1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[neil morse]

On 1/23/2018 at 12:53 PM, Gary W said:

 

 

Meanwhile at home, I finished making all my dedicated ground wires.  I made a total of 10.  One for each forward lamp (6), one for each tail lamp (3), Sending unit.

 

 

Gary, I understand the need for a separate ground wire for the gas tank sending unit, but can you explain about the necessity for ground wires to the lights?  Also, where are you attaching the ground wires to get a good ground?  The body?  The frame?  Thanks.

[Gary W]

Hi Neil

I had my front fender irons and all four bumper irons powder coated.  The powder coat tends to insulate and I didn't want to grind any of it off.  The instructions included with the new UVIRA coated reflectors for the headlamps said for best results to run a dedicated ground directly to the headlamp socket.  So I did.  The lamps look great.  When I installed the Trippe lamps, only one lit up.  So I touched a wrench from the light shell to the bumper (basically grounding it) and it lit up.   Just for fun, I did the same thing to the side that was lit, and it glowed BRIGHTER!  So I just made a decision to run a dedicated ground to each lamp.

I ran the ground wires to the fender mounting bolts.   (The sending unit ground is about 20 feet long and comes off the battery, clipped to the frame out of sight)

 

 

Driver's side Tail Lamp.  The short wire from the tail lamp mounting bolt over to the fender bolt.

Edited January 28, 2018 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Friday January 26, 2017:  Begin metal work on the Passenger's Side Door

 

I stopped by Bob's shop just at the right time Friday after work to watch him create and MIG weld in the lower door patch panels.  

As most of you know, the bottom of the doors are especially prone to rust, and I had three bad spots that required the metal cut out and patch panels made.

 

Here is the progress on the passenger's side:

 

 

After sandblasting.  Not much plastic in the doors, just a little by the lower hinge and the lower corner on the handle side.

 

 

But the lower edge had a few rust through areas.  The metal that was cut out is laying on top of the door skin.

 

 

Here's the rotted metal that was removed from the rear drain hole area.

 

 

The patch is welded in position.

 

 

There is the large area dead center that was left to do when I arrived.

 

 

Using the metal cut out as the template, a new piece of metal is cut out.

 

 

Then it is formed.  Flattened out after the snips which tend to curl it, then he uses a steel bar to give it a longitudinal curve to match the door profile.

 

 

Test fit a couple of times.

 

 

Then after grinding all the paint off, and cleaning the patch panel (and the opening in the door), it is held firm by the magnet and ready for the first tack weld.

 

 

Here's the machine.

 

 

First couple welds.

 

 

Little tweak to get the proper fit.

 

 

And then finish the first round of welds.  He will weld it all around the perimeter before it is ground smooth.

 

 

 

Have a great weekend!

Gary

[Randiego]

Gary, the hood and trunk look awesome. And the lights illuminate the rear and front with that 30's charm.   Bob's a BRAVE Man.   No hood.  No gloves.  I know it is just being tacked but he must have very tough skin seasoned with many hot sparks flying from the gun.  A seasoned pro.  

 

I have just finished rotator cuff surgery on my right shoulder.  My surgeon pioneered the arthroscopic surgery here in San Diego. He is a very seasoned pro. Something about grey hair that gives the patient confidence.  Guess that is why they call it a Medical Practice.  Always practicing. HE did not need to "fillet" me open.  Just two little incisions, removed a large bone spur that was cutting into the bursa (causing me so much pain) and suturing up the torn rotator cuff ligaments.  When I came to and the pain meds wore off.......NO PAIN.  This guy is good.  (Like Bob  and you). The anesthesiologist used a block and that let me recover  quickly.   Look I am typing (albeit with a sling on my arm) one day after surgery ! ! !   NO Hydrocodone needed.  Modern medicine is great.  His restoration work needs to be posted here.  :-)

 

Now, when the brace is off my arm, I will change the oil in my transmission.  Couldn't find anyone with the Texaco product that you use in your cars, and I do not need 5 gallons  so I will use the Sta Lube 140.  Should be ok.  We will see and I will let you know how it works out.  

 

If they built the Buicks back in the day, like you are building yours, they would not need to be restored.  They would last for a hell of a long time in great shape.  A testament to your work.

