Jump to content

1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)


Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Buick 59 said:

did you ever tell us whether you resolved the issue with the drivers side door handle hitting the fabric

 

 

I didn't get that fixed yet.  I've been pushing the fabric in while opening the door for now so it doesn't rub. 

But I guess that will be a winter project removing the door skin and hopefully figuring out why it rubs like that.  

I may start by simply switching the handles from the drivers door to the passengers door and see if that does anything.

 

Thanks so much for following along!!  Appreciate the support!

Gary

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

It is hard to feature that the handle rubs the fabric on one side.  There is a Gnome hiding in your door waiting for you to let him out.    This next year, will be you taking the family out in your spectacular Buick for a weekend drive.  Such a beautiful car only to be hung up with these last little issues.  But we all know that you will prevail.  Now if LB would just deliver the items for you to finish the interior.   

 

 Anyway,  have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

 

Randy

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Sunday December 30, 2018:  Final visit to Bob's paint shop for the hand compound and final polishing

 

I have 190 miles on her now, and Bob had a few days open in his shop schedule to get the Buick in for the last steps to finish the paint.  

There were a few touch-ups to make around the hood and a boo-boo I made in the trunk.

The most pressing issue for me was the hood alignment at the front.

So over the last few days, Bob fixed all that stuff and I got her back this afternoon.

 

(Disclaimer:  I had a REAL TOUGH time trying to resize photos tonight!  I took hours trying to get these on the site)

 

DSC_4233.thumb.jpeg.f2f3dd7831754e2435c90c0334c9c2ae.jpeg

Back in Bob's shop for the final paint work.

 

 

DSC_4244.thumb.jpeg.cc35b3948b57ad8aca3f771f706d031c.jpeg

Here's the front end and the hood (mis)alignment.  I just couldn't stand the way it all lined up.

 

 

DSC_4256.thumb.jpg.654564c9bcee08da4659e586120dede7.jpg

And touch-up work needed on the forward edges of the hood where it meets the front clip.

 

 

DSC_4262.thumb.jpg.5f633aeffcb96dd1b2f8e4cb51ec655c.jpg

As always, Bob takes his time and evaluates every inch of the car.  

 

 

DSC_4293.thumb.jpeg.5b6780f2c0e4cbd0a6e212979918706b.jpeg

I caught him doing a little fine touch-up on the inner surface of the trunk lid.  I like watching the technique.

 

 

DSC_4286.thumb.jpeg.862712c283f1e06af481b8f3ab0c141e.jpeg

After the front edges were all touched up.  Now she's ready for the hand compounding.

 

 

DSC_4288.thumb.jpg.b56ffb4d6c5187e92d80862711cd2791.jpg

Using this 3M product, Bob hand-rubbed the entire car, starting with the roof.

After all that labor, the car then got a finish coat of wax.

All the labor done by hand, no machine for this final stage.

 

 

DSC_4281.thumb.jpeg.e077678dea9cb60626fcf1f23956b6ae.jpeg

She looked just beautiful inside the shop under the lamps.....

 

 

DSC_4321.thumb.jpeg.06ce7670c9b6eff2e8446c03f7121f19.jpeg

..... and looked even better outside!

 

 

DSC_4322.thumb.jpeg.a5c79df2632d60c189526777c2590837.jpeg

The front hood / grille area lines up so much better now!  The gaps look great on both sides.

(I'm really sorry for the poor quality of these photos....  some are dropped down to 218KB.... )

 

 

 

DSC_4352.thumb.jpg.e19e4c9320483a304d89b89c4ee91630.jpg

I took my nephew out for a 20-mile run!  So much fun.

 

 

IMG_8167.thumb.jpeg.aa6f25dbc70af92a816c16864d3ec055.jpeg

2-years ago he was two.

 

 

DSC_4359.thumb.jpeg.97450b1e996b0a644a10491061b0798f.jpeg

Now he's four and loves the cars.

 

 

DSC_4328.thumb.jpeg.94a303acd08733d7296996e37534be70.jpeg

Have a great night out there!

 

 

 

I wish you all a very Happy and Healthy New Year!!

 

 

Gary

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary, like many others on this site I have been silently watching this thread and have been throughly impressed by the dedication to having this restoration done in such short order and so well documented.  Well done.  Would love to see it in person.  Leon

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Congratulations, Gary.  Whenever I make a repair I ask myself how would Gary do it and refer to your thread.  Please everyone post here occasionally to keep it current and available as a valuable resource.

