Tom_

Headlight Doors

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Hey guys,

I replaced both headlights with the Xtravision versions of the stock lamps.  Ever since I've had problems with the doors not wanting to open. Sometimes just one opens, sometimes they both work, but more often than not, they open after pressing the on button and tapping the brakes.  Today the drivers side door has refused to open and the knob doesn't even move it. I've rebuilt these motors and have the reatta specialty parts bell cranks.  Could it be something like moisture in the connectors? Wattage difference in the Xtravisions vs originals?  It's pissing rain out so I can't fiddle with it so I'm left in my house to scratch my head until the weather clears. Ideas?

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Seem to recall reading on one of the Threads that some of the fancy new headlight bulbs use so little power the computer thinks it's out & there for does something annoying so you'll check the lights.

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Just now, 89RedSlate said:

That isn't electrical, that sounds mechanical. If the mechanism is bound, the amp draw will be enough to kill the power to the motor.

What I meant was, I spin the knob and it didn't go up.  Like the knob was spinning on the shaft.  Because when I replaced the little delrin bushings I could still spin the knob and raise the light while lifting the door.  The resistance was uneven then and the bellcrank moved.  This time the bellcrank didn't even move.  I'll mess with it some tomorrow to confirm that's repeatable.  

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Did you replace the arm/bellcrank when you replaced the delrin bushings?   If not, that is your problem

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14 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

Did you replace the arm/bellcrank when you replaced the delrin bushings?   If not, that is your problem

He did say he has them

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It has less than 6 month old bell cranks from Reatta Specialty Parts. 

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Also to clarify, the lamps are both turning on.  It's just the doors.  I'm going to get some contact cleaner on the connectors after work today and report back. I'm hoping that fixes it, if not I guess I'll try the standard wattage lamps as that's the only other thing that has changed. 

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The knob spins, but the doors don't. move. Something mechanical's wrong here; not electrical.

since both lamps were replaced, and both doors won't open, perhaps there's something mechanically wrong with the bulbs binding.

Edited by harry yarnell
add info (see edit history)

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Tom - "Like the knob was spinning on the shaft"  - the manual control knob is a splined fit on the armature shaft and, addressing this issue only, there is a slight chance that the knob has rounded out.  

 

If you think this might be part of the problem, at least in diagnosing the overall problem, I do have new knobs and will be glad to send you one with minimal hurt.  To do so must have your ship to address. 

 

Beyond this, would still appear that you have other issues.

 

Kingsley Baker

Reatta Specialty Parts - (855) REATTAS

 

 

 

 

 

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Agree with Kingsley here. I have had a few knobs round out or split off the broach on headlight motors now. However, it sounds like something is binding up as well, and to may have crushed the new delrin bushings if the motor couldn't spin freely for some reason. After all, that is the design intent in using the delrin rollers, so the worm gear doesn't get sacrificed in a motor bind up condition.

 

Pull the knob off and watch the shaft while the motor is running (or supposed to be) and see if the shaft is spinning. May help to make a small mark with a sharpie or some such to view this more easily. if it is spinning, then either the gear box or crank arm is at fault. Being new crank arms, I suspect the gearbox (and most likely the delrin rollers) will be at fault. If it isn't spinning, then either it isn't getting power or it is bound up somehow.

 

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Alright.  Contact cleaner on the connectors got the motors spinning.  The driver's side one is now displaying the same effects as when the bushings disintegrated the first time.  If I coax it just right I can get the headlight to lift up but it is definitely binding on something.  So, it has indeed crushed the bushings but the good news is the motor still works.  So, with that in mind, I should in theory just rebuild the motor again and be fine.  I'm thinking that the simple act of taking the assembly apart and putting it back together will fix  the binding issue but I'll 100% test the assembly in the car without the motor attached to be sure.  If this has happened to anyone else, I'm curious as to what yours hung up on.

 

In regards to tapping the brake pedal to make the lights pop up, I have no idea why they do this now.  I've had a lot of quirky, high mileage vehicles so I've just learned to deal with it.  I'm thinking it has something to do with the higher wattage headlamps and voltage drop when pushing the brake pedal but I'm a mechanical engineer not an electrical engineer and I have no problem admitting when I have no idea what I'm talking about....like right now:rolleyes:

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3 hours ago, 89RedSlate said:

 

????

I agree, ???. I believe it happens, have no explanation for the coinciding action and I have a degree in electrical engineering.

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1 minute ago, Digger914 said:

I agree, ???. I believe it happens, have no explanation for the coinciding action and I have a degree in electrical engineering.

I think the switch in the dash is bad.  I'm going to be replacing the pods soon as well but I'm just trying to get the pressing issues out of the way.  I'm driving from East TX to Panama City Beach this weekend and kind of need headlights 

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1 hour ago, 89RedSlate said:

 

If you look closely- their setup is very different; it appears it doesn't use the same "plastic rollers" that a Reatta does.

 

The new (same as OEM) doesn't have any pockets at all. It uses a "rubber bumper".

 

Their motor housings also appear to be plastic:wacko: unlike our die cast aluminum.

 

See these differences?

 

(photo of my own rebuild, powdered Delrin)BRONZE_HEADLIGHT_GEAR-01.jpgBRONZE_HEADLIGHT_GEAR-02.jpgREATTA_HEADLIGHT_GEAR-01.JPG

 

 

 

To find the gear set that should fit the Reatta you need to click on the click here for 87 to 92

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I have rebuilt well over 100 headlight motors and have only seen one plastic gear that was bad.   

Because of that,  I have a good supply of good used original plastic gears....... available for $15 each including shipping, I will even include 3 new plastic rollers with the used gear.

The original Bellcrank/arm is the external part that usually fails........there are 3 people selling steel replacement Bellcranks....they are all far superior to the original part.

The one I have been making/selling for at least 10 years I guarantee for as long as you own the car, and the price for the steel Bellcrank is the lowest priced  at $40 including shipping and instructions.

If you want my KIT which includes Bellcrank, 3 rollers, UPSTOP nut, instructions and shipping the total price is $45

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