears, lapped the bottom plate and reinstalled. The engine was started and I had 45-50 psi at idle. Today 31 years later it still has 45 psi at start up and at 50 mph. Hot, we are around 25-30 psi. A stop light idle after a long drive it goes down to 10-15 psi.

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