Gary W

1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

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The original covering on my 1940 56S was a rubber matting, jute backed, with a Fisher logo. It was shot, though, so I ripped it out. My plans are to replace with carpeting.

 

Cheers, Dave

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Gentlemen,

 

Thank you for your tips on my floor mat dilemma.  I will contact Bob"s Memorabilia (I have procured the gearshift boot in brown from him.  The Pontiac gearshift boot is the same as the Buick/Chevy/Olds boot and it was available in brown (along with black).  I will chat with them regarding the floor mat.

 

Again,  did the Buick come with a rubber floor mat in the front? Or was it "upscale" with a carpeted front area?

 

Randy 

 

 

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OOPS,

I just read Dave's reply.  Jute backed rubber front floor mat was standard.  Seems all the 30's cars were with front rubber floor mats.

Randy

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Hi all,

 

How much success do you think I have had trying to secure a rubber mat for my RHD '36??!!!

 

Can anyone help?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

PS: Good to see things are starting to move forward again Gary!  

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1 minute ago, Paul White said:

How much success do you think I have had trying to secure a rubber mat for my RHD '36??!!!

 

Is it a Fisher body?

 

I Imagine if it is, that you could get an unpunched one from Bobs and punch the holes on the correct side. He does list them unpunched in both brown and black. Shipping is likely to be expensive.

 

If the body is Holden, or some other body builder, I have no idea. Bob's pictures are nearly useless, but I believe that is a Fisher logo in the middle of the 1936 mat.

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Yes, it is a RHD Fisher body, didn't know they produced unpunched versions...Thanks for the heads up

 

Shipping is always expensive from the US

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Thanks Guys.   I will contact Bob's to see if they have one that will work.  

 

Randy   

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Friday September 28, 2018:   Confirmation from LeBaron Bonney  AND  UPS!  

 

Finally......  The interior kit is on it's way!!!

 

I received an e-mail from Mr. Scott Holbrook, President of LeBaron Bonney,  at 1:45 this afternoon that my panel set is shipping TODAY!  

 

This was followed by a confirmation e-mail from UPS at 3:52 this afternoon with all the shipping details and a tracking number.

 

UPS also confirmed delivery on Monday, October 1 by the end of the day.

 

So....  after an eight month hiatus, I'll be back in business soon!

 

Have a great weekend everyone!

 

**  I'll be attending the NJ Concours d'Elegance at Bucks Mill Park in Colts Neck tomorrow (Sat, 9/29).  

The Buick was originally invited, but unfortunately because this rather long delay, I had to change my registration.  I'll be bringing my 1914 Model "T".

 

Thanks for hanging in there!  I can't wait to install the interior and go for my maiden voyage.  I hope it all goes well.

 

 

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Good news Gary! I've been checking your thread hoping to see an update...looking forward to completion!

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Now that you've received the last major elements for completion of the interior and, thereby, your restoration, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to mention that now is not the time to rush things in an attempt to just finish the job in a hurried fashion. Your documention of the restoration project shows a careful and deliberative effort in every aspect, big and small. A rushed job now just to get it done may be very tempting, but you've waited patiently this long to surmount the last hurdle, and a continued careful and "attention to detail" method will pay off in a top notch interior job.

 

After all, you've missed the entire summer season of touring and a chance to enjoy the hard won fruits of your labor. Nothing left now except a chance to enjoy driving your beautiful 37 Buick through the exposive fall colors before being put away for next year.

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Saturday September 29,2018:  New Jersey Concours d'Elegance

Bucks Mill Park, Colts Neck

 

I hope you all don't mind if I go "off topic" and share some photos from Saturday's NJ Concours d'Elegance.  The show was very well attended and the grounds were beautiful.  The weather was absolutely perfect and the entire committee, from the Judges right on up to the Grand Marshall could not have been more hospitable.  My Buick was originally registered for the show, but being it was not ready on time, I ended up bringing both my Model "T" and my Model "A" Roadster.  We arrived around 8:00 in the morning.  The drive up Route 34 was just great!  About 60 degrees, little morning moisture in the air and the beautiful sound of that Ford humming right along.  It just doesn't get better!

