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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

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Friday October 5, 2018:  Interior Part 3:  Passenger's side rear quarter panel installation




The Model 48 has a dome light switch on the passenger's side pillar.  I figured this should line up properly so it was the first piece I installed.




I gave the fabric a little tug, and marked the dome lamp mounting plate screw holes and the opening for the switch and wires to come through.




Now I have marks to punch the holes open.




On the bench, I used a small punch for the holes, and a larger punch to create the switch opening.




Ready to go.




I had to replace my original dome switch as it does not work any more.  I may open it up later and restore it, but for now, this works.

Check to make sure your switch fits through the pre-punched hole in the cardboard first.  Mine didn't and it made for a little stress.




I ran two screws through the upholstery panel into the dome light switch mounting holes to be sure it's all aligned properly.

Then, I carefully trimmed the panels where they meet at that angle until they fit nice and flush together.

Next, I trimmed a little cardboard away from the window opening so the garnish molding will fit without too much fuss.


After carefully trimming the cardboard, I again test fitted everything with the screw holding the pillar panel in place.

Once satisfied, it was time to move on to the installation.




I sprayed a little Permatex Headliner Adhesive to the perimeter of the cardboard that will be in contact with the metal in the car.

This is the back side of the panel.

Let it tack up for 5 minutes.




Now into the car, I again installed the screws to align everything.  

I cut several releasing incisions and used the "rounded pie" slice technique Ted showed me in a previous post.

The fabric with the black dots are the ones I had to push in first to get a good finish on the corners.  So I marked them when it was out of the car.




Flapping the fabric back to expose the cardboard, I ran a series of staples into the tack strip to secure the forward edge and the windlace.




Using a very thin plastic tool, I gently pushed the material up and under the panel.  This is why I sprayed the headliner adhesive under there first.

Now the fabric will stay nice and tight, and it was easy to let it lay nice and smooth.





Dome lamp switch plate installed and the panel is lined up to the windlace and the window opening nicely.




Next, I installed the lower panel / armrest.  I first tacked all that fabric all around the perimeter, again using the rounded slice technique.

Being I already pre-fit the panels, the seam aligned very very nice for me.  This panel hangs onto four hooks in the side of the car, and the armrest has two hooks to hold it.

Along the front edge (against the windlace) I tacked in a series of tiny brads, and pulled the fabric over the heads.




Next...  Part (4)


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Friday October 5, 2018:  Interior Part 4



With the pillar panel and the lower panel / armrest installed, it was time to install the upper panel with the headliner welting.

I taped along the headliner where the tack strip is located so I could shoot the staples without ripping the headliner or missing entirely!

Then I tried the panel in, made the releasing incisions where necessary and took my time aligning everything so the seams look good.





These air guns are just great.  I was using Duo-Fast 9/16" staples to go through the welt, the panel, the headliner and into the tack strip.




I worked nice and slow, being sure the welt laid in nice and straight without any weird ups and downs.  

Then I tucked in the fabric just like the pillar panel to give it a nice smooth finish.


Remove all four screws holding your window felt channel to install the garnish molding.  It slides between the two.


At this point, I pushed the garnish molding into place.  Watch your fingers when that thing grabs the lower sill!





The garnish is in, now you have to find your holes that hold the felt channel in place.

Using a punch, I went through the felt, the garnish molding and into the screw hole in the car.




Here is the rear quarter panels.  I'm very satisfied with the seams, the fit and finish.  

The garnish molding looks great against the new fabric.

You see I also installed the window riser handle.




So here's the passenger side as of tonight.


Going forward, I have to install the welt around the front window garnish molding, and install the garnish molding.

Then, up front there is a metal piece that gets covered with headliner material

Then the windshield garnish.  So, still a job ahead.


Have a great night!






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The positions of your front door handles comes down to where the armrests are located.  The handle on my 39 Roadmaster on the driver's door is aimed at 9:00 to clear the armrest.  The rear compartment left door handle is at about 7:00 for rear compartment passengers to easily open the door.  (Right side is reversed as to the clock.)

See photo with front passenger door.  The Special and Century models probably have different front door clearances.  The 1939 literature confirms what is on my car.  The 1937 may be different.



Edited by BuickBob49 (see edit history)
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Here's a photo of my left rear door. My 39 Roadmaster has an interior kit from the same vendor as yours.


