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'28 Chrysler M Engine re-build


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On 3/8/2019 at 3:15 AM, Grimy said:

I suppose the coins rattling/jingling in your pockets is because there is no longer the sound of crisp bills from your wallet....¬† ūüôā

 

You're not wrong mate.

 

One bloke quoted $1500....ūüėß

$690 seemed reasonable with a one day turn around.

 

I can now report with a 80mile round trip for a wedding yesterday, she pulls like a teenage boy...lol

Very comfortable pulling to 45mph, no blowby smoke when stopped at traffic lights to take the anxiety away from the bride....ūüėĀ

 

Can even accelerate up this bridge,

Image result for photo of gateway bridge brisbane

Edited by maok (see edit history)
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Wow so $1500 for the modern drive shaft yeah seems a little excessive even $690 to me seems plenty. I was thinking about doing the same but my old one is ok so I think I will keep it until a problem occurs. I should have guessed it would be over $500, we are currently doing our slack season maintenance on our farm machinery¬†and every trip to town seems to be a minimum of $500, oh well good to know that I‚Äôm supporting othersūüėĀ

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22 minutes ago, Sasha39 said:

Great to hear maok, 

 

I hope that this engine services you well for many years to come.

 

Cheers mate!

 

Thanks mate, you are welcome to have a look when you are next in Brisbane.

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/14/2018 at 11:26 PM, herm111 said:

Mr. Maok, I hope those are not the rods that you are going to use, in your new engine. All those holes that are inside the Rod  bearing, that I see, and in the out side thrust flanges, is dirt in your bearing babbitt. Those particular holes, are are caused from a Dirty pour, that had skimmings from the top of the babbitt pot surface,  or some Guys just heat babbitt up in a ladle, and is poured into the jig, very crude. When you do it that way, the babbitt in the ladle will burn, and the burnt babbitt will go down the the bearing, and make the holes that you see. 

 

The problem is, the  holes are not just on the surface, they will go clear to the core surface on the rod. So now you have dirt, between the tinning, if there is any, and the babbitt, which means that it is not stuck, as nothing sticks to dirt.

 

Also, look at where the out sides of the thrust, touch the rod side, if that side is stuck, it will look like one metal, soaked in to the other. If there is a crack between the babbitt, and the rod, like water on wax, it will not be stuck.

 

I will post some pictures of what dirt looks like from the back of the bearing, and also what the side of a flange should, and should not look like.

 

It also looks like someone took Emery Cloth, to the inside of your bearings!

 

Thanks,

 

Herm. 

1911 Marmon Rods With Out Side Rist Pin Oiling 009.jpg

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1911 Marmon Rods With Out Side Rist Pin Oiling 046.jpg

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Buick Bearings, 1930 019.jpg

 

 

Are the mains bearing shells or new Babbit. I was told the old shells could have Babbit added and then line bored. Was this method used?

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12 hours ago, stakeside said:

 

 

Are the mains bearing shells or new Babbit. I was told the old shells could have Babbit added and then line bored. Was this method used?

Yes, we babbitt the steel shells and left .070 thousandths more babbitt then the size of the crankshaft journals, after grinding. Then the inserts are fit, to each saddle, and align bored.

 

Herm.

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After clicking a few hundred miles I thought I would do an update on how the engine is running.

 

Oil pressure is reading between 20(@idle) - 40psi(@30-35mph) when hot, previously 5-13psi...lol

All the cylinders are about 85psi on the compression gauge.

The vacuum gauge reading 19-20, there is a slight mis-fire.

The car has lost some of its vintage characteristics, no smoking and no rattling from the engine.

I can now use the 3 speed gearbox as a 2 speed, 2nd and 3rd only required. It¬†climbs pretty much any hill effortlessly...ūüėÄ

The balancer has shifted, so my timing marks are useless.¬†The engine paint I used was a cheap brand and is washing off with oil...ūüėē

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  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would just ask the question here.

 

Does any know what colour the engine should be for my '28 series 62?

 

The paint I used previously has not stuck to the block at all so this time I want to do it right, starting with the colour. Should it be the colour I used previously, blue/green?

 

I have pulled the engine out, removed the old enamel with paint stripper.

IMAG3275.thumb.jpg.f9bfceddd5b8ba73c4b9a24edb6b0c25.jpg

Edited by maok (see edit history)
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I believe in the bluegreen-colour. 56 Ford Meadowgreen for the Series 65 according to Sherwood Kahlenberg back in 1981. This looks almost like the one scientifically formulated for a 32 on another thread on this forum. But, I have also read that varieties of black are correct, and anyhow the heads should be silver or red. I also struggle with some flaking of paint, possibly due to me not removing all traces of grease before painting it in 2016. Looks better now.

 

1808074492_CR190321MlingaflassarpmotorCR.thumb.jpg.98410ddef207f00d1235ebf33bcecf34.jpg

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Maok,

You have been to great lengths to pull the motor and take the paint off to redo it, so why paint it non original colours?

A black engine with a silver or red head is what should be in your car. My 2c worth.

 I have degreased engines using oven cleaner, it works great for getting the oil out of the cast iron, but make sure you wash it off with plenty of water as it is caustic. I have then used ordinary household enamel or 2K paint on blocks etc with good results.

Viv.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Viv, I have been considering it for awhile, though, for it to be period accurate it would need to be all black, which is too boring for me, and plus, there is an alternator, the generator is gone, no vacuum pump, and other things that are not period. It's almost a hotrod...:(

 

I am planning on selling this year, so this will just give it some colour. 

 

Some progress today,

IMAG3300.thumb.jpg.d5d8d7be98098d3b02925927d871c603.jpg

 

The head is too orange, next week I will change to a more fire engine red. My bottom still needs to be done.

The block colour is New Ford Grey by dupli-color.

 

The accessories like the water pump, starter, water jacket&valve covers, fan, etc will the gloss black, like  the modified oil filler tube you see.

Edited by maok (see edit history)
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