Jump to content

Meet "Toby" my 50 Model 51 project


Elpad

Recommended Posts

One more molding done, few more to go. This is a before and after picture, notice the ding between the holes. Is really not difficult to repair but time consuming.

61E6ADD2-3AF9-41D6-A125-88B1820B3298.jpeg

EA6AC2D4-62B5-444F-A18E-8822A95812CB.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

Going to clear coat?

10-4 already done. The painter told me that the way the paint job came out it won’t even need polishing to the contrary of what he was taught during trade school training long time ago. He told me it was my decision. I let you know when I physically see the car.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Elpad said:

10-4 already done. The painter told me that the way the paint job came out it won’t even need polishing to the contrary of what he was taught during trade school training long time ago. He told me it was my decision. I let you know when I physically see the car.

 

Dont polish unless absolutely necessary. These cars were never perfect to begin with and swirl marks are a PIA!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Dont polish unless absolutely necessary. These cars were never perfect to begin with and swirl marks are a PIA!

 

I use Meguires 101 and 102 with 6 inch orbital polisher.  No swirling in my no clear coat black paint.  Black paint can and does show a lot, but when it's right...look out. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

You're gonna have to keep the lights off in the garage! 

Will be turning wrenches to the right soon, let you know if I have to wear the sunglasses 🕶 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't put it together until it has gone through a few hot-cold cycles to see if the paint develops a texture or settles into some sanding scratches.  It is easier to cut and buff without trim in the way.  Don't do a test spot unless prepared to do the whole car because it will be better.  Count on 30+ hours...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Don't put it together until it has gone through a few hot-cold cycles to see if the paint develops a texture or settles into some sanding scratches.  It is easier to cut and buff without trim in the way.  Don't do a test spot unless prepared to do the whole car because it will be better.  Count on 30+ hours...

Not in a hurry will let it sit for few days, the longer the better it cures

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So soon I will have to purchase a windshield for the car. I found clear, green tinted and shaded, whatever that means. I tend to think is a darker tint on top of the windscreen. So which do you think is the correct replacement? I’m thinking clear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's your car Elpad so any decision is a good one.

Since you asked, being in Florida and a black car, i'd lean towards the dark tint to cut down on UV and heat build up. It very likely was clear from the factory so if that is what your desire is (originality) that is a good decision.

Looks really nice sir!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here we go again!!! Knew this was going to happen. I got 3 choices and 3 different opinions just like my white wall tires. Seems to me I’m building a virtual car here, ha, ha...just trying to keep as an original look as possible. I broke the original upon removal and discarded long ago, don’t remember but I think it was clear. I will tell you this, clear is the cheapest one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...