My 49 Super has the original door fabric.  I'd been perplexed for 40 years by a worn through spot below the driver door handle until someone theorized on it.  Wouldn't you know, the woman from whom I purchased the car wore a big ring on her left hand. Over the 29 years that she had the car, she wore through the door fabric with that ring.  I should know, she gave me the ring nearly four decades ago!  Big setting!



Edited by BuickBob49 (see edit history)
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Gary, I don't know if the door panel is slightly too thick, or possibly not quite seated in that area of the door, or if something is odd about your door handle but I don't think that the handle should rub the door panel. 

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9 hours ago, 39BuickEight said:

Do any of your handles have springs behind them?



Only the window riser handle had a spring behind it.  The vent and the door handle did not.


7 hours ago, MCHinson said:

but I don't think that the handle should rub the door panel. 


I agree with you.  I don't think it should be rubbing, but the panels lay nice and flat over the door so...  don't know.....



For all you '37 owners...  Question:

Does your front door garnish molding have a welting attached to it?  The car had one when I took it apart, but did not have the fabric piece and I 'm wondering if the previous installer opted to not use the fabric, but place a welt around the front, top and rear of the garnish?  There was no welt attached to the rear garnish moldings, just the front two. Curious.




As I was removing the interior in January, 2017:  Notice the welting around the forward edge of the door garnish molding.




Garnish moldings out and on the bench.  This welt was glued to the inside.




Just another view of how it was applied.


I'm assuming this is correct being that LBB did send two strips of material that I assume is for this.  

Both are 6" short, but I don't know where else they would be used.

Edited by Gary W
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Here are photos that show the inside door handles on the front and back driver side doors on my 1937 Model 61. Ignore the totally worn out eschutcheons around the vent window crank. I am sure your inside door handles should also be slightly off of the fabric door trim. I suspect thicker escutcheons would solve your problem.  As for welting around the window garnish molding, on my car there is a piece of fabric that matches the door panel around the window, but I don't see any welting, unless that fabric is what you are talking about. I would assume that if that is what you are talking about, the short pieces they sent you would be the correct length for the front doors of a 4 door sedan but are too short for your two door sedan. 




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Looking great Gary. All inside door handles are usually mounted at 5 o’clock on the passenger side and 7 on the drivers side. This allows for a normal arm length to push the handle forward till it stops and for outward movement of the forearm to open the door. If you try it, you’ll understand. Any other position creates somewhat of an unnatural movement to open the door. This is why you see factory pictures of the handles in those locations.

     The handles hitting the fabric is an unfortunate circumstance which often happens with the new interior panels. The new fiber boards are often thicker than the originals to begin with. Often the new panels are slightly more stuffed than the originals compounding the problem. With the earlier cars, I often put a couple blind nails through the panel in the location of the handles and window cranks. On the early cars, it’s the window cranks more than the handles that contact the panels. Often you’ll see wear circles around the cranks and that looks really bad. I would look at a way to pull the center of your panel in some. Not sure if there’s any wood in your doors in the center area to blind nail into. Just one or two  nails would do the trick. You can also try to pre-flex the panel in and fasten the sides with some side pressure towards the inside of the panel to help flex the panels in. Not sure if this is possible on your car, just techniques I’ve used in the past to help with your issue.

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Actually the way the doors and window cranks attach with the "jesus" clips the thicker escutcheons would actually do nothing. The cranks are set by the indentation in the spline that the "jesus" clip sits in. Thicker escutcheons  would just make it harder to put the cranks and handles on. Just something from my experience. So if you want to get the door handle further off the fabric you have to get the spline out farther somehow.


For those of you asking what a "jesus" clip is... well I don't know the proper term, I've just always heard them called by that term.... because when you try to put the door handle on and they spring out and fly off into never never land to only be found months or years later you say "jesus where the hell did that clip go". (apologies to to the religious amoungst us...)

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Saturday October 6, 2018:  Passenger Rear Quarter Interior Panels  

Part 1 of 2  


Today between soccer games and running to the airport, I managed to get the left, rear panels installed:





Again, started with the armrest.  It had to be reupholstered in the new seat fabric that I'm getting.




I had to use a strip of wood to help support the staples, but I got it all done.




I always test the panel ON ITS OWN without the armrest to be sure the mounting holes align, the surfaces align.