 

Randy 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Hi Gary,

an inspiration to us all in your methods and your attention to detail. I love the way you want to re-use as many of the original 1937 hardware and Fasteners by the simple clean and paint, rather than just buying new replacements, which never look the same.

 

Your charter to “do at least one thing everyday” is certainly on track and a great maxim to go by with any vehicle restoration.

 

Thank you for your posts, I will stop by here every now and then from the Riviera Owners forum.

cheers

Rodney from “down under” ?????

[neil morse]

14 hours ago, Gary W said:

Hi Neil

I had my front fender irons and all four bumper irons powder coated.  The powder coat tends to insulate and I didn't want to grind any of it off.  The instructions included with the new UVIRA coated reflectors for the headlamps said for best results to run a dedicated ground directly to the headlamp socket.  So I did.  The lamps look great.  When I installed the Trippe lamps, only one lit up.  So I touched a wrench from the light shell to the bumper (basically grounding it) and it lit up.   Just for fun, I did the same thing to the side that was lit, and it glowed BRIGHTER!  So I just made a decision to run a dedicated ground to each lamp.

I ran the ground wires to the fender mounting bolts.   (The sending unit ground is about 20 feet long and comes off the battery, clipped to the frame out of sight)

 

 

Thanks, Gary.

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 8:47 PM, Gary W said:

Saturday January 20, 2018:  Finalized wiring to the Trippe Lamps

 

Tonight I finished running the wires out to the fog lights.  I also ran a dedicated ground to each lamp and it makes a ton of difference in the lamp brightness.   

I think because the bumper support irons are powder coated, there isn't a great electrical ground.

 

 

 

 

Just looks so cool in the dark garage.

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

I don't know if you mentioned it or not, but are you using a conventional lead-acid battery or are you using one of the dry cell, OPTIMA batteries? A 6-volt system is all about current, or amps. And I think the OPTIMA dry cell battery has something like 40-50% more amperage than a 6-volt lead acid design.

[27donb]

35 minutes ago, 1967 - 1997 Riviera said:

 

I don't know if you mentioned it or not, but are you using a conventional lead-acid battery or are you using one of the dry cell, OPTIMA batteries? A 6-volt system is all about current, or amps. And I think the OPTIMA dry cell battery has something like 40-50% more amperage than a 6-volt lead acid design.

 

Just my opinion on the optima batteries... I was using them in 2 old cars, and after many years of good service they both died without warning.  They didn't crank slowly, or need to be charged often... They just left me with no power when I needed it most. 

 

I switched back to conventional batteries for that reason. 

 

[Gary W]

Wednesday Morning, January 31, 2018:  Door Update

 

 

The metal patch panels are welded in and fiber glass was used to make the contours.

 

 

The outer door skin bottom is now ready for all the sanding, self etch.........  So it is left alone for now and we flipped the door over.

 

 

Pulling out the door skin plastic clips.  You can see some of the nails still in the nail holes.  Those suckers really hold firm.

 

 

Removing all the door weatherstripping.

 

 

The wedge

 

 

Dead center of the door bottom:  the seam was in pretty rough shape.

 

 

Using a hammer and dolly,  Bob begins to reshape the area

 

 

The area begins to take on its original shape once again

 

 

After and ready for the self etch.

 

 

After stirring, stirring and stirring all the solids from the bottom, it is strained into the gun.

 

 

Two light coats

 

 

And he'll flip it over in about an hour to complete the body work on the outside of the door.

 

 

Gary
 

 

 

 

[avgwarhawk]

Been a while since popping in last.  She is looking fantastic.   Love the head lamps with the additional lights on the nose.   

[Gary W]

Wednesday Evening, January 31, 2018:  Wiring of the Heater / Defroster Unit

 

 

I didn't really know how the unit was wired originally so this is what I did today:

 

 

Flashback to last year.  I don't like all the accessory switches in sight right in the middle of the dash.

 

 

 

 

My first goal was to try to keep the under dash area as "clean"  as I can.  I didn't want all the accessory switches hanging down under the radio and glovebox.

So I wired the Heat and Lite switches down to the left of the steering column.

