Timing and plugs?

[MBL]

Well now we have a carb. Its not the Rochester but I think it will work. Anyway I have to put the plug wires in but I don't know where to start with the number on plug. Will the timing marks be easy to see? I suppose I should just go that rout. Is there another way to tell if the No 1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke? Also does anyone out there have a spare fuel pump for this thing or is there a pump that will work on this car that would be cheaper and more available? Like at the local parts store?<BR>Tim<BR>MBL

[Guest]

so is the distributor installed or removed???

[Guest]

just buy an electric fuel pump.

[MBL]

The Dist is installed and there is an electric pump in the car now but its condition is qusetionable.<BR>Tim<BR>MBL

[WCraigH]

WRT #1 on compression stroke. For those who know this, you can skip the following:<P>When the timing mark on the balancer lines up with the one on the front cover (near the fuel pump mount), #1 cylinder is either on compression or exhaust stroke. You can tell which by sticking you finger or thumb into #1 spark plug hole and rotating the crank by hand clockwise (as seen from the front) with a breaker bar & socket on the crank snout bolt. It helps if all the plugs are removed. When you feel air pushing your finger out, you've got compression stroke. Don't do this with the starter! It will be easier if your helper does it from below the car.<P>Align the distributor per pg 18 of the "Electrical" section of the 55-56 Packard Service manual. You did get your manual, didn't you?<P>I agree with PackardV8: use the electric pump for now. There is NO generic equivalent mechanical fuel pump.<p>[ 08-26-2002: Message edited by: Craig LV ]

[MBL]

I will use the electrical for now. The dist is installed. I haven't done anything with it yet. The wires though I don't know where to put the no. 1. I think I will mess with it tonight.<BR>Tim<BR>MBL

[Guest]

What Craig has told is a good way to do it. BUT, do NOT stick your finger IN the hole just put your thumb or finger OVER the spark plug hole. Putting a finger IN the hole is DANGEROUS. (some people have small fingers).

[MBL]

I'll have Noodles do it. This way I'll sure not to loose my finger. I have not gotten the manual yet as money is really thin! I will as soon as I am in the clear money wise. <BR>Tim<BR>MBL

[Guest]

If you do decide you want a mech fuel pump, Kanter and Chirco both sell them. Also they show up on ebay. What's there now? If no pump I hope at least you have a plate of some kind covering the hole.

[MBL]

There is a plate covering the hole.<BR>Tim<BR>MBL

[MBL]

Hey what about this new format! I guess I will have to get used to it...Anyway I tried to find the #1 plug and where the wire goes on the dist cap. The timing mark seemed to be easy to see and I thought I lined it up ok. I set all of the wires placing the #1 plug in line with the rotor when the engine was turned to about 6 deg btdc. Is this how this should be done?

Tim

MBL

P.S. Oh yeah it didn't start.

[WCraigH]

re: didn't start...not surprising.

Do you have spark?

Method #1 (preferred): Using a timing light, connect to ANY plug wire, turn the engine over on the starter. The timing light should flash if you have spark.

Method #2 (no timing light): Remove one of the plug wires from the spark plug end. Put a WOODEN handle screwdriver into the wire end. Holding the screwdriver BY THE HANDLE place the shaft near the engine while cranking. You should see a decent spark jump the air gap.

If NO SPARK, then fix this first.

Do you have gas in the carb? Several ways to check this. Brute force is to remove the carb and turn it upside down over a catch can. If gas pours out, you have gas delivery.

If no gas, then fix this.

More to follow depending upon the results of the above two.

[MBL]

Well at this point we know that we have spark..We had checked that already. As far as gas we have none at this point because the fuel pump is not hooked up. We were just trying to get it to catch with some quick start. About now I think I am due for a battery recharge.

Tim

MBL

[WCraigH]

You can pour some gas into the carb bowl thru one of the vents on the top (use a small funnel or turkey baster). In my experience, you'll have better luck with both gas and ether (quick start) to get it to catch. Also, is the choke valve closed?

Did you run a compression test? How about checking the timing with a timing light?

BTW, how much experience do you have doing this sort of thing? If a fair amount, then we can skip the obvious stuff.

[MBL]

I have had some decent experience with vintage cars and their maintenace. The newest car I have or have ever had is my 65 TBird. I do all of my own work. I have noticed that if someone has done if before you and they can give you some tips on the easiest way to get the job done. I saves alot of time. There are sometimes tricks that you know as an expert that cut work time and cost down bigtime. When I was learning about T-Birds I had a friend help me along the way. Mainly I am trying to find where on the cap is my #1 plug. I am pretty sure I can get it from there. I thought by locating the timing mark at the proper degrees that was the answer but that didn't work. Maybe I will add some gas as you said. Oh do you have the spark plug #'s that would work besides the H-10 champion?

Tim

MBL

I bought the last of the Champions at the local NAPA for my flathead.

[WCraigH]

The Packard V-8 is fundamentally no different than any other 1950+ carb'd and point dist V-8 engine and shouldn't require any particular expertise to get it to light off. IF it has air/fuel within reasonable limits, "close enough" timing with spark and a little compression, then it should at least fire off. In your case, I have my doubts about that $30 swap-meet 1956 Pontiac carb.

[MBL]

Well as far as the carb is concerned it came off of a running 56 Pontiac. So it was at least good enough for that car to run fine. We will see. I just want to get the thing to kick at this point and cover up the holes left not having a carb.

Tim

MBL

[WCraigH]

Re: Xref-thread. Since the "powers that be" here don't see the value in a separate brand-specific topic about xrefs on this chat site (as was suggested by PackardV8), I've incorporated all the posted info that I'm aware of on my Panther website. My website will be updated during the upcoming long weekend, with a bunch of new stuff... but that's a topic appropriate for another new thread. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/cool.gif" alt="" />

[MBL]

That separate page is a good idea. There is one like that on the HAMB which is called the Techomatic. It is referenced quite often. The H-10 champion plug I was able to get at NAPA. They came individually wrapped in a package with a picture of a lawn mower. They are probably restocked now. What is in there now are these autolite 85 plugs. Thats all they say. Hmmm? Its funny how sometime just because thier "books don't go back that far" they must not have the part. I can't count the # of times I had to go behind the counter to get stuff. Either way these part #'s help alot with beginers. (Me)at least for Packard. Thanks for all of the help.

Tim

MBL

[Guest]

Craig -

Well, the AACA is a broad-based organization and it shouldn't try to be all things to all people. I am just grateful that they have provided this independent space for us to exchange thoughts freely and in a timely nature.

Really, no message forum provides a permanent format that is needed for such interchange info. Moreover, cyberspace is a fragile place - would hate to see information stored only in one place - only to be lost due to some unexpected change. Glad to hear that you are collecting the info and hosting it publicly. I am trying to put together a x-ref page on my personal website, with an eye to someday using it it (without charge) in a more public domain.

Look forward to checking out your updated site