chistech

32' Oldsmobile Deluxe Convertible Roadster

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The modern MA plate is the only distraction unfortunately but it also shows it a modern picture if you know what I mean.

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On 1/30/2020 at 8:13 AM, chistech said:

 

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Ted - what is the name of this color ??  I like it, very unique .... was it a common color ?

 

Steve

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6 hours ago, STEVE POLLARD said:

Ted - what is the name of this color ??  I like it, very unique .... was it a common color ?

 

Steve

Joe said it was a Buick colors. It’s actually two tone but very subtle. I ask joe but I believe he said they were offered by Buick in 32’.

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On 2/1/2020 at 5:25 AM, Mike Macartney said:

Ted, I have just caught up with your progress on the tank and the 'rubber' gearstick moulding. I've had to spend a few days in hospital without access to the internet. Perhaps I may have to ditch my year 2000 Nokia phone that I still use and get a smart phone! You may have mentioned it before, although I could not find it, what are the products Joe uses for moulding the 'rubber'. I would be interested in 'having a go' at the process. Keep up the great posts, I look forward to, and enjoy reading and seeing every one of them. Mike

Hi mike, hope you’re doing better. The two part urethane joe uses comes from a company called Specialtyresin.com. He used a harder formula for the pedal pad that he called Shore 70 I believe. He the got Shore 50 and 40 for the shift boots. 40 is the softest so it seems as the number goes down, so does the hardness but the cure time goes up the softer you go.

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Thanks for asking Ted, I am getting there slowly. Spending time indoors has meant I have had more time to spend on the internet, especially eBay. I have gone and won myself a Bridgeport mill and Jones and Shipman surface grinder. When I asked, whether or not, a machine vice and large angle plate that I could see parts of, in one of the photos, came with the mill? He replied back and said "Anything not put on eBay was going to weighed in for scrap, as the company was downsizing and moving to smaller premises". I replied, that I hated seeing good stuff scrapped, is there any chance of having it? I was the winning bid and was very surprised when 3-pallets of tooling turned up with the machines. I'm a very happy and lucky bunny!

 

Thank you for the information on the two part urethane. I will have a look at the site.

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That’s what I call a score. Last summer, a customer of mine that is an old fish processing plant here in south Boston, called me and told me they were doing away with their  machine shop. An employee was taking the lathe but offered me a Bridgeport mill for $700. I already had my Alliant mill but told him I’d take it as I couldn’t refuse that price. I spoke with my neighbor who polishes all my car stuff and he said he’d take it so my service tech picked it up on our truck and brought it down to us. Turns out it’s a variable speed, X axis power feed, two vices including a Kurt, two drill chucks, a complete set of fly cutters, boring bar set, two sets of collets, and over 100 tool bits. Then they threw in expandable reamers, fixed reamers, tap and dies up to two inch, etc. the list goes on. What a surprise it was and all for $700. Best thing is I can use any of the tooling I need and it’s a simple walk across my yard to my neighbors. 

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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9 minutes ago, JV Puleo said:

Wow!

Joe, are you back or still on “assignment “?

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17 minutes ago, chistech said:

Last summer, a customer of mine that is an old fish processing plant here in south Boston, called me and told me they were doing away with their machine shop.

 

Well, mine was a bit more expensive than that, but it doesn't smell of fish, I think mine might smell of train parts! :)

 

It seems we were both lucky.

 

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I got 'puffed out' just watching them unloading! (leaning on the gate trying to get my breath). My friend Robert got stuck in helping and he is 80 this year.

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48 minutes ago, chistech said:

Joe, are you back or still on “assignment “?

 

I'm still in the UK...going to the National Archives next week.

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On 2/14/2020 at 12:27 AM, STEVE POLLARD said:

Ted - what is the name of this color ??  I like it, very unique .... was it a common color ?

 

Steve

The color on the Oldsmobile is 1932 Buick Prince Blue Dark

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Steve, Buick had two similar colors judging from the paint charts. Code # 1M-206 was Prince Blue Light, and  Code # 246-6325 was Prince Dark Blue. Those colors appear to be what Joe's car was painted. Thanks. John

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Look at our Celebrity, made it in the AACA Magazine i just Got....

 

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Way to go Ted !!

