Pete in PA

My official 1936 D2 sedan resurrection thread

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My column jacket has the small hole about 7-8 in. above the jacket clamp.There is a spring type cover that goes over it. It looks to be in the same location of the hole that is said to be for radio grounding. No breakdown drawings in any of my books show any holes in the jacket save the oil hole just above the jacket clamp. There is no lower oil hole in my jacket located just above the jacket clamp as shown in the breakdown drawings or in any of the other jackets I have. My parts book does list a steering column ground screw but again it doesn't appear in any drawings.I would have thought that the column grounded through the frame mounts , but why would it need grounded in the first place? I did notice, just now, in going over the drawing and parts ID in my March '36 parts book, that the drawing must be of an earlier unit and many of the numbered parts do not match their parts name. In fact, to me, it doesn't even resemble the '34 or '35 drawings in my maintenance book! Go figure!

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Let me go into the full radio screw story. My friend Greg, who had a photographic memory, was a lifelong 1936 Dodge man. He came home from the hospital in a 1936 Dodge. He crossed the USA collecting parts. He knew ever single bolt on the car by thread pitch, length,etc. He knew part numbers, by heart. He found and bought an unrestored 36 roadster. As he got older, he got Lupus, which slowed him down, and eventually claimed his life. He sold the roadster to a neighbor who restored it immediately ( body shop owner). When he spoke on anything 36 Dodge, it wasn’t a guess, HE KNEW EVERYTHING! 

When I joined the local Chrysler club, he contacted me and we met. I was at his house, told him my car was complete, save for one bumper bolt cover. He open a drawer in a cabinet and tossed one to me. He was my personal 36 Dodge Jesus. I miss him every day. 

When you need to know everything about your car and meet someone like this,   

its incredible. He came over an saw my car. He told me my car was a factory radio car because of the hole 4 inches down the column on the top of the column was where  the radio ground screw connected. I need to close now and go blow my nose. 

Steve.

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Posted (edited)

Steve, I too wish I could speak with Greg.  He could save me a lot of aggravation.  He sounds like he was a real treasure.

My aggravation at the moment is finding a fuel tank.  All I see online are poly fuel tanks.  No thanks.  MAke mine steel, please.  It seems like you can buy a new steel tank for many, many Dodge cars of that time period but not for a 36.  I wonder why.

I had momentary hope when I saw that Andy Bernbaum's website said We have many used and NOS tanks for years and models listed above.  Call us!"  So I did.  And they don't have any for my 36.  

 

As for getting one made locally, I have no idea where to start.  I've lived in this area for 21 years and I can't recall ever seeing a sheet metal fabrication shop .  I guess I need to do a web search.

If anyone manages to find a steel tank for a D2 please let me know.  Mine is junk. It's so badly rusted inside that the anti-slosh baffle has broken loose and bashes around inside the tank when I tilt it.

Edited by Pete in PA (see edit history)

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If it still holds fuel you have a better that most tank . Show some pics of . Mine was rotted through top and baffles and pic up tube loose . I cut top out for rectangle patch to cover all holes . Scrapped and de-rusted insides . Then took to local shop ,had loose parts fixed and top welded on . They even solder near end where there over heating damaged . I opted for no coating . Instead use non-ethanol fuel with Marine grade Stabile with Vapor technology . No rust in last two years .

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Posted (edited)

Several pics of my tank on page 5 of this thread.

I guess it still holds fuel because it had about 3 gallons of foul smelling "used to be gasoline" in it until a few weeks ago.  Wow does that stuff smell bad!  What would happen if I put in 10 or 12 gallons I can't say.  But I can see severe rusting inside and I can hear the baffle thumping around when I rotate the tank.  And then there's the fact that the bottom is bashed in from some unknown event decades ago.

I suppose I could cut a sizeable portion of the top away, hammer out the bottom and scrape the inside surfaces through that opening, and somehow close up the top again.  Maybe with a new, larger piece of metal riveted and soldered to seal it.  

I guess I got spoiled when I saw the beautiful new tank that jpage had made for his D2 and you can see that on page 2 of this thread.

I did a web search for metal fabricators and found a shop in Philly.  I emailed them my request and attached a few pics of my tank.  I don't expect to hear anything from them until Monday at the earliest.