 

Thanks again, Gary V 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now it truly is a HAPPY NEW YEAR ! ! !   What a saga that we all have been watching.  Professional shops could not have done a better job.  Your attention to the most minute details really inspire me to do a better job. 

 

I learned from you one major lesson.  Plan, plan, plan.  Some times, I just take the item apart only to be stymied by some glitch like misplacing a small component and wondering where the H--- I placed it.  From now on, my workshop will be like a Swiss watch factory.................CLEAN and organized.  You inspired and impressed us all with your cleanliness and meticulous attention to the details.  A lesson for us all.

 

Having a three car garage that you worked in and not a "shop" really awed us.  To have done this remarkable job in your garage boggles the mind. 

And the results are stunning.   

 

I watch Antiques Roadshow on PBS on occasion.  In the beginning of the show, they have in their intro  scenes of St. Louis and on the curb is none other than your car.......................a 1937 Buick.  Black two door to boot.  SO..... you are in possession of a "star" ! !  

 

 

Mrs. W and the family must be very proud of your work too.  Now for warm weather to take this gracious beauty out for a ride in the surrounding countryside.  

 

Thank you for sharing this great story and I too have learned from you and your methods.  A big shout out to the Buick Owners of America.  Seems like a great group of people who were there to assist in your work.  

 

Have a Happy, Healthy,  Prosperous  New Year, Gary.

 

P.S.  We cannot wait to see your next "rescue".  As young as you are, you have a lot of years (and cars)  to restore.  What will be your next one?   

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the nice compliments.

 I'm so happy that you guys find value in my work.

 

The next car I would love to own would be 

a convertible model Buick of the same vintage.

1937 or 1938 Buick Model 66-C.    Keep that between us for now!

Of course, I need garage space so that will most likely be the first step.

Thanks for all your help throughout this journey!

I've made some really great friends here, and appreciate the camaraderie.

 

Respectfully,

Gary

 

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/1/2019 at 11:11 AM, Gary W said:

Thanks for all the nice compliments.

 I'm so happy that you guys find value in my work.

 

The next car I would love to own would be 

a convertible model Buick of the same vintage.

1937 or 1938 Buick Model 66-C.    Keep that between us for now!

Of course, I need garage space so that will most likely be the first step.

 

Thanks for all your help throughout this journey!

I've made some really great friends here, and appreciate the camaraderie.

 

Respectfully,

Gary

 

What a great journey you’ve taken us on Gary-  down the throwback memory lanes of travel years gone by, in real time. 

Thanks for the incredible ride brother! 

What an amazing transformation!

Drive her well and driver her often...

 

“Get’cher motor runnin’,

head out on the highway...”

KRW

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/15/2017 at 6:37 PM, Gary W said:

Spent the day wire-wheeling a bucket of nuts, bolts, lock washers, and... the drag link, master cylinder, the brake and clutch pedal, stabilizer connections.....  

Then cleaned them with acetone and sprayed them gloss black.  Have to spray them in small batches, too cold outside so quick spray and immediately back into the garage.

 

AMAZING how nice the parts look just using the wire wheel!  

 

 

DSC_0717.jpg

DSC_0722.jpg

Your attention to detail is 2nd to none!

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Sunday January 20, 2019:  Hand Throttle  (Part One)
 

 

Today I spent a couple of hours in the garage hooking up the hand throttle pull so it operates as designed.  

Being mine was rusted and broken and could not be re-used, I had to be a little creative to get everything working.

In the end, it all works as it should.

 

 

DSC_0239.thumb.jpg.1b94d009aee6ce39bc32b23591b7d287.jpg

Two years ago, removing the unit from the back of the dash panel.  Everything was hopelessly rusted solid.

 

 

DSC_4483.thumb.jpg.fb366ff08d1edbb93dfa86f28012c1b3.jpg

I bought this generic choke cable at NAPA auto parts.

Turns out, all I actually used was a 36" section of the casing and the wire that runs inside it.

 

 

DSC_4490.thumb.jpg.f058c6ad03fe30843fab6c3e4a6bb334.jpg

Remove the pull knob.  Mine was not attached to anything so it slid right out.  Then remove the nut and washer from inside the dash and slide out the face and the tube.