 

 

The "banjo" is hiding the slide switch that turns on either the cluster / clock lamps or the map reading lamp, but that other black switch over there is how I wired the heater / defroster.

 

 

Looking right at it now, I mounted a SPDT toggle switch into the factory hole that was already in the dash at that location.

 

 

So now, when I turn on the HEAT switch, it feeds the SPDT.  

 

 

When I push towards the windshield, it actuates the defroster motor.

 

 

When I pull it back towards the cabin, it turns on the heater blower motor.  Center is off.

The HEAT switch has a built in rheostat / transformer .....  that changes the speed of the heater motor.

 

 

 

 

 

B E FO R E   A N D    A F T E R :

 

January 2017:  Just before restoration began.

 

 

January 2018:  Huge improvement.  

I really like the way the radio fills in the center.

Those four wires hanging down are for rear speakers if I want to install them.  I need to tuck them away.

 

 

 

BEFORE

 

 

TODAY

 

 

 

Have a great night out there!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

[39BuickEight]

Much better!  Those little things make such a difference.  CLEAN!

[DonMicheletti]

As always, when I need some information on things I have a look at the old Torque Tube magazines.

The subject of heater and defroster switches is discussed on page 20 of this issue:

http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume XIX Issue 2 (November-December 2000).pdf

 

Note that Harry says the switches were mounted through a hole in the lower lip of the dash to the left of the steering column. Indeed, on both my cars there is a hole already there for these switches. While undoubtedly correct, they are not really convenient and the light is difficult to see.

 

I'll see if I can get a shot of my installation of these switches as described in the TT

[DonMicheletti]

Here are a couple of shots of my heater and foglight  switches. Sorry for the poor quality.

The fog lights and switch were on the Roadmaster when I got it in '85 as an unrestored car. It is just below the cigarette lighter

[Gary W]

Saturday morning, February 3, 2017:  Update at the Paint Shop..... Passenger Side Door

 

I stopped by the shop yesterday after work and again this morning.  The Passenger side door got it's base coat early this morning and is getting clear coat now.

 

This was Wednesday.  The self etch primer applied to both sides.

 

 

 

Friday after work.  Grey "build up" primer on.  The lower door panels look really great.

 

 

Another view of the grey primer sanded out.

 

 

6:15 this morning.  Base coat Super Jet Black

 

 

After setting up a bit, it's ready for clear coat.

 

 

Bob, wearing a respirator, rigged the door so he can get at the inside and outside in one session.

 

 

I was able to watch for a while as he gets in and out of all the curves.  Constantly changing angles as he sprays the clear.

 

 

Finishing up the inside of the door.

 

 

Now turning to the outer door skin, he slowly sprays the clear.

 

 

Finishing the first coat of clear.  I had to leave at this point.  Getting a headache.  I believe it gets another (or two?) coat of clear.

Then it will cure all weekend before getting wet sanded and machine buffed.  Bob is going to install the door seals for me.  I got a new kit from Steele.

 

 

As for me..... it was pulling the final set of ziplock bags out of the box labelled "door stuff" and of course.......

 

 

More hours at the wire wheel getting all the fasteners ready for paint and install.

 

I should be hanging the door Wednesday.  I think it'll be easier to hang the door on its hinges and build all the felt window channels, vent window, install the glass, door handles.... while its on the car.

 

 

Have a great weekend!

Gary

 

 

 

[DonMicheletti]

I agree on guts assembly after the door is hung. It is heavy enough gutted.

I made the error of thinking I could install the weatherstrip after the door is hung. Impossible - I had the remove the door to install it.

[dibarlaw]

Don:

On my 37-41 it has clips ( a lot of them) that snap in for me it was a very easy job.

[Gary W]

Super Bowl Sunday February 4, 2018:  Door handles, Door Locks and Hinge pins

 

Seems like pretty mundane stuff, but it took me a while to get these parts ready for installation

 

 

 

 

 

Hinge Pins:

 

Is it crazy to constantly mark every part so it goes back into the same spot?  Sometimes I think I need to get some professional help!

Hinge pins are probably universal, but I have this ridiculous fear that after 80 years, they have worn into a sweet spot and I didn't want to disturb it.