Edited by Pete in PA (see edit history)

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I know what you mean this is mine being scraped out hole in top . I then used electrolyze  on it follow by Evapo-rust chemical . I think PO tried to coat inside .

20160511_080631.thumb.jpg.ecafc808c478f2cfff222cc07ee17e95.jpg

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12 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Telephone would be a lot quicker!

True, but 1) I discovered that they exist on a Saturday when they are closed and 2) using email means that I could send pictures of my old tank along with my request.  It'll be interesting to hear what they say, hopefully this coming week.  Junior is back from camp and we want to move forward on the D2.

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11 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:

I know what you mean this is mine being scraped out hole in top . I then used electrolyze  on it follow by Evapo-rust chemical . I think PO tried to coat inside .

20160511_080631.thumb.jpg.ecafc808c478f2cfff222cc07ee17e95.jpg

Wow, that's gruesome!  I'm surprised to see how clean and smooth the metal is.  I don't see any rust or perforations at all!  But that crap that you scraped off looks a lot like the stuff I scrape out of the chimney liner when I do my annual woodstove cleaning.

I know I've recently mentioned cutting a large opening in the top of the tank but it occurred to me last night that it might be better to cut out the damaged area on the *bottom* of the tank.  This could work at least as a temporary measure to get me going until I find a good used tank or someone to make  a new one.

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You are seeing bottom , the top had numerous rust throughs . And the tank had it first Evapo -Rust treatment already . Here is cleaning pic .

2050161951_tankcleaning2.thumb.jpg.c6e9df5e86d1eac1dafec9da4bd1b851.jpg

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There's a place called Tanks Inc. that lists a poly tank for '35-'36 Mopars for $250. If push came to shove that might be something to consider.

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I've seen 5 or 6 different places offer the polyethylene tank.  What's weird is that for years before and after 1936 there are steel tanks available.  I wonder why the 36 gets special treatment.  I don't want to go the poly tank route, at least not yet.  I'll try repairing my old tank before going poly.

Coming up on 2 weeks elapsed since I ordered my exhaust system from Roberts..  Gary said 2-5 weeks estimated to delivery.  I can dream, right?

I think I'll head to the Dodge Garage before teh thunderstorms roll in.  I'll pull the carburetor and take it apart to see what's what in there.  Hopefully it's just varnish and no corroded/holed float.

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Sheet metal shop called me. They *might* be able to make a tank for me. Guy sounded very hesitant. I’m not optimistic. Son and I will take the old tank to them tomorrow for a personal inspection.

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Pete, I’m hesitant for you using this guy. My favorite old saying, “ Anybody will take your money “. I didn’t go for the Pebble Beach job on my car and I had the same stump jumper job on my tank and I went with the poly tank and forgot about it. It’s your car so good luck going steel. But I gotta tell you, the poly tank is such a good fit, I even used the original mounting straps.

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I agree with Steve9, if the guy isn't confident stay away! The poly tank will probably do the job and you really can't see it unless you're under the car. Besides, the price looks good. If you don't like it, you could always send it back.

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Our visit to the metal fabrication shop was interesting.  Anytime you drive through the area north of Girard Avenue in north Philly you're going to see stuff that gets your attention.  Fortunately no bullets were flying this morning.  Later today?  Who knows...

The shop was in no way equipped to make a fuel tank.  Their main job is doing HVAC ductwork.  The tank was greeted with oohs and aahs of admiration for the seam joining and crimping and soldering.  It was obvious after 2 minutes that these guys would no be able to help me.

Steve I'm glad to hear that the poly tank fits well.  That was a major concern of mine.  I'll  reconsider it.  If nothing else I can try one and use it temporarily.

Meanwhile the 3 week mark approaches and I'm jonesing for my exhaust system.

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1 hour ago, Pete in PA said:

 Anytime you drive through the area north of Girard Avenue in north Philly you're going to see stuff that gets your attention.  Fortunately no bullets were flying this morning.  Later today?  Who knows....

 

Was born on North Broad St in the mid-60's....so glad I got out of there!

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My cousin's son recently moved into inner city Philly. One day he went to his bank...during a  Brinks truck robbery! I don't think I'd like to live in any city today! I got the creeps just walking down the street last time I was in Philly!  Hope you get your pipes soon, today one never knows if they will ever receive the parts they order! I've contacted a couple of companies to repair my emblems and still haven't heard back! That was last week!

