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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)


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Gary,

 

When cutting out the "pizza slices" from the corners, BE SURE  that you have at least 1/3" of material that is on the back side of the panel.  This ensues that you do not have the material "creeping" back to the edge of the board and then exposing the panel.  As careful as you are, I am sure that will not be an issue.  Without seeing an auto upholsterer for him (or her) to give you tips, as smart as you are, you can figure this one  out.  This is not rocket science, just taking your time, as you always do, and cutting carefully.  Having all that material in the corners always is an issue and getting it to lie flat gives the look of a professional job.

 

Lucky you that you got to do a "trial run" before the material arrives.

 

Randy

 

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Hi Guys!

I just returned from vacation.  Took the family to Italy for the Easter break.

Beautiful country but it's great to be home!  

Still no word from LeBaron Bonney but I'm hopeful my interior kit arrives soon.  

I can't wait to get back to the Buick.  So close to the finish line!

Stay tuned!

 

Gary

 

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interesting. I ordered interior for my 1936 yesterday and was told I would have it by middle of May. Supposed to expedite the headliner. Hope I don't have the delays you guys are discussing

Have really enjoyed the detail of this thread and attention to detail. Great historical record of restoration. thanks for your efforts Gary.

Rod

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I received notice this morning that my LBB kit will arrive tomorrow, just shy of 16 weeks from placing order...  I`m happy anyways.. Hoping I`ll still be happy after opening box..

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We were in Firenze and Roma last April with a side trip to Siena and a stop in Orvieto. It was an incredible trip. Of course we weren't there nearly as long. 

 

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I just got an e-mail from LeBaron Bonney.

 

 The "2-N" fabric (The "2-N" is the brown fabric that faded to green) is done and getting its "backing" before LBB gets it.  

They expect to take delivery in 1-2 weeks, and my kit is first on the production line.  

So, it looks like I'll be waiting another few weeks for my kit to arrive, but at least I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

In the meantime, I'll keep practicing with the kit I have.  I want to learn how to get the panels nice and taut and use my "trial kit" as a template for the final installation.

 

Tom...  Glad to hear your kit is being delivered soon!  I'll be watching you install it!!

 

Have a great day out there

 

Gary

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It's good to know what's going on. It's a shame a supply issue is going to hold things up. Now that I'm back on here and caught up a bit, I sense I'll be going into withdrawal. 

 

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Now that you are "marking time" until the arrival of the interior beautification materials, I wanted to revisit a subject I think you mentioned about one year ago. And that is the matter of an engine oil filter. Others can correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that in 1937 a canister type, engine oil, bypass filter was still an option, and not a standard feature. I think it was used to filter oil initially headed to the rocker arms and shaft. Some restorers have chosen to add such a filter if their Buick didn't come with one. What have you decided to do?

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On 3/30/2017 at 12:50 PM, 1967 - 1997 Riviera said:

 

Now I'd like to see just how you put the new, full-flow oil filter arrangement together. And what (spin-on?) filter you have chosen to use.

 

Somehow last year,  (March 30, 2017 to be exact), I think my thread got a little mixed in with another regarding a full-flow oil filter.  I didn't install an oil filter in the engine.  I actually never knew it was even an option for this engine.  I overhauled the block and restored it as close to factory as I could.

 I change my oil in all my antique cars every 500 miles or once every year regardless of mileage.  

So I'm sorry, but I cannot add any information regarding oil filtration for this engine.

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3 hours ago, 1967 - 1997 Riviera said:

Now that you are "marking time" until the arrival of the interior beautification materials, I wanted to revisit a subject I think you mentioned about one year ago. And that is the matter of an engine oil filter. Others can correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that in 1937 a canister type, engine oil, bypass filter was still an option, and not a standard feature. I think it was used to filter oil initially headed to the rocker arms and shaft. Some restorers have chosen to add such a filter if their Buick didn't come with one. What have you decided to do?

Riviera, If you`ll go to Buick-Modified and read Ben Bruces "Modified 263 for my 51D" He tells and shows how he put a full flow filter system on his inline 8(263).. starts on pg2 post #43..

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As far as I know, in 1937 oil filters were neither standard, nor available as an option. The service manual indicates, "The clean oil supply obtained by the use of floating screen makes the oil filter used on previous models unnecessary."

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Saturday April 14, 2018:  Sharing some photos outdoors

 

The temperature got up into the 80's here this weekend so I dropped my plastic crate behind the wheel and drove the Buick out into the cul-de-sac to take a few photos.