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I second that!!!! Just a beautiful restoration. Ted, any and awards and print you get on the Olds is well deserved. John

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Posted (edited)

Well, a couple days ago I installed my restored fuel tank and that went off without a hitch. I went through the whole underneath of the car cleaning off the spatter from my radiator pushing water out and then greased all the fittings and drive shaft as I only put some light lubrication in the fittings originally. I then decided yesterday to install the other radiator that I had cleaned and serviced. I removed my blocked one from the chrome shell after I took it off the car then installed the serviced one. Put it in the shell and car then hooked up the hoses. I started to fully assemble the car and my brother, who was helping me said "don't do it, test it and run it before putting it all back together". Well I put in a gallon of water and went to add another when we noticed a lot of water running on the floor! WTH! Pulled it back out to find a 1" long vertical fracture crack in the front corner of the bottom tank. I know it wasn't that way when the radiator shop finished it and it wasn't dropped or anything like that. It does fit tightly in the shell but that shouldn't have caused it either. The radiator shop said things like that can just happen and to bring it back. What a bummer. I then realized the one person I know with the worst mechanical bad luck having stuff just go wrong is my brother and I had him helping me. I told him it was his fault! LOL Anyway, now it's back to the shop with both radiators to have him fix it again. And did I mention, I went to take my 31' chevy out for a ride and the carb was flooding over. Replaced the float valve, it started up then stalled flooding over more. Turns out the brass float had three pin holes and it was FULL of gas to the point you couldn't even feel it shaking around until you shook it for a long time to start getting some gas out. So last night, armed with some advice from Jon from the carburetor shop, out came the soldering iron and I repaired the float. All I wanted to do was to drive one of my antique cars yesterday and go to the cemetery to visit my dad's grave. I didn't get there, Damn it! At least I can get some pictures of the new tank in and I'll post those. Here's a shot of the Olds outside for the first time this year.

750A6091-2CCE-42E3-A496-20BA2B110B45.jpeg

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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The nicest '32 Oldsmobile I have ever seen.  Great work.

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Olds is looking good. Sorry you didn't get a chance to do what you really wanted to do.

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Thank you guys. I was able to get the 31’ Chevy  up and running today. I put the carb back together and on the car. It started right up with some choke and ran perfectly. It never needed choking before and would easily flood over so I now assume it was probably a float issue for a long time. With the holes in the float on the top, it probably took a fair amount of time to fill up.

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On 5/26/2020 at 11:29 AM, chistech said:

Well, a couple days ago I installed my restored fuel tank and that went off without a hitch. I went through the whole underneath of the car cleaning off the spatter from my radiator pushing water out and then greased all the fittings and drive shaft as I only put some light lubrication in the fittings originally. I then decided yesterday to install the other radiator that I had cleaned and serviced. I removed my blocked one from the chrome shell after I took it off the car then installed the serviced one. Put it in the shell and car then hooked up the hoses. I started to fully assemble the car and my brother, who was helping me said "don't do it, test it and run it before putting it all back together". Well I put in a gallon of water and went to add another when we noticed a lot of water running on the floor! WTH! Pulled it back out to find a 1" long vertical fracture crack in the front corner of the bottom tank. I know it wasn't that way when the radiator shop finished it and it wasn't dropped or anything like that. It does fit tightly in the shell but that shouldn't have caused it either. The radiator shop said things like that can just happen and to bring it back. What a bummer. I then realized the one person I know with the worst mechanical bad luck having stuff just go wrong is my brother and I had him helping me. I told him it was his fault! LOL Anyway, now it's back to the shop with both radiators to have him fix it again. And did I mention, I went to take my 31' chevy out for a ride and the carb was flooding over. Replaced the float valve, it started up then stalled flooding over more. Turns out the brass float had three pin holes and it was FULL of gas to the point you couldn't even feel it shaking around until you shook it for a long time to start getting some gas out. So last night, armed with some advice from Jon from the carburetor shop, out came the soldering iron and I repaired the float. All I wanted to do was to drive one of my antique cars yesterday and go to the cemetery to visit my dad's grave. I didn't get there, Damn it! At least I can get some pictures of the new tank in and I'll post those. Here's a shot of the Olds outside for the first time this year.