 

 

 

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My 1914 Ford "T" Touring out on the show field.

(I really apologize for the quality of these photos.  The resize just looks terrible.  Loses all its quality...)

 

 

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I was situated along the back row with other cars in "Class 1":  1900 - 1929

 

 

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The Roadster was in "Class 2": 1930 - 1939

 

 

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The Roadster took 2nd Place in the class!  

 

 

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But the highlight of my day was when the Model "T" took first place in Class 1.  

 

 

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After the winners are notified, there is a Parade of Concours Winners at Victory Lane.

The Grand Marshall talks about each car that comes through

(All I was focused on was my moto-meter red line absolutely pinned at the top, and the steam coming out the overflow pipe under the car!!!)

 

 

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The organizers really went all out to put on a truly beautiful event!

 

 

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There was this 1938 LaSalle, 2-door trunk back sedan.  From the cowl back, the car is identical to my Buick.

It gave me a chance to study the interior, take a bunch of photos and get an overall as to how the car should look when I'm done.

 

 

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Here's the rear arm rest / panel section that I'll be starting on tomorrow night.

 

 

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Here, you can see the headliner welting over the door, and even the door handles are in the same spots.

"Body by Fisher"......  obviously shared the same bodies over a couple of marques.

 

 

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OK....  I had to get a Buick in here!  

 

 

I'll be back in business tomorrow!

 

Have a great Sunday night out there!

Gary

Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
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Congratulations, Gary!  It's great to have you back, and we look forward to seeing the completion of your '37 restoration.  I have to admit I got a kick out of the photos of your prize-winning Model T because of the dude sitting in the chair to the left. Was he taking a nap? ?

 

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Gary,  I also attended the New Jersey Concours on Saturday.  Saw your Model T  and  Model A, they looked great. The weather was perfect and  the cars were outstanding. Kevin did a great job.     Jim

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Incredible amount of work to get this '37 restored, but I bet you put in around the same amount of work taking all the pictures and putting them online. There must be 1000 pictures here, all excellent!

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Gary,

your restoration progress is amazing and well documented. Your restoration of the heater will be a great guide to mine.

 

Can you assist in explaining how the heater is plumbed. I found in the first pages pictures showing the routing of the two heater hoses but could not find any on/off valve or tap. 

 

How  is the heat turned on or off apart from the two flaps on the heater box.

cheers

Rodney ?????

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Rodney:

 My heater is the same as Gary's. There was no shut off. Just the flaps /doors on the front to control the heat and the motor/fan switch. In the summer it will still put out heat. When summer driving I would disconnect the heater hose and install a pipe plug in the fittings. One could also employ a shut off tap on the feed hose.

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My 2 '38's have a water adjustable shutoff valve at the thermostat neck. I always wndered if that is original.

Does anyone know what the installation manual says?

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Wednesday October 3, 2018:  Begin Interior Installation

Part 1:  Passenger's side Rear arm rests, Rear Panel, Door Panel

 

The panel kit finally arrived!  I immediately opened the box and took inventory.  First thing I noticed was that the armrest fabric is different that the original.  The new broadcloth panels look nice and I think they will look just fine in the car.   Let's get started!

 

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Delivered.  Looks like UPS drove over it!  After all this time, I was fearing I would open the box to a bunch of creased panels...

 

 

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Taking inventory.  Everything inside was unharmed.  

 

 

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A new fabric arrived for the rear armrests.  So, first thing I did was to strip the armrests I just finished and re-covered them in this new fabric.

 

 

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Set the ash receiver and punched a nail through to secure it into position.

 

 

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So, here is the "new" armrest, finished and ready to go.

 

 

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The rear panel needed to be trimmed.  It was missing a mounting hole, and the window crank hole was too low.  So, using a sheetrock knife, I made a new hole and made other adjustments.

 

 

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After trying in the panel on its own, then with the armrest, it was time to secure the panel to the armrest before installation.

So, you throw the fabric over the armrest, and with the air stapler, secure the panel all around the armrest flange.

Push and squeeze the two parts nice and tightly then drive the staples.

