WD 40 Specialty sprays?

[Laughing Coyote]

I was on Amazon looking at WD40 in the gallon can since I use it a lot and noticed that they offer numerous "specialty" sprays. Even one designed for rusted bolts and stuff.  Don't know if this is something new or if they have had these products out for awhile.  Has anyone tried them?  Do they work?  

 

Or......maybe I just have been living under a rock. 

 

[Sasha39]

Make your own, cheaper and better.
Vegetable oil with 10% acetone performs as well as WD-40 to free seized bolts. And it costs about one- tenth of the price.
You can add more acetone or less acetone depending for what you want the mixture to do, more acetone if your trying to free up rusty nuts and bolts, don't forget that WD40 stands for Water Displacement 40th attempt to get the formula right.

[Curti]

There was a scientific independent study done.  ATF & acetone.

 

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil         Average load
None                        516 pounds
WD-40                      238 pounds
PB Blaster               214 pounds
Liquid Wrench        127 pounds
Kano Kroil               106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix     53 pounds


The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix.

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

Edited January 9, 2017 by Curti
update (see edit history)

[R Walling]

 I have read that used ATF is the best for the mixture.

 

 Is there any truth to this?

[Mark Shaw]

Based on my experience, the 50/50 mix works better than anything I have tried.  Just about any thin oil will work with acetone as a very thin solvent carrier that evaporates quickly to leave the oil behind.  Heating rusted nuts and bolts also works, and it works even better with the application of candle wax.  The heat expands the parts and the wax becomes a thin liquid lube that can penetrate the spaces within the rusted parts.

 

[Curti]

Based on my experience, the 50/50 mix works better than anything I have tried.  Just about any thin oil will work with acetone as a very thin solvent carrier that evaporates quickly to leave the oil behind.  Heating rusted nuts and bolts also works, and it works even better with the application of candle wax.  The heat expands the parts and the wax becomes a thin liquid lube that can penetrate the spaces within the rusted parts.

 

I agree, agree,agree.  And if possible, heat the part up red hot and drop it in water or  put a ice cube on it. you will be able to remove it with your fingers. Do I need to mention Safety First !

[Douglas G. Brown]

Thanks for the info on the ATF/acetone  home brew! I'll whip up a batch and baptize some bolts on my 1937 Dodge. If you have spare (either new or  used) ATF on hand, brushing it on leather work boots keeps them from drying out and cracking. I suspect those red colored boot oils sold in small containers for big bucks are actually ATF.

Edited January 11, 2017 by Douglas G. Brown (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

On really rusty cars I have found that box store penetrating sprays can get the hood and door hinges working freely enough to satisfy a potential buyer.

 

I do a lot of driving and sometimes I see a car in a field that catches my eye. I pull over at the first chance, close my eyes, and click my heels together saying "My next car is not sitting outside somewhere. My next car is not sitting outside somewhere." That REALLY helps with rusted bolts.

 

Oh, I should admit that a $125 package from Kroil is almost like Christmas. That gets a wide range of products and lasts a few years around here. Sometimes the value is in the ritual.

Bernie

Edited January 11, 2017 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[1937hd45]

Once you use Kroil all others are pure crap. Bob

Edited January 11, 2017 by 1937hd45 (see edit history)

[Pomeroy41144]

How does one apply the wax? 

Melt it first?  Heat up the piece or hardware first then pour on wax? 

How about studs in block? how do you get the wax on the threads of a stud in a block? 

 

 

 

And I thought that WD40 was a water dispersant and not a penetrating oil.  What am I missing? 

[Guest]

You apply the wax just like you would solder a copper pipe.

I always thought WD40 was a penetrating oil but NOT a lubricant.  After trying ATF/acetone I don't think WD40 is a penetrant either.  So maybe the label is correct "water dispersant".

[Pomeroy41144]

Thanks for the info. 

[Douglas G. Brown]

I read an article once about the origin of WD 40. WD meant "Water Displacement" . The 40th formula that they tried out was the one accepted, hence the name WD 40. (as Sasha39 said in comment #2)

This suggests that WD 40 displaces water, which would prevent rust from forming ....  which is not the same as penetrating rust. What is that legal maxim that goes "Penetration, no matter how slight ... ?

 

 I bought (at a yard sale) a can of something called "Tasgon" which looked like it was from the 1940's, and it worked well: but I used it up long ago. I'll try the ATF concoction out.

 

Ideally, the carrying solvent should be miscible with water, to actually "wet" the rust. This should favor acetone as the carrying solvent (it is miscible with water) over lacquer thinner, which is not. I think acetone is also cheaper.

Edited January 11, 2017 by Douglas G. Brown (see edit history)

[Jim Bollman]

Many stories on how WD-40 over time goes from being a lubricant to a gumming agent. I use to buy WD-40 by the gallon and the final straw for me was when I was refilling a pump oil cans with WD-40 from my gallon can and this slimy snot like liquid came out of the can. I was towards the end of the gallon and I had it on the shelf for a few years but decided then not to ever use it again.

[Harold]

I recall reading that WD-40 has a fish-oil base.  Easy to imagine it would decay over time.

[skyler]

I use Gibbs. must be mail ordered.great product, many uses. leaves no film or residue.  skyler

[Spinneyhill]

It is my understanding that WD-40 is a wax in a volatile carrier. So it displaces water and perhaps when the volatiles have evaporated, a thin coat of wax is left that may be useful at keeping corrosion at bay for a short while, if it is thick enough and extensive enough.