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2 hours ago, jpage said:

 I've contacted a couple of companies to repair my emblems and still haven't heard back! That was last week!

 

Ray @ www.emblemagic.com, service@emblemagic.com , he was the cheapest of the 3 I called. Had a backlog of 9 months.

 

Be careful to measure your mounting studs prior to shipping, he moved mine, so I had to do a bit of manipulating to get it to re-mount correctly...looks good though.

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I know of them, but I also contacted Mrs. Maxwell but haven't heard anything yet. Maybe she isn't doing it anymore.

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20 minutes ago, jpage said:

I know of them, but I also contacted Mrs. Maxwell but haven't heard anything yet. Maybe she isn't doing it anymore.

 

Spoke to them about 3 years ago....also try www.nostalgicreflections.com, Jerry Turner, he is on my side, up in Wash State. Vic and I got quotes....back then he was high.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the info. today, everybody seems high! I think this hobby would have a good shot in the arm if everybody came back to earth on pricing! Prices on Ebay are out of this world!

 

Edited by jpage (see edit history)

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On 7/21/2019 at 6:52 AM, Steve9 said:

Let me go into the full radio screw story. My friend Greg, who had a photographic memory, was a lifelong 1936 Dodge man. He came home from the hospital in a 1936 Dodge. He crossed the USA collecting parts. He knew ever single bolt on the car by thread pitch, length,etc. He knew part numbers, by heart. He found and bought an unrestored 36 roadster. As he got older, he got Lupus, which slowed him down, and eventually claimed his life. He sold the roadster to a neighbor who restored it immediately ( body shop owner). When he spoke on anything 36 Dodge, it wasn’t a guess, HE KNEW EVERYTHING! 

When I joined the local Chrysler club, he contacted me and we met. I was at his house, told him my car was complete, save for one bumper bolt cover. He open a drawer in a cabinet and tossed one to me. He was my personal 36 Dodge Jesus. I miss him every day. 

When you need to know everything about your car and meet someone like this,   

its incredible. He came over an saw my car. He told me my car was a factory radio car because of the hole 4 inches down the column on the top of the column was where  the radio ground screw connected. I need to close now and go blow my nose. 

Steve.

Great story.

Mike Northcutt that owned Dodge City Vintage was the same way with the 33 34 35 Dodge trucks. He passed 8 years ago from a Brain Aneurysm.

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In anticipation of the exhaust system arriving my son and I decided to remove the carburetor and see how bad things are in there.  It's a Stromberg carb and has the characters "EXV-2" embossed into the cast iron lower section (which contains the throttle valve).  There's also a brass tag held to the float chamber and that has "3-26B" embossed into it as well as 6 square areas with inspection numbers.  I'll post some pics later today.

The carb was kind of grimy on the outside but fairly clean inside.  There's red powdery stuff in the float bowl, probably rust from the tank.

 

Linkages to the carb were kind of jiggy with pieces of thin wire wrapped around linkage ends to hold them on.  Lost clips and/or cotter pins I suppose.  Someone bent the choke cable sheath clamping arm on the intake manifold pretty severely.  Maybe 90 degrees upward.  I'm guessing that the choke cable broke and was shortened.  I need to look into this.

The brass parts inside the carb (including the float) look so shiny and smooth that I have to believe that this carb was rebuilt shortly before the car was parked inside.  Float level looks lo to my eye but maybe it is correct.  I'll have to get a gasket kit to put it back together.

I was surprised by the 3/8" thick fibre spacer between the carb upper (potmetal) and lower (cast iron) sections.  Probably a heat insulator.

The spare carb that came with the car is a Carter and from what I've read that's the one used on Plymouth models.  The Aussie service manual I have says that the Carter was used on Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, and Desoto models sold down under.  I find it odd that Ma Mopar would use the Carter carb on so many models but not the Dodge.  Was it better?  Was it worse?  Why bother engineering all the necessary attachment fittings for Dodge?

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Here are the carb pics.  After doing some internet research I learned that the carb model number is always stamped on teh flange of mid- to- late 30s Stromberg carbs.  Sure is on mine.  And the silver paint on that flange tells me that this is the original carb for my car's engine.  I'll order a gasket kit tomorrow.  I don't think i'll need anything else.

flangeinfo.JPG

bowlname.JPG

modelnumber.JPG

taginfo.JPG

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