 

 

So I made "hash marks" on the underside so they go back where I got them from.  

 

 

I really boogered up this one trying to get it out.   It was stuck and I needed a hammer, punch... 

So, before I hit the wire wheel,  I got my Dremel out to start reshaping the head

 

 

And shaped the taper back on to the bottom of the pin.  I mushroomed it pretty bad when I knocked it out.

 

 

Everything cleaned up on the wire wheel prior to priming and painting the heads gloss black.

 

 

After removing all the old paint and rust, there was a little more work to do reshaping the head and creating a nice contour before paint.

 

 

 

Door Handles and Lock:

 

 

This is how the morning started.  Even after the chrome shop got done, the shafts were still very rusty.

The small screws in the middle are to secure the door sills.

 

 

Here's the after photo.  This is the result of the wire wheel.  

 

 

In this photo, you can see the "before and after" but I also noticed that the rust was also INSIDE the lock chamber.

 

 

So, before I assembled the lock, I sprayed some WD-40 down the shaft and what a mess came out!

I took my time with a long, thin screwdriver and by scraping the inner walls it finally ran clean.

 

 

Amazing how much rust and debris came out of there.

 

 

Here's the Service Manual depiction of the internal lock.  My internal mechanism is all together, not apart like the picture above.

 

 

 

The internal shaft is one piece.  Here I lined it up so I knew how far the lock cylinder went into the hole in the handle to line up the pin.

I sent the handles out for chrome, and the chrome shop disassembled everything.  This is all I got back from them.

 

 

So I slid the lock mechanism into the hole in the handle

 

 

Tapped a galvanized finishing nail through the holes to secure it into position

 

 

Used the dremel once more to smooth out the protruding ends.

 

 

Key in

 

 

Key turns easily and the internal tumbler turns so I think I'm OK.

 

Actually, I'll never lock that door anyway so.......

 

 

Enjoy the game!

Gary

 

Edited February 5, 2018 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Randiego]

Gary,

 

Quit  "beating" yourself up for your penchant for detail.  Labeling and bagging the parts so that they go back in just as they came out will give you the fit and finish that MIGHT be there if you switch the parts around.  The fact that your car is back in one piece (almost), looks fantastic and runs is testament to your standards.  How many times that an individual has taken something apart, bags it and  a year later are scratching their heads.   Not only does the composed individual label, catalog and mark the part (up down, left or right) but also adds photos for complete documentation.   This prevents the puzzle from having missing pieces or worst yet............"Now how the HELL did this part fit in here????"   Add to that a time lapse of a year (or so) and then the picture really gets fuzzy.

 

At a younger age, with a lot of energy and little patience, did I take something apart  only to find out the hard way about  1.  photo documentation  2. marking the part(s) and marking the bag  3. and where applicable, re assembly in reverse order of the disassembly.  You have that in spades plus one;   You are neat and keep your work area(s) clean and orderly.  That says volumes about you Gary. 

 

After logging onto your thread, I bet a lot of followers have gone out to their garages and work areas, looked in dismay at their project and have started cleaning up their messes and putting things away.  I know I have.   I am striving to keep my work areas clean and free of the clutter that so plagues a lot of us.

 

SO NO, you do not need a mental examination.  Being neat and orderly is an asset.  We should all be so organized and methodical in our pursuit in our restoration projects.  You are "leading by example" and your kids are getting the best lessons in life from your work ethic and methods. 

 

Randy 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

[Bloo]

47 minutes ago, Randiego said:

Labeling and bagging the parts so that they go back in just as they came out will give you the fit and finish that MIGHT be there if you switch the parts around. 

 

Exactly this. Also, sometimes differences in parts aren't obvious. It really makes the difference between knowing how something goes together, and screwing around for hours trying to figure it out.

[Thriller]

It's much better to be hyper detail oriented than the alternatives of missing parts, "where does this go" questions, and similar issues. 

 

[kwheel21]

On 1/31/2018 at 5:36 PM, Gary W said:

Wednesday Evening, January 31, 2018:  Wiring of the Heater / Defroster Unit

 

 

I didn't really know how the unit was wired originally so this is what I did today:

 

 

Flashback to last year.  I don't like all the accessory switches in sight right in the middle of the dash.