 

 

DSC_4491.thumb.jpg.165cd5a60c895c1d5911c1830ffe387c.jpg

Here's the guts on the bench.    Couple of issues here:

1.  The "tube" that holds the outer casing firm was split down the side.

2. The pull knob unit is broken at the end where the inner wire attaches.

 

DSC_4545.thumb.jpg.1c79e59b804235b62325b19c5a501eab.jpg

Using wire, I made some preliminary measurements from the inside of the dash to the throttle linkage.

Pull the wire out from the casing.

 

 

DSC_4540.thumb.jpg.cb5cdb18c1ac7d53747704b35cc27a81.jpg

Lock the outer casing in the vise and cut to the required length.  I cut it to 36", disregarding all the rest of the stuff attached to it.

 

 

DSC_4541.thumb.jpg.506e73b6604acfa29c1244edf4ce2ddb.jpg

Dress it smooth with the file as the hacksaw makes it pretty messy.

 

 

DSC_4507.thumb.jpg.61305621e25a31fa4d756604f3bae553.jpg

To help attach the outer casing to the dash "tube", I used this JB Weld epoxy.

 

 

DSC_4504.thumb.jpg.2ff4c303d8eda43d3b661fbed8832192.jpg

You can see the split, so I inserted the knob just so I knew how far the casing can go in.

Then, I used the epoxy around the casing and basically "screwed" it down into position.

Once coated and seated, I pressed the split tight in the vise to aid in retention.

Set this aside now that the 36" casing is attached to the dash tube.

 

Part 2: the dash knob and final installation.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


Sunday January 20, 2019:  Hand Throttle  (Part Two)

 

 

With the dash attachment done, I started on the pull knob.

The wire that runs inside the outer casing is firmly attached to this pull knob.

 

 

DSC_4516.thumb.jpg.a411cdd8ee7df84578926682f0f63898.jpg

Here's the problem.  The end that the wire attaches to is broken.

So what I did here is

 

 

DSC_4521.thumb.jpg.d4241017ab53ff7cb6cf05ae4f91848b.jpg

Drilled a 1/16" hole through the remaining metal at the end of the part.

 

 

DSC_4522.thumb.jpg.a89fe3ebac7e87557b6a5a0794258f70.jpg

I bent the wire 90 degrees.

 

 

DSC_4524.thumb.jpg.e8846316c57a60cc4d31f660ef902ad2.jpg

This way, there was a mechanical "Lock" to attach the two.  Next, I cut the protruding end down so it stood just a bit proud when the wire was moved.

I was going to solder it together, but I realized that once its in the tube, there is no room for it to move and it should stay secure.

The tube keeps the wire centered in position.

Now, simply slide this wire through the outer casing...

 

 

DSC_4528.thumb.jpg.b2b7c192848a6c8e119087c94fc0bfe2.jpg

Back to the car, begin sliding the finished casing through the dash panel.

 

 

DSC_4535.thumb.jpg.4afbf57de1162d6e440910dc1b742e26.jpg

Slip on your mounting hardware before running it through the firewall.

Tighten it up behind the dash, then run the casing through the firewall pad and into the engine bay.

 

 

DSC_4546.thumb.jpg.3a3275fd850dcb80300501ef63adf72f.jpg

The casing came through the firewall above the voltage regulator (I don't know if that is correct, but there were holes already punched, so I used them).

Then the casing routes down the firewall and clips just before it attaches to the throttle linkage.

With the dash knob pushed in fully, pull up the little lever arm and attach the inner wire.

 

I didn't start it today because it's pouring out, but I did roll the window down and watch the action as I pulled it out and it moves the throttle plate on the carburetor so I think it'll work just fine.

 

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great job. On my 37 L-37 Olds the throttle cable is broke off at the dash like yours was and the rest of it that  is behind the dash and out to the carb is missing. When the time comes I will try and do what you did to fix yours. Great pictures.  I hope I understand how you attached the wire to what is left of throttle knob.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

 

Great Job.  Just when we think that that is the last story on the 37, you surprise us with a new tidbit.  I just wish that it is not over yet.  Not till the door panel issue is sorted out and that you have a chance (in clear, dry weather) to take it out and video the drive.  That would be great to see and hear it running and cruising down the road.  Do you have a Go Pro or your Nikon that can film the event? If so, we would love to watch it. 