It's such a beautiful time of year with the dogwoods and bradfords in bloom.  It's a small "bloom" window and I didn't want to miss it!

The paint really looks nice out there, almost looking blue as it reflects the sky.

As shaky as it is sitting on a crate and pushing the pedals, boy it feels nice behind that wheel!

 

Enjoy!

 

 

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Hopefully only a couple of weeks to the finish line!!

 

Have a great week!

Gary

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The rubber is from Steele Rubber.  The one in the catalog that is correct for my car.  It fit very nice, as does all their rubber items!

 

Here's the link to the windshield install with the rubber seal:

 

 

 

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Gary,

 

Being on the South West Coast, we do not have Dogwoods or Bradfords out here.  (We have other blooming trees).  You have done a magnificent job on your Buick.

It would be nice to see the Buick in it's first show back there.  We just had our La Jolla Motor Car Classic.  It is a concourse show and your Buick certainly would have taken first in the "Pre War Domestic" catagory.  

 

Randy   

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Gary,  absolutely, beautifully, fantastically gorgeous!! 

What a lesson in restoration education for all to see...  best comment was the better than when it rolled out of the factory reference! Truth!!

 

PS- A buddy of mine who's following along said this...

 

"That Buick is Gangster!! Does he have a Tommy gun to go with it! HA!"  

 

I loved somewhere in this "thread" (more like an encyclopedia) where somebody said to another member, there's a picture in section "X page 63..." For most mortal folks....no. 

Keep it up brother...!!

Hey- do you still have the ('64?) VW Ragtop? Could you email me a picture? 

Thanks bro... love ya! 

#1

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The Bug:  "Ingrid"

1967 Volkswagen Convertible

Karmann Body (Cabriolet?)

 

 

Quick story:  14 years ago (2004), my younger brother was just turning 40.  His wife asked me to find  "the red convertible you guys had when you were in college"  as a surprise for his 40th.  She gave me about 9 months advance notice, and I found a beauty.  It had only 8,011 original miles.

No rust, no rot, all original and runs like a top.  The owner put some chrome do-dads on it, I did a complete brake job, installed new tires and put a newer 1971 carburetor on it.  It's been 14 trouble-free years since.  The car is a blast to drive!  I never mentioned it because technically, I'm only the caretaker.

 

The car was stored at my house from 2004 to November 2016 when I purchased the Buick.  I kept it detailed, running, maintained...... took care of it like it was my own!  Now it's at my mom's house.  She has a two-car garage.  I hope to build a garage soon so Ingrid can join her "sisters" once again!

 

DSC_0309.thumb.jpg.f2db0d5e3dbd7221980fc3d31ecaca3f.jpg

This was the "line-up" when she was with me.  

 

 

 

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July 2017 at Monmouth Park car show.

 

Gary

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Gary W said:

The Bug:  "Ingrid"

1967 Volkswagen Convertible

Karmann Body (Cabriolet?)

 

 

Quick story:  14 years ago (2004), my younger brother was just turning 40.  His wife asked me to find  "the red convertible you guys had when you were in college"  as a surprise for his 40th.  She gave me about 9 months advance notice, and I found a beauty.  It had only 8,011 original miles.

No rust, no rot, all original and runs like a top.  The owner put some chrome do-dads on it, I did a complete brake job, installed new tires and put a newer 1971 carburetor on it.  It's been 14 trouble-free years since.  The car is a blast to drive!  I never mentioned it because technically, I'm only the caretaker.

 

The car was stored at my house from 2004 to November 2016 when I purchased the Buick.  I kept it detailed, running, maintained...... took care of it like it was my own!  Now it's at my mom's house.  She has a two-car garage.  I hope to build a garage soon so Ingrid can join her "sisters" once again!

 

DSC_0309.thumb.jpg.f2db0d5e3dbd7221980fc3d31ecaca3f.jpg

This was the "line-up" when she was with me.  

 

 

 

5ad7e2df03643_JFM2008(40).thumb.jpg.7643a8c3ed7819d23789683dfe65a2fa.jpg

 

 

5ad7e2eb3bd1a_Winter04-05(47).thumb.jpg.bcfb8f4d48cf353747c6a5fe56188c25.jpg

 

 

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July 2017 at Monmouth Park car show.

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

Wow that's a beauty! 

 

 Some say 1967 is the best year to own... Still has the old style look with the towel bar bumpers, has some one year only unique parts, and has the increased ease and reliability being the first year of the 12 volt electrical system. 