Just like the other side, I had to cut a hole for the fourth mounting tab in the body.  This panel is only cut with three for some reason.




Again, but this time I test fit the panel WITH the armrest, again to make any final trim adjustments down by the floor... to get it all fitting nicely.




Align and throw the fabric over the armrest so you can staple the panel to the armrest flange and secure them together.




Now that these are secured as one unit, I make the perimeter cuts to pull the fabric around the panel.




I go all around, testing and testing before cutting too close to the panel.  You don't want the cut to show.




On the back side, I sprayed a border of headliner adhesive.  Let is set 5 minutes.




Once tacky, I started pulling the fabric tight and wrapped it around the perimeter of the panel.




Back in the car, hooked on all the body hooks and aligned with the door windlace, I made the cut to expose the window riser handle.




Then I bought over the pillar panel.  I did this part FIRST yesterday because that side has a dome light and I wanted the holes to line up correctly.

Today, I set the bottom panel in first, then this pillar.  Here, I'm getting the forward edge tight to the windlace and measuring against the lower panel and the window opening.




After trimming the cardboard, I went back to the car for a final check.  Looks good.




I made all the perimeter releasing cuts first using Ted's "rounded pizza slice" technique.  

Then, like yesterday, I sprayed the headliner adhesive around the perimeter on the side that will stick to the car.




Flap the fabric over and staple the leading edge through the windlace to secure the forward edge.




A little pressure and you can pull the lower panel away just enough to start pushing the fabric under the pillar panel.

I used the thin, plastic tool and started smoothing the fabric under the panel.  The adhesive is under there to hold it secure.



Part two next....


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Saturday October 6, 2018:  Passenger Rear Quarter Interior Panels  

Part 2 of 2  




Continue tucking the fabric under the pillar panel




And the pillar panel is nice and secure.  The seams line up very nice if you take your time and trim the cardboard carefully.




I figured this seam is always visible so I wanted to be sure it really looked nice.




Now for the upper panel with the attached headliner welt.




Like yesterday, I started by marking out the roof tack strip with blue tape as a guide when I'm stapling.




Again... I start right at the most visible seam where the pillar panel meets the upper panel.  




Working backward to secure the panel over the window, and then forward to secure the welting to the headliner, the panel is in.




I made the releasing incisions with the panel in the car because I found it easier to know exactly where the window opening is.

Nothing can intrude on the window opening or you won't get your garnish molding in there.

Once the cuts are made, go around and tuck the fabric up under the panel.




Once tucked in, the panel looks so much neater.




Install the rubber bumpers in the garnish molding.




Remove all four window channel felt retaining screws so the garnish molding will slide in.

You need to push up hard, then the lower will jump over the steel frame and snap in place.

Carefully find the channel holes, the garnish holes and the body holes and replace the four screws.




Window riser knob installed and the panels are in!!!


As I said before, these kits come with NO instructions at all.  I hope by detailing the procedures in a step-by-step fashion it will help someone out.

Of course, this is how I did it.  I'm sure a professional installer knows the many tricks to the trade, but I hope I can give someone the confidence to tackle this job.




Tomorrow I want to install the front pillar windlace retainers, the front windshield garnish molding, the rearview mirror and hopefully the defroster vents.

It's my mother-in-law's 80th........  what to do, what to do.....


I can't install the front door garnish moldings yet until LBB sends the welting at 65" length.  The ones they sent are about 6" short.


Have a great night out there!


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2 hours ago, Gary W said:

It's my mother-in-law's 80th........  what to do, what to do.....


I realize that your mother-in-law in "only" 80, and your Buick is 81, but I suggest you proceed with caution!  We all know you're frustrated by the delays that were beyond your control, but a few more days won't make a difference at this point!  Take a deep breath.  ?

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Great tutorial Gary, I feel the same way as you. If by taking pictures and explaining in detail what I do on one of my resto threads helps somebody down the road, it's worth the time posting on the forum. Somebody down the road will definitely benefit from your thread. Be careful, you're going to start having people ask you who did the work on your car and then when you tell them you did it, they'll talk you into doing it for others! Ask me how I know. LOL   

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Sunday October 7, 2018:  Front pillar windlace retainers, windshield garnish molding, rearview mirror, defrosters


I finished last night getting the last of the panels installed.  Today I turned my attention to the front of the car





Flashback to November 3, 2016...  Ready to drive her home.  

