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32' Oldsmobile Deluxe Convertible Roadster


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Meant to post this from last week. My buddy with the machine shop who likes doing parts of my projects with me did some work on my shifter closeout mold. Using the angled cutter I bought, he cut the bevels on the perimeter of the mold after he had milled the inside of center section cutout with a standard 3/4” end mill. The inner radius of the angle cutter matched the outer radius of the 3/4” end mill so that worked perfectly. He then radiused each corner of the ribbed plate I had made up for just light press fit. In this picture the ribbed plate is .100 too high in the mold so the back will be milled off the .100. Then a .125 ball end mill will be run around the whole mold centered on the parting line of the ribbed panel and outer angled part of the mold. The 2 3/8” center hole will be bored in the ribbed plate along with the four .375 holes that will be for the pins to mold in the screw holes. I will be making the pins, the center plug with a .125 ball end groove, and the whole 1/2” thick back of the mold. While the angle is not exact to the original, it will be better than anything available and one would have to get right on the floor up close to even see the difference.

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The mold is coming along now. The four perimeter holes for the pins to mold the screw holes are in and the center hole has been bored. The center hole is encircled with a round edge but it’s 3/16 rather than the 1/8” around the square perimeter. We made two test samples to determine the height of the 3/16” bead. The shallower one is .050 and the deeper one is .070. We are going with the .050 as it duplicates the original bead better to our liking. Both the 1/8” and 3/16” beads will be set up and done on the CNC mill. 

 

I will I’ll be starting on the very basic bottom half of the mold which is so basic, even a caveman could mill it!

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Well, the caveman got it done today. The thing about a majority of machining is good old math and measuring. It was real easy to make the mold back half just working off of center with 3/16, 1/4, 7/16, and 1/2” end Mills. I used the undersized Mills to make the plunge holes and initial slots then cleaned everything up with the full size tooling needed. Going to clean up the mating face a little with just a red pad, will drill holes, and use alignment pins to mate this half to the other. Now I need to make the four screw plugs out of 3/8” aluminum round stock next. If the machine shop can get to the front half in the beginning of the week, there’s a good chance the mold will be finished by the end of the week so I can send it to joe for some testing.

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Went to the machine shop tonight and watched my buddy finish up his part of the mold. He milled the two beads and drilled the back half of the mold I made for the alignment pins. Now I just need to make up the four screw pins and the center whole plug. I am really amazed how close to the original piece this mold is looking.

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Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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Finished off the mold tonight and will be shipping it out to my buddy joe tomorrow. Made up the four screw pins, the center plug, and four 22ga plates that get molded in to help add rigidity to the plate. I need to bore more holes through the plates so the rubber will hold the steel better and not separate off the steel. The reinforcement plate will be put in right after a bed of rubber is poured into the mold. The taper of the screw pins will hold the metal plate right at the perfect height and then the mold back will be added, then the whole mold filled with rubber. Looking forward to seeing the test pieces and hopefully all this work was worth it.

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Installed the rubber running board onto the metal running board and installed the chrome strip along the edge. Started to fit the board to the drivers side and found the wood I replaced was just a little too thick and was hitting the top of the running board. I had to trim the wood with chisels to narrow the bottom edge enough to clear the board top. Cut and trimmed up a piece of welting and held it in place with double sided tape, then bolted the front of the board to the rear of the fender with six 1/4-20 bolts. I will have to pull the rubber board off later when I bolt the running board down to the two support irons. I’m waiting until I have the rear fenders in place before I drill the holes through the boards. Because my boards were restored with repopped bottoms, they have no mounting holes and I need to align everything up first before drilling holes.

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Today I went to my moms garage and picked up my two spare wheels/tires and the drivers side hubcaps. Today’s antique car tires, size for size, tend to run larger than their earlier predecessors. I was told that the Lester 5.50-6.00 x17 would fit into the fender wheel well without having to partially deflate them. Well today I had the car outside so tried putting them in the wells and sure enough, they fit, and they just fit to the point you couldn’t ask for a better fit. Not too tight where they take paint off and not loose where they move around. The tires really add a lot to the sides of the car. Just wish I could get the rest of the sheet metal finished and installed. Tomorrow I’ll fit the passenger side spare irons to the fender and cowl.