750A6091-2CCE-42E3-A496-20BA2B110B45.jpeg

 

Really looks stunning.  You can see the number of hours that went into it.

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Took my radiator to the repair shop a couple days ago and he soldered up the crack while I waited. Put low pressure air to it and found it leaked in multiple places so I left it with him. When I originally left it with him he was ready to move to his new shop and I’m starting to think he might have thought he worked on m6 radiator and didn’t, getting accidentally confused, thinking he had. I went to the shop today with my radiator shell and installed the radiator back into the shell then we leak tested it again. All was good so it came home with me and hopefully I’ll get it installed in the next day or so. He also got my clogged radiator and is going to try Evaporust and back flushing it to see if a good flow can be restored. Hopefully so as that radiator is in super good structural shape with not leaks but lousy flow.

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Finally, finally, finally, I can relax on my Olds. I put the radiator in yesterday, tightened up the hoses, bottom mounts, and top rods. Based on what happened last time I went no further with reassembly. I filled the radiator up until the water just covered the tops of the tubes as I’ve been told to do and I never had to stop pouring the water in as it went down as fast as I poured it in, something that the other radiator wouldn’t allow. I watched the water come up the top hose through the clear Gano filter I installed which is the right way it should fill up rather than run down from the top tank. 
       So a couple pumps of the gas pedal and a push on the starter pedal and the Olds fired up immediately. Because of the auto choke and special automatic high idle setting featured(all connected to the starter pedal linkage) the engine starts with authority needing to have the idle turned down some right after it starts. It is an incredible starting engine, better than any other old car I’ve ever seen. Well, because of this quick burst of rpm when it starts, I immediately got a ton of air bubbles in my top hose. Slowing the idle down they dissipated but not completely. A rev of the engine and there was a ton of them. OH NO, NOT AGAIN I thought. Please don’t tell me I still had a combustion to coolant leak somewhere in my motor. I started worrying as they wouldn’t stop, only calm down at slow idle but come right back with speed. I shut the car off, went in the house and just tried to forget about it. 
      Later in the night my brother texted me about the 40lb striped bass he caught in the Westport River earlier in the day and I told him what was going on with my car. He said not to worry and he would come over today to look at it with me. When he got here and we fired it up, it continued to exactly the same high rush of bubbles at start up then almost lose them all at low idle. He looked at me and said he didn’t like what he was seeing so we went through a bunch of tests like compression (all were 85-90), pressurizing each piston, and turning it over while rotating spark plugs in and out of cylinders looking for air in the Gano filter to  show up but nothing. So we decided to put all the plugs in and put the cap with wires back on. Started the car then took it for a ride. We first went for gas then drove it about 15 miles with the temp only getting above 165 went we purposely stopped on the side of the road to see just how hot it would get. While we still had bubbles as we were driving (the hood was off so we could watch the Gano) the temp went from just under the 180 it finally got to back down to 165. So I mentioned  to my brother that we should go back to my garage so I could top of the radiator. His eyes got the size of saucers and he said what do you mean top it off, you didn’t top it off? I said I only filled it to the top of the coils as what was recommended to me by many old car guys. He immediately insisted my problem was air getting trapped in the vertical tubes of the radiator and he bet me that there was nothing wrong with my engine. I should also mention that zero water had been pushed out of the overflow tube either nor was there any leaking anywhere. 
       When we got back to the garage, and with the car running, I pulled the cap, then started adding more water/antifreeze mixture. Well the bubbles and foam started immediately going away and the radiator continued to take more water while ever getting close to the overflow. Now there is only about 1 1/2” from the top of the tubes to the top of the overflow tube so it didn’t seem like it would take that much water but it did and continued to. Within 5-10 minutes of running at a high idle and adding water the air was almost completely gone and the hottest we could get it was 180 in the garage with no hood on and no air movement other than the fan. It ended up taking about 3/4 or slightly more of water and still never pushed any Real water over the overflow. It turns out the new radiator flows so well and the water pump is so efficient that when I would start the engine it would quickly suck the radiator down before the water coming back into the radiator top tank could cover the tubes causing tons of air pockets in the radiator. 
      So I’ll say it again, finally I think I’ve got my cooling issues solved and I can relax!🕺🕺🕺🕺

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