The focus is the windshield pillar and the windlace retainer sandwiched between the windshield garnish molding and the front door garnish molding.




January, 2017:  documenting the removal of the windlace retainer, 




Peeling back the fabric reveals a steel retainer, held in by three serrated nails.  Notice how nice the fabric is tucked around the steel part.




And now out, I can see where the laces were cut, how they all fit...




I wire wheeled these, primed them and painted them in the Summer.  My marks are on there from when I removed them from the car.

The single hash mark denotes "drivers front", the arrow points "up", always marked on the side that sits to the car so they don't show.

Quick little dremel trick that saves tons of time a year later!




Extra headliner fabric up top, the original fabric just under, the metal retainers and the nails, still bagged and tagged.




Mark where the nails go through.  




Punch the holes out.  This way the nail (I ended up using screws) won't pull your fabric on the way in.




Temporarily, I used duct tape to keep the fabric in position while I went out to the car.




Pull back the windlace just enough to find the body mounting holes.  Mark them with blue tape because you cannot find them when you are juggling all the material...





Align the metal retainer, punch through the holes in the fabric, carry the punch through the windlace and any other fabric in there.

I used #10 SS slotted screws and they fit perfectly and the retainer tightened up nicely.

Once tight, remove the duct tape, flap the material over the windlace




And I tucked it under the rubber windshield seal to finish the install.




With the windlace retainers installed, it was time to install the windshield garnish molding.

The service manual states to replace the center division after the garnish is installed, so I had to remove it first.

I taped the outside center division to the glass so the center piece wouldn't fall off and scratch the hood.

Then it's just four screws and the center division comes off with the rubber under it.




Protect, protect, protect that beautiful woodgrain.  I really didn't know how this was going to go.




My son and I had a little slow go for a bit, but we were able to get it in.  Notice, no screws yet.

Still trying to line up the top where the rearview mirror attaches.




I did get all the lower screws in place, then replaced the center division, and attached the rearview mirror.

Then I needed help again to install the defroster deflectors.  What a pain with all the wires, glove box, radio!!!

Much easier coming out!



Part (2) next




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Sunday October 7, 2018:  Front pillar windlace retainers, windshield garnish molding, rearview mirror, defrosters  (Part 2)




Here's the dash now with the defroster deflectors installed.  It really looks beautiful!




You can see the rearview mirror and the windlace retainers installed.

I need longer defroster hoses now that I've installed a radio.




This resizing really makes all the photos look so fuzzy...  Sorry about that.


Question:  I have all the lower screws and the two that go up the sides of the windshield garnish molding.

I cannot for the life of me find where the upper screws go in!




Here's a photo of the front when I took the glass out.  It looks like the garnish screws made an imprint between the windshield rubber and the frame.

They aren't really in anything....  This can't be correct..... correct?



Thanks for following along!!



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I found that i had to use an awl or pick type tool with a flashlight to 1. find the hole and 2. give me a sense of the "angle of approach" for the screw. with that it was easier to get the screws in and done.

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Here is my homemade ice pick/fabric lifting tool and my Brad pusher which is magnetized. The head of the Brad goes in the tube then you simply push hard or tap the handle with a mallet. I left the Brad high just to show the location and angle I’ll put the tip into the fabric. Go into the fabric about an inch then lift the  handle up away from the fabric to pop the fabric over the head of the brad. You need to first get through the fabric with the point of the tool then lay the tool almost flat so you don’t stick the tip into the panel board. Sometimes I lift the tip up popping the fabric over the nail head too. If you’re in deep enough with the brad, the fabric will pop over fairly easily. 





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Thank you Ted!  I really appreciate the expert advice.  

I have about 20 tiny brads to pull the fabric over, but I  just needed to know the proper technique.  I don't want to ruin the fabric at this point!!  

I'll get out in the garage today and give it a try.


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Wednesday October 10, 2018:  Pulling fabric over the brads


The forward edge of the rear panels attaches to the nailer strip using a bunch of fine wire brads. 

I used a slight variation of Ted's technique displayed above.... and it worked very well!

Thank you!




Here you can see where the material is kind of "dimpled" at that lower area where I just pushed the brad through.




Another close up view of the "dimple" it creates.




I'm using a retired dental tool like the "ice pick" Ted detailed above.