 

 

 

 

My first goal was to try to keep the under dash area as "clean"  as I can.  I didn't want all the accessory switches hanging down under the radio and glovebox.

So I wired the Heat and Lite switches down to the left of the steering column.

 

 

The "banjo" is hiding the slide switch that turns on either the cluster / clock lamps or the map reading lamp, but that other black switch over there is how I wired the heater / defroster.

 

 

Looking right at it now, I mounted a SPDT toggle switch into the factory hole that was already in the dash at that location.

 

 

So now, when I turn on the HEAT switch, it feeds the SPDT.  

 

 

When I push towards the windshield, it actuates the defroster motor.

 

 

When I pull it back towards the cabin, it turns on the heater blower motor.  Center is off.

The HEAT switch has a built in rheostat / transformer .....  that changes the speed of the heater motor.

 

 

 

 

 

B E FO R E   A N D    A F T E R :

 

January 2017:  Just before restoration began.

 

 

January 2018:  Huge improvement.  

I really like the way the radio fills in the center.

Those four wires hanging down are for rear speakers if I want to install them.  I need to tuck them away.

 

 

 

BEFORE

 

 

TODAY

 

 

 

Have a great night out there!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

[Gary W]

Wednesday February 7, 2018:  Installation of the Passenger Side Door

 

Bob finished the passenger side door about noon today.  I had a long "honey-do" list to accomplish, so after dinner, my "crew" helped me lift and install the door.

I didn't  install any of the door goodies yet,  just got it hung on the hinges and closed tight.

 

 

Here's the latest from the last few days:

 

 

I finished wire-wheeling and painting the door sill screws.  I painted them the same color as the sill.  (Aluminum... just like the hood vents)

 

 

I finished the hinge pins.

 

 

On the body, I ran a fine round file through the hinges, as the pins would not go through.  After all the body work and paint, stuff gets in there.

Then I cut strips of scotch brite pads and "flossed" out the debris and smoothed out the interior walls.

 

 

Satisfied the pins go through easily, I set them aside and ran down to the paint shop to pick up the finished door.

 

 

This was Monday, Feb 5.  Bob was wet sanding the cured clear coat in preparation for the machine compound.

 

 

Installed the door wedge.

 

 

And this morning he installed the weatherstrip around the perimeter of the door and the bottom.

 

 

Ready for the drive back home.  Bob said "It shines like a mirror!"     So I bought it home and ..........

 

 

Got a photo of the car......   REFLECTING off the door!     I guess he's right!!

 

 

Back it up a little.  The man does beautiful work!

 

 

I had a screwdriver in the upper hinge and a thin "T - Handled" allen wrench in the bottom hinge to use as punches to help align the door.

 

 

Enter the crew.

 Kyle held the door up, I was pushing the hinges into position and Matt stood guard to drop the screwdriver in the hinge.

 

 

Top in, then down to the bottom hinge which gave us a fit.  The pin made it through the upper hole, the main body of the hinge but would not go through the lower hole.

 

 

We ended up running a third hinge pin up from the bottom until it started lifting the upper pin.

Then, driving the upper pin back down, it simply followed the alignment pin and it found its way.

These two are great helpers!

 

 

So, it closes nice and tight.  Especially with the new seals around the door.  

 

 

The gaps all look nice around the entire perimeter and nothing is rubbing or scraping anywhere.

 

 

Tomorrow I'll start with the vent separator, the window felt channel, all the inner door goodies, the glass, the outside handle, the trim piece......

But it's on and looking good!

 

 

Thanks everyone for following along!

Have a great night!

Gary

[pont35cpe]

Gary, in the past when I`ve installed the hinge pins I always had the bad luck of chipping the paint off the top of the pins when installing, so this time, for my car, I bought stainless steel pins from chevys of the 40s. My original pins were worn pretty bad and would have had to be replaced anyways.. I agree your paint does look like a black mirror..  Tom

[Bloo]

How did you get the pins out originally? Did you have a special tool?

[Gary W]

I tapped the pins out from the bottom.  One really got messed up.  The top is knurled and it really holds tight.  

