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32' Oldsmobile Deluxe Convertible Roadster


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6 hours ago, John S. said:

Ted, all the work that you put into the wood wheels was so worth while, boy did they came out great.

John, I have to agree they were worth all the effort. When you stand at the side of the car, your eyes are drawn right to the wheels. The rich brown spoke with the black sprocket pattern, highlighted with cream white pinstriping, the tall nickel valve stem cover, and the WW tire all come together with a really great look. Black is not my favorite color because of the work to keep it clean but I’m not sure if the wheels, never mind the car, would look as good in any other color. 

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6 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said:

Do you have some vintage plates to put on it for shows?

I do have a single 32’ mass plate that needs painting and if I get it painted, I might just put it on. I am looking into a vanity plate but because it’s a new registration, the RMV told me I can’t apply for 5-6 months for one. I’m thinking of “Olds 32” or “ DCR 32”. In mass you can’t have a number first on a vanity so it limits my choices. If using original plates, the have to have original paint and cannot be restored or painted. Mass is not particularly easy to work with.

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5 hours ago, weathered1 said:

Ted your car looks fantastic, your attention to detail pays off, especially taking it for the first drive without any hick ups. Happy Birthday! See you at Hershey.  George.

Funny you mention no hiccups. Today my brother came by and I took him for a short ride. Half way through, I pulled over and told him to drive. We switch sides, he gets in and starts off. Before I could tell him to give a little time between shifts so it easier on the syncronizers, he shifts it quickly like a race car and second gear pops and nothing! Oh no, I think he just popped second gear synchronizer so I tell him to go into third and it works. So we get to my house and he turns in my drive, then shifts into first, same thing as second, a little grind then no forward drive. Now I kind of panic and while looking over, I see that the free wheeling knob is partially in and it dawns on me that the free wheeling gear box is the problem. I pull the knob all the way out and off we go. Turns out when he got in the drivers side he somehow must have hit the knob in with his right knee, pushing it in some. I damn near had a heart attack!

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Had a pretty good snafu today when I went to go for another shakedown cruise. When I went to start it, there was no reaction from the starter. Ended up pulling off the starter and taking it apart. Turns out, one of the winding bars had broke free of the armature and jammed it to the side of the starter housing. I have another starter that came with the spare chassis that was complete with a full drivetrain. The chassis cost me $200 and a trip to upstate NY but it was well worth it for sure. I took apart the starter and found a like new armature and new brushes. I put the brushes and armature into my restored housing and put it back in the car. I’m back in business, and glad it let go now, not in Hershey!

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The machine shop got the preliminary mold finished today so we could make some test pads and I can have a new pad in place for Hershey. I have to finish up the mold by fastening a back plate to the bottom, milling the height of the pedal hole plugs down to .760, installing two guide pins, and installing 6 perimeter 1/4-20 clamping bolts. Once I’m done with all that tomorrow, I’ll box it up and send it overnight to Joe in CO so he can pour up a few samples and then send them back to me so I can install one in my car before I leave very early Thursday morning for Hershey! Phew, this car showing thing can really be hectic. I’m starting to feel like I’m staring in one of those Velocity channel car shows that always have some stupid deadline except I really do have a deadline!

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Finished up the mold  and sent it out to CO so joe can make some pours and send me one. The mold will get some more details added later when we have more time but for now what we have is good enough. Did everything I mentioned in my previous post and I also made up a hood prop assembly. The Olds hood is very big and very flimsy with a really lousy way to hold it open. It has a foot attached to the back edge of the inside of the hood and this foot is put on the cowl lacing when you want to hold it open. A slight gust of wind or a little bump and your hood will come crashing down doing a ton of damage to too many thing. I looked at a few commercial units already made but still thought a better mousetrap could be made. 

      Using some 1/2” aluminum channel, some 1/2-1/8” flat, 5/16 steel hex rod, and some aluminum blocks I made up a unit to work with my Olds. I milled some 7/16” slots in the blocks at 19d to match the diameter and angle of the radiator support rods. I made up blocks to go on the top of the support rod blocks with a 1/2” slot milled to capture the 1/2” aluminum channel and flat stock. I bent up hooks on the ends of the hex stock then drilled/tapped the ends for 6/32 stop screw. Then I milled two .140 x2” long slots in the bottom of the channel. The slots are for the 6/32 screws to travel in and control the movement of the two hexagon hooks. The hood prop is held across the two radiator brace rods and the hooks are pulled out slightly when the hood is lifted. The hooks get attached at the center of the hood rear where the hood latch mechanism is. The hood latch rod sits right in the hexagon hook and securely holds the hood. There is a long piece of flat spring steel stock inside the aluminum channel that I put some small bends in so it applies pressure on the hexagon hooks so they don’t rattle or slide out of the channel when pushed all the way in.

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Forgot to mention she is just about fully assembled finally. There are just two chrome fender spears to go on after the pinstripes which are being done Saturday morning at nine. It’s getting its final cleanup and detailing tomorrow by Gilly and his brother then they will be officially done and signed off on it.

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Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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Simply gorgeous.  

The quality and expertise of your restoration will set a new standard at Hershey.  

Truly a pleasure following your build.  Congratulations.  

 

Did you fabricate the hood prop?  I looks nice and sturdy.  I'd like to see your plan on that.

 

Not that you need it, but "GOOD LUCK" at Hershey!!!!  Stunning.

 

Gary

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2 hours ago, Gary W said:

Simply gorgeous.  