 

 

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Back into the car.  

***  Note:  I got a call from LeBaron Bonney today that this may not be the correct fabric on the armrest!  So I did not go any further with the rear panel  ***

 

 

 

Door Panel:

 

Being work stopped on the rear panel for now, this morning I decided to tackle the door skin.  There are quite a few steps involved to get it nice:

 

 

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First thing I did was place the old panel on the door to see exactly where the edges meet the door, the overhangs, hole positions.....

 

 

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I started first on the fabric piece that goes over the top of the window.

The car DID NOT  have this fabric piece when I got it, but after seeing a lot of photos on the internet, I figured how it goes in.

Here, I'm marking all the mounting holes with blue tape so I can find them easier when installing the fabric.

 

 

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Once the holes were marked, I used a little double-backed tape to help secure and align the fabric piece.

 

 

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Then, I went around first using tacks to hold it and create a "pilot hole" for the screws to come next.

This gives you a chance to see if you have any puckering between screw holes.

 

 

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One by one, I pulled the tacks and replaced them with brass screws.

 

 

 

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Having the upper fabric in, I started aligning the door panel.  There is an internal hook built into the door which holds the panel.  Huge help.

 

 

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Once satisfied the position is good, I used the knife to open the fabric to allow the window and door lock studs to come through.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wednesday October 3, 2018:  Interior Panels

Part 2:  Finishing the door skin

 

 

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I'm setting all those wire clips under the door skin and snapping the panel over the door.  This was a pain!  The panel has about 16 holes drilled in it under the fabric.

NOT ONE of those holes lined up with the holes in the door!  Not one.  So, hours of carefully elongating some panel holes, and straight up drilling a few new holes in the door,

I was able to get the panel set nice and flush and sitting tight to the door metal.  You see I have the arm rest holes marked for future install.

 

 

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Back into my box of parts to dig out the vent window crank and the window crank and door opening handle.

I used a little silicone on the stud and inside the handle, and slowly in the vise I steadily drove it home.

 

 

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I was careful to go little by little and protect the chrome and the plastic from getting marred.

 

 

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It takes a little effort, but it went down nice and spins smoothly.

 

 

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Then the door bling.  So nice seeing all these parts again!  I just used a little hand pressure to seat the plastic into the chrome escutcheon.

 

 

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I slipped the clip down into the slot.  I made sure I could see a small tang on each side inside the window riser.

 

 

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Then, some pressure and the handle slides over the stud and that clip grabs the groove in there.

 

 

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So the handles are back on.  I put them on the way they were in the car when I got it.  Is that door handle supposed to be horizontal?

 

 

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Passengers side tonight.  Notice:  Window garnish and arm rest not yet installed.

Armrest:  LeBaron didn't ship it in this shipment.   They are re-covering it in this fabric.

 

 

 

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Garnish molding:  It gets a nice welting around the front, top and rear surfaces. 

 

 

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LeBaron sent two weltings, one for each garnish molding.  I started making a nice fold and make my preliminary measurements.

 

 

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And quickly realized the welt is about 6" too short.  Both are measured the same length so they are sending new ones soon so I can button up the door skins.

 

 

 

Moving right along!

 

Have a great night

Gary

 

 

 

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I will defer to Brian's 1938 photos. I suspect that they were the same in 1937. All that I have ever seen have been somewhere between that angle and totally horizontal. I have never seen any that were vertical. 

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If the handle position is adjustable, I like to think some discretion can be applied to position based on the factory photos, other restorations, and your preference and comfort. 

 

In my 27 Buick and 62 VW, I sat in the cars with the door closed, windows up, then down, then where I might commonly "Crack" the window open for a little air, and noted my knee and arm and elbow position against the door, and factored that in to the choice of final handle positioning. 

 

There's nothing like traveling with a handle digging into your knee or leg, especially when you realize you could have easily avoided it by rotating a handle by 2 or 3 notches. 

 

It might be similar to saying an adjustable seat is shown all the way back in a factory photo, but not adjusting it forward for your own comfort when driving. 

Edited by 27donb (see edit history)
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