I used a rubber mallet to install

 I did remove paint  from the mating surfaces of the hinge.  The fit is so tight that even a little paint prevented the door from seating fully.

[39BuickEight]

Every time we reinstalling a bolt into a painted part, the phrase is uttered......"lotta paint" 

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

15 hours ago, Gary W said:

Wednesday February 7, 2018:  Installation of the Passenger Side Door

 

Bob finished the passenger side door about noon today.  I had a long "honey-do" list to accomplish, so after dinner, my "crew" helped me lift and install the door.

I didn't  install any of the door goodies yet,  just got it hung on the hinges and closed tight.

 

 

Here's the latest from the last few days:

 

 

I finished wire-wheeling and painting the door sill screws.  I painted them the same color as the sill.  (Aluminum... just like the hood vents)

 

 

I finished the hinge pins.

 

 

On the body, I ran a fine round file through the hinges, as the pins would not go through.  After all the body work and paint, stuff gets in there.

Then I cut strips of scotch brite pads and "flossed" out the debris and smoothed out the interior walls.

 

 

Satisfied the pins go through easily, I set them aside and ran down to the paint shop to pick up the finished door.

 

 

This was Monday, Feb 5.  Bob was wet sanding the cured clear coat in preparation for the machine compound.

 

 

Installed the door wedge.

 

 

And this morning he installed the weatherstrip around the perimeter of the door and the bottom.

 

 

Ready for the drive back home.  Bob said "It shines like a mirror!"     So I bought it home and ..........

 

 

Got a photo of the car......   REFLECTING off the door!     I guess he's right!!

 

 

Back it up a little.  The man does beautiful work!

 

 

I had a screwdriver in the upper hinge and a thin "T - Handled" allen wrench in the bottom hinge to use as punches to help align the door.

 

 

Enter the crew.

 Kyle held the door up, I was pushing the hinges into position and Matt stood guard to drop the screwdriver in the hinge.

 

 

Top in, then down to the bottom hinge which gave us a fit.  The pin made it through the upper hole, the main body of the hinge but would not go through the lower hole.

 

 

We ended up running a third hinge pin up from the bottom until it started lifting the upper pin.

Then, driving the upper pin back down, it simply followed the alignment pin and it found its way.

These two are great helpers!

 

 

So, it closes nice and tight.  Especially with the new seals around the door.  

 

 

The gaps all look nice around the entire perimeter and nothing is rubbing or scraping anywhere.

 

 

Tomorrow I'll start with the vent separator, the window felt channel, all the inner door goodies, the glass, the outside handle, the trim piece......

But it's on and looking good!

 

 

Thanks everyone for following along!

Have a great night!

Gary

 

I really enjoy seeing pictures of your "crew" helping you with things like this, properly hanging the door. But I'm curious as to who is taking the pictures?

[Gary W]

My camera has a feature called "Interval Timer Shooting"  So when I am doing things that require "all hands on deck", I can set up the camera and every  30 seconds it snaps a shot.

When I set the hood, I actually had my iPhone taking video, then I take screenshots of the important parts.

 

[38Buick 80C]

Before you do the driver side don't forget the side mirror if you are doing hinge pin mounted one...

[Gary W]

Sunday February 11, 2018:  Begin installing "Door Goodies" on the passenger's side

 

(13 months today!)

 

The last few days I've been busy getting the internal guts of the passenger's door installed.

 

 

First was the drip shield

 

 

I used all the original screws, doing my wire wheel job on all the door fasteners.

 

 

Then I installed the door check rod with the new rubber stopper from Steele.  I adjusted it so it stops the door just before the door hinges hit to stop the door.

 

 

Window run channel coming out a year ago.

 

 

Everything restored and going back in tonight!  I kept the screws loose until I actually drop the glass in there and allow the glass to align everything.

 

 

 

 

****  NOTE:    Post # 517  on PAGE 21  (9/8/2017) Details the restoration of the Window Run Channel in the door and the Vertical Division Channel (Vent Window Separator)  ****

 

Back to business...

 

Next, the vent window assembly.  Here it is coming out last year.

 

 

Fully assembled and going right back into position.  

 

 

Then the vent division post.

