maok

'28 Chrysler M Engine re-build

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This the outlet for the oil pressure gauge (without the line) and the oil filter,  my car didn't have a filter fitted, so this line has been diverted to the sump inlet. Surely this is not correct, this would relieve the oil pressure in the main gallery?

 

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Edited by maok
grammar (see edit history)

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Looks like you making good progress there maok, that sump inlet is simply that a "sump inlet" it delivers the filtered oil back to the sump and not to the main gallery. the main gallery in feed through the system in line with the oil outlet fitting thus giving to the oil pressure being delivered to the main gallery. WOW you have an oil filter now very modern of you. Cheers mate!   

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Haven't got the oil filter yet!!!!  Damn VPW.

 

This is how it was in the engine from my car, which makes no sense. No wonder why my oil pressure was always at about 10psi when engine oil was hot.

 

 

IMAG1736.thumb.jpg.efe6bfbe5d8f68d6b6f1b54e90114a80.jpg

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Almost done now.

IMAG1740.thumb.jpg.48679dce22793b4ec1a613e512671397.jpgIMAG1741.thumb.jpg.d95e7704ff854f714dd8dddaf53fbbb8.jpgIMAG1745.thumb.jpg.4199c644858457279ce2838a2ac9d206.jpg

 


There is always a hiccup but this one didn't test my character.

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Progress looks good just wondering where you sourced your pistons and valves from

Cheers Ben

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The pistons and rings are JP pistons from Adelaide, however, it's cheaper to buy them via Autospurlus in Melbourne, not direct. They cost about $900au IIRC.

 

I don't know where the machinist got the valves, probably Autospurlus as well.

 

 

Edited by maok (see edit history)

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After a couple set backs, all my doing, its ready to go back in. 

 

The head gasket is yet to be torqued down, which I will do when its in the engine bay.

Now the big question, to spray or not to spray the head gasket?

 

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Pulled out the input shaft on the spare gearbox to align the clutch plate.

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And my dodgy generator capping. I may even turn the carby around to be able to install an air cleaner.

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Thanks mate, I have my fingers crossed that it doesnt scream and yell when it turns over.

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Murphy's law is universal, it always seems to apply to a distributor. 180 degree out, when one hears back fire from the carb and tail pipe.

 

Well she started with lots of drama, water jacket bolts needed tightening some more, water was going everywhere. But glad to report that was no screaming and yelling from the engine. 

WoW! How quiet it is to the previous engine. No oil leaks yet, all fingers crossed.

 

However, my rattling noise is still there....😯 I can feel it via the clutch pedal and the gear stick. I thought it may have been the speedo cable drive at the gearbox end  but no luck.

I suspect it maybe the tail/drive shaft joints - Ball and Trunion. The rattle is not there when I accelerate but is there when I back off or  at constant speed. I had the real wheels off the floor and it would only make the rattle when in 3rd gear backing off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Any play in those joints? If they are like mine, there is no grease nipple and they are packed for 10,000 mile service.

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Posted (edited)

There is some play but nothing too serious.

 

Here are pics of the joints. One of the caps is a little loose over the ball section, otherwise they look good. The two springs are not originals. There was plenty of grease pack in there, probably too much.

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The more I think about it, the issue probably is in the gearbox. I am going to do one more test today, see if the rattle is apparent when I put the gearbox into neutral when I back off the power.

Edited by maok (see edit history)

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The rattle is still there when rolling in neutral. The mystery continues.

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The mystery of the rattle is solved....😁

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1 hour ago, maok said:

The mystery of the rattle is solved....

C'mon, maok, don't leave us hanging like this after all this time!

 

CONGRATULATIONS!

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Thanks @Grimy.

 

Drum roll..................................

 

Drive shaft had worn inside the pockets of the balls. When I inspected the drive shaft initially, the balls looked GREAT! However, neglected to look inside the cups, which are worn badly. Why do they make the balls from hardened steal and the cups from mild steal? It surely is easier to replace the balls than the cups.

 

New modern drive shaft (almost a hotrod now) and she is less rattly, I can hear the coins rattling in my pockets...lol

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8 hours ago, maok said:

I can hear the coins rattling in my pockets.

I suppose the coins rattling/jingling in your pockets is because there is no longer the sound of crisp bills from your wallet....  🙂

 

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Posted (edited)
On 3/8/2019 at 3:15 AM, Grimy said:

I suppose the coins rattling/jingling in your pockets is because there is no longer the sound of crisp bills from your wallet....  🙂

 

You're not wrong mate.

 

One bloke quoted $1500....😧

$690 seemed reasonable with a one day turn around.

 

I can now report with a 80mile round trip for a wedding yesterday, she pulls like a teenage boy...lol

Very comfortable pulling to 45mph, no blowby smoke when stopped at traffic lights to take the anxiety away from the bride....😁

 

Can even accelerate up this bridge,

Image result for photo of gateway bridge brisbane

Edited by maok (see edit history)
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Wow so $1500 for the modern drive shaft yeah seems a little excessive even $690 to me seems plenty. I was thinking about doing the same but my old one is ok so I think I will keep it until a problem occurs. I should have guessed it would be over $500, we are currently doing our slack season maintenance on our farm machinery and every trip to town seems to be a minimum of $500, oh well good to know that I’m supporting others😁

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Great to hear maok, 

 

I hope that this engine services you well for many years to come.

 

Cheers mate!

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22 minutes ago, Sasha39 said:

Great to hear maok, 

 

I hope that this engine services you well for many years to come.

 

Cheers mate!

 

Thanks mate, you are welcome to have a look when you are next in Brisbane.

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On 12/14/2018 at 11:26 PM, herm111 said:

Mr. Maok, I hope those are not the rods that you are going to use, in your new engine. All those holes that are inside the Rod  bearing, that I see, and in the out side thrust flanges, is dirt in your bearing babbitt. Those particular holes, are are caused from a Dirty pour, that had skimmings from the top of the babbitt pot surface,  or some Guys just heat babbitt up in a ladle, and is poured into the jig, very crude. When you do it that way, the babbitt in the ladle will burn, and the burnt babbitt will go down the the bearing, and make the holes that you see. 

 

The problem is, the  holes are not just on the surface, they will go clear to the core surface on the rod. So now you have dirt, between the tinning, if there is any, and the babbitt, which means that it is not stuck, as nothing sticks to dirt.

 

Also, look at where the out sides of the thrust, touch the rod side, if that side is stuck, it will look like one metal, soaked in to the other. If there is a crack between the babbitt, and the rod, like water on wax, it will not be stuck.

 

I will post some pictures of what dirt looks like from the back of the bearing, and also what the side of a flange should, and should not look like.

 

It also looks like someone took Emery Cloth, to the inside of your bearings!

 

Thanks,

 

Herm. 

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Are the mains bearing shells or new Babbit. I was told the old shells could have Babbit added and then line bored. Was this method used?

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