edhd58

Add a Fan shroud or Electric fan

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I have a dilemma. My 42 Ford with a 226 G six cylinder overheats when setting in traffic. It will cool down if I put a fan in front of the radiator which tells me its an airflow problem. Has any made a fan shroud and if so can you post a picture of it? OR should i put a electric fan in front of the radiator??

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Either would probably work, as long as you are sure of the diagnosis. If the temperature is fine while moving on the open road, but rises while stationary, it is most likely an airflow problem, unless something has changed recently that would reduce the fan speed or its efficiency, or the water pump's efficiency.

A shroud would probably be less obviously out of character. Measure the radiator core are to be covered, and start searching for a shroud that will cover 90% of its area, and see how tightly it will enclose the fan's blades. My reading says electric fans work better sucking through a radiator from behind, than trying to push through from in front. They also need a shroud for efficiency.

jp 26 Rover 9

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Is the radiator in good condition? I.e. all the tubes open and working. Also, I have heard of cars with overheating problems that have had a recore and the core had too few rows of tubes. Once the right core was put in, there were no more problems. And of course you are sure the water pump is working properly and the fan belt not slipping.

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Not really trying to be argumentative but the cooling system worked fine when new. Why not fix what is wrong with the cooling system? Restoring to original condition is usually easier and cheaper than trying to engineer something to fix a problem.

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MCHinson, I agree it probably did work fine new. And I dont have any idea why with all new parts it isnt working fine now.  

 

Spiineyhill, The radiator was purchased at the NSRA swap meet in Louisville. It had OLD masking tape  around all the holes, and was sold a NOS. Looking inside it

before I installed it, it looked NOS. The engine is a fresh rebuild with a rebuilt water pump, but a modern style thermostat not the original type.

 

JP928, Yes it stays cool running down the road, but heats up idling setting still. I dont have any room to put one behind the radiator

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29 minutes ago, First Born said:

Does it actually get to 200 or more?

 

  Ben

 Yes Ben, it has been hot enough that by the time i could get out of still traffic it was "percolating" and had blown anti-freeze out of the radiator

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I put a pancake fan in front of my radiator several years ago to solve the same problem.

Wired it straight to the Batt w/ a 15 amp fuse and a toggle switch under the dash.

Solved my low speed "parade heat" issues.

If you go this route get the biggest fan you can fit in front of the Rad and mount it as high as you can.

 

Ask me how I know.............. 

100_2136.jpg

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You haven't had a flat battery yet?

22 minutes ago, FLYER15015 said:

I put a pancake fan in front of my radiator several years ago to solve the same problem.

Wired it straight to the Batt w/ a 15 amp fuse and a toggle switch under the dash.

Solved my low speed "parade heat" issues.

If you go this route get the biggest fan you can fit in front of the Rad and mount it as high as you can.

 

Ask me how I know.............. 

100_2136.jpg

 

You haven't had a flat battery yet?

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I would try another water pump. You could have a bad water pump (even if new). You might want to consider removing the freeze plugs and checking the water jacket for obstructions. It is possible that you could have some issues in the water jacket that are marginal to the point that they only show up under the more stressful conditions of low speed idle.

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Did you install the reconditioned engine and the NOS radiator at the same time? 

If you did so it maybe that all the gunk in the engine water jacket has come loose when the engine was being overhauled and has now been flushed out and is blocking the tubes in the radiator. 

 

It is not a common problem but it does happen in the old engines.  It is not unusual when blasting the water jacket in an old Ford block to get bits of wire and sand from the original casting process out.

It should run cool so I would be checking for obstructions in the water flow, ie radiator, thermostat not opening enough, belt slipping etc.

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David i Did install the NOS radiator At the same time the rebuilt engine went in. The tranny is making a nose so in a few days motor and trans well be coming out. I'll check the radiator for junk then. MCHinson. I well look for a New pump but the G engine parts are getting harder yup come by. The only water pumps i can find so far are the old straight find ones that they say caused cavitation. 

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Check your distributor vacuum chamber. A leaking chamber will contribute to over heating due to retarded timing and leaned out fuel mixture.

 

(o[]o)

 

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JWLawrence. Hadn't thoughtof that. I don't have the vacuum wipers so That's plugged o.k. the carb. I need to check that to make sure ours a good seal. 

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JWL.

Today I finally got around to working on the car.

Got me some brake cleaner and started spraying all over the carb.

Turns out you are right. there was a vacuum leak where the advance fitting connects to the carb.

I thought I had tightened the fitting, but had not.

Got  it tight and readjusted the air/fuel mix on the carb and it runs better now than it has in a while.

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edhd58, pleased to hear the news about fixing the loose connection. Did you check the chamber to see if it holds vacuum?

 

(o[]o)

 

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