 

I was fortunate on my 36 Plymouth P 2 that the dash throttle cable works and I use it to warm up the car before I take it out for a cruise.  

 

One product that I found that is fantastic.  From Jay Leno's Garage, I saw him interview the guy that has the "Little Egypt Garage".  He has a great turn signal system that is battery operated and wireless remote.  I installed the system on my car in less than an hour. Very easy.  The sequential signal lights mounted on my trunk (They are L E D) and operate from the control unit mounted on the steering column.  You simply turn it on at the tail light housing and when you are driving down the road, you press either right turn or left turn.  It also has a brake light button which operates all the lights for a stop light.  SInce I have factory brake lights on the P2, I do not use that feature but no more rolling down the window to use my arm to indicate a left or right.  Besides, this younger generation have no idea what you are doing.  They think that you are ready to flip them off or such rot.  Great  product. They work and look great, not messing with the harmony of the wiring of the car.  It is comforting to know that people can see your intent to turn or change lanes.   

 

Randy

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Saturday February 2, 2019:  Carburetor Question

 

Tonight I went out to the garage to measure the distance from the end of the master cylinder to the clevis for another forum member who was setting up his brakes.

When I opened the hood, there was a distinct odor of gasoline.  Now, I realize this is the carburetor side of the engine, but it was "noticeable".

The car has been sitting for a week.

 

When I looked closer, the gasket stack is quite damp all around the base of the carburetor.  If you "blot" it with a paper towel, there is moisture there.  Not soaking, but "moist".

The gas is not pooling out around the base of the carburetor, but it seems like it's doing the same thing the old Marvel was doing.

 

So...  do I have a problem here or is this OK?  

Is this something "they all do" or is this an issue to be resolved.

I just want to catch it before I end up diluting my engine oil again.

 

 

DSC_3174.thumb.jpg.55de9b4c6a7c0caa3437225deda21e84.jpg.d58c1fb49d2c6c90ef0d0ff0933af02a.jpg

The original Marvel was swapped out for this Carter  608S.

 It is an NOS carburetor so I just bolted it on and made the necessary parts complete the conversion.

Aside from setting the idle screw, I didn't touch anything.  Carburetors just are not my thing.  


Better left alone if you don't know what you are doing.

 

 

DSC_4643.thumb.jpeg.37a3285c786ca5da9566ea13eded2ebd.jpeg

When I looked at the base, it is definitely "moist" with gasoline.  Not "pooling" around the intake where it bolts down, but "moist" all around.

 

 

DSC_4653.thumb.jpeg.692a2578890c5433f69602a99035f6fb.jpeg

Different angle.  But you can see the base gasket stack is moist even at the forward side.

There is also a leak up top where the pin exits from that box on top.

 

 

DSC_4650.thumb.jpeg.8030831011bacb661fbef4c64f85f8b2.jpeg

That leak from up there is pooling a little.  Actually, all the gaskets look kinda "damp" everywhere!

 

 

So the question is:

Is this just normal break-in, seating, first few hundred miles stuff or should I get this looked at?

Is there an adjustment on this carburetor that will stop the gasket from getting wet like that?

 

If I just need to go around it and tighten up all the screws, I'll be happy with that.

 

If someone can chime in either way, I'd appreciate it!

 

Happy Groundhogs Day!

(early spring)

 

Gary

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary, dosen`t sound right to me, float level too high or trash in the needle and seat not shutting off the flow.  Fuel should not be as high as those top gaskets and should not be wet. Remove the screw on the left side of the carb., fuel level should be right at the bottom of the hole, if fuel comes out when you remove the screw, fuel level is too high. Even with the engine running you should be able to remove the screw and fuel not run out the hole. The leak up top by shaft and clip looks like it could be oil/lube from that shaft, if you`ll look at the little cap cover it states to remove the screws and put a couple drops of oil in the screw holes to lube the shaft, not sure how often to oil..  And I hope "PP the groundhog" is right.. I think his record of being right over the years, is only 17%, but that`s probably better than the weather-peoples predictions..