 

I prefer 1962...first year of the slightly larger taillights... First year of the in dash gas gauge... Last year of the front hood Wolfsburg Crest. 

 

1.jpg

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Back in the early `70s I put myself thru college buying/fixing/selling VWs. Almost all were engine problems, mainly from a previous mechanic not knowing what he was doing, over torquing head bolts which resulted in pulling the threads from the block, and the other thing is sheet metal baffles that control the flow of air for cooling around the cylinders were left out. I also think that most VW owners were not aware of the marks on the speedometer, for which gear you should be in for cooling purposes. I`m still a little bug fan!!  Tom

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I will have the same situation with my (2) 1925s. PA and NJ had front and back matching plates into the 1950s. I keep the period year of Manufacture plate on the front while the current antique registration plate is on the rear. I will put the rear plate on the front of the other car as well.

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Gary

Attempting to install my windshield on my 1936 special. Looked back at your entries and find at page 26 you installed the two piece glass but can't find any entry showing installation of the center divider/molding for the windshield. I have my rubber molding on the two piece windshield and placed the molding in the middle and was going to install as one piece. I note you installed the glass with rubber seal first and apparently installed the molding at a later time. Interested in how you installed the center divider/molding and if any secrets to getting it in place. I have made one attempt to install windshield and without molding think it would be easier to get it in but was worried about getting that center divider in. Do you have recollection of how you got the molding piece in? Thanks

Rod

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I got a matching set of 1930 plates, and had them restored.  ( By the way, the "M" is for Monmouth County, so I considered myself lucky to find these!)  I keep the registered "QQ" Historic plate on the back, but for the car shows, I put these up front.  

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57 minutes ago, rlcokc said:

Gary

Attempting to install my windshield on my 1936 special.

 

Hello Rod!  

 

I installed the windshield center division channel  AFTER  the windshield glass was installed. 

The night before I installed the windshield, I stretched the new rubber gasket around both glass pieces and set two 1/4" MDF blocks between the panes to create a gap and give the new rubber seal a little stretch.

Set your glass / rubber seal over the lower pinch weld first, then using a string or glass tools, pull the rubber gasket out from under the glass and around the perimeter of the glass to seat the new rubber gasket, without the center division.

Now the glass is set in position, what I did was to CAREFULLY place the 1/4" block back between the panes to again create the gap for the center division channel.  If you have helpers "pulling" the glass to the edges to create the gap,  it is easier to place the "spacer" block in position.

I used new rubber from Steele for the center division channel.  It had to be tapped first because there was rubber in the threads.  DO NOT TAP THE HOLES with the rubber assembled.  Tap the holes with the rubber out on the bench.  The metal is a very very soft brass material that easily bends when the screws bottom out!  

So, after the metal was re-painted, slide the rubber into the  channel.  (Silicone helps here).  I had two metal parts for inside the car.  A strong steel "base" that goes under the softer, woodgrained part for support.

I used silicone over the rubber, slid the rubber between the panes and started pulling the division channel slowly using the screws.  Little by little, it will pull it tight.

 

Now, according to the book, the center division channel goes in AFTER the garnish molding, and before the rear view mirror.  So, I will once again remove my center channel when it's time to install the garnish molding.

But for now, it is keeping the space correct.

 

Couple Photos:  (Of course!!!)

 

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The night before glass install.  The two 1/4" MDF blocks helped stretch the rubber and maintain the gap.

 

 

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Sliding the lower rubber over the pinch weld.  John was pulling the rubber out to make the seal.  One MDF block still in the gap, but I actually removed it to ease the glass install.

 

 

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Installing the center division channel.  I used silicone on the new rubber,  began pushing it into the gap.  On the inside, you can see I just started running the screws in.

 

 

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I caught one screw and started tightening it.  Then I moved to the next center one, and so on.  It will slowly draw into position.

 

 

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You see the wood grained part.  There is a steel backer plate under this cosmetic piece that gives it a rigidity.

 

 

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Installed center division channel.   

 

 

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1937 Shop Manual.  Notice the garnish molding goes in BEFORE the center division channel.

But, being I cannot install the garnish until my interior arrives, I figured it will keep the glass positioned properly in the meantime.

 

 

Hope it helps!!!

 

Gary

 

 

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16 hours ago, Gary W said:

The Bug:  "Ingrid"

1967 Volkswagen Convertible

Karmann Body (Cabriolet?)

 

 

Quick story:  14 years ago (2004), my younger brother was just turning 40.  His wife asked me to find  "the red convertible you guys had when you were in college"  as a surprise for his 40th.  She gave me about 9 months advance notice, and I found a beauty.  It had only 8,011 original miles.