     Still waiting on other sheet metal as we’ve had some contamination problems causing too many fish eyes and we’ve repainted those pieces. Trying to find out what the cause is. I’m running a high end Sharpe desiccant oil separator/dryer system and we can’t find anything obvious as of right now but the problem is giving us way too much rework and putting me behind schedule.

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I had a friend with the same type of fish eye problem. They replaced hoses, compressor, everything they could think of , and they would come back. I know this sounds crazy, but it turned out to be the deodorant he was using, contained silicon.

 

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Many years ago we had the same problem in our bodyshop with the low bake spray booth. Eventually, the paint manufacturer recommended putting, I think it was silicone, into the paint. I have just searched the web to see if I could remember the name. It worked. After this, we cleaned the workshop, spray booth and changed the filters and had no more problems.

 

I found this site that mentions 'stuff' to put in the paint. The site is about wood, where apparently the same problem can occur.

 

https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/four-methods-to-prevent-fish-eye

 

 

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3 hours ago, wyankee said:

I had a friend with the same type of fish eye problem. They replaced hoses, compressor, everything they could think of , and they would come back. I know this sounds crazy, but it turned out to be the deodorant he was using, contained silicon.

 

 

Actually it's not crazy at all.

 

When Chrysler started making the "new" mini van here in Windsor , Ontario, Canada I was lucky enough to get the contract to clean the wire reinforced glass walls of the new automated spray paint booths on the body line.

I was given a list of acceptable cleaning agents (which I have forgotten now) and all went well.

However, once under production the paint finishes were experiencing fish eye effects.

Seems it was indeed the under arm spray deodorants and aftershave liquids mixing in the air causing the problems. 

 

I guess our Government banning of those aerosol sprays is doing us a favour once one thinks about it... 

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My Buddy joe call me yesterday and told me the good old US mail worked extra quick for some reason and he got the mold in one day! He sent me pictures of the first test. One small air bubble on the back of the lip which wouldn’t be seen anyway but all I can say is it totally blew me away when I saw it this morning. All the careful machining work payed off. We’re the only ones presently reproducing this part. Joe is going to try adding the metal stiffener when he gets back home from a trip. Pictures of the original and our freshly molded urethane one.

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Haven’t gotten the piece back yet to try fitting it. The final version will have a steel core in it both for strength and to keep shape. The quality is very good but it is a two part urethane so it’s not really dull like rubber would be. It has more shine which in turn seems to make it blacker than a molded rubber would look. But even if the color is slightly off compared to an original, no one has a brand new one like it so it’s already a 1000% better than a non original shape piece would be.

    The pedal-pad mold we’ll be making next will use the same tooling and be made from the same material so the two pieces will be of original design and matching color. With the brand new rubber mat and the two new floor pieces, I believe the finished floor will look like a brand new 32’ Olds did 87 years ago.

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Started hanging the parts (running boards and rear fenders) because I need to drill holes and make sure I’ve got paint removed in the right places so there is a good ground for the taillights. Mounted the passenger side board and rear fender. All the original holes lined up correctly without too much maneuvering and once I knew the rear fender was in the right place, I drilled the six 5/16” holes for the carriage bolts that hold the board to the frame supports. With the fender and board all tightened up solid, I mounted the rear tailight and adjusted the brake light switch so both the running light and brake light works correctly. The fender has been sanded and is ready to buff and everything will be coming back off and any small areas needing attention will be taken care of. Installed both side mount iron assemblies with their locks. Everything fits properly which is good! Got in the shifter closeout test piece that Joe made up and it looks even better in hand. Once he puts the metal in the next ones, I’m sure it will fit and work perfectly.

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I like the little Oldsmobile detail on the rear fender above the tail light. The brown interior goes nice with the wood wheel spokes, and the white strip of color on top of the doors goes great with the white wall tires and breaks up the black body. Classy looking car. 