The quality and expertise of your restoration will set a new standard at Hershey.  

Truly a pleasure following your build.  Congratulations.  

 

Did you fabricate the hood prop?  I looks nice and sturdy.  I'd like to see your plan on that.

 

Not that you need it, but "GOOD LUCK" at Hershey!!!!  Stunning.

 

Gary

Thanks Gary but I’m sure my work is no better than many other cars being shown, it’s mainly that I’ve been documenting my restoration and people have been able to follow along with it. My friend Joe for instance who’s been working on his 32’ Olds sport coupe, has done at least the same level of work but no one has seen it because he does no threads on a forum. I have spoken with the editor of the NAOC magazine about doing a story of our two 32’ Olds, restored at the same time, by two guys who live 1800 miles apart, and who became good friends because of owning their respective cars. Much of what I learned on my Olds came from joe.  I am indented to him for teaching me so much and helping reach the level of restoration I was hoping for. I couldn’t have done it without his help and knowledge. To me, that’s what our old car fraternity is about, people helping people out. Examples like JP giving machining tips to MM or vice versa is what it’s about. If there’s something I know and can share my knowledge with someone, I enjoy doing just that like many others do here.

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Gary, I realized I didn’t answer about your question on the hood prop. Yes, it’s my own design and I fabbed it out of odds and ends of material I had in my shop. I tried for the lowest and cleanest profile I could come up with plus I wanted simple but sturdy. I didn’t draw up and plans just went with the thoughts in my head. Of course, working that way got me into the situation I’ve been in for the last twenty years wife my wife! 😂 Actually, I’m lucky as it’s worked out very well so I’ll keep going with what pops into my head as long as I think it out before I act! 

    The prop doesn’t hook under the bottom edge of the hood because if I went that way with the design, I would have had to put some sort of protection on the tip of the hook. Also, you can see the hooks protruding under the hood edge,  where as mine, you can’t, because it hooks on the hood latch rod mechanism on the inside back of the hood. The hook is small and deep so it should be very hard for the hood to ever be knocked free of it which is something we all think about when we have our hoods open. The Olds hood is huge, around 44-46” long I believe, plus it’s very flimsy in its early production years because it lacks a 1/2” angle bracing along the length of the hood doors later production year cars got. With the Olds, you cannot open both sides together either like you can do on other cars. Again, it’s such a big, fragile, and clumsy hood to open without hitting it on any other parts of the car, when it’s open, my main goal was to keep it positively secure. If you want a better idea of the design, I can make up some drawings and post them, just let me know.

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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12 hours ago, Gary W said:

Simply gorgeous.  

The quality and expertise of your restoration will set a new standard at Hershey.  

Truly a pleasure following your build.  Congratulations.  

 

Did you fabricate the hood prop?  I looks nice and sturdy.  I'd like to see your plan on that.

 

Not that you need it, but "GOOD LUCK" at Hershey!!!!  Stunning.

 

Gary

Ted, I agree with Gary W about the quality and detail that you painstakingly put into the '32. This will be my 48th. year attending Hershey, and I have seen some magnificently  restored cars over the years, and I believe that your Oldsmobile is up there with the best of them. Thanks. John

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Pinstripes were done yesterday. Really finished off the look of the car. Have the cowl vent door to repaint tomorrow because of a sanding/buffing problem. The pedal pad sample joe poured up from our mold should be here tomorrow from CO also so I can install that. 

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Here are a couple pictures of the molded pedal pad test sample. The back of the pad where the pedal stop flanges bump up against didn’t pour good on this sample but joe drilled 4 small holes around the perimeter of the recess to let the air out and the urethane to flow completely up into the recess. The two sample pads arriving tomorrow were made after the holes were drilled and came out correct.

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13 minutes ago, Laughing Coyote said:

Nice stripe work. Gives enough pop to break up the black and ties in nicely with the ww. 

I realize looking at the pictures that I didn’t get a pic of the striping on the lower body molding which runs from the front of the bottom inside edge of the ear fender all along the body and bottom edge of the hood up to the radiator shell. That stripe really shows off the nice curve of the lower body and how the front fender/running board top edge follows it. 

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57 minutes ago, Laughing Coyote said:

Nice stripe work. Gives enough pop to break up the black and ties in nicely with the ww. 

Like Martin said, nice stripe work..... it's amazing how the pinstriping really sets off the body lines.... beautiful !

 

 

 

Steve

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Well the last part went on the car today. The two sample pours arrived and joe had them marked good and better. The tops came out great with the good one having two 3/8” air bubbles in the pedal stop area and the better one having two tiny bubbles in the same area. I figured I’d try installing the good one first in case of a screw up. Using an exacto knife, I cut right along the ribe side for each respective opening using a straight edge. This went fairly easy and it cut extremely clean. I installed it in place and found the tops of the pedal shafts would rub on the top of each opening. The original had angled holes but we didn’t have time to attempt this detail so we installed slightly undersized straight wall plugs. I figured if it was needed, I would just do my best with an exacto knife and trim the opening. Turns out, the formula of urethane that joe is using is very sandable and used the sanding drum on the Drexel to put the opening in. This worked as good as one could want and it is not worth the cost or the effort to change the plugs in the mold. We still have the top edge V groove to machine yet but we have already put provisions in the mold design for it. With the tops of the holes sanded at an angle, our recreation of the pedal pad worked out great and looks original. I’m very happy with the results. The center hole around the steering post is covered with a rubber pad and in my case, the original that came with the car.

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