No rust, no rot, all original and runs like a top.  The owner put some chrome do-dads on it, I did a complete brake job, installed new tires and put a newer 1971 carburetor on it.  It's been 14 trouble-free years since.  The car is a blast to drive!  I never mentioned it because technically, I'm only the caretaker.

 

The car was stored at my house from 2004 to November 2016 when I purchased the Buick.  I kept it detailed, running, maintained...... took care of it like it was my own!  Now it's at my mom's house.  She has a two-car garage.  I hope to build a garage soon so Ingrid can join her "sisters" once again!

 

DSC_0309.thumb.jpg.f2db0d5e3dbd7221980fc3d31ecaca3f.jpg

This was the "line-up" when she was with me.  

 

 

 

5ad7e2df03643_JFM2008(40).thumb.jpg.7643a8c3ed7819d23789683dfe65a2fa.jpg

 

 

5ad7e2eb3bd1a_Winter04-05(47).thumb.jpg.bcfb8f4d48cf353747c6a5fe56188c25.jpg

 

 

DSC_0966.thumb.jpg.ab3d3f02769a990221afae0f28f2ac46.jpg

July 2017 at Monmouth Park car show.

 

Gary

 

 

 

Another Beauty! Thanks Gar... 

Remember the "Electric Banana?"  '71 Super Beetle in Canary Yellow with no heat?

But, it had headers... that was important. To pop wheelies... 

 

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I am ordering replacement glass for my car. 

What color was the factory glass back then?

My 36 glass has a greenish tint to it, but not really sure.

Also, if the factory glass was tinted were ALL the windows tinted?

Yours looks clear. 

I want to get as close to original as possible.

P.

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I don't think the glass was tinted originally.  When I ordered my full replacement set of glass for the car,  I was informed it comes "factory clear laminated safety glass".  

I believe he said I could get a tint at an additional cost, but I wanted it original so I simply ordered a clear set.  

 

I cannot find any corroboration in any of my manuals one way or another, so I went with his advice.

 

Gary

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@Gary W Thanks for your reply. I wanted green tint, but it is not period correct. Plus, I'm not sure how it would really look. They offer a gray smoke, which might work on the back and two rear side windows and everything else clear. But, in the end, I will probably go clear. While this car will for all practical purposes look original. My empty wallet is a testament to this :) I did not know what I was buying at the time. Everyone around here said, "oh those 2  door 36 Buicks are dime a dozen."  Then I  tried to buy body parts. LOL Anyway, I was planning on driving it as a marketing piece for one of my companies. Once I found out what I had, I decided to do it right. This, of course, was after we squeezed an updated LS drivetrain in the thing. Remember, I was going to drive it to market one of my companies and I wanted it reliable.  The Old Balby Weed Co. 

So, now everything is original steering wheel radio, etc.  All has been refurbished. I have a charcoal and light gray leather interior going in...  But from the outside, with the hood down, it is going to be authentic right down to the metal fleck paint they had in 36 which I uncovered under the horns. This is when I began to wonder about the car... :o Oh, yea, and well, with over 300HP to the rear tires, they are a little wider, but everything fits under the fenders. And, sigh, the original hubcaps won't fit. 

 

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4 hours ago, pplaut said:

What color was the factory glass back then?

My 36 glass has a greenish tint to it, but not really sure.

Also, if the factory glass was tinted were ALL the windows tinted?

 

The old glass had a layer of plastic or something in it that turns green with age. My 1939 Studebaker had the same thing going on. The colour was strongest near the edges. On cars that are really far gone you can see this stuff has gone cloudy. I think there was a picture of one somewhere recently, perhaps in the "What is it?" forum.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gary,

 

Any more news from Le Barron Bonney regarding when they will get you the upholstering kit for the Buick?  I am concerned as I am awaiting my fabric for my 36 Pontiac.  How long did it take for the fabric to show the issue with it changing color?  They  do not have the "kit" for my coupe but I have a very talented upholsterer who can "build" my seat and door panels.  Plus, being a business coupe, there are flaps and a compartmented shelf area behind the drivers side that traveling salesmen used to keep their forms and other items stored in.  Behind the passenger seat was the spare tire, jack and handle.  The shelves and flaps are still intact so he has them for duplication.

The headliner may be something that I can do.  We will see.

 

Hopefully, it won't be too long till the material comes in.  Are you doing any other items on the car while you are waiting for the fabric to arrive?

 

Randy 

 

 

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