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

While I am not a carburetor expert, I would lean towards you need to have a carburetor shop rebuild the NOS carburetor. I am guessing you probably are not able to run ethanol free fuel exclusively in the car. The components in the NOS carburetor are not going to last with any ethanol containing fuel being used. Sitting for all those years is not good for a carburetor and the internal gaskets were not designed for ethanol in fuel. In spite of this, you may want to double check the carburetor mounting hardware. I would assume the mounting hardware is nice and snug, but you may want to recheck them. If the nuts holding the carburetor down are not snug, that could be contributing to the fuel pooling in that area. Perhaps over the time since you initially installed it, the gaskets have compressed a bit.  

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't there a cap you can just take off to see if the gas is all the way up at that pin? It shouldn't be up there. It shouldn't be anywhere near that high.

 

Carburetors that are running with the float stuck, sunk, or just way too high usually have gas running out of the main discharge tubes down inside the booster venturis. If the car is not prone to backfiring (so you can look safely), look down the throat with the engine running on full-warm slow idle. There should be no fuel coming out of the discharge tubes, or anything else you can see. At a hot idle, all the fuel should be coming from the idle jets just BELOW the throttle where you can't see it. If you see fuel running out of something in there, the float is misadjusted, stuck, or sunk.

 

I have read that sometimes float levels need to be lowered when using ethanol blends. I'm skeptical. I wonder what Carbking thinks about that.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

Sorry to hear of your carb issue. Amazing to find an NOS carburetor. I would agree with Matthew. Too long for a carb to site unused. I have sent a number of carburetors (Chevrolet, Ford and Buick) out for rebuilt to a business in Florida. They come back just super. You may have heard of them. Daytona Auto Parts. I would highly recommend them if you need a rebuild. Good turnaround time as well. https://daytonaparts.com/

Best,

Dave

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

 

You rebuilt the whole darned car! Working on the simple carb isnt brain surgery.

As suggested above, even though the carb is NOS, the key letter is "O".

For one, it probably needs new fresh gaskets. Check the float level and needle and seat.

Since the car runs OK, there is a good chance no adjustments are needed other than perhaps float level.

Everything is well covered in the manual.

 

Go for it.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Not normal. Didn't come from the factory that way. My concern would be a fire starting and ruining all your hard work and less about oil dilution, although, make no mistake, that is also important.

 

I'm with Mr. MCHinson on this because my first thought was the old & original gaskets that are not compatible with modern gas containing ethyl alcohol. I thought you said you had this carb checked out by Mr. CarbKing who installed modern gaskets in it for you? Float level may also need attention, as others have stated.

 

Please take care of this gremlin before driving any further - for your own safety if nothing else.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, 1967 - 1997 Riviera said:

You said you had this carb checked out by Mr. CarbKing who installed modern gaskets in it for you?

 

Yes.. Jon did put all new gaskets in the NOS Carter  (WCD 2 bbl 608S)  before he shipped it to me.  He also spent a ton of time with me on the phone and via e-mail educating me and explaining why I should swap out the old Marvel.  His knowledge of these carburetors is unmatched and I am so grateful he took the time with me and got me all hooked up with this Carter.   The car starts so much easier, idles super smooth and has plenty of power and pickup.  There is a noticeable difference between the original Marvel and this later-model Carter.  (I think this Carter 608S was factory equipment for Buick Series 40 - 50 in 1941, 1942 and 1946. Please correct me if I have this detail wrong)

 

That is precisely why I didn't hit the panic button here, I just wanted to know if this is something that happens with these Buicks.

 

Today I received a private message and I was introduced to the term  "Hot Soak".    It was explained to me like this:

 

" It is  unlikely that rebuilding the carburetor will cure any wetness at the carburetor mounting gaskets.  This is something that occurs after engine shut-off, when the engine temperature rises for the first few minutes and can cause the gasoline in the bowl to percolate and dump down onto the closed throttle plates, soaking the base stack with raw gas.  This can be exacerbated by excess fuel pump pressure or by using "high octane" modern gas, as premium blends boil at lower temperatures than 87 octane.  The "Hot Soak" is not a carburetor problem."  

 

All I ever put in the Buick's tank is 94 octane Sunoco Ultra.  I think I'll try the 87 octane next, and continually monitor the carburetor.  Like I said, it is not dripping or pooling around the base, just the gasket stack is "moist", and I wasn't sure if this was a common occurrence with the Buick.  I did take Matt's advice and checked my mounting nuts.  All three loosened up since being installed and the gasket crushed down a bit.  So I tightened up the base nice and snug again.  I'm going to check the float level next and adjust accordingly.  Hopefully the combination will help alleviate the wet gasket in the future.

