padgett Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) OK with the cooler weather I am finally getting to the leaking rear freeze plug. I can see it and having small hands I can even touch it so seems there should be a way to replace it even if I need to make a tool. Hard part looks to be removal. Once out and the surface is cleaned using a rubber expansion should give me a year or two before going through everything & removing the engine. For now (and I know about the other plugs, everything else looks good) a temporary fix to enjoy the nice weather we have now is fine. So is there a way ? A special tool I could make or buy for this? Please help. YWTK. Edited November 17, 2016 by padgett (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 could you take a long rod,sharpen the end,drive it through it,and pop it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Just from looking at your photo here is what I would try: Use a long drill bit (I have some over a foot long) to drill a hole on the top side at an angle. Then use a slide hammer with a screw attachment on the end to pull it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Getting it out may be the easy part........ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Oh you forgot replacing the three cradle mounts that the bolt broke. Was just trying to do a quick fix good for a year or two, otherwise I'd pull all of the connections and radiator and just swing the engine forward a few inches. OTOH if I can get the old plug out, I can use a rubber expansion plug, have enough room for a wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnemac Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) I had to remove a blower motor in a 2000 El Dorado that the cam cover would not let out. Caddy forums said order Thexton 419X GM engine moving tool, remove the two upper doglegs and attach it. Loosen the front two motor mount bolts about two inches and tighten the Thexton tool until you have the clearance you need. Worked for me, but i realize the engine is rocking forward from the top and may not help, but I throw it out. I found the best deal on the tool on that big auction site under JBtoolsales02 for a shipped price of 39.94. Some people complain about replacing the rear spark plugs ( I have no problem) but this tool would certainly help. Edited November 18, 2016 by johnemac correction (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) I'll give it a try. Have you used this method ? That crow looks very uncomfortable. Thexton would make sense for clearance on the firewall, is how I replace the rear plugs on the GTP, but in this case it is the trans that is the problem & would just rock with engine. No rust. Actually cradle bolt fear is not breaking the bolt but spinning the nut. Edited November 18, 2016 by padgett (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 I'd pay a double sawbuck for one of those kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Again it is that short remover that us useless here. Think I'm just going to use a really long bit to drill a hole and see if I can lever it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 I understood, just need a 1/16" 12" long drill bit to make a starter hole for the screw. Just hope there is enough meat left in the freeze plug to pry. Alternative is to make the hole big enough to slip a flat bladed screwdriver in and pry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Look up a set of lady slipper pry bars. They are really handy in a situation like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 Tool to drill pilot hole. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 Thank you. Have decided that dropping the oil pan will give me a little more access so have ordered an oil pan gasket set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 OK pulled the pan and have more clearance now, can get my whole hand on it now but is still at about a 60-70 degree angle. Black surface at top is the tranny. Still a bit nervous about trying to start a drywall screw without a pilot hole. Are you sure about this ? At such a high angle ? Pan gasket was one I've never seen before, almost a translucent white silicon of some sort. BTW the two nuts next to the flex plate and under the plastic cover take a 12mm socket, rest of pan screw take a 10mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 (edited) can you weld a short bolt to the middle of the da*n thing ? Edited November 21, 2016 by ChrisWhewell (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 No, too close to flammable things and I do not weld. Wondering if pounding the screw in breaks the FP loose so easier to remove. Know there is a pounding technique to rotate plug and pull out but not sure about the angle. Procrastinating, Oil pan gaskets get here tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 If the leak is not too bad, perhaps clean it well and "putty" it with something. Maybe that "Seen on TV " spray on rubber. Never know till you try. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 Nice idea but I tend to go for a "nice drive" of 100 miles or more. When hot is more of a trickle than a drip and now that I have the pan off am just waiting for the pan gaskets to show up then will try to eyelid. First & screw method second. Just need to be careful not to drive it inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 Oh I agree, pull the engine and go through/clean/paint everything is the best way but my son has no interest and I lack motivation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 impact chisel directed towards one side of it would turn it out probably in 2 sec. , and if the hole is only 3/4" deep, might not be a problem, then just pry out with screwdriver once loose ? Just thinking off the top of my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 Well have everything needed (mart at the wall was out of distilled water for a while) so spent a couple of hours onnit. Got screw in (driving did not work so drilled a pilot hole. Screw and washer in place. Can hook slide hammer but only get about a 3" travel, May need to build an extension. In any event after a few hundred kabangs my arms hurt and I see no movement. Sprayed with PB blaster and may try again when my thumb heals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 im no mechanic but it looks like the screw is catching on the block, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 Wondered about that but screw is relatively loose. Had thought about screwing in until hits wall and see if it pushes out but not sure how strong wall is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 maybe a crowbar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 I have a space about 8" long that is only 2" wide to get to the plug and then it is at about a 60 degree angle. Had to remove the oil pan to get another 1/4". Wish I had more options. Thinking about seeing if I can drill a hole on the middle, I really do not want to score the block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 I'm surprised a slide hammer wouldn't break it loose and pull it out. As I said earlier, a small lady's foot pry bar might be the best tool for removing the freeze plug. They are made for hooking in a hole and levering the plug out with a rocking motion. Although the bars are short, the small hook on the end of the bar can apply a tremendous amount of pulling power. You will need to drill a bigger hole so the hook will fit in. Harbor Freight probably stocks them but they may not be made very well. Be sure to get a set with a pointed hook on the head like the ones shown below if you decide to buy a set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Can you get a Dremel tool in there to grind the sides and weaken them? Maybe that surplus store you told me about off the north interstate has 1/8 in shank carbide burrs....that would move some metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 20 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: A recurved, toothed bar (or notched pipe) could hook it from the top down- and hammer it out. Use the downward angle to your advantage. this is my pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 All good ideas, the problem is access. Dremel on a flex shaft might work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlymouthPE Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Just a suggestion but why not try to loosen the plug, which is probably tight due to rust from the block, by tapping it at the top lip to possibly break the bond. When pull is not working then push may help. Some light to moderate tapping may help free the plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 It looks like the threads sticking through the back side of the plug might be hitting the block, keeping the plug from pivoting outward when you pull on the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Have thought the same thing about the other end of the screw. Have a hook tip for my slide hammer but need about a foot extension. Think I'll hie to HD and see if I can cobble up something. Fortunately I can just leave on lift while I ruminate a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 I know you have thought about many solutions to this issue and perhaps the nasty access angle prevents driving one side of the plug into the hole causing it to spin in place and then grip and pull out, which is usually how they are removed? Even if the worst happened; it falls inside, and can't be retrieved, I doubt it will do an real harm. It is in a relatively dead area, as far from the water pump as possible and in a sort of dead area at the bottom of the cylinders. Perhaps could hook a bent wire in the existing screw hole as fishin' line? JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 and listened to everyone also thank you. Key seems to be to get it moving. Plan to get to Lowes or HD and see if I can cobble up an extension for my slide hammer. Or just slide a drift into a deep socket on a long extension and kabang it. This will get done, just waiting for the stars to align properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 If you wait long enough it will rust enough to fall out on it's own. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Centuries in Orlando. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Good idea. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 14 hours ago, padgett said: Centuries in Orlando. If that is the case, then why is it rusted at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 Dunno but my 1990 Bonneville with 3800 did the same thing within a decade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Too bad you can't controllably freeze the local area so it pops out on its own, like using liquid nitrogen. I wonder what the factory pop-out spec is on a freeze plug, Another wild and crazy thought is to drill a second hole, and put thick screws in each of the two holes. Unplug your Lincoln welder and hook each pos and neg to one and the other screw. Then pump 50 amps through the freeze plug in the region between the two screws, which will likely fry a hole big enough to get a long screwdriver through. Third wild and crazy idea, make the block the cathode in an anodizing circuit, and hook the positive pole of the battery to the freeze plug itself. Up the amps and the freeze plug will dissolve around its perimeter - depending on the alloy of which the freeze plug is composed. If possible, obtain another "stock" freeze plug and check its reduction potential on the bench vs. the block alloy. My guess is that the freeze plug is higher up in the electromotive series than cast iron. There definitely would be anodic dissolution around its perimeter where it contacts the block. Hmm, let me do a search on "anodic freeze plug dissolution" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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