Going in parallel to the fabric, but not grabbing the foam board underneath, I was able to turn the handle, lifting the tine and freeing the material from the head of the brad.




Look at that!  Presto-magico!  Thanks again!







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I don't know if a professional upholstery shop could have done as nice a job as what you have done here.  Unless they took the car apart and had the experience in putting it back together, it would not have been as nice.  Since you are not a "shop" you have the luxury of taking your time, test fitting and checking, fitting and checking until all is lined up correctly.  The results are absolutely stunning.  Plus you have the Forum members to council you on questions that may be puzzling you with the small items that you are not certain of.   


Your installation is truly a work of art.   And the proof is in the pudding, so to speak.   I cannot imagine what you would have had to pay to have this job done by a high end upholstery shop, but it would have been a very large expense in your restoration.  And it probably would not have been done as nicely as your job.  Who knows what corners they may have "cut" to get the job done?  You have not missed a trick with this.


I am in question about the clearance of your door handle.  Does the passenger side have the same issue?  And do the pictures show how much clearance there was originally?  If the clearance was there, then it has to be the mounting of the stem?  If that checks out, then there has to be an issue with the panel and the fabric not seating against the frame properly?  


We are sure that you will figure it out.  You are too finite of an individual to let that get past you.  I am sure that it is whirling about in your head and that there is an answer to the mystery.


All I can say is.......WOW.  You have done such a fantastic job with the upholstery.  Can't wait to see the seats being done and then installed.  That will be the end of the job? Or are there any other items left to do? 




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Thank you for the kind words! 


I really appreciate the support and I am so happy that my work is being followed by so many fellow enthusiasts!

I have to admit, I was nervous about tackling the interior.  The most valuable installation tool, the thing that helped the most, was meticulous notes and photographs as I removed the interior from the car.  Especially those rear panels that attach to the armrests.  I studied them over and over and developed a plan to do the install.  I actually wrote my notes directly on the panels as I removed them and it helped immensely.


I really wish these kits had some sort of instructions, even a simple step-by-step  "guide" so you kinda know what to do first....  But I'm sure there are as many opinions and techniques out there as there are  installers.  Everyone has their own "tricks of the trade", their own "order of operations"  and maybe that's why they don't include hard and fast instructions?  All I hope is that by detailing the way I did it, someone else out there can see the steps I took, the materials I used and maybe will decide to tackle their own interior job.  And most likely will come up with a better way to do the job!


All in all, I am very satisfied with the quality, fit and finish of the LeBaron kit.  A few spots needed trimming, but overall a very nice kit.  I think the key is take your time, measure, measure and then measure before cutting anything.  




My notes, numbered right on the panels before I took them all apart.

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Condition of the panels that I was working with:




They were all cracked and stained, but they served their purpose getting the new panels installed.


It was with great pleasure that I finally dumped these in the trash!!!



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Fabulous and fascinating work you are doing.  Your photos and notes have been, and will continue to aid my project greatly.  My car, (model 47 Special) is missing one of the rear seat armrest frames.  Might someone offer an idea how one might find an old one, or fabricate a new one?


Neill McKinstray

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Hi Neill;


You should try Dave Tachney first.  Give  him a call and see what inventory he has.  I had one frame that was good, but the passenger side was in pieces.  It took a lot of epoxy, wood glue, duct tape and some wood strips to create enough support to get it back in restorable shape.  


Your Model 47 is a four-door "plain back" sedan.  My Model 48 is a two-door model.  I wonder if the size of the single door vs the size of your doors changes the size of the rear armrest, or are they fairly standard along the different models?  My part # A-99001 was molded into the driver's side.  My passenger's side armrest was damaged right at that spot where the part number is molded in.  I'm sure if you can find one, it can be easily trimmed to work in your car.  They seem like they are made from some sort of pressed cardboard??  or something along those lines.



Here's your Model 47.  I notice the rear door hinges are over the rear fender a bit.  I think that will change the size of the armrests.

If you can zoom in on the drawn inset photo from this page of the brochure, that armrest is shaped completely different that mine.




This interior photo of your back seat shows your arm rests are differently shaped than mine.  

I don't see ash receivers in these either.




My Model 48 has a lot of room between the door and the rear fender.  

I don't know if that changes the size of the rear seat upholstery panels and armrests?




This photo of a Model 48.  Here you can see the difference in the shape.