 

As always, thanks for the advice and all the suggestions.  I'll let you know how I make out once I burn this tank of 94 and fill up with 87 at the next fill up.

 

Enjoy the game!

 

Gary

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same "loose nut" issue with my Special after it had been on the road a while. Tightening them solved the problem. That hot soak explanation makes perfect sense

I missed the fact that the carb had been re-gasketed.

WOW! 94 octne in a 6.1 CR engine? You probably are confusing the heck out of it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

All:

This explains the issues I had with my 37 on the return trip from Wisconsin in 2017. Throughout the trip I had tried to get as much non ethanol as possible. (very difficult going through corn states) Many of the locations listed on the "Pure gas" site only would stock 91octane or better in non ethanol fuel. One place near me has ALL grades of non ethanol. Even our current 87 octane would have been considered racing fuel in the late 1930s. ("or by using "high octane" modern gas, as premium blends boil at lower temperatures than 87 octane." ). When using ethanol blends I would usually do the recommended amount of STARTRON and several oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil on a fill up. My one friend says he throws in a pint of Diesel to the same effect on fill up of his 1927 Master 6. 

 On our trip out through the mountains of central PA in 90+ degree day= bad vapor lock. I had filled with a 91 octane non ethanol. 

Through the flat lands of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin no problems. Of course now we had only ethanol fuel with my usual cocktail of additives. On our return trip I was able to fill up just before leaving Wisconsin with a 93 octane. No problem through the remaining flat states. Some where in Ohio I filled up at a Speedway with 87 ethanol. Immediately afterward the engine lost power and seemed as if there was a miss. (Problem described on a post at that time.) Later I found out that a 3/8" long section of the top of the piston came off and hammered the spark plug electrode closed. I limped along until our overnight stay at Akron O.I changed points and such and things seemed to run better. But for the last 150 miles there was that miss. I did not discover the mashed plug until we stayed at my daughters outside of Indiana PA.

DSCF6208.thumb.JPG.65398863ed9ba278c8ac3a4b631bb569.JPG

I changed out the bad plug and changed the oil because of over 200 miles of dilution. Before leaving Indiana PA. I filled up at their only non ethanol station with 93 octane. 2 1/2 hours later as we started up the last 3 mountains on route 30 (90" degrees) there was the vapor lock again. At the top of Sideling Hill I had to let things rest and cool off. Also it was hard to get started. Prior to that the engine idled a bit rough but the miss was gone. Well, we made it home but the exhaust manifold gasket blew pulling the hills on the Lincoln Highway to Chambersburg.

DSCF6211.thumb.JPG.df56f4947d6d3e9dac7c1930965c3ff7.JPG

DSCF6212.thumb.JPG.17edd1cdbe9a162fae754f8ac7f1aaee.JPG

 

Edited by dibarlaw
Added content (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary - is the puddling actually fuel, or is it grease?

 

That carburetor has a spot of lubrication on the counter-shaft, and I did not replace the original grease. It may have melted with heat, and a bit leaked out. I think the carb top may have a caption stating "oil under screw". This lubricates the countershaft, to prevent wear.

 

Gasoline should not be present at this location during running (or it wouldn't run ;) ). Gas may be present for a short time at this location when the engine has been shut off when hot, because of the nature of today's fuel. As far as carb gaskets being damp, again a function of modern fuel.

 

I am happy to read of the improvement in running over the Marvel. I would have been very disappointed if there was no improvement (as you would have been).

 

And to those amazed at finding an NOS carb, don't be; but as mentioned by others in this thread, new gaskets as well as compressed air through the passages (spiders) should be done before use. The important issues of NOS are: (1) no wear, and (2) no cobbling by "Dr. Goodpliers" (the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench).

 

And should you have additional carb issues, don't hesitate to call: (573) 392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time).

 

And as others have mentioned, stop spending money on 94 octane. The lowest octane from a "name brand" station, hopefully without ethanol is what you should use. Even 87 octane is too high. A couple of degrees timing advance might prove beneficial.

 

Jon. 

 

 

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Jon!!

 

Thank you for your advice, always appreciated!

I didn't want to bother you until I checked in here to determine if this "hot soak"  was something other Buick owners have experienced.

