chistech

32' Oldsmobile Deluxe Convertible Roadster

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Got to do a little tonight on the tool holder. I made up the center section that the two cutters will be pinned into. Have to finish milling off of the larger piece I made it from. The center was milled to .250 (1/4”) which is a nice tight fit for the two cutters side by side. The outside of the holder was milled to .375 or the width of the raised ribs that will have the six fine grooves cut into them. I cut two slots with a hacksaw to accept the tangs on the cutters. The holder will get sandwiched between two longer pieces of stock that will guide the tool holder. Will try and get more done tomorrow.

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Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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Worked a little more on the cutting jig. I had a couple pieces of hard nylon from work that I milled to the thickness of the slots leaving the thickness of the nylon sides to the inside. This allowed me to mill a 1/2” slot in the middle for the cutter and holder and two slots on the ends that will secure the ends so the whole jig is straight and strong. I milled a slot on each side which will allow for height adjustment of the cutter holder. Hope to get more done tomorrow. The concept of this tool is to operate it much-like a file. With the cutter in the middle of the long sides, it should be able to produce good straight lines but only testing will prove it.

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Made my front floor board and toe board a good while back but never put any finish on them so I’ve been varnishing them . Looking pretty good now.

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Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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Are they going to dry with all that freezing cold weather or are they going to give you a fit like the wheels did and won't dry until spring? ;)

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These are drying with no issues. One day and they’re ready to be sanded down and they get another coat. These pictures show the bottoms of both with their third coat already. Doing them in my cellar, it’s about 55-58 down there, and you’re right about the temp/ time of the year being right about 1 yr ago when I did My wheels.

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3 hours ago, John S. said:

I can't believe it has been a year since you worked on the wheels!

Crazy how fast time car go on a restoration.

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Made up the aluminum end blocks for my grooving tool then drilled the cutter holder for the tiny retainer roll pins. Put the cutters in place then drove the roll pins in. Drilled the middle cutter holder for two through bolts to hold the cutters at a set depth of cut. Sprayed a little oil on the aluminum test plate and used the tool like a file keeping the sides of the tool firmly down in the slots as the cutters can be felt cutting. The tool pivots slightly on the cutters until they’ve cut to the set depth then the nylon sides of the cutter simply slide back and forth. The cutters are designed to cut in both directions and that is the way I operated the tool. You have to clean the cutters about every third or fourth pass but it’s the nature of the beast. Very happy with the results so far. Once I’ve cut all the grooves to the depth shown, I’ll lower the cutter holder some to deepen the grooves. I turned the tool around 180 and used it in the same way in the case of the two cutters being at slightly different heights. The tool works perfectly in both directions so it appears I got everything made perfectly centered. Once I’m happy with this test piece, I’ll send it to joe where he’ll dam off the sides and pour some rubber on top to check the results.B331650E-B774-437F-935D-D2073DF8038E.thumb.jpeg.f95e3b8dcb92d8708ba29811d9b75faa.jpeg

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Thank you gentlemen. I really appreciate your comment Joe as your machining skills amaze me. I’m learning some much each time I work with my mill or lathe. 

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That is just awesome!!  I'm not sure I would have had the patience to build such a good tool.  Now that I see the end result, I think I need to learn some more patience!!  That was *certainly* worth the effort.  Amazing.

 

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I sent the longer piece of the aluminum test piece to my buddy Joe to make a test casting. He dam edged the sides with blue painters tape and used an old batch of urethane rubber he had. He knew it was old and most likely wouldn’t cast very well but the test was more to see how the grooves would look. While the rubber didn’t flow in and finish off as good as a fresh batch normally does, the results are definitely satisfactory. The six grooves are plenty deep enough and show up very well in the sample. While it might not be perfect when the whole mold is finished, the parts cast will still be 1000 times better than not having anything even close to being correct in its place.