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Ted, beautiful work as always.. Did the cars with side mounted tires have optional metal covers? I agree with Martin about the details on the Oldsmobile. They really made a standout car. You are really doing this car proud. Thanks,. John

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Thank you John and yes, they offered metal spare covers as seen in the picture of one of the other known wood wheeled roadster. I was offered a pair that needed repair and were missing a few parts that would have been needed to be hand made. When you figure in the cost, work to restore, the benefits of having them didn’t outweigh the good looks of the exposed wheel in my opinion so I opted to not purchase them. Same with the SS thin wheel trim rings. I finally collected all six of original Oldsmobile trim rings and after some thought, I decided not to install them. There are many Olds out there with trim rings, and often they are Ford ones which are much wider than the originals but there are virtually only three including mine with the correct perimeter pinstripe around the wheel. Most don’t even know the wheels had this stripe due to theyears taking a toll on the wheels original paint. My choice is to be unique but still OEM. On the roadster in the picture, it hasn’t been seen by too many in years and it’s actual condition is unknown to most. 

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Got a fair amount done today. With the rear fenders mounted, Bob, Gillie’s brother concentrated on fine sanding and buffing them, along with a second dose of the same on the body, fuel tank apron, and front fenders. Basically everything is getting a close going over. I got the interior panel, inside handles, and outside handle installed on the drivers door and then mounted the door. I fit both door garnish moldings to the doors to make sure they fit properly on the door panels. They need to be painted again and cleared so will come back off again but that’s how this game goes. 

     Installed the rumble lid and leveled it off. Installed the latch, handle thimble, and handle. I installed the piece of vinyl rubber corded windlace around the outside perimeter of the rumble seat back frame then installed it into the lid. The two 1/4-20 screws that fasten the bottom of the seat back frame are a real PITA to install. A screw holding screwdriver is absolutely necessary to get those screws in without a few choice words coming out! Put the seat cushion in and all fits well as it should. Adjusted the two lid corner number/lid stops. It’s coming together a little more everyday.

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Wow, good eyes, yes, all balsa and modeling plywood. We had a RC club member suddenly pass away and his wife donated all his modeling possessions to our club. Three of us took everything and we are going through it all and cataloging it all so we can offer it for sale during a future funfly/flea market day at our field. If you can believe it, there’s easily $500 in used dollar value of balsa. I personally already have about equal the amount with much of it being hand selected “contest” grade balsa. Contest balsa is the lightest, strongest, and straightest grained you can buy. It allows a builder to make an aircraft that is still heavily scaled out yet as light as possible.

     The Corsair is a kyosho ARF with fiberglass fuselage and foam wings. They fly very nicely and no real building is necessary, just about 15-20 hours of assembly and set-up.

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When I got the car over three years ago, it came with a old school jute backed floor mat. I have a new, fisher logo mat to go in but the Olds had about 1/2” of total padding and mat thickness so I installed the old mat with its jute padding as a sub mat to give me the total thickness I will need. Made up a cardboard pattern then used my T pin technique to mark and cut it out with an exacto knife.

     A problem I’ve been having is cracking the windshield glass. Thought I had figured out the problem and installed my THIRD one last night with the help of my brother. After putting the roof back up, we started to install the rear view mirror in the center of the windshield top frame. I glanced over at the lower drivers side of the windshield glass and sure enough, another small crack! WTH! Why? Looking close I realized that the glass is cracking because there’s just a tiny bit too much pressure at the bottom corner and it cracks the front layer of the laminated glass because the pressure is flexing the glass out as the windshield gets lifted up and the bottom of the glass comes in contact with the lower gasket before the frame is all the way back to the full upright position. Looking close, the last three inches of the lower gasket was up slightly in the channel of the frame. I trimmed the bottom of the rubber and now have the gasket set fully bottomed in the channel. Of course, this doesn’t help with the fact that now I need a fourth glass. I’ve spoken with other Cabriolet owners and they all tell me that their windshield glass barely touches the bottom gasket if at all and they don’t seal the rain out much. I believe the problem comes from the glass being laminated as I doubt it would crack with solid glass.

 

rolled the car outside and took a few pictures with the top down which made my convertible biased wife happy! 

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Well, been away from the forum a while. It seems I had a strange medical set back this past Tuesday. I ended up losing about half a day of memory! Good news is after extensive testing of all major things, they found I do have a brain and it is actually in very good shape. They have no explanation why it happened other than it’s often associated with stress if one doesn’t have other contributing conditions which I don’t have. They called it transient global amnesia which they said is a fancy word for what happened when they have eliminated all other possible causes. So no stroke, blood clots, heart attack, etc. I was told I’m in pretty good shape and better than most other than I need to lose 20 lbs and get my BP lower (even though it’s not considered high ). I explained the cause was probably my wife but the doctors didn’t believe it! LOL.

   So anyway, I’m taking it easy for a few days and at least the majority of Tuesday’s memory came back to me other than about 7-8 hours of it. My wife insists it’s me worrying about getting the Olds done for Hershey and the two other vehicles that I am trying to get done for others. Either way, it seems I need to relax more and let things roll off more. It will be hard to become more complacent but I guess I’ll have to try. Hope everyone else had a better Labor Day week than I did!😁

 

should add: I’m back to normal with a full memory (other than those hours mentioned) and feeling pretty good. A little tired and slight headache occasionally but they said it’s expected so I’ll be back working on the Olds and posting soon. I’ll try and post after I’ve consumed two Jameson’s and two millers so I’ll be nice and relaxed! 😂

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What a beautiful resto.  Congratulations, you must be very proud, satisfied, and maybe relieved that it's pretty much finished. 

 

Just read above you're trying for Hershey, can't wait to see it in person.  You'll probably have a line of us waiting to meet you. 

 

And if you need to lose 20 lbs., Hershey is the best way to do it, just walk the whole thing and you'll be down 20 lbs in no time.  Just lay off those pizzas at the bottom of the bridge stairs.

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17 hours ago, hursst said:

 

 

And if you need to lose 20 lbs., Hershey is the best way to do it, just walk the whole thing and you'll be down 20 lbs in no time.  Just lay off those pizzas at the bottom of the bridge stairs.

Actually the neurologist is the one who wants me to lose the weight and he’s the first doctor who told me 220 is a good weight for me as most tell me I should weigh 180-190. I’m a heavy framed guy at 6’-1” that normally weighs around 228-230 so the 220 is a good goal. Changing my diet and portions some plus some cycling should get me to where I want to be pretty easily. I haven’t weighed under 200 since 7th grade and even when playing HS football in virtually the best shape of my life I was still 209-212 so that 190 mark some doctors talk about was a joke! My wife and I will be getting to Hershey early Thursday morning so I can catch a decent day of the flea market and have a good half day on Friday to go over the Olds and clean/shine her up. I’m looking forward to putting faces to all the names here on the forum as I’ve made a ton of friends on this restoration. Hope everyone enjoys the Olds when they see it as most have followed its journey from the start three years ago. Have to say, and not because it’s mine, but the car has some really nice lines and has a look of a higher end car of the day. Anyone like myself that admires the cars of the 30’s I’m sure will like this car in person. A few notable and distinguishable things are the long hood, long oval radiator shell, and higher stance to the body at the rear wheel wells. There isn’t many cars with those features all in one package and I think it’s what gives this car a more elegant look than others in its original price range. (Guess I do sound a little biased don’t I ! 😆)

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Glad you are well Ted, and maybe you should call House, that fool will give you hell and such but may figure out what is wrong with you. lol

 

sounds like you need to forget goals and just focus on the here and now, and look at whats next. when people ask me when my car will be done, i say "it'll be done, when it's done" better late than never and alive to enjoy it !!

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Did some work over the last couple days. I purchased the expensive two part adhesive recommended by the running board mat company and glued down the mats to the sheet metal pad. I blasted the metal pad, primed, and painted them first. Mixed up in equal parts, then using a v-grooved trowel, spread the adhesive on the pad. Flipped the pad over and then weighted the pad down using Olympic barbell plates so the pressure would be even. The pad kept wanting to migrate out of position so out came my T-pins and I pinned around the edges to prevent the pad front moving. Once the glue dried, I trimmed off any raised area of adhesive and mounted the mats to the running boards.

      The luggage rack got finished painted so I mounted the four pieces of chrome that highlight the top of the rack at twelve, three, six, and nine o’clock. Mounted the small rubber bumpers on each side of the rack supports with rivets as per the originals and assembled the supports to the rack then bolted the rack to the rear apron to test fit it. All fits well. Have to remove it so they can finish buffing the apron then will remount it with black hardware. The rack is a two position one with flat and tilted settings.

      The bad news is the four panels of the hood have to be stripped and repainted! They will be painted in an actual paint shop and booth to see if we can get the issues to stop. Just another set back to get my nerve up even more!

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