 I quickly realized that these screws had to be cut down, and then the rubber vent window rubber had to be trimmed back to allow it to seat correctly.

So this part and the vent assembly were in and out and in and out quite a few times before it was right.  I wanted to be sure this section was just right before starting the window felt channel.

 

 

Here it is installed and nice and snug to the vent window.

 

 

The view from outside.

 

 

Then I started on the window:

 

First I removed the lower carrier from the original glass.  It popped right off.  Notice I marked the position before I knocked it off.

 

 

I transferred the markings to the new glass.  Then out to the shed to wire wheel these parts before installation.

I'm waiting for the rubber seat where the glass sits in, then goes in this carrier.

 

 

So the next job was the window felt channel.  This is how it gets delivered, so I first used my dremel to make a nice clean cut.

 

 

Like the rear window, I used the actual glass to carefully form the felt channel.

Pushing against the cabinets to keep the top secure, I slowly started making the bend.  Go easy.  It needs time for the stainless to slide out.

 

 

Just taking it little by little, it will nicely form around the glass.

 

 

I left a 1/4" at the forward top so I could custom trim it to the vent division upright.

 

 

Over to the door for the first trial.  A dry run to measure the overlap at the vent division and make that cut.

 

 

After measuring and making the cut, it fits pretty nice up against the vent divider post.

 

 

Satisfied with the fit up there, I began marking for the holes to screw the felt channel in place.

 

 

I used my same technique as the rear roll up windows.  First, I lay the blue tape near the holes and mark the hole position up around to the door opening.

 

 

Fit the felt channel in the window opening (again) and I use a silver sharpie to make a mark on the side of the felt corresponding to the lines on the tape.

 

 

I use a 1/4" piece of wood in the vice and up into the felt and drill my holes according to the silver marks.

 

 

When its black on black on black and you are looking up into the lights, believed me these marks come in very handy.

The screws find their way easily into the holes and the felt channel falls right into place.

 

 

So the felt channel is in and I'm satisfied with the fit.

I'm waiting for the rubber lower window channel (the one the glass fits into inside the window riser) before I can drop the glass in place.

 

 

I decided to buff up the side trim moldings.  My passenger side was held on the car by "hot glue" or some kind of silicone pumped in through the cowl side.

 

 

My door moldings had at least half the clips broken.  These also had paint down the sides and rust inside.

 

 

Here's the pile of rusty clips I removed from the door stainless molding strips.

 

 

I first used a non-scratch Scotch-Brite pad with this Quick-Glo to remove the rust, paint and begin prepping the surface.

 

 

Next onto the cotton wheel for a buffing with jeweler's rouge.

 

 

So much better!

 

 

I did restore the clips that were usable.  I ended up ordering 24 new clips for the door moldings, so I only used four of these on the cowl section.

 

 

And Paul's Chrome shop returned the visor support for the passenger side.  So I installed that as well.

 

 

Hopefully I'll have the door completely ready for interior panels by Wednesday if all the parts come in this week.

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2018 by Gary W (see edit history)

[chistech]

I’m super happy because I got to try Gary’s “many hands on deck “technique this past Saturday. I went to the body shop to help the owner install a 68’ Camaro convertible roof and we couldn’t finish it because the tack strips were too deteriorated. So I said because we had time, how we could get my 32’ Olds parts he had at his shop, prepped and painted. He said sure and set up a couple tables. I started sanding with 600 my radiator shutters while he sanded and glazed my dash and other parts. His brother in law walked in the door and asked what we we’re doing. When I said “sanding a bunch of stuff” he said to give him some paper and he jumped in. My tail light buckets, stanchions, license plate brackets, top bow insert, dash, and trunk rack got all prepped, some got urethane primed while others got sealed. What a huge difference with 6 knowledgeable hands over 2 how quickly things can get done. So I told them I’d treat for the Red Bull and Jagermeister this coming weekend for the wheel prepping party at the paint shop! They’re both younger and drink that stuff but it’s cheap enticement if it works. I really need to get my wheels painted! I like the many hands method.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Red Bull and Jaegermeister? Uuuggghhhh!!!  Now if it was me I would be happy with a nice bottle of Macallan or Lagavulin...