After cleaning up 80 years of crud, this is what I had left to work with.



I finally ended up using epoxy to hold all the seams together.




Ready to be reupholstered.



I'm so glad to hear my work is helping you out!

Good Luck with your restoration!


Here's the "Armrest Build" from March:




Edited by Gary W
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Friday October 19, 2018:  Installation of Seats:   Part One:  Rear Seat


UPS delivered the upholstered seats from LeBaron Bonney at 4:00.  My son and I spent about an hour getting them installed. 

Actually, after restoring every little bit of this car, the seats kinda "drop right in".

We were able to take her out for a little ride around the block.  Put about 5 miles on the odometer.  

But the sky was getting dark and cloudy and rain was only minutes away, so back in the garage she went.



First four photos are from LeBaron Bonney.  Scott Holbrook sent me these from their upholstery shop when the front seat cushion was done:




This is the new fabric that coordinates with the panel fabric.




Couple of shots of their workmanship.




Drivers side




Passengers side.




4:00.  The long-awaited shipment finally arrives!




Step 1:  Push the beast out of the garage so we had space to open the doors get the cushions in.




The rear quarter, drivers side.  The heavy Dynaliner that goes around the trunk opening had to come off.

 It prevented the rear seat from fully seating against the package tray and made it quite impossible to run the screws in from the trunk.




Front compartment.  The only thing that had to be removed was that steel plate that holds the front seat bottom in place.




Unboxed and ready to go!




I first crawled under the car and pushed an awl through the Dynaliner so we could locate the mounting holes.

My son was inside with the sheetrock knife marking the openings.




We cut the opening large enough for the metal tabs to fit in.




While I was under, he was inside making the cuts.




Heave the back cushion up and over the mounting holes, a couple well placed shoves.....




And we had it positioned.  Tighten up the mounting bolts inside, run three screws through the trunk to secure the back and this cushion is done.




The lower cushion simple drops in place.  And I have my first passenger!!



Front seat next....

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Friday October 19, 2018:  Installation of Seats:   Part Two:  Front Seat



Onto the front seat:




With one of us on each side, we held the seat frame forward, dropped the rear into the slide channels under there and slid it into position.

Then the metal side retainers can be installed to clip the front slide channels and lock the seat down.




There are well placed holes in the wood frame so you can access these bolts.




Then with a single screw, the outer hinges attach to the seat frame.




Line up the middle hinge arms and run the single bolt through.




I will get better photos once the weather clears, but I'm pretty happy with the result.




September, 2017...  1 month away from getting his driver's license.




Ready for it's maiden voyage!  



The interior is not fully complete yet.  I still have to:

Attach the welt to the front window garnish moldings, and install the garnish moldings. (I'm waiting for the welting still)

Install the front door arm rests / door pulls

Install the rear shade

Install the robe rails, which are fabric ropes behind the front seats.

Install the trim around the base of the front seat.

I want to either make or find floor mats.  I can see this light camel carpet getting very dirty, very quickly.





Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
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Friday October 19, 2018:  Maiden Drive......  Road Manners


Kyle got behind the wheel and took her out for her first drive.

I recorded this quick 16-second video, thinking I could drop it right here on the blog, but the size limitation only allows about 2 seconds of video.


Heres the YouTube Link:




Couple of observations:

All the gauges seem to be functioning fine.  

Oil pressure is around 30 - 35  when running, drops to about 10 at idle.

Checked the speedometer with the WAZE app and its right on the money.

Temperature stayed around 140 - 160...  But rose when we parked it back into the garage to about 180 after sitting for a few minutes.

It is pulling slightly to the right, I plan to get the front aligned soon.

The front end just looks and feels like it's sitting about an inch too high.  I think my new coils are for a Century or perhaps a Special with side mounts...  Just looks a little off.

The steering wheel needs to be centered while the car is running.  I thought I had it perfect but it is a few degrees off.

The horn blows when you steer to the left, but only when sitting still.  Not when driving.

The brakes work, but feel like they need to work better.  Maybe needs further adjustment at the wheels?

She runs strong, quiet and tight!  No rattles, squeaks... I think all the Dynamat / Dynaliner really helps the quietness.


Like I said earlier, we only put about 5 - 7 miles on her.  Its raining today.  I hope to stretch her legs a little more tomorrow morning.



Have a great weekend!




Edited by Gary W (see edit history)
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