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Picked up some of the painted parts and took them to my moms garage where the chassis is. Put the front and rear aprons in place then put the running boards on their supports on the frame. They are wrapped in moving blankets for now. More parts will be coming soon and we are starting on the wet sanding of the body this weekend.

 

Took my manifold off, split the two halves, and repainted the exhaust manifold with Rustoleum barbecue grill black. I’ve been painting all my manifolds with this paint and they have been holding up better than all the name brand high heat manifold paints I’ve used. Buttoning up all the chassis stuff to get ready to start putting on the painted sheet metal.

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Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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15 hours ago, chistech said:

I sent the longer piece of the aluminum test piece to my buddy Joe to make a test casting. He dam edged the sides with blue painters tape and used an old batch of urethane rubber he had. He knew it was old and most likely wouldn’t cast very well but the test was more to see how the grooves would look. While the rubber didn’t flow in and finish off as good as a fresh batch normally does, the results are definitely satisfactory. The six grooves are plenty deep enough and show up very well in the sample. While it might not be perfect when the whole mold is finished, the parts cast will still be 1000 times better than not having anything even close to being correct in its place.

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Old or new material aside - Ask someone who casts or a product specialist from the material supplier  - there is a solution for the issue of the tiny bubbles - you may be pouring too quickly, pouring at wrong temperature, have to tap mold with a hammer, need to pour in two stages, or ...

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Kind of jealous. I was going to try to find a way to remake rubber for my cars, but you are on it! Those samples are looking great!

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Ted, the paint work looks great on the car. Coming along nicely. Thanks for the updates. John

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My Olds has two floor board tie down plates, one on each side that screw into the sill edge, and into the floor board edge. I only have one original and it is badly pitted. I had thought a while back of making new ones but the plate has formed  in finishing washers at each screw hole for oval head wood screws. Even though these plates are under the mat, I wasn’t happy with the idea of just making new plates without the finishing washer detail. 

     Today, I had a little spare time in the shop and I decided to see if I could make a set of dies to form the washer shape. I had some 1” diameter round SS stock, turned a positive and negative on my lathe, drilled both for a 3/16” pin (one drilled undersized for a press fit), then tested them out. I’m able to use my large HD vise rather than my hydraulic press and I’m quite happy with the results. I only had time to make one but I’ll either make another or make the battery side different. Again, as typical of 32’ Olds, there was a running mid year change in the floor tie plates. The drivers or battery side, instead of getting the same tie plate as shown, got a much bigger plate with the same oval hole cut out to service the battery that the wood floor board has, but if the battery needed changing, the larger plate could be removed. This make things much easier as the Olds parking brake lever is bolted to the floor board which means a lot of extra work is required to removed the first generation floor board for a battery change. Need to look at the bigger floor tie in plate and see about making one of those up. They were offered by Olds dealers as a retrofit so adding one to my car is not a detractor to authenticity.

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Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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Nice dies! I had something like this made to create the formed-in trim washers on the Airflow doorsill scuff plates we make. Since the material we use is aluminum, I can use my drill press to squeeze the dies together.  Love your attention to the hidden details :)

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Ted, it just gets better all the time. I am spending too much time on the forum, but it is all good with the Olds. Keep em coming. John

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Ted;

Very impressive and smart work!  

Your meticulous attention to every little detail is simply superb!

This will be a gorgeous automobile when done.

Love watching this Olds come together.

Well done!

Gary

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Thanks guys, you’re too much. This stuff is just fun for me. Each little thing is a challenge and I try and find away to “get er dun”. My mom has done crosswords all her life and at 89 in a few days, still does them. She says she likes the challenge and they keep her mind sharp. I guess all these things on my restoration are my own form of “crosswords”! I realize now it’s all my moms fault.😀

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Here are some pictures of the drivers side second generation floor tie in/battery access plate in another 32’ Olds. I will be making up two of these, one for myself and one for my buddy Joe. You can see this plate allows for complete removal of the battery without removing the floor board. A much nicer modification than the original design.

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