 

I'm pretty sure after reading others comments that the leak up at the countershaft is just as you say.....  lubrication running out.

 

I will try the lower octane fuel at my next fill up.  I always figured the higher octane fuel MUST be better, so I put it in every vehicle I own.  Never gave it a second thought.

 

I have not used any kind of additive in the Buick like Larry mentioned above.  (Marvel's, Diesel, ATF, Startron).  Maybe they have merit?  

Do they reduce the "high octane effect"  or maybe better said,  raise the boiling point  of the high test fuels?  Do they help with vapor lock and this "Hot Soak" phenomena?  Just spitballing here.

 

(** I DO add about one cup of ATF to every 10 gallons of gasoline in my Model "A" Fords.  I was told it helps lubricate the valves.  Been doing it for over 25 years.  The "L-Head" seems to like it.   But I run the Buick clean.)

 

* Tighten up the carburetor mounting nuts

* Change the fuel to an 87 octane

* Advance the timing a few degrees

* Additives???

 

Love these discussions!

 

Gary

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

Matthew is right.  A NOS carb that has been sitting on the shelf for so many years has gaskets that are dry and the rubber/neoprene parts have also dried out.  With this new "Gasahol" that they are selling today, this is one of the downsides of this fuel.  It is designed to burn with less emissions and they have beefed it up with elements to keep fuel injection systems clean.  BUT it plays hell with carburetors. 

 

If you have a good carburetor contact in your area, consult with him (or her) regarding having the carb rebuilt with modern gaskets and parts.  There should be no "weeping" of fuel anywhere on a fresh carburetor.  The fact that it is weeping through the base gasket and out the shaft (pin) on the side telegraphs that there is internal leaking.  Snugging down the nuts on the base will not stop the leak as it is leaking internally.  It sure didn't take long for this great fuel that we have at out disposal to  play  havoc with your new carb. 

 

You may want to look into a source for alcohol free fuel if they sell it in your neck of the woods.  Not cheap but it solves the problem.  There are sources for that gas or talk to your carb guy about other alternatives that you can add to the pump gas once you get the carb rebuilt.  The big problem with this crappy gas is that cars sitting are subject to the alcohol eating away at the pot metal carbs, gaskets  and gumming up the internals,  eventually leading to poor running and even failure. 

 

Unless you live in Eastern Arizona, or other areas in the country that sell alcohol free fuels, we are screwed with this crappy gas.  It was not designed with the car hobby in mind.  The EPA and their regulators could give a rip about our old cars.  Bureaucrats/environmentalists  are extremely myopic on this subject. 

 

Don't let it pass as it could lead to much larger issues, especially  if the leaking gets worse.

 

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

 

Randy 

Link to post
Share on other sites

In the UK I don't think we have as much ethanol in our gasoline. The ethanal does destroy solder in brass tanks and some gaskets. It plays havoc in the bronze carb on my 1903 Crestmobile and corrodes the flutes in the jets. For my old cars and motorcycles that don't do loads of miles I take the ethanol out of the fuel by mixing water with the gasoline in a plastic container. The ethanol is absorbed into the water and the gasoline poured out.

IMG_3080.thumb.JPG.4404bcfcc90e903b217d176bce4f6e5a.JPG

I put in a couple of drops of food colouring into the water and fill the water up to the red tape line on the side of the plastic container.

The gasoline is then poured in and the container shaken and then left overnight.

IMG_3081.thumb.JPG.eb9d16ce78af383745c87a22ba0fdecf.JPG

The next day the water and ethanol can be poured away and you are left with ethanol free fuel.

 

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now that is an interesting solution for getting the ethyl alcohol out of gasoline, at least for small batches.

 

And since alcohols, whether ethanol or methanol, are hygroscopic - meaning they absorb and are miscible with water - they also corrode ferrous-based fuel line components by carrying water into and through the fuel system. This is why, for small engines used in lawn & garden equipment, one should always run them until they are completely out of fuel before putting them away for the winter.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

My old cars and motorbikes do run a lot better on the gasoline with the ethanol removed. I also seem to get more miles per gallon, although I have not checked this accurately.

For any UK AACA members reading this: I tried doing this with BP Ultra and there seemed to be no ethanol in this petrol (gasoline), as the water level in the container did not rise after it had been well shaken and left for 24hrs.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...