?Remove 29U Ply Rear Brake Drum/Hub - Wire Wheel

[frank29u]

How do I remove the rear brake drum/hub from the axle?  I'm guessing there is a special tool which I don't have.  I really don't want to drive the car to get it loose.

Thanks for any help.   frank

[keiser31]

This is what you need along with sledge hammer....make sure it's not a Chinese tool or the tool will break. Be certain you adjust the brakes inward away from the drum prior to removing drum.

Edited November 19, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[frank29u]

Thank you!   Great picture.  The sledge hammer is easy.  Where might I find this puller?   frank

[ply33]

Available through NAPA or any decent auto supply store (though they may have to order it in).

 

Here is a page showing it in use for a rear axle seal repair.

[frank29u]

More great info.  Thank you ply 33.  Like you link for repair.   Will also google.   frank

[Taylormade]

See if you can find one one EBay.  A good used one goes for 80 to 100 bucks and they are American made.  The Chinese made pullers are junk and will break.

[frank29u]

Thanks Taylormade.  Found an OTC on Amazon, but not familiar with OTC.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7394-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B0002SRH60/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AD22EP4H2DCAHJ7TQRNV

 

We have a Ford A & T store in Msp, Little Dearborn, and I was going to check with them for possible rental.

 

Have been religiously following Daphne, fantastic work you do!   frank

[keiser31]

I used a short sledge hammer at first and it was a no go. Use one with about a two foot or longer handle.

[frank29u]

keiser31, that looks exactly what I see, but your pic shows much cleaner underneath.  Iv'e understood you never force anything, you just get a bigger hammer - now we positively know the truth!  Will inform of how this unfolds.

I'm working on a roadster, my fantasy car, which just hit town last Thursday.  However, my Sedan is my first car purchased in '65 and I have many memories working on it with my dad, a FILO for me, First In Last Out.    frank

[Taylormade]

Love that roadster!

[keiser31]

GORGEOUS cars!

[hchris]

14 hours ago, keiser31 said:

This is what you need along with sledge hammer....make sure it's not a Chinese tool or the tool will break. Be certain you adjust the brakes inward away from the drum prior to removing drum.

 

Quote

 

Just my two cents, even with the correct tool don't expect it to come straight off, depending how long its been installed you may have to progressively put tension on give it a wack then go and have a coffee before the next blow. I have had a situation where it took a couple of days to get one off; oh and a word of caution, leave the axle nut on a couple of threads so that the drum doesn't fly across the shed when it lets go. 

[Curti]

All above advice is good.  I put a socket and 1/2 air impact to it first. If nogo hit it with a 4 pound mall.  If still nogo heat the hub with a acetylene torch. Remember always put the nut on the axle.

 

How is the move going. I have been going to LDB since Pete was on Washington AV. 

[keiser31]

7 hours ago, hchris said:

 

 

Just my two cents, even with the correct tool don't expect it to come straight off, depending how long its been installed you may have to progressively put tension on give it a wack then go and have a coffee before the next blow. I have had a situation where it took a couple of days to get one off; oh and a word of caution, leave the axle nut on a couple of threads so that the drum doesn't fly across the shed when it lets go. 

It took me a week to remove the one I posted a photo of. No heating involved....just a few taps each day. Finally, I got tired of no action and brought out the big sledge. BOOM! One hit later it was off.

Edited November 20, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[frank29u]

Thanks for the compliments!  The sedan is stock down to the functioning Kingston vac tank.

 

hcris and curti, I appreciate your advice.  The last thing I need is to have it hit me, or worse, my wife's car!

[Spinneyhill]

Just remember when you hammer on the end of the tool and thus the axle, you are hammering the wheel bearings and may damage them, i.e. that lateral impact is resisted by the bearings.

[keiser31]

37 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

Just remember when you hammer on the end of the tool and thus the axle, you are hammering the wheel bearings and may damage them, i.e. that lateral impact is resisted by the bearings.

Yes....NEVER hammer the end of the axle.

[frank29u]

Success!!  Thank all of you for your advice and precautions, invaluable!

Tracked down a puller and both hubs are off without any hammering.  See the borrowed weapon and my trusty monkey wrench.  I think I was lucky.

A surprise after removing the front wheel - Delco-Lovejoy shock.

[keiser31]

EXCELLENT!

[ply33]

2 hours ago, frank29u said:

Success!!  Thank all of you for your advice and precautions, invaluable!

Tracked down a puller and both hubs are off without any hammering.  See the borrowed weapon and my trusty monkey wrench.  I think I was lucky.

A surprise after removing the front wheel - Delco-Lovejoy shock.

 

Congratulations on getting the hubs off!

 

And no surprise on the Delco-Lovejoy shocks: The surprise would have been to find shocks from some source other than Delco-Lovejoy.

 

Chrysler used components from the various Delco related brands through 1934. It is my understanding that GM made a decision to have Delco exclusively sell to GM so Chrysler had to switch vendors.

[frank29u]

Thank you keiser31 and ply33!

 

Re: shocks.  Actually, my surprise was that it had shocks on the front axle since my sedan has none.  This because the sedan was heavier or buyer didn't want to pay additional for them?  I believe they were an extra cost like the bumpers and wire wheels, among other items.

[ply33]

38 minutes ago, frank29u said:

. . . Actually, my surprise was that it had shocks on the front axle since my sedan has none.  . . . I believe they were an extra cost like the bumpers and wire wheels, among other items.

 

Shocks are listed in the "United Motors" section of the Master Parts List, not in the accessory (group 1) section. And there isn't any notation that I can see about shocks being different between sedans and coupes or being optional. Looks like they started using shocks in '29, at least there is no listing for '28 Q models.

 

Could it be that your sedan had shocks that some previous owner removed?

 

[frank29u]

It is certainly possible they were removed some time along the line, but I don't recall any evidence of them being there.  The car was in pretty sad shape when purchased in '65 with a '53 plate on it, but basically complete including the engine pans, Kingston vac tank and Carter RT-08 carb.

 

Interesting the Sixth Edition, August 1929 Instruction Book does not mention shocks for maintenance or service.  Page 75 is "Accessory Repairs" which lists Battery - Willard Battery Co; Carburetor - Carter Carb. Corp; Ignition Coil, Distributor, Starting Motor, Generator and Horn - United Motors Service Inc; Speedometer - North East Service Inc; Windshield Wiper - Trico Products corp.  Both of my cars were assembled in Aug 1929.

 

I, too have the Parts List with the United Motors section which list both front and rear.  Were they always installed in pairs?  does it make sense they would only do one axle, say the front? 

[ply33]

Seems unlikely to me that they would have shocks only on one axle. But I have no period literature or other documentation to say one way or the other.