 

Cheers, Dave

[Randiego]

Gary,

 

AH HAAAAA  ! ! !

 

 

Now we know one of the reasons that your shop stays so clean.  You do all of the buffing and grungy work out in.................................THE SHED ! 

 

Now that explains why your garage is so clean.  Anyone using a buffing wheel to clean the rust and grunge off of a part will know how much crap and residue ends up on the floor or on the wall (if you don't have a shielded wire wheel).  

When I buff off corroded parts (if I don't put them in the blast cabinet), I move my wire wheel out onto the drive way to keep that junk out of my shop. Flinging the residue will be where it is easy to clean up instead of behind the benches, wall racks, etc.. etc.

 

It is nice to see your "step by step" methods of your restoration.  This could be a book on how to do a restoration........CORRECTLY ! ! 

 

One thing that is coming to your aid.....fairer weather!  Just a short time from now, it won't be cold any longer and that will really give a boost to the restoration time as it won't be so cold for working in the garage or when you need to do something outside on the drive.  Time moves fast when you are busy.

  

Awaiting your next post.

 

Randy

[Randiego]

Oh,

 

And the millennials imbibe a much different "concoction" that we did in our day.   A case of beer or a bottle of Jack usually got the necessary help to give a hand when it was needed.

 

Today, these youngsters imbibe all sorts of.........................spirits.  The oddest guy I knew in my day (back in the 70's) , who incidentally had the most beautiful car collection (in St. Louis) starting with his fathers 32 Pierce 2dr Roadster,  the family Cadillac limousine,   His IMPECCABLE 57 Tbird (100 point car that he restored himself) for a few,  drank Cutty and.......milk!  He said that the milk kept his stomach from being upset.   What ever works.

 

These days my drink of choice is coffee and cold bottled water with a Johnny Walker (Black Label) over ice... on occasion. 

 

Southern California has the worst water in the US. Alkaline and cruddy tasting.  Hence we started the bottled water craze that is world wide now.  In your area, Gary, we are told that the Catskills provide NY and surrounding areas with the best water in the world.........right out of the tap.  Luck you. 

 

Randy

[jeff]

On your side windows, what did you use for lower seals?

 

I have a '38 Special, same 2-door body style.  On mine, I finally concluded that a lip seal was used on the bottom channel of the window.  It is a u-shaped rubber piece (that holds the glass into the metal channel) with a lip that is supposed to seal on the edge of the door.  At least I think that is what was used originally.

 

After installation, I can only say that its ability to seal against the door is weak at best.  Plus, since it is below the edge of the door, any rain comes in regardless.  (that's what the drain holes are for!)

 

Any wisdom on this?  And, when (and where) do we get to see this beautiful car?  Great job!

 

Jeff

[DonMicheletti]

I have a '38 Special. There was no "flap' at the bottom of the roll up windows for a seal. It appeared there was no real attempt to keep water out. All there was was the "fuzzy" strip at the bottom of the window opening.

[jeff]

Yeah, I tend to agree with you Don.  I went with the lip seal version because that is what one of the parts catalogs listed as correct for the '38.  That doesn't necessarily mean they are correct of course!

 

It doesn't do much for rain, but it may help to minimize drafts.  Maybe.

[pont35cpe]

I may be wrong, but I don`t think `37-`38 had sweeps on the door or garnish originally. I sent Gary some pics of how I did the sweeps on my `36, page 27 post 670.

[Gary W]

I've been trying to get as much information as I can regarding the window seals.  I do not believe the car came with window sweeps originally.  There are no holes anywhere to attach them.  I removed the "lip seal" version from the window carrier (all dry rotted, of course) and I think there are supposed to be rubber window anti-rattlers that fit into the holes in the door and garnish moldings.  I actually did bend the window sweeps, but I have no idea  (except 3M trim adhesive) how I can attach them as access is quite limited to get in there with a drill and small screws.....  Jury is still out, but I'll be trying the lip seal tonight and see if I like it.  I don't know about the '38's  (I don't even know about the '37's!!) but Bob at the paint shop told me that the window sweeps came into production much later than 1937.  (Like in the 50's)  I'll try a couple ways and update as I learn!!