5 speed stiffness

[mensanguy]

I recently bought my fourth ( and last, according to my wife) TC.  This one is a 16v with a 5 speed, with only 24k miles. It really was a barn find, the owner dropped dead of a heart attack four years ago, and it stayed in his mini-barn while his darling, precious children fought over his estate.

I wound up buying it from the estate, and it hasn't been touched since he parked it. This guy was a >fanatic<, it is in almost like-new shape. A new battery, some injector cleaner and premium gas,  and some highway driving has it running and performing like a new one.

 

However.......

 

The gear shifter is extremely stiff. It does shift, and goes into all gears, ( reverse with a bit of difficulty) Side-to-side action is very stiff, and forward gear changes are a little better.  I changed the gear oil, with no change. Clutch is great, no slipping or dragging.  No grinding in any of the gears while shifting.  I read all the threads on this tranny, but couldn't find an answer. 

 

Has the grease on the bushings turned to glue?  Have the bushings seized somewhat? Are the cables needing lubrication?  Does the whole thing need to be soaked in WD-40?

 

I humbly solicit the advice of the experts on this forum.....

[Degerb]

I have a 1990 TC with the 16V and 5 speed. My car has considerably more use that yours. However I experienced the same problems as yours. I took the car to my local transmission shop and they attempted to free it up by fluid change WD40 etc to no avail. They then told me they thought the shifter rails internally in the tranny were corroded, causing the shifting problems. Since no one here in the States that they were aware of would work on them and the absence of available parts, would require a transmission change. I would suggest you contact Rick at RDI, he in my estimation is a Guru on these transmissions. He was able to procure a good used unit for me and now my car shifts like new. Hopefully you won't need to go to the extreme that I did! Good Luck!

[Nile]

While I'm afraid Degerb is right about the problem being internal, it might be worth lubing the shifter, itself.  You might be able to simply untie the leather lace on the boot and spray some PB Blaster or WD40 around in there and see if that helps at all.  Worst case, you'd need to loosen the console to get at the shifter.  Again, it probably won't be this easy a fix, but what have you got to lose?  If not, Rick is definitely the one to contact.  -  Nile

[Reaper1]

Before replacing the entire transmission, take the cables loose from the tranny and see if it's the cables that are sticking. Then, try to shift the tranny by hand and see how that feels. It may be as simple as a sticky cable.

[mensanguy]

Amazing Greace, er grease!

I took the console out, and removed the entire shifter assy. The lube on it looked like it was 28 years old. ( it was)

Disassembled everything, and thoroughly cleaned in my parts washer. Reassembled using Mobil synthetic grease, and installed.

The difference was amazing!   Now I have crisp, easy shifts, and it performs a whole lot better.

 

One more question--I did not remove or lube the cables. Is this required or recommended?

[TwinCamFan]

I'm sure it would help if the cables were lubed with a good quality Teflon based lubricant however lubing them on the car doesn't work, you only get a little bit right at the ends of the cable which does nothing.  Back when I used to build 70's and 80's motorcycles I'd remove the throttle (or whatever cable), hang it upright, build a little funnel out of aluminum foil and a rubber band  at the top end.  Then fill the funnel with lube and leave it hanging until the lube dripped out of the bottom end of the cable.  Worked like a charm but it would be a ton of work to dissasemble and remove your shift cables.

 

Out of curiosity, what's the build date of your car, pre June of 88 or post June?

[mensanguy]

build date is   08/89

[TwinCamFan]

I think you mean 8/88 but either way it's a win.  You see a pre 6/88 TC and a post 6/88 TC are two very different cars.  SUBSTANTIAL running change upgrades.  There are at least 10 that I've found.  My 3 favorites?  You have a 'Common block'  It is a thicker  casting with more webbing between the cylinders for stiffness (the common block is shared with the 2.5l motor).  Easiest way to identify a CB is to look down by the oil filter boss in the block, absence of the vestigial  fuel pump block off plate is the giveaway.  It also has a better sealing oil pan, a revised crank seal(its a different crankshaft alltogther), better water pump etc etc.  You also have fuel lines that un NEXT to the valve cover instead of the stupid over the top earlier design. The last feature of the later build car is so important to me that I've actually CONVERTED 3-4 cars over to the upgrade.  The double pivot K frame  The control arms tell the story, two pivot points instead of one pivot and one stub strut at the rear. Huge difference IMO and immeadiatly noticeable after the conversion.  Lots of little changes as well, cloth tweeter covers instead of silly fuzzy ones, water tite rubber strut nut covers instead of those goofy rattle-ly plastic ones that scrape the strut tower paint off. The list goes on and on.  See, your car is even better than you knew

[mensanguy]

Not trying to be difficult, but it clearly says 08/89  vin  zc2fr1103kb204233--just checked-

 

other one is 07/89  vin zc2fr110xkb204424

 

Are they still as good as you stated earlier??????

[Hemi Dude]

TwinCam, Even my 11/88 built TC vin# 200766 has early block, those goofy rattle-ly plastic ones that scrape the strut tower paint off, early style control arms, etc...  

With over 280 thousand miles on the odo, even the early models were just fine. I think the major change came some time in 89 as mensanguy stated.

[TwinCamFan]

I guess I am still learning about TC's after all these years  I suppose due to the nature of their 'hand assembly' there are always variations. Guy I still would expect you have a common block double pivot K fame etc etc.  Post up a nice clear engine shot that shows the strut towers and we will look together.  Ponder this, if they weren't building the 1990 TC's by 7/89, when were they built? In my experience previous to THIS TC, the cas built after 6/88 were the late style engine/suspension cars.

[ghostymosty]

Looks like the 1990 model year started being built in September 1989 with around the 205000 vin.  According to the VIN list, the July and August 1989 build dates could have jumped around with a 204200 to 204400 vin. These cars were built out of order if a dealer actually put in an order for a certain color/engine combo.

[mensanguy]

Ok, here are the photos you requested.....

[Reaper1]

Looks like a later style to me...

[4 Peaks]

My 89 8V was built 11/88 and has the old block. The timing belt, and the cam and crank gears are square cut teeth. The common block has the rounded teeth on the timing belt and gears. If you order a timing belt for an 89, you will get one for the common block. If you need the square cut of the older style, order one for an 88 or earlier 2.2 Chrysler/Dodge.

 

Is this the same case for the 16V ?

 

[Reaper1]

16V is unique and has its own belt.

[TwinCamFan]

Yes Mensa, as hoped for you have the later build style with the common block and all the upgrades.

 

4 Peaks, all of the 16 V cars have a square tooth belt but depending on pre common block/post common block running change the crank pully will not interchange with eachother.

 

AJ