Gary W

1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

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You're right Gary, that paint really pops in the sun! 

 

My cars leak and drip too much for carpet on the floor, but I feel your pain (or, joy!) about more cars than garage spaces. 

 

I fit 4 in an oversized 2, luckily the older cars are narrow. 

 

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58 minutes ago, ILIKECARS53 said:

I know this the Buick Pre-War forum, but I am sure all would like to see some pics of your Fords.

 

 

My Fords:

 

 

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The one that started it all. 

1930 Model "A" Deluxe Coupe.

Purchased October, 1993

 

 

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1930 Model "A" Roadster.  Purchased in 2003.  So much fun.

It was basically set up to show.  The previous owner got a Senior, then sold it.

John and I had to do a lot to get it running correctly, but no body or interior work.

 

 

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I drive and show the roadster whenever practical now that it's running well.

This is at the Monmouth County Concours d'Elegance in the Fall of 2015.  I actually drive it up Rt. 34 to the show.

 

 

 

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1914 Model "T" Touring.

Purchased September 2013.  (Every 10 years I get the itch!!)

My son and I took this right down to the frame and restored her like the Buick, every nut, bolt, cotter pin.....

 

 

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The "T" was a 14-month restoration, but this is where I gained the confidence to take on the Buick.

She's got her original motor, radiator....

 

 

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Before the Buick had to get squeezed in there, they all had a bit more room!

 

Thanks for asking to see them!  

Gary
 

 

 

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Beautiful collection! 

 

By your calculations... within 10 years or so, you'll have to either expand your garage, or sell something! 

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Gary,

It looks like both of those are replacement pieces due to their date codes but the LOF piece looks like a 1941 replacement that was probably sourced from the Buick dealer. There are companies who reproduce glass with the correct date codes but I have not researched it to know who to recommend. Here is what original glass markings from May of 1937 would look like. 

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Gary,

 

I ordered replacement glass for my 36 Pontiac from a glass shop on the east coast.  I took pictures of the etched logo on the glass and the glass shop replicated that logo on to the new glass that he made for me.  On your replacement glass, did they etch the logo into the glass for you?  If I recall, GM had two or three different suppliers for their glass needs.  If you needed glass (after 1937) you could have a different purveyor supplying you with the glass.  Some of the parts specialists can let you know how many different glass suppliers worked with GM back in the day.

 

Randy

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Gary,

 

Bitchin Buncha Fords.  I especially like the Roadster.  Beautiful.   

 

So..............the previous owner(s)  replaced the glass in the Buick from a local glass shop.  Since the glass is all flat, any glass shop can cut and polish the edges to match existing panels.  I have a glass shop across the street from me and she can replicate the glass in my 36 cars, but she doesn't do the etching.  And that is the only difference in the glass. 

 

I looked for the name of the company that replicated my glass for my 36 Pontiac and I seem to have lost it.  I will research it and get back to you.  They are in your neck of the woods and can etch the proper logo/date on your glass.  One LARGE  problem.  You have to remove the glass to have them do it.  :-(   Probably won't happen unless you are shooting for the 100 point car.   However, 99 out of a 100 isn't too shabby.  I can't believe that none of your mentors didn't counsel  you on that item.

 

Randy  

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Those cars run as nice as they look and stop just as well.  Mechanical brakes, when set up properly, are more than adequate for the task they perform. 

Remember, a Model "A" weighs only about  2100 - 2200 lbs and they actually start slowing down as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator. 

In 25 years of tooling around in my "A"'s,  I've never felt unsafe or worried at an intersection, red light or in traffic.  

Of course, I respectfully drive them the way an 88 year-old car should be driven.  Easy up, easy down.

 

Thanks for asking!

Gary

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One very important thing - do not use modern brake linings with the mechanical brakes. They are too hard.

The best thing is NOS or some sort of a soft woven type lining.

When I restored my '31  Buick, I lived in San Francisco. I had the brakes relined by a regular  brake shop. Driving on the hills was a horror. Trying to stop was scary.

Then I met an old brake guy. he advised me about the woven linings and the problem with modern linings. He relined the '31's brakes with the older material. The difference was spectacular. The car would stop.

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On 3/14/2018 at 2:29 PM, Randiego said:

They are in your neck of the woods and can etch the proper logo/date on your glass.  One LARGE  problem.  You have to remove the glass to have them do it.  :-(   Probably won't happen unless you are shooting for the 100 point car.   However, 99 out of a 100 isn't too shabby. 

glass bead eaching will look the same with clear over it to make it smooth after the light far off glass beading is done I have done this not for cars though but done it a lot --kyle 

 I like your garage deco.

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Sunday March 18, 2018:  Rear Armrests

 

I'm learning this upholstery thing as I go along.......

 

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Here's the rear panel / armrest  kit from LeBaron.  This is the first kit sent to me. You can see the panels where the brown turned green.  

I can't use the panels, but the armrests are a different fabric, and are fine, so while I wait for the replacement upholstery kit to arrive, I decided I can at least cover the arm rests today.

 

 

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I placed the old armrest and rear panel in the car to get a sense of how they assembled everything.   I made notes directly on the fabric to guide me.

 

 

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Inside and ready to start removing the fabric from the arm rest support.

 

 

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Here are my "steps" to install.  So I started here with the passenger side.

 

 

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The underside looks pretty terrible.

 

 

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I started peeling off the fabric...

 

 

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and chunks of the armrest support started coming off with it!

 

 

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There was dirt, dust, broken stuff, and these petrified armrest cushions!

 

 

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I just kept peeling everything off, and scraping all that horse hair or whatever that stuff is.  Then stripped the drivers side.

 

 

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Good thing the wife wasn't home to see this one.

 

 

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After cleaning up and sorting the parts, this is what I have left to work with.

 

 

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And the part numbers were clearly visible.

 

 

 

 

 

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So, I clamped the broken stuff together and ran a bead of first wood glue (didn't work) and then went to Loctite epoxy.  That stuff works like a charm!

It all held together and allowed me to scrub everything and give it a coat of trim black.

 

 

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Then for good measure, I ran a line of duct tape over the crack on the underside, flipped it over...

 

 

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and laid in another bead of epoxy just to tighten things up.  The duct tape acted as a seal so nothing went through and it dried nice and strong!

 

 

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And here we are repaired and ready for new covers.

 

 

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A trip to JoAnn's craft / fabric shop.  I bought 1/2" foam for the armrests, and a 1/8" foam to cover the arm rest to give the material some body.

(Looks like bacon)

 

 

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I traced the original arm rest foam onto the 1/2" foam.

 

 

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I cut it bigger just in case I needed to roll it or trim it to fit.

 

 

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So here is where the foam pad will start, just behind the ash tray hole.

 

 

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I stood it straight up in front, and using my air stapler, I shot three staples to secure it.

 

 

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Then, using headliner adhesive, I sat the rest of it down into position.

 

 

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Next, I covered the arm rest with this 1/8" foam.  It seems to give it a nice feel under the fabric.  Again, headliner adhesive to make it stick.

 

 

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Making strategic cuts, and pulling the felt around, again the headliner adhesive used to wrap the felt and stick it to the back.  I taped it while the adhesive did its thing.

 

 

 

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Now wrapped in foam, it's ready for the brown fabric covering.

 

 

 

 

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I made sure the arm rest had a nice curve at the front end.

 

 

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Being there are no instructions, I figured the seam must somehow line up with the ash tray, so that's where I started laying things out.

 

 

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I started wrapping the fabric and tried to follow the stitching.

 

 

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Pulling it taught over and around the bottom, I shot a couple staples to secure the fabric.

 

 

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Then it was time to seat the ash trays.  These are the plastic buttons I made in the summer.

 

 

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Careful cuts and the trim pushed into position.

 

 

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Then drop in the ash receiver.  Does that knob go to the front or back?

 

 

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The finished armrest.

 

 

I know I've been quiet lately but I need my interior kit to finish the restoration.  

I believe there were quite a few customers that got the bad dye lot, so I'm stuck  just waiting for the panels and seat covers to arrive.

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

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Gary, just wondering how long it took to get your order from LBBonny, from the day you placed your order?  4-6-8weeks or longer?  Tom

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While it could have been removed and replaced incorrectly at some time in the past 80 or so years, the one car that I have that has the armrest ashtrays has the knobs towards the front. 

 

I would assume that those would have been in all two door sedans, but only one of my 3 four door sedans has the armrest ashtrays. The other two just have a large ashtray in the back of the center of the front seat back. 

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Gary,

 

Very nice job.  And for not being an upholsterer, those look very professionally done.  Can't wait to see the progress with the seats when the fabric comes in.  For some reason, after witnessing you installing the head liner (NO EASY FEAT) I can imagine that the seats will look the same in workmanship............professional.

 

Hope that Le Baron Bonney gets you the kit soon.  

 

Anyone wanting to restore an old Buick  or for that matter, any 30's car, can refer to this site on how to do it..................properly.

 

We will await your next post.

 

 

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Is that "foam rubber" you are using? I am not sure. "Foam rubber" disintegrates after a few years and turns to dust and chips. I was thinking of using closed cell foam for arm rests. Several grades are available.

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Hi Guys;

 

Tom:  I originally ordered February 13, 2017, and the kit arrived in early May so about 8 weeks.  I was glad to have it early, and I was ready to install the rear stuff in October.  But when I opened the boxes, the panels that were covered in their "N9?" brown fabric were turning green.  It really stinks that the entire build comes to a screeching halt because a bad dye lot!  Bummer for sure.

 

Spinneyhill:  My first choice of armrest foam would be the Dynamat Dynaliner, 1/2" thick self adhesive.  It's got that perfect consistency and it's easy to work with.  I didn't have enough left over or I would have simply used that.  I did tell the workers at JoAnns fabrics what I'm using it for, expecting heat, cold...  and they said this will hold up just fine, so I'm trusting their advice here.  But I agree with you that a closed cell material probably will give better service in the long run.

 

Thanks for following along!  Have a great week out there!!

 

Gary

 

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Gary, I placed and paid my order in December, 3mo ago today, and nothing yet..  Hope you don`t have to wait too long on your re-do..  Tom

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Gary,

 

Before you get too far along, I would check with a carpet store. They probably have some carpet padding scraps that would work better than the foam from a fabric store. It might even be free since the size you need would be of no use to them. The higher end carpet padding is also a wool product that should vastly outlast any foam product. 

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19 hours ago, Gary W said:

Good thing the wife wasn't home to see this one.

 

:D You really made me laugh out loud with that comment since that is EXACTLY what I was thinking when I saw the photo -- "Oh Boy, Gary's in trouble now!"  Heck, we've never seen a mess like that in your workshop